tony97gt

I'm no chemist, but if you think about what happens to wax if you put that container in a pan of hot water, your hot pressure wash might be doing the same thing.

Thanks guys. I'll go with 5oz to 64 oz of water for the pre-soaking solution. I'll report back how it works, but I'm sure like all the other Adams products I will be nothing but impressed.

I personally found that the GWD towel was too stiff and rigid because the RW doesn't leave much water behind. I used a single soft to dry off and it worked great.

What would be the correct ratio to mix rinseless wash in a 2 litre sprayer bottle to use as a pre-soak for a rinseless wash? Thanks!

Also, try to use the top of your hand, with the towel on top of that, to wipe the windshield inside. As opposed to the normal practice of using the towel in your palm. Works great for me.

No, they do offer that model but I got the short nozzle one. I haven't officially used it yet, but I filled it up with some water and tested out the spray. Seems to be a pretty good spray pattern and the bottle/nozzle seem pretty sturdy. I think they are made on Germany, not China. I'll post up some pics soon.

If you can afford it, get it. It's worth its weight in gold. You never have to touch the car to dry it. No way to induce scratching.

I would get the swirl and haze remover. Its the bridge between those two products. Otherwise you might find yourself spending much more time trying to get fmp to remove the cutting done by ssr. I think its on sale.

SVRT is great stuff! But it will make you fall on your @$$ if you put it on the running boards and use it for a step.

I bought a SOLO pump 2 ltr sprayer on Amazon for $25 shipped.

I would suggest some hearing protection when using the MB. It can get pretty loud when you blow all that air into cracks and crevices.

Done

It sounds like either you've used the wrong names of the products or you missed a step in the polish process when you ordered. The older system was a 3 step system- Severe Swirl Remover (green pad/green polish), Swirl and Haze Remover (orange pad/orange polish), and Fine Machine Polish (white pad/white polish). The new system is a 2 step system- paint correcting polish (orange pad/orange polish) and paint finishing polish (white pad/white polish). I'm only asking because in one sentence you mention machine finishing polish and then you later say fine machine polish, they are 2 different products. You will be happy with the detail spray, that stuff is like shine in a bottle, and it smells great, just don't drink it-lol.

No worry about freezing here in sunny South Fla. Today's temps were in the 80's, rough winter here. I did try it again today on my work vehicle, and I found I got a little quicker with it. I can see how the single bucket method would be much quicker, but I'd be washing towels left/right with 3 vehicles to keep clean. I'm going to try the presoaking method, need to find a good quality sprayer to invest in.

Before Pics-

Decided to try the new products today (rinseless wash, 2 step polish, microfiber pads, liquid sealant) on my black vehicle. The car had bad water stains from my sprinklers and heavy surface scratches from automatic carwashes and washing with a brush in the past. It's a 2010 Ford Crown Victoria and has never been corrected or even waxed in the area mentioned. I have corrected and waxed the trunk, hood, and quarter panels. Today I chose to hit the passenger rear body panel behind the back door. It's a police vehicle so it has 911 decals and such, which make it a bit difficult to hit it with the large pads and the flex. I chose to use the focus pads on my drill to make it easier and prevent any damage to the decals. First I did the entire car with rinseless wash using the 2 bucket system and a double soft towel. Then I used some WW and a clay bar to clean up the project area. The clay bar had some brown residue on it, which I'm guessing is the water rust stains. After the clay I dried the area using a SS towel, and did a pass with IPA, then dried again with SS towel. Now that the area was clean, it was time to get to work. I haven't used the microfiber pads as of yet, so this was my first time. I started with the orange pad/orange polish, and did a pass until it flashed. While the results were very impressive, I went for another pass just to see how far I could take it. After the second pass, it looked even better. Next I went with the white pad/white polish to finish it out. It looked like glass after those passes, and unfortunately it got dark outside and my work light overheated (South Fla). Once I got the finishing polish to flash I did a pass with IPA to clean the surface. Next I used the 4" sealant applicator pad and the new liquid sealant- I must say, that stuff adds a really nice pop/shine to the surface, and goes on/off really easy. I let that sit for about an hour (per the instructions on the bottle) while I finished putting up some Xmas lights. Came back and hit it with a layer of BG and APW for the face melter. Sorry to say but with it being so late I didn't get any pics of the finished product, but I will get some tomorrow. It did rain tonight, so I'll take a look at the area tomorrow and get some pics. I did get a pic or two of the area prior to starting. The finished area looked great and I was really pleased with the results of the microfiber pads, two step polish, and the liquid sealant. I have found myself saying "how the heck can Adams Polishes make anything better"? All the products seem to work great, it's hard to see where they could improve. But you guys are doing a great job at improving what already works well.

