Polishing what looks to be an excellent condition car

[Z06Seal]

ok, so the corvette is here and I've checked out the paint... Except in a few spots (mainly roof) the paint appears to be 100% swirl and scratch free. It really looks like the best condition it could be in...

 

Got me thinking if a polish is even necessary...

 

What can a polish like the paint finishing polish offer to a car that already looks really good from the factory as far as non existence of any imperfections?

 

I'm thinking I dawn wash the car, clay the it, skip polish and go right to seal/wax/glaze... help me out here... is there a need? will it make the paint 'pop' more (which I don't think is the purpose of a polish)?

 

It's actually clean enough to even do a rinseless wash, but I'm going to give it a dawn wash just incase there is some stuff left over from the factory?

[The Guz]

Polish will add more gloss.  If you are happy with the look then skip the polish. 

[hockeybawler]

Personally, I would still polish it to make the paint pop and also maybe spray deep wheel cleaner or a product designed to get iron off the paint.  Just how I would was my new vette

[Dan@Adams]

Agree with the others.  I personally would not wash it with Dawn or any other household product, they aren't designed for vehicles and can cause things like rubber trim to dry up prematurely.  Granted, it's a brand new car and you would only be doing it once, but I still wouldn't do that to a $60k+ vehicle if it was mine or a customer's.

 

I would however, test a few areas with DS and a clay bar to see if the finish warrants claying the whole vehicle before polishing by hand with Revive Hand Polish or with a machine and some Paint Finishing Polish.  I realize that most of the car was wrapped for transport, so you hopefully don't have any type of rail dust issues, but that wrap could have also left some imperfections in the finish.  Polishing will just improve the look of the car more, even if it is brand new.

 

How long ago was the car built?  That will also determine if you should put any type of wax or sealant on it.  The rule of thumb is usually 30-45 days for paint and clearcoat to cure before applying any type of wax or sealant, so you definitely want to keep that in mind too.

Edited March 5, 2015 by psu goat

[JHL88]

If the clear is that good in condition it sounds like a good candidate for revive

[Z06Seal]

Agree with the others.  I personally would not wash it with Dawn or any other household product, they aren't designed for vehicles and can things like rubber trim to dry up prematurely.  Granted, it's a brand new car and you would only be doing it once, but I still wouldn't do that to a $60k+ vehicle if it was mine or a customer's.

 

I would however, test a few areas with DS and a clay bar to see if the finish warrants claying the whole vehicle before polishing by hand with Revive Hand Polish or with a machine and some Paint Finishing Polish.  I realize that most of the car was wrapped for transport, so you hopefully don't have any type of rail dust issues, but that wrap could have also left some imperfections in the finish.  Polishing will just improve the look of the car more, even if it is brand new.

 

How long ago was the car built?  That will also determine if you should put any type of wax or sealant on it.  The rule of thumb is usually 30-45 days for paint and clearcoat to cure before applying any type of wax or sealant, so you definitely want to keep that in mind too.

 

Car was built on 2/23/15. I don't think the panels were painted that day though. (car takes 2 days to be built) I think the panels are pre-painted

 

I don't have any revive. I guess I can hit it up with the machine. a 1 step with paint finishing would only add couple hours to my routine that I plan on doing friday. It's not like an SUV that I'm throwing polish on it. I gotta do the roof anyways... It was also delivered via truck. came off the assembly line, sat with a wrap for 2 days and then came down in a truck in 1 or 2 days. no railing for this one

Edited March 4, 2015 by Z06Seal

[Team Adam's]

Don't forget to clay! New cars need it... Sometimes more than cars that have been on the road.

[Ricky Bobby]

Do it right or do it twice. Please don't wash with dawn, just add some apc to your soap bucket.

 

You are most definitely going to need an iron remover (DWC 1:1) because of all the fallout from transport, and after that follow up with clay.

 

It's black right? That's a cold day in hell that I see a new black car that doesn't at least need a pass with PF Polish as new car prep, before applying LSP.

 

What is your LSP going to be? I would apply 2 coats of LPS after the prep, Decon, and polishing to lock in protection than top with traditional wax (patriot etc) as needed

[Z06Seal]

Do it right or do it twice. Please don't wash with dawn, just add some apc to your soap bucket.

 

You are most definitely going to need an iron remover (DWC 1:1) because of all the fallout from transport, and after that follow up with clay.

 

It's black right? That's a cold day in hell that I see a new black car that doesn't at least need a pass with PF Polish as new car prep, before applying LSP.

