Chuckkilo3

That is because they didn't do it right.  Find a body shop that knows what they are doing and you won't have any problems.

You will have to have the whole hood repainted and cleared.  My guess would be under $1000.  Paint labor is relatively cheap.  It is body work that is expensive.  Had my roof repainted under manufacturer warranty and I want to say it was $1700.  But there were things that had to be removed and masked along with blending.  A hood is straight forward.  

A few tricks to using SVRT on a tonneau... You have to clean it extremely well before applying it that way it all soaks in. Apply the SVRT, wait a little while and then wipe it down very thoroughly with a utility towel or two. This will soak up excess.
 
If you fail to do this, it greatly increases the chance that the SVRT will run down the sides of the bed when it rains. Has happened to me on more than one occasion and its a pain to get off.

Bummer...but at least you were able to fix it!
 
Maybe get a quick connect for you hose that has a plastic end so it is less likely to scratch than the metal hose threads.
 
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Melnor-1-97-in-Metal-Quick-Connection-Set-45C/100257129
 
They also have all plastic ones, but they are not as durable.

Well long story short, I got a foam gun over the weekend and really wanted to try it out but, the dwindling day light and the need to do other things tonight put me in a 'hurry up and get it done' mode while washing the truck...... Result was a nice scratch on the bedside when I was doing a sheet rinse(drug the hose across the bedside ).... Which resulted in getting out the Polisher   and fixing said scratch, which was more transfer than scratch thankfully, so I wound up spending more time than if I had just worked at a comfortable pace and done it right to begin with ..... I'm sure I'm not the only one to learn this lesson the hard way but, maybe I'll save someone else some trouble!!!  

This.  If your car is pretty well hammered you can make another wipe with a fresh soaked towel on the same panel, before drying.  I've had to do 2 passes over a panel if the car is well soiled.  As well, before finishing the panel, be sure to stick the edge of the towel inside the body crevices/cracks, thats where most of the dirt you may miss will hide.
 
If you're worried about stray particles, after finishing the section with your soaked towel, give a few spritzes of diluted Rinseless at QD ratio (1:16) and use it as a drying/lubrication aid when you dry your panel.

I do it very often.  However - I rarely have dirt on my drying towel.  If I do I toss it in the hamper and clean the area again with Rinseless.  It's completely clean before I use Detail Spray.

I had a bottle crack too!
SADLY, I blamed my son for this cracked bottle and to this day he swears he was never near my detail cart...... When he gets home tonight I will have to tell him the problem with these bottles and now I feel like a A$$ for blaming him on cracking my bottle of APC.

Thank you everyone.  She was really happy with the way it shined.  

My mom hasn't purchased a new car in over 15 years.  She made the 7 hour drive up this weekend for our daughter's second birthday and I decided to clean it up before the ride home.  The car was actually in good since the dealer doesn't wash the vehicle when serviced.  
 

 

 

 

 
I started off by cleaning the wheels and tires with Deep Wheel Cleaner, All Purpose Cleaner and the Trim & Lug Nut Brush.  I also used the old wheel woolie combo.  The wheels don't get that dirty since they are equipped with a brake dust barrier, but the tires were filthy.  
 

 
Here is the tire getting worked over with the cleaner.

 
The engine bay was exceptionally dirty as it hasn't been cleaned in over six months.  I sprayed everything with Rinseless Car Wash diluted to waterless wash and used some old microfiber to give it a good scrubbing.  After drying the bay I coated everything I could with Super VRT Tire & Trim Dressing and a milk version since I don't have any In and Out Spray,
 
Before:

After:

 
The bugs were sprayed with diluted Rinseless Car Wash to soften them before the wash.
 
I used a mixture of Car Wash Shampoo, All Purpose Cleaner, and Rinseless Car Wash in my foam gun to strip anything that might be left from the original delivery and to soften the water.

 
After letting it soak for a while and finishing up getting my bucket with Grit Guard Insert and Professional Car Wash Pad.  I gave the car a good scrubbing from top to bottom.  I was able to get the majority of bugs with a light pad pass, but had to break out the Detailing Clay Combo to get the ones that were baked on from sitting in the Texas and Missouri sun.  I clayed the hood, front bumper, windshield and roof.  The rest of the car was still good to go.


