Liquid paint sealant / lsp question

[Ace22]

I recently did a full paint correction (my car is a garage queen and only had mild defects from winter), and after claying/polishing with Adam's products, I currently have 2 layers of liquid paint sealant and pleased with the results.  I have used Brilliant Glaze in the past for looks/shows, but man I really think the carnuba (although little) attracts sooooo much pollen/dust in my area it lasts literally only a few hours before it is covered with dust.

 

I am currently using a synthetic sealer to reduce pollen/dust attraction, although I have used Americana with good results...just the same issues as brilliant glaze.

 

Is there a product that I can use regularly without carnuba to enhance gloss/depth?  I am currently using H20 Guard and Gloss as an enhancer afterwards and have been pleased, but I love the look of Brilliant Glaze, just not the pollen/dust attraction.

 

Thanks as any help is appreciated

Edited March 17, 2016 by Ace22

[Ricky Bobby]

Honestly I'd just stick with the Liquid Paint Sealant as base, maintain it with H2o, and do wipedowns with Detail Spray.  Should be ridiculous amount of shine thats slick and doesnt attract dust/pollen.

[Ace22]

That's my current plan of action and will probably continue to do so as I have found it best at deterring dust/pollen (I live in the windy country here in Ohio!).  Thanks!

[pirahnah3]

I use PS and HGG for my winter routine. Def does a great job of protection even in a new england winter. I was able to get a total of a whopping 2 coats of HGG on this winter and it never stopped nicely beading for me. 

[Rich]

I can't add here.  That's exactly what I would do. 

[Firebuff17]

Yup. Same here. Liquid paint sealant and HGG. Does amazing in New England weather

[James__]

I am using Liquid Paint Sealant and H2O G&G on my daily. Has done incredibly well even in harsh weather and far less than ideal conditions on the jobsite. Even heavy dirt and grimes is easily removed.

[Lee]

Just used H20 G&G for the first time yesterday. I have LPS as a base and also have some buttery wax and brilliant glaze in my regiment, should I continue to use that periodically or is that overkill with the H20?

Edited March 20, 2016 by Lee

[Ricky Bobby]

Brilliant glaze you can add a bunch of times it doesnt build up - Buttery also doesnt build up but should be on top of the sealants.

 

If you want to incorporate Buttery - I would probably apply LPS bi-yearly, every 2 months do H2O and a top coat of Buttery - you def want the Buttery on top - you can apply BG whenever

 

It is kind of a crowded regimen if you are using LPS, H2O, BG, and Buttery IMO however -

Edited March 20, 2016 by Ricky Bobby

[Chris@Adams]

Next time lay down the BG after polish and before PS, then maintain your PS with H20 G&G.

[PHOKUS]

Next time lay down the BG after polish and before PS, then maintain your PS with H20 G&G.

 

Doesn't this reduce the longevity and effectiveness of LPS? 

 

My understanding is LPS works best when it is able to bond directly to the paint or clearcoat surface. Then apply any glaze/wax on top of LPS. Is this not the case?

[Chris@Adams]

Doesn't this reduce the longevity and effectiveness of LPS?

 

My understanding is LPS works best when it is able to bond directly to the paint or clearcoat surface. Then apply any glaze/wax on top of LPS. Is this not the case?

No I haven't noticed it effecting the longevity of the PS.

[TheWolf]

While I have not personally tested applying LPS on top of BG or polishing oils, I would think it would be the same as any other product that is designed to bond to the surface and that it would bond best to a surface free of oil, wax or other products.

 

For additional information, refer to the FAQ that discusses Glaze and Sealant and their primary purposes and affects on layering:

 

http://www.adamsforu...y-car/?p=434202

 

A few key points:

 

 

Sealants, glazes, waxes, and even coatings - in the world of car care right now there are a number of options when it comes to protection and enhancement of your vehicles exterior.

UNDERSTANDING YOUR OPTIONS

Each type of product provides unique benefits and some level of compromise. Understanding what benefits are part of each type of product and choosing your last step product (LSP) or combination of steps based on what you need them to do is important. Ultimately, each person needs to strike their own personal balance between 2 aspects:

DURABILITY = how long the product lasts and how well it protects the underlying clearcoat.

