Dan@Adams

It probably just has to be whether they have any in stock to throw in with an order, kinda like the Made in USA mints, but I'm sure an employee can answer this better than me. About a year and a half ago, they did have decals for purchase on the site for a few bucks. I remember Nick hooking me up with a few to slap on my vehicle for one of the charity road rally events that I participate in

I would order an apron as well. I didn't snag one up the first time they were offered a few years back.

This is outstanding news Welcome back!

Since it was already sorta mentioned earlier in this thread, Dylan was unexpectedly let go at SCG back in October after he helped get the whole new product line up and running for them.

It's BRZN Dave! Haha just kidding...or am I? Edit: ...and by "BRZN Dave" I meant Chris05GTO...yeah, it's definitely gotta maybe end up being Chris perhaps? Edit2: ...and by "Chris05GTO" I meant Rich??? Am I confusing anyone yet? * I really have no clue who it is! *

Ouch sorry man. Hopefully the anticipation will make the products even more rewarding

I looked at those at Lowes.com too, but now I'm more interested in the Cree T8 LED direct replacement bulbs. More lumens per watt than those, and Cree is a name brand I trust. 2100 lumens and 21 watts per bulb, and you can find them for around $26 each if you look around online. I plan on ordering some very soon and picking up a few dual bulb housing from the local hardware store.

You can also enter on the webpage to win the Flex, check the Cyber Monday thread for the link to enter. I would post it here but my phone isn't cooperating with copying the hyperlink.

*cough* looks like there's going to be a great giveaway for Cyber Monday Phil...make sure you enter! *cough*

This is way too cool Chris. James Hetfield is one of my heroes!

Ha, that does look like it would be fun watching them fight until the last ram was standing. First thing I did today after waking up and having some breakfast was to go outside and fix some loosened pieces of siding on my detached garage courtesy of some crazy winds a few nights ago. Then I decided to start doing a full paint correction to my ls1 Sonoma since all of the rally sponsor decals are now off of it again for the winter. So far I've finished the hood and the passenger side half of the bed lid. Sorry for the dark pictures, I'm getting better lighting in the garage very soon!

Cool, no problem. Now you just get to play the waiting game

Sorry I didn't get back to this more quickly J.R. but here's a few shots showing that the newer Adam's Wheel Woolie does in fact fit in the Large Detailing Bag, but it has to be angled from opposite corner to opposite corner to not pull the bag out of shape or put unnecessary pressure on the cleaning head. Bent arm facing up: Bent arm facing down:

Actually, now that you mention it I used TID on a set of WeatherTech mats on a customer's BMW 3 series coupe and they turned out great - not much shine as TID isn't designed for that, but it did get them looking brand new again. I'll see if I took a picture or two. Edit: It was his wife's Acura that had the WeatherTech mats. His MSport coupe had normal rubber floor mats, but I used TID on those as well. I don't have a good shot of the Acura, but here's one of the cleaned driver floor mat in the beautiful 3 Series.

Well, it will make them pretty slick for a while, but I treat some floor mats with a diluted VRT mix of water and VRT. I haven't tried it on my new WeatherTech mats for the GS, but I will let you know when I do. I also treat pedals on my cars this way, but I always knock down the product with an Edgeless Utility Towel to make them less slick. You can do this with the floor mats too. Disclaimer: I don't do this to any customer vehicles though, because I don't want them to have any accidents because of me!

I agree that it hopefully only needs white foam pads and Paint Finishing Polish, but that all depends how and where it was washed. I've seen new cars swirled pretty badly at some car dealerships just from improper washing before they are sold to a customer, but I would expect a BMW dealership to spend a little extra time and care on their vehicles

Looks fantastic as usual Dave! Thanks for the share and great write-up

For badly swirled and scratched surfaces, I've found that the new Paint Correcting Polish (orange) has more correcting power than the old orange Swirl & Haze Remover, and like Chris says, it leaves a better finish as well. With the old S&H Remover, it would leave very fine, very small micro abrasions in the clear coat that the old white Fine Machine Polish would then remove and leave the surface as flawless as possible. The new orange Paint Correcting Polish doesn't seem to leave those very fine marks as much if at all anymore on some clear coats, so on some cars there may not be a need to go to the second step with the white pad and new white Paint Finishing Polish, and it's therefore a one-step machine polish; however, I usually end up going over it with Paint Finishing Polish as a second step anyway to get that extra bit of clarity in the paint If the finish isn't too bad to start with, there may not be a need to start with the more aggressive orange pad and orange Paint Correct Polish (always start with the least aggressive pads and polish on a test area and go from there), and once you have a car corrected once, you may only need to go back over it with the white pad and white Paint Finishing Polish on additional details down the road. One of my vehicles is a show car that barely ever sees rain or tree sap and is always washed properly, so I only ever have to use Paint Finishing Polish on it to get it back perfect for the start of the show season.