As you can see from the clay of the hood wasn't in horrible shape.

After finishing up with the wash and claying I broke out the Blaster Sidekick Dryer by MetroVac and Detail Spray to help avoid water spots and to give it a great finish.
 
After getting the drying process finished up I then went over the car with Quick Sealant using the Microfiber Applicator Pads to spread everything around evenly.  
 
Cleaned up all of the windows with Microfiber Glass Cleaning Towels and Adam's Glass Cleaner so that she would have streak free and invisible glass on the car ride home tomorrow.  I treated the windows with Glass Sealant.  
 
I went over the tires with the New Tire Shine which I have started to really like.  I was always a big fan of Super VRT Tire & Trim Dressing, but I may be switching over.  The trim on the car was treated with VRT also to help protect and give it that excellent natural sheen.


 
I hope you like how the car turned out and I plan on giving it a proper correction when I have more time and make a trip home to Dallas with all of my supplies.
 
 
   

This is what a Foam Gun from a hose will give you:

 
This is what a Foam Cannon from a Pressure Washer will get you:

 
 
I guess you need to see which is closer to your expectations when it comes to Foam.  The Pressure Washer is a great way to go if the car or truck is absolutely filthy.  The mixture in the Foam Cannon from this shot is 50% Car Shampoo, 50% Waterless Wash.  
 
In the Foam Gun on the hose, I use 32oz. of Water with 4oz. of Car Shampoo.  The big differences between the two are such that the Cannon's Foam will stick a LOT better than the Gun's Foam.  The Gun's Foam certainly doesn't cling like the Cannon, but it does provide a nice layer of lubrication between the Wash media and the surface of the car or truck.

If you are looking for the 'snow' foam type experience, then yes you need a pressure washer gun.  The hose-end gun does a decent job at producing foam, but it does not cling very long.

Friends, the last three weeks, even six months, we have had absolutely awful turnaround times.  Our shipping has never been so slow, and I'd like to explain why.
 
Back in October of 2013, we decided to use a 3rd Party Logistics company (3PL) in Aurora, Colorado to fill our orders.  Reason:  We are not good at getting hundreds of orders out during promotions, new product releases, etc.  They have hundreds of employees, and could move people to our shipping lanes when business was crazy.  Then, when it was calm, like mid-winter, we would not have to be paying people to sweep the floors, every 20 minutes, for months.
 
I very wrongly believed that freeing up our team to develop products, focus on videos, sales, and marketing would grow our business.  Hindsight is 20-20, but boy, this was a miss by a million miles!
 
We also believed that having multiple shipping centers across the USA would help us.  Well it would have, but that's later in the story.
 
Well, I couldn't have dreamed that this decision would have been so completely terrible.  First, back in October, as we made the switch, we gave up something incredibly important:  EXCELLENT LAST MINUTE Customer Service.  You wanted to add-on to, or change you order before it shipped, but the big company, 1M square feet, couldn't be that quick.
 
It went downhill from there, quick.  The shipping errors, and then we realized a very dangerous trend:  The 3PL actually profited from us not having everything in stock.
 
Here is an example:  4 pallets of In & Out Spray are delivered to a dock, near our shipping lanes. The 3PL only 'intakes' pallets or shipments in the late afternoon.   We have 40 orders that come in that day, and 13 orders in the system that have In & Out Spray as a back-order.  Does the company make an exception, intake the pallets of In & Out, and fill the orders?
 
No.  They actually prefer to ship all orders incomplete.  Then, brought in the In & Out Spray 100 feet, to our zone, opened it, stocked the shelves, and shipped all the new and old back-ordered In & Out Spray the following day.  Why?  They get paid per order, per product touch, and per box shipped.  Make sense?  No, it makes $dollars$ for the 3PL!
 
It happened daily, and we even had one of our own on the ground there, Flaco, who wanted to poke his eyeballs out on a daily basis!  Poor dude nearly lost faith, but we pulled out, finally, 6 months later, finished the "Buh Bye" to the 3PL last week. 
 
Talk about a lesson in business?  Why didn't I read the Zappos book earlier, and let the part where the 3PL nearly put them out of business?  Hindsight is 20-20.....

8 oz of rinseless in 128oz of distilled water.