AESTHETICS = the visual impact the product provides in terms of added gloss, depth, etc.

GLAZE:

Durability: Very Low | Aesthetics: High

Glaze has long been a favorite product of car lots all over the world since they offer fast, easy, and inexpensive enhancement of painted surfaces in one step. However, the short lived effects have left more than a few new car owners wondering why their recent purchase looked so awful after just a few washes.

Ultimately glazes are best suited as a compliment to another LSP or used only for short term enhancement. The blends rarely lend themselves to more than a week of staying power in mild conditions and they're often easily washed away or evaporate when exposed to moderate heat.

In spite their short lifespan on your vehicles finish a glaze can offer fast, easy, and dramatic enhancement of gloss and depth making them a great choice as a topper right before a show, cruise, or whenever you want a little extra 'pop' on your finish.

SEALANT:

Durability: Moderate to High | Aesthetics: Low to Moderate

Sealants tend to be mostly synthetic man made products chemically engineered to do very specific things, but mostly they excel at providing durable protection.

LAYERING MULTIPLE PRODUCTS

As a general rule, the most durable product should always be used as the base, so for example if you were working with a sealant and a wax, the sealant would be your base layer that is then topped with the wax. The only exception to this rule comes into play with a combination of glazes and wax. Because wax doesn't bond to the paint in the same manner as a sealant or a coating a glaze can be used UNDER a wax to maximize the filling ability of the glaze without compromising the longevity of the wax coat.

The best thing to do is to experiment for yourself to see what you like. With so many possible combinations theres going to be a process that suits you best, finding it is just a matter of trying them and evaluating for yourself.

 

 

 

 

A couple more posts on the topic:

 

If the reason you're adding sealant to the mix is for durability, flip the order of the glaze and the sealant. (Sealant first, then glaze) By putting glaze down first your significantly shortening the longevity of the sealant, and to that end whats the point of sealing if you're not doing it for the durability. You can do it the other way, but the benefits are largely lost.

 

 

 

Sealants need to bond to bare paint (or another coat of sealant) in order to maximize their durability. Remember, your top layer is at the mercy of the layer below it, so if you put a 6+ month sealant on top of a 4 week wax, that top coat of sealant will only last 4 weeks. Also, adding too many layers or layering too many different products can eventually cloud up the finish which is of course opposite of what we try to achieve by using these products.

 

 

 

An Isopropyl Alcohol wipedown is cheap insurance to ensure the residual polishing oils are removed from the surface before sealing them in. 

 

I'd do it, especially if it's a dark colored car. That's where you'll notice sealed-in oils/haziness the most.

 

 

To clarify, you have freshly polished your vehicle, and want to make extra sure you have a clean surface to seal on?

Isopropyl Alcohol and a Double Soft towel do the job. I typically spritz the panel and use a straight motion with the towel, like I would with Waterless Wash.

 

 

 

Based on this information, I would conclude that the sealant WILL make the glaze last a little longer than its typical 1-2 week lifespan, but certainly not on the order of months.

 

The sealant WILL NOT last near as long being applied on the top of the glaze, perhaps only a few weeks or a month, and not the normal 6 month lifespan that the sealant can provide.

 

So, if your goal is to use the glaze to hide imperfections or to add more gloss, and you want it to last a little longer than normal, add a layer of sealant or wax on top.  However, if your goal is to have a long lasting layer of protection by using the sealant, apply it first to bare, clean paint.

 

I really should run a test of this on a donor car, as I would not want to let one of my own vehicles go 6 months without any protection on the paint.

[Ricky Bobby]

^Dan I agree with you - except I still don't believe that a 2 week glaze will last longer being under a sealant.  Its a fallacy which I try to rectify a lot to some of the newer guys - and again I say whenever you want to glaze if you do so is fine, but its a misnomer that you can make one application of Brilliant Glaze last months.

 

You can't take a wax that lasts 30 days (say like a concours 'nuba) and seal on top of it and expect that wax to last you 6 months.

