goheels

While I haven't used the new shampoo, my understanding is that you need to shake up the solution a bit more as it doesn't mix as well as the red stuff. Ignore tip if you are already doing this. I think I'm going to miss the sweet cherry smell when I run out of my gallon

wow. Impressive that you were able to get a scratch that catches your fingernail out with polish/microfiber pads.

Not here, this is a family site. ... and no, don't do this as the APC would destroy your clay bar.

"It is shiny, and smells like.... Oil." My favorite part

I've never been able to get the smell completely out. Once that stuff gets into the fabric etc. it is nearly impossible to remove.

Yikes, well the return didn't last long . Big loss for Adams, but nice to see the support/well wishes from the boss. Dylan will be missed.

Soap soap

I had that on my wish list for two years Now that I have it, I'm pissed that I didn't buy one earlier.

I really like the 9x9s but haven't tried the larger size yet. (11x11 seemed unwieldy in the videos). Smart idea to go one size to keep the cost down.

Shade is your friend. I like doing washes in the morning on days I work from home (awesome perk of the job). Cooler temps and limited sun = no water spots when I pull it in the garage.

I went from 2 GWDT to 0, and it was amazing. (The Master Blaster is awesome ). But, you are right that they are excellent towels.

Not the place for it brigittebo

I think the best piece of advice I have received here and at other detailing forums is to always do the most least aggressive step first on a small (e.g., 2X2 ft) test area. If the car has only gone through an auto wash and he hasn't marred the paint by using poor technique in drying the car (because there is likely still a film of embedded dirt on the car after the auto wash, see Junkman videos), the paint might not be in as poor condition as you may think. I know with my daily drivers I am able to take out the smaller imperfections with just finishing polish. Why burn through more clear coat than is absolutely necessary to achieve the desired result?

Good advice. Although I received comments above like "What is so special about your engine bay that would harm it?" and "slapping sense in users" (which I'm assuming is sarcastic) above, I went to check the forums for my specific vehicle. While most of the engine bay is weather sealed, they absolutely recommend to cover all water-sensitive areas such as the short ram intake filter, alternator and battery.

I hear you, but my issue isn't necessarily with the drying portion (I have the MB which would make it short work). I just am really hesitant on taking a hose to the engine bay (even with light pressure). However, if it is usually filled with water anyway after it rains, I would feel much better about it.

VRT is a water-based dressing, and I don't have an issue with dust attraction. Thanks for putting this together Dylan. I'm still very nervous about cleaning the engine bay, but the video has alleviated my fears somewhat. While my engine is still stock I always worry about spraying water under the hood. However, I will definitely check immediately under the hood after the next rain storm to verify what you say is true about the amount of water that accumulates (not that I don't believe you, but I'm curious).

I try to be efficient, with the least pad swapping as possible to save on wear and tear of the Velcro backing.

Certainly one of my biggest complaints about the PC is the vibration at high speeds (5+). I'm hoping that by moving down to smaller polishing pads from the 7", it will reduce this problem somewhat. The bigfoot line seems like a solid upgrade. If I wasn't just doing maintenance polishing and sealant application on my 2 vehicles it would get heavy consideration! I couldn't imagine using the PC as a primary tool if I was doing detailing for a living.

It draws 18 amps of power so you might find it will trip the circuit with both motors running. I have dedicated 20 amp circuits in garage and it runs like a champ. It certainly is an expensive item, particularly with the "revolution" model. Would I mortgage the house for one? No. However, if you are able to swing it, it is an absolutely fantastic item to have in your detailing arsenal.

If it can't be combined with other offers, then I assume this negates the 10% discount? If true, unless you are ordering a very low cost item, it is hard for me to get excited about this one IMHO.

Master blaster is simply awesome, and like the others have said, I wish I bought one sooner. I save quite a bit of money not buying more drying towels and having to do extra loads of laundry.

I would add the undercarriage spray to the list. The staining that results from that product keep me from ever reusing it. While I know there are a number of steps that need to be done in precaution (paper towels on floor, using block sponges to get excess, ect.) it just isn't worth the risk on my brand new floors. The smell is the only pleasant thing about the product IMHO.

That was my concern as well, so I would be curious to know everyone's experience with the Sun Joe. That is pretty incredible pressure from an electric unit (2030 psi)!

I use the MB to 100% dry the car with no detail spray and it takes me about 10-15 min for the coupe and roughly 15-20 min for my wife's SUV. My philosophy is the least amount of towels that touch my car, the better. The only time I would get spotting in the past was when I would wash my car on a hot/sunny day and leave it out for extended periods of time in the driveway. Now, I do pool rinsing and drive it immediately into the garage after the wash for the drying (I regularly clean my garage so I don't have dirt/dust kicking up like the above poster). I have zero issues with water spotting.

Oops. Sorry for triple post.. Bad connection