If you think it's "too much" for WW, then it probably is.
 
Always best to err on the side of caution, or you can be making more work for yourself in the form of swirls/scratches.
 
That is...unless you want a lot of practice with a machine polisher.  If that's the case, then I'd just wipe that down with a dry paper towel and go from there.  

I prefer the blue waffle weave towels on my monitor and navigation screen along with Adam's good smelling glass cleaner.

I will still buy gallons as I can't get over the awesome smell, and sometimes you like a little extra gloss with your QD as opposed to the straight clean/shine properties of Waterless.

TBH I start to see less and less of a use for Detail Spray in my regimen.  Rinseless diluted to waterless ratio is great to spritz down grimy areas before a mitt touches it when doing your normal 2 bucket wash.
 
I use Waterless as a cleaner when drying the car for cleaning up the door jambs, I find just spritzing the jambs with Waterless (Rinseless diluted 1:16) and wiping dry helps lift the contaminants off and leaves a slick, cleaned surface.
 
I have also tested Waterless as a spritzing drying agent like Detail Spray is recommended, and to be honest I thought it worked just as good, definitely dried just as well as when I use my (current, on last bottle) V1 Detail Spray as drying agent, no streaks, and I like the lubricity factor in case there is a stray particle on the surface it will get absorbed into the Waterless, then sucked up into my drying towel. 
 
I definitely have used Waterless (which is now Rinseless 1:16 dilution with water) as a clay lube before, actually got the idea from an Adam's seminar from THE MAN himself, back at Detailers Domain in NJ 2 years ago.
 
I also use a 1/2 oz. or so of Rinseless in my wash bucket just to keep the water nice and slick and to aid when washing.
 
I'm sure I'll still buy my refill gallons of Detail Spray, but to be honest the Rinseless/Waterless product really makes 3 or 4 product uses in just one bottle, pretty amazing.

Glad I picked up some of the Silvers...  Just shipped some to a friend of mine that has 0 good Microfiber Towels so at least he will have 4 now that should not harm his black paint...

They were good towels, but overall not terribly popular at the price we could afford to offer them. The borderless blue on the other hand has been HUGELY popular. So the silvers won't be coming back, the blues will be sticking around.

Water probably rolled off. As long as it didn't look like THIS then you have nothing to worry about. Go test it, put some water in a cup and go pour it on the hood. See what it does.

Lot of factors at work, but what you're calling an 'issue' is really ideal... water beads are proof of protection (something actively on the surface creating surface tension for the water) but the ideal scenario is to get the water off of the surface before it has a chance to dry. 
 
Beaded water rolls off easily so its good, but if the surface tension is thus that it causes the water to not only bead, but roll off on its own then you're getting the absolute best result you could hope for. 

I wash and wax a lot, but have only recently started to learn paint correction. However, I've been following detailing forums and reading write-ups for years, so I'd like to think that I wasn't starting from scratch, at least conceptually!  
After doing my girlfriend's white car, I did a neighbor's oxidized clear on his truck bed cover. He was about to pay a few bills to get it repainted, so I asked for half that if I could produce results! He did not think it was possible at all, and I only attempted it because I've seen more done with worse.




 
After that, I started the full process on my car. Not many process pics here, just a few afters. I've only done the compounding, finishing, and sealing... have not applied any glaze or wax yet.

Perfect write up Dylan. And with no means of jacking your thread, I did the same with my truck with our snow this weekend with your same method.
 
 
BEFORE (Saturday)
 

 
AFTER (Sunday)
 

As you probably know, we've had a bit of 'weather' here in Colorado followed by few days above freezing so the snow and slush stuck around for longer than usual. The end result - my truck was a mess!
 
What better time to do a breif 'how do I use rinseless?' writeup from my own personal process. Bare with me... it was around 36* when I started and I didn't photo-document everything.
 
Whats needed for the "Dylan Method" of Rinseless Washing? Heres your list:
 
Adam's Rinseless Wash Concentrate (2) buckets with grit guards, full of warm water A diluted spray bottle (1oz Rinseless to 16oz of clean water) (4) or more plush towels to be used for Rinseless Washing (2) or more plush towels to be used for moisture removal (4) Waterless Wash towels for door jambs, etc.  
So lets start with the befores - my truck hadn't seen a hose off or any love for over 3 weeks. Add to that the fact that I get the urge to do snow donuts in any open field when the opportunities present themselves. Afterall... if its going to be dirty it might as well be REALLY dirty, right?
 