Yes I actually use the SVRT milk on the entire engine bay, then go over it with a block sponge to knock it down and even it out. Freaks people out when they pop the hood. I save the In/Out spray for the plastic grill area of my wife's car.

I think I've spent $300 just in shipping with all the products I have. I have everything they sell in gallon refills, master blaster, buckets, towels, even unused pads and towels sitting on top of my storage cabinet. And I don't even detail as much as some of the others on here. Wife can't complain about the products, never has and never will. It's her car that gets the most detailing attention.

So I washed my wife's car yesterday before we went out to a party last night. Low and behold, as we are at the party, it starts to rain. Strangely enough, I didn't find myself as aggravated as usual (not only because I've become used to the fact that if I want it to rain, I need to wash one of my 3 vehicles) because I was happy that I now had a valid excuse and opportunity to use the rinseless wash that has been sitting on my cart. I did the two bucket method with the double soft towel, like Dylan did. I also used a SS to dry, as the GWDT felt too dry and rough for the small amount of water that was left on the surface. After all was said and done, I was very pleased with the results. I will say though, that it almost seems like it takes the same amount of time for me to complete a rinseless wash as it does a regular wash. I guess the advantage would be that I'm not using so much water, soap, electricity to run the MasterBlaster, or having to drag out as much stuff into the driveway. After I was done with the RW I went over the entire car with DS and hit the tires with another coat of SVRT to make them pop. Everything looked great! Of course it rained again tonight. I swear the Adam's team has bought stock in mother nature!!

Driving an R8, you should own every product Adams offers. That thing deserves only the best. Not to mention that color....I would NEVER let anybody wash it but myself.

Once you try the master blaster, you will never towel dry again. I use the darn thing to dry my truck, cars, boat, atv....everything! I even use it to blow out my a/c drain line every few months. Not to mention it's on sale for 15% off and free shipping this weekend. You can't go wrong. If you really wanted a little extra shine, like stated above I would hit the vehicle with DS and a microfiber like SS or double soft towels.

I think I have that on my weatehrstripping as well. My guess is its just airborne contaminants that settle on the rubber and are baked on by sun and then probably grow or discolor with the dew and rain water. Given that it's nearly a flat surface, and sort of recessed from the wind, that's my guess. I can't get it off either, I just pretend it's not there. I have tried APC and SVRT, and nothing is a permanant solution.

It works

That's the problem, this stuff only adheres to the paint for a few months on average. If you go and put a new layer of it on top of a partially deteriorated layer, the new stuff will wdhere to the old stuff that is basically falling off, thus the new stuff will fall off with it. Think of it like paint, if you are painting bare metal every few months with new paint, it will hold up much longer than painting over old paint that is flaking off. Th new paint will flake off with the old paint. That's the point of the strip wash and clay, to give you that "bare metal" surface to appy your new protection to.

Thank Dylan, it looked flawless in the garage with the lack of direct sunlight, but when I got it outside in the sun I noticed quite a bit of micro scratches and some left over etching from water stains. I think what might have happened with the scratches was when I used a double soft to remove the residue in between polishes, I think I might have introdcued those scratches. But I do know that the direct light reveals everthing. So I'm debating if I go into a polish with the severe swirl remover then step up to the correcting polish and finish polish, or if I go back over it with the correcting and finishing and try out the microfiber pads to see if that cuts better. What's your advice here? Gonna slap on some of that new Liquid Sealant too that I just ordered!