 

What is your LSP going to be? I would apply 2 coats of LPS after the prep, Decon, and polishing to lock in protection than top with traditional wax (patriot etc) as needed

 

 

No dawn? isn't dawn a reccomended method for stripping? I can do blue shampoo with APC, but I thought dawn was an alternative. I don't think this car anything on it to begin with but...

 

Unfortunetly I don't have deep wheel cleaner from adam's. (yet) I'll have to use an alternative for now. suggestions for over the counter for this time?

 

It's red LSP was going to be buttery wax

 

wash > clay > polish (white) > LPS > glaze > buttery wax was my planned course of action

[Ricky Bobby]

No dawn? isn't dawn a reccomended method for stripping? I can do blue shampoo with APC, but I thought dawn was an alternative. I don't think this car anything on it to begin with but...

 

I mean you can do it, but its not something I recommend.  It dries out plastic trim a ton as well.  I have other ways of stripping the finish that don't involve dawn.  FWIW, a spray on decon product will strip the finish, so if you are doing that step you can just wash with Car Shampoo.

-Strip Wash with APC in the Car Shampoo

-Spray on Decon prior to claying and drying paint

-Revive polish also strips the finish if you are using that

-You could always mix a 15-20% IPA solution and wipe down the car after the wash as well

 

Unfortunetly I don't have deep wheel cleaner from adam's. (yet) I'll have to use an alternative for now. suggestions for over the counter for this time?

 

-For spray paint decon?  You'll have to use one of the iron fighting wheel cleaner brands, I don't think any of those are sold in Pep Girls or ManualZone.  Sonax Fallout, IronX, Iron Out, etc are the other popular brands, I'd just get a bottle of DWC though because you'll get 32oz of iron remover out of 1 bottle (its diluted 1:1 as a paint decon product)

 

It's red LSP was going to be buttery wax

 

Buttery will be fine, keep in mind you'll get approx 2 months of longevity out of it, its not a terribly long lasting LSP, but does layer well.  You could wax once a month with it.

 

wash > clay > polish (white) > LPS > glaze > buttery wax was my planned course of action

 

So you are doing Liquid Paint Sealant as the base protection?  Good plan, top with glaze and wax as you'd like, although on red I'd prob recommend topping with Americana or Patriot when your buttery runs out.

 

See my answers above I hope that helps.

[Z06Seal]

See my answers above I hope that helps.

 

Thanks Jason,

 

Now that I think about it, if I'm going to polish the car, it doesn't matter what I wash with... the polish is going to remove everything anyways lol.

 

I just wish I had some deep wheel cleanaer for the areas that might have rail dust etc, but I don't

 

yes, plan is LPS followed by glaze then buttery wax. I'll probably wax it once a month as theraphy.

[Beemer]

Claying will get rid of the rail dust. I wouldn't worry about the decon if I were you....

 

I would also echo the recommendation to use APC and Car wash shampoo to strip wash.  I also wipe down w/ IPA per panel right before I polish.

 

I would definitely do a polish session after claying. One step machine or hand polish should be fine.

[SYMAWD]

You likely don't have rail dust because it was shipped fully wrapped. Just do the baggy test and see if any contaminants are present.

[Z06Seal]

Claying will get rid of the rail dust. I wouldn't worry about the decon if I were you....

 

I would also echo the recommendation to use APC and Car wash shampoo to strip wash.  I also wipe down w/ IPA per panel right before I polish.

 

I would definitely do a polish session after claying. One step machine or hand polish should be fine.

 

 

Well, if I'm polishing, that should strip anything regardless correct?

 

Kinda wish I had revive polish but I don't... oh well.. I know they're working on a new version of it so... gives me a reason to test out the flex anyways. the white pads and white polish should do a good job with it.

 

Clay bar won't remove all rail dust. I learned this the hard way when I did my volt.

 

I will do the baggy test after I wash her and then clay. Friday is the day. I will start nice and early

[The Guz]

Keep it simple.  Wash, clay, polish (optional) and protect.  Don't over think it.  You can also use the paint finishing polish by hand if you just want to do a light polish. 

[Beemer]

The problem w/ polishing without doing a strip-wash first is that if there's anything on the paint it could clog your pads and make the polishing less effective.

 

In your case I wouldn't worry about it at all.  You know the dealer didn't put anything on it so you're good to go.

[goheels]

My advice is to skip the polish.  Why remove clear coat (even if it is a very small amount) unnecessarily if the paint is already 100% swirl+scratch free?  If you get some marring after claying, then I can see its use.  But I certainly wouldn't be polishing if the paint is free from defect.

[TheBurninator]

Clay bar won't remove all rail dust. I learned this the hard way when I did my volt.

It depends on how aggressive the clay is. Adam's is a fine clay and not very aggressive.