 

 
So how dirty is too dirty for Rinseless Wash? There really is no right or wrong answer... you have to use common sense, and in that vein its never a good idea to try to find a products limits. Given the amount of salt crystals, sand, and grit suspended in the grit I made a quick run to my local pay and spray. For $4.50 I was able to use their pressure washer to blast off all the gunk, including the undercarriage of my truck, then drive home to deal with what remained.
 
Even without acces to a pay and spray I advise you hose off or rinse the exterior to knock loose the larger particles. While rinseless might be able to take on this level of grit, its not the best idea. For sub freezing days a pressurize garden sprayer with warm water is better than nothting to start to break up the gunk before its pulled indoors for cleaning.
 
My personal method is a hybrid of a few of the popular methods used with products of this type. I use multiple towels, as well as a rinse bucket to complete the job and (IMO) strike a nice balance between safety and need for supplies. Some methods advocate using dozens of towels, but no one wants to do that much microfiber laundry. On the same hand you don't want to risk damage to your paint just to spare a few towels. The multi towel + rinse bucket method serves me well.
 
I prepped my 2 buckets of warm water from inside the house and went heavy on the RW in the bucket. Given that my truck is pretty large I'm already working with a near full bucket of water, so 2oz would be the minimum dilution at that volume. I went 3oz+ to give me some more slippery juice to work with.
 
I also went with 4 blue borderless in the bucket so I could break the truck into quadrants, you can feel free to divide further or less, but I find for very dirty vehicles (4) towels is the minimum at which I'd recommend working. As few as 2 towels (split the vehicle in half)  if the vehicle is only lightly contaminated like the Porsche 911 in the product video.
 

 
Each "quadrant" of the truck is cleaned top to bottom, the towel being rinsed frequently to remove debris, and followed by a separate dry towel to remove the moisture. Wheels are saved for the very end. After each panel and rinsing the towel is inspected to make sure its clean enough to continue being used. Any towel that becomes too contaminated is replaced with a fresh towel.
 
After cleaning the first half of the truck (quadrant 1 and 2) those towels are discarded, the rinse bucket is emptied and rinsed, and replaced with fresh water to complete the 2nd half of the truck. Again here, empty and replace rinse water more frequently for dirtier jobs or if it seems necessary.
 
Once the exterior of the truck is clean (minus wheels) I then move to the door jambs, fuel door, etc. These areas will hold a lot of grit. On some cars you may even find it hiding around headlamps, tail lights, mirrors, etc. Using the diluted 'waterless' version of rinseless wash I spray all these areas liberally, even using the stream setting on the sprayer to flush out contamination that might be hiding in the mirrors or tail lights. With a series of waterless wash towels I clean these areas separately using a simply spray and wipe process.
 
Lastly the wheels are addressed with the spray on version, but a saturated towel from the Rinseless bucket may also be used if you have delicate wheels or heavy debris to deal with. Luckily for me I'm not terribly in love with the wheeels on my truck so I don't spend too much time on them.
 
SO WHAT ABOUT THE TIRES?
To clean rubber thoroughly it often takes a brush and more aggressive cleaners, but you can clean them to some degree with the remaining rinseless product. Use a shop rag, or towel you don't care much for and soak it in the remaining rinseless liquid. Wad it up and scrub the tires as best you can. Follow up with your Super VRT or preferred tire dressing and you're done! It won't necessarily be perfect, but it will give the tires a refresh until you can do a more thorough cleaning and dressing later.
 
The afters pics below show a clean truck, that only took me a select few products and less than 1 hour of my time to complete. Best of all the paint is scratch free! This method can be modified to suit your individual process, how dirty your car is, or even what supplies you have at your disposal. While other popular methods might require you to use 1 towel per panel that becomes costly. A bucket of water can help 1 towel do multiple panels and keeps your overall cost down when it comes to the supplies needed. 
 
Hopfully this process helps take some of the mystery out of how this product can be used and gives you another way to make use of it in your own personal routine.