Swirl Killer Questions

[SS LeadFoot]

Getting ready to use my swirl killer for the first time. I have had it for a while now. I have the heavy correcting polish and the correcting polish. I was thinking of just using the heavy correcting polish with the microfiber pad. Is this ok or would a newer product work better? Once I get the car looking good with the heavy correcting polish is there anything I need to do before starting the ceramic coating process?

[SS LeadFoot]

19 minutes ago, RayS said:

It looks like Guz and Dan were able to give you the data needed.  As for cleaning the pads at the end of the day, I follow Dan's method with Eco All Purpose Cleaner, lots of water unless they rinse and the MicroFiber revitalizer followed by air drying.   I have used same pads for years and when they do get snagged or start to come apart, which is usually the velcro coming off, then I cut them apart to get under the door handle and the other odd spots that you can get to with a machine. 

 

When I buy pads, I try to get them when there is a good sale and buy 4 of each color.  The part of going this route is that you don't have to purchase them very often and you know that the group was all from the same manufacturing lot so they should work exactly the same.

 

Ray that is a great idea about cutting them and using them in different areas. Here are a few pics. Thanks everyone for all you input. I was extreamely nervous about using the swirl killer. You have made it a lot easier. 

 

First 2 pics are before the next 2 are after

 

[The Guz]

Looks like you are getting good results.  I always liked how my brothers red 03 grand prix looked when it was polished and coated many years ago before he sold it.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 21, 2020 by The Guz

[mc2hill]

Another thing with Microfiber pads - they can get hot quickly!  I have had the best results swapping out 2 pads, changing after each section worked.  Polish, clean pad, swap pad, repeat. 

I melted the backing plate on my Rupes (long throw, just like the Swirl Killer) doing slow passes over several sections with a MF pad without changing pads.

[SS LeadFoot]

Can I wash the car after I do the correcting polish and before the ceramic process? 

[The Guz]

Sure you can wash it.  Just be sure to blow all the water out of the various seams to not mess things up during the coating application.  Do you have the prep wipe product?  If you do just use that.  

[SS LeadFoot]

Strip wash or Mega Foam?

[The Guz]

Either one will be fine.  I would still recommend some sort of prep wipe to remove any surfactants left behind by either one.

[BRZN]

You don't need to wash the car after polishing, any remaining water will mess with your LSP. The Surface Prep will remove any oils from the polish that remains on the paint surface. It will leave you perfectly clean paint, ready for your chosen LSP.

[SS LeadFoot]

Used the correcting polish today. Car came out amazing! much better than expected. I think the correcting polish made some rock chips more visible. If I was to do it again I would use the heavy correcting compound only on the area with scratches then the correcting polish on the entire car. Last question is how do I get the left over polish in the cracks and badges off? Will surface prep and a qtip or a brush do the trick? 

[RayS]

19 minutes ago, SS LeadFoot said:

Used the correcting polish today. Car came out amazing! much better than expected. I think the correcting polish made some rock chips more visible. If I was to do it again I would use the heavy correcting compound only on the area with scratches then the correcting polish on the entire car. Last question is how do I get the left over polish in the cracks and badges off? Will surface prep and a qtip or a brush do the trick? 

Hi Seth,  The q-tip will tend to leave fuzz behind that will mess with your LSP.  The fuzz can be more difficult to get off than the polish remnants.   If you can't use the edge of a microfiber towel, then you may need to go with a plastic razor blade or plastic toothpick.