BKazzle

DAT: Diminishing Abrasive Technology (i.e Adam's, Scholl Concepts, Menzerna)  These polishes have abrasives that diminish into smaller, finer, more numerous chunks the more they are worked until they ultimately "break down".  If you don't work these polishes long enough it will result in surface hazing.
 
SMAT: Super Micro Abrasive Technology (i.e Megs 105/205, Optimum Polishes)  These polishes have abrasives that do not break down into smaller particulate.  Once you get their technique down, they can cut and finish fast & incredibly well!

Most people check the forecast daily to plan what to wear, I check it daily to figure out if I should detail or not.

umm...

Read the label on the bottle, it's clearly outlined. 
 
Apply via machine, let it setup on the paint for 30 minutes, wipe off MSS with a clean single soft or double soft microfiber towel and then let the vehicle sit for 12-24 hours before layering any additional products.
 
Easy peasy lemon squeezie.

Only time I have seen anything close to foam as well.
 
 

Also that nastiness is from the passenger floormat that was cleaned at the dealership... a bit of CUC in the Bissel with the hot water as well. Works great.

I feel kind of bad for saying this, but I hate when I get "help" from friends and family members who want to detail their cars, but they don't bother to pay attention to the finer details as they go. I just end up going back over the same areas and feel like it would have been easier to do everything myself.

The only reason I suggested tinted clear as being a possible cause (eventhough I said "most likely") was because he said on his first car he corrected, he didn't have this same problem.  
That's the only reason I suggested it. I knew Ford uses tinted clear coats and after looking at their color codes, it seems as their reds use tinted clear.  
That's my reasoning. Not looking to start an argument, just pointing out my thoughts. Either way the OP isn't doing anything wrong or shouldn't be worried about anything.

Tinted Clear coat most likely...Ford is doing this now.

Just used it today and worked fine.

You can achieve the same level as correction. It will just take more time and passes with the PC.

If PFP on a finishing pad doesn't work, Instead of upgrading to the PCP, I would use the PFP on a orange pad and see where that gets you.

Nice...too much 4g and 4b for me-I'm outta here!! Jk jk (look at my avi)
 
Looks like you might be a big hit with the local Evo club. Good work and hopefully more cars come your way.

Well unlucky for them, they don't know who I am. My wonderful lady happens to be in charge of a lot of dealers; this one happens to be part of that auto-group. They're supposed to use the mats like you said, but apparently they didn't think it was necessary this time. She was so pissed when I sent her that picture.
 
They wanted me to bring it back and they would wash it up for me. She obviously knows no one gets to wash my car inside or out because I'm just at crazy as everyone here.

Hmmmm...that same matte type finish is on the CTS B and C pillars.
 
I'll try it tomorrow and see if I get that issue. I'm determined to find a solution (if there is one); I can't help myself.

Most likely your car did not come perfect from the factory and polishing will be necessary if you want a perfect finish.  Here is a pic of a brand new car just seconds after I took the wrappings off of it, meaning I was the first to see it since it left the factory.  

BG will give you a good bead but it won't last like GS will.  The wiper action is really what degrades that the most I think.  With that being said, try just BG on your side/back windows first and see how long it lasts.  It might surprise you.  That way you're not wasting GS on the other windows.

These are our pups, Clancy (named after a local beer) and Lacey.

I still have mixed feelings on this product.  It leaves the interior smelling fresh and does a good job at removing light to moderate dirt and light stains.  It's the "dressing" part of it that I don't care for a whole lot.  It doesn't leave the surface dark enough to look like you did something to your interior and it doesn't apply very evenly on smooth surfaces which my Optima has a lot of.  It leaves the turn signal and wiper stalks not perfectly even and the whole lower dash somewhat streaky, but as you can see in the pics below it can be evened out, it just takes a lot of effort on smooth surfaces.  I like it best for textured plastics and leather.  On vinyl it wasn't perfectly even either without some effort.  
 
Here is a pic showing the difference between TID and a dedicated dressing that I use.  As you can see, TID on the left, left streaks on the smooth plastic when just wiped over the surface and the dressing on the right left it much darker and did not leave streaks on the right side when just wiped over the surface.

 
Now here is what TID only looks like, but it takes too much effort IMO to make it look nice.  I'd rather clean with LIC and then finish with a normal dressing.




 
For me, TID is a great light cleaner and odor neutralizer but just a half-baked dressing.  I'd prefer TID without the dressing aspect because then it would make a great cleaner without having to put in the effort of evening it out.
 
*I know I gotta vacuum those mats.

I dry mine using the side kick first, then grab my Kwazar with a quick detailer diluted 1:1 with distilled water and spray as I'm drying.
 
I have two types of drying towels and one of them is their Great White. I can use one towel to dry the car (not including door jambs, etc..).
 
It could probably be less than one towel, but I'm OCD and only like to use one side of the folded towel per panel depending on the size of it. Their Great White towels work wonders when sprayed directly with diluted Detail Spray: works better than a dry one.
 
Their detail spray diluted works fine for me. (Top detail spray I've used, but haven't even used the new one yet: have two bottles waiting for me).

Old Formula
 
I haven't used the new formula yet (have two bottles waiting).
 
I don't notice a difference at all and that goes for any quick detailer. But like I've said before, Adam's Detail Spray is at the top of the lists of QDs that I've used and that's just the old formula. The new formula is supposed to be better. Although I've seen some people have issues with the new formula; but I think it's mostly because it wasn't used correctly.

Old Formula
 
I haven't used the new formula yet (have two bottles waiting).
 
I don't notice a difference at all and that goes for any quick detailer. But like I've said before, Adam's Detail Spray is at the top of the lists of QDs that I've used and that's just the old formula. The new formula is supposed to be better. Although I've seen some people have issues with the new formula; but I think it's mostly because it wasn't used correctly.

I haven't used their APC on the headliner, but you have to be very careful of over saturating the area. This could cause the adhesive underneath to loosen.
 
Best practice is to not spray the product directly on the headliner, but to lightly dampen the towel you're using and use a blot and twist type motion/action.
 
I have seen people have success with Woolite/water dilution if you happen to have Woolite. But carpet/upholstery cleaners are your best bet and DILUTED APCs usually work as well.
 
I have a few makeup brushes that I use on delicate areas, so if the wife has an unused one you could try that.

This is why I buy Adam's products. There are no unreal claims and everyone on the Adam's staff is completely honest.
 
I saw honesty...I tested...I liked...and I'm here to stay.

Basically normal for a new brush. Mine did the same thing for the first two times using it.

All brushes do this and is not exclusive to Adam's.
 
Edit: Yes break in period would be a good way of saying it. Over time the brushes stop shedding unless of course it's a cheaply made one; not an issue with Adam's stuff.