I don't tape off much at all except vinyl stripes or pinstripes to avoid polish buildup in those areas and rubber moldings and wiper cowls as the rubber can discolor the pads like Michael mentioned; however I do the same trick as him and apply SVRT to rubber moldings and any black or gray plastics like bumper inserts, valances, side mirror arms, etc to save time on taping things off. With the plastics treated with SVRT, if you acidentally go over them with the polisher, the residue will wipe off without staining the plastic. Taping off emblems is a great idea to prevent damage to the pads (I'm thinking of the sharp arrowheads on my GTO), but I just make sure to keep the polisher away from them, again to save time. I've had no problems polishing over the BMW roundel emblems though. Hope that helps

Welcome to the madhouse What color z06 did you order? Have you ordered any Adam's Polishes products yet or do you need any recommendations? The BG and Americana combo would work outstanding on whatever color you did get! Oh, and are you picking it up in Bowling Green or having it shipped to a dealer? You may want to clay bar it and take some Revive Hand Polish or Paint Finishing Polish with a machine polisher to the car when it arrives to get the finish absolutely perfect; then maybe wait a few weeks for the clearcoat to cure before applying any sealants or waxes like Liquid Paint Sealant, Buttery Wax, or Americana. (I'm not sure how long the Corvettes sit at the assembly plant before a customer gets them and if the clearcoat has had time to fully cure. Rich or another owner should be able to chime in there).

This is my opinion, some may agree and some may disagree. I used a Porter Cable 7424 the first two years I started paint correction and machine polishing, with the back-then products of Adam's Severe Swirl Remover, Swirl & Haze Remover, and Fine Machine Polish. The products worked as advertised, but the PC literally left my fingers tingling and numb and forearms hurting from the vibrations. If I worked for 10-20 minutes or so and took a break, it wasn't as bad, but that sucker sure does vibrate a lot...at least mine did...maybe I had a bad counterweight, but I know others have mentioned the vibrations too. I loved seeing my vehicles perfect and making other people's vehicles look great too, but the fatigue of the machine actually made me not look forward to doing larger vehicles for people. Then I purchased the Flex at a Grabiak Chevrolet Detail Clinic a few years back when Adam's began to offer it. I immediately noticed how much more manageable the machine was, less vibration, and it had better correction capabilities, allowing me to work faster and easier. My fingers were no longer tingling and my forearms didn't feel like they were playing tug-of-war with a brick wall for several hours. Yes, the Flex can 'walk' on a panel more than say the PC, but it is still completely controllable once you practice a bit. The pressure sensitive trigger and the way the internals gradually bring the polisher up to full speed also helps in having better control when you flip it on and prevents from slinging product where you don't want it - like your clothes, windshield, floor, etc. I love the trigger lock too. The Flex gave better results overall than the PC, no question. Finally, this past summer I purchased the Cyclo after trying it out at the Carlisle Truck Nationals. To me it's simply AWESOME. It's perfectly balanced with the two rotating heads, so there's literally almost zero vibration. Yes it's a little oddly shaped, but polishing with it feels natural almost instantly. While it may not have as much correcting power as the Flex on the first pass on a panel, it still works fantastic. I have brought 1500 and 2000 grit wet-sanded areas back to a perfect finish with the Cyclo, orange pads, and Paint Correcting Polish. It can get into tight areas that the Flex simply cannot fit into like A/B/C pillars, and it vibrates plastic bumpers far less than the other options. It might even have a slightly less noisy operating volume (I'll have to borrow a dB meter from work to be sure). For me, polishing on a vehicle is great therapy. I love seeing the reactions and faces of a customer when they come to pick it up and say it looks like I repainted their car or that they haven't seen that much color in the paint since they bought it new. A more affordable polisher can eventually give you near the same results as a more higher-end polisher, but at what cost to your body and sanity Edit: Check out the videos section up above for lots of great videos where Adam explains machine polishing in great detail. This one here is great at explaining the differences between the different types of polishers. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jM55kroCAAs&feature=player_embedded&list=UUzpvSWz3VFZpeFeitVsybWg

Glad I could do my small little part in helping out. I'm just glad I saw this thread about 2 hours before the raffle and had time to get a few tickets

When I get home later tonight I'll see if the Wheel Woolie fits, and I'll snap a few pictures. I have the newer Wheel Woolie currently being offered with the red grip handle.

Whoa! I've witnessed two sunroofs do this a few years back in very cold weather but never a rear window. Gald no one was hurt!

As Jason said, you don't need to apply any pressure when laying down Liquid Paint Sealant, BG, or Buttery Wax with the Cyclo, Flex, or any other machine polisher because you are only adding protetion to the finish, not correcting it with a polish and a polishing pad The weight of the machine and a slow speed setting are keys to spreading the product thin and even so that you aren't wasting product...plus it will be easier to wipe off the residue. I also agree that it's tricky to get LPS out of the gray foam pads. The next time I clean mine I might try soaking them in a diluted APC mix for few minutes to help break down the product.