 

I've said it before that your strongest layer should be as a base layer, which would be a sealant.  A lot of the guys here recommend glazing before sealing and thats fine if thats what they want to do.  In my detailing and in my regimen I always recommend the strongest protection applied to freshly polished and bare paint as a base.

[BRZN]

I use a glaze to fill in and hide any slight (and I do mean slight) marring/imperfections before adding my LSP. I've found no loss to the longevity of sealants or waxes by applying them over top of glaze.

 

However, if I add glaze over top of my LSP (either sealant or wax) I have the benefit of the glaze for just a short period of time before it's gone. I only add Brilliant Glaze over top of the wax on my garage queen GTO. It's an awesome product to add the pop and clarity to the paint. Oh, and the solvents in glazes will degrade what ever product it's being applied over top of.

 

Search just a little here or through any search engine and you're going to find all sorts of conflicting information as to what to put down as a base layer, and what to, or not to put over top of one product or another. Experiment, see what works for you.

 

When Adam first released Brilliant Glaze I experimented on the hood and roof of my Dodge Magnum. Broke the areas into squares; unprotected, protected (wax or sealant), glaze on top, glaze underneath, glaze only Brilliant Glaze as well as a competitors I'd been using for a while.

I'd tell you what I found for myself, but you're results may vary! There's no one, absolute prescribed method. Go and experiment, that's part of the fun of this hobby!

Me, on the GTO, I really like:

paint correction/finish polish

glaze

two coats of wax

glaze before a show

Detail Spray or Rinseless Wash mixed as a Waterless Wash wipe down before a drive.

Edited March 20, 2016 by BRZN

[Chris@Adams]

Thanks Dave GREAT post.....I am with you. I have done this to many times not to believe in it. How many times have you seen Adam in his video's wipe oils from polish off with alcohol before applying sealant or wax? Never

[Ace22]

Currently I have a spray bottle of just distilled water...spray on a panel at a time, then H20 G&G, wipe and remove.

Ok, so pardon my ignorance, but is it possible to mix  the H20 G&G with water to dilute for a quick detail spray?  Spray on, wipe off?

[BRZN]

Continue the way your are. It attaches best to a wet panel, or from a damp towel.

 

However, why not give it a try? Mix a little into a small spray bottle with some distilled water and give it a try on a panel to see the results you get.

 

Let us know how it works!

[James__]

My thought is that because it is water activated, if it is mixed with water and allowed to sit, it may lose its effectiveness over time.  However, I would also be interested in hearing about a trial; If you do decide to give it a shot, be sure to let us know how it works!

[stripesace]

I would NOT add any water to H2O guard and gloss or attempt to dilute. Its a water activated acrylic.

I'm going to put a drop on a piece of glass tonight then add a drop of water and just let it sit and see what happens. 

[flyboy9994]

I would NOT add any water to H2O guard and gloss or attempt to dilute. Its a water activated acrylic.

I'm going to put a drop on a piece of glass tonight then add a drop of water and just let it sit and see what happens. 

Interesting. Please post your findings. I'm thinking G&G won't play well if mixed in water before applying.

 

Who knows, I've seen stranger things happen. Might work great!

[Ace22]

I was thinking of adding it fresh per use and not letting it sit.  I'll play around with the idea next waterless wash, it would be cool though to have a spray on wipe off.  I  know it's water activated...but why not activate it then spray?

[James__]

Interesting point. I am interested in how it does!

[mrpresident]

I would NOT add any water to H2O guard and gloss or attempt to dilute. Its a water activated acrylic.

[James__]

I would NOT add any water to H2O guard and gloss or attempt to dilute. Its a water activated acrylic.

I'm going to put a drop on a piece of glass tonight then add a drop of water and just let it sit and see what happens. 

 

 

I would NOT add any water to H2O guard and gloss or attempt to dilute. Its a water activated acrylic.

 

Is there a reason this is a copy and paste response from another member's previous post?

Edited April 21, 2016 by James__

[stripesace]

Is there a reason this is a copy and paste response from another member's previous post?