 

Keep in mind clay is still an abrasive and to maximize your shine you should polish after claying to remove and possible marring from the clay process.

[Z06Seal]

It depends on how aggressive the clay is. Adam's is a fine clay and not very aggressive.

 

Keep in mind clay is still an abrasive and to maximize your shine you should polish after claying to remove and possible marring from the clay process.

 

Very true....

 

I washed the car today and she looks really good. I can't wait to do my thing friday. I might do a section and see how I feel about it, then I'll go from there. I'll keep you guys updated on the matter

 

def needs clay. that's for sure

Edited March 5, 2015 by Z06Seal

[Ricky Bobby]

My advice is to skip the polish.  Why remove clear coat (even if it is a very small amount) unnecessarily if the paint is already 100% swirl+scratch free?  If you get some marring after claying, then I can see its use.  But I certainly wouldn't be polishing if the paint is free from defect.

 

I've never seen a car roll out of a factory, on a transporter, to a dealership, and remain 100% swirl + imperfection free.

[Z06Seal]

I've never seen a car roll out of a factory, on a transporter, to a dealership, and remain 100% swirl + imperfection free.

 

to my eyes, I don't see a single thing (except the couple on roof that I mentioned) I really don't. and since I'm the one i'm trying to satisfy, i'm pretty happy with what I see...

 

I'm still going to give her a polish friday (just because) but I'm telling you there isn't a single one I can find on the car... I'm sure if I looked even deeper, i'd find a couple, but it's way over my satisfied level. if I have to hunt for swirls, it's too good for me. lol

[Ricky Bobby]

So Emir how about this. If it's satisfying to your eyes, why not just prep it yourself with a wash, clay bar completely, and just deal with 2 coats of LPS and top as needed?

 

Worst comes to worst is in a year from now after a few dozen washes you'll have some fine scratches and then go to town with the polishes then.

 

Sound good?

[Z06Seal]

So Emir how about this. If it's satisfying to your eyes, why not just prep it yourself with a wash, clay bar completely, and just deal with 2 coats of LPS and top as needed?

 

Worst comes to worst is in a year from now after a few dozen washes you'll have some fine scratches and then go to town with the polishes then.

 

Sound good?

 

Yup, I'm going to see how that turns out.

 

I was really asking if polish would give anymore shine to the clearcoat. There really isn't any correcting to do. Something the revive polish would have been good for

[The Guz]

Again you can use paint correcting polish by hand to achieve the same results as what you would get with revive. 

 

 

So Emir how about this. If it's satisfying to your eyes, why not just prep it yourself with a wash, clay bar completely, and just deal with 2 coats of LPS and top as needed?

Worst comes to worst is in a year from now after a few dozen washes you'll have some fine scratches and then go to town with the polishes then.

Sound good?

 

I would just do this and call it a day.

[Dan@Adams]

I guess my first post was "too long, didn't read the whole thing" because I mentioned NOT using Dawn dishwashing soap as well

 

I'm also surprised no one else in here is telling you to wait a bit before applying LPS or Buttery Wax.  If the car was just assembled on Feb 23rd, unless I knew without a doubt that those panels were painted and cleared quite some time before it rolled down the assembly line, I would still be waiting a few weeks to apply any type of sealant or wax on the car, but that is just my personal opinion.  It might even say something in the Owner's Manual under one of the maintenance sections.  You've waited this long for the car, you can wait another week or two, right?

 

The short explanation is that the clear need to outgas correctly, which is why most professional painters say to wait 30 or even 45 days before applying any type of product that is designed to seal the paint - they are just following the recommendations of the paint manufacturer and covering their work from any potential defects.

Edited March 5, 2015 by psu goat

[Performance Auto Detailing]

I guess my first post was "too long, didn't read the whole thing" because I mentioned NOT using Dawn dishwashing soap as well

 

I'm also surprised no one else in here is telling you to wait a bit before applying LPS or Buttery Wax.  If the car was just assembled on Feb 23rd, unless I knew without a doubt that those panels were painted and cleared quite some time before it rolled down the assembly line, I would still be waiting a few weeks to apply any type of sealant or wax on the car, but that is just my personal opinion.  It might even say something in the Owner's Manual under one of the maintenance sections.  You've waited this long for the car, you can wait another week or two, right?

 

The short explanation is that the clear need to outgas correctly, which is why most professional painters say to wait 30 or even 45 days before applying any type of product that is designed to seal the paint - they are just following the recommendations of the paint manufacturer and covering their work from any potential defects.

 

You can wax or seal brand new factory paint. Its the resprays that need time to out-gas. Factory paint is baked on during production. The heating process cures the paint 

Edited March 5, 2015 by lax