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3M Clear Film


VertimgoC502

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I would like input of opinions on the 3M Clear Film to protect the front end. Are there different thicknesses? Do they really work? Although they are "invisible" I can pick them out easily. I was told $845 for an upper and lower front end and rear trunk - is that a good price?

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<IFRAME style="Z-INDEX: 100000; BORDER-BOTTOM: 0px; POSITION: absolute; BORDER-LEFT: 0px; WIDTH: 1px; HEIGHT: 1px; BORDER-TOP: 0px; TOP: 0px; BORDER-RIGHT: 0px; LEFT: 0px" id=_atssh876 height=1 src="//s7.addthis.com/static/r07/sh21.html#cb=0&ab=pz-0&dh=www.adamsforums.com&dr=&du=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adamsforums.com%2Fforums%2Feditpost.php%3Fdo%3Deditpost%26p%3D140625&dt=&inst=1&lng=en-us&pc=men-200&pub=scott111&ssl=0&sid=4c84c60612bf3317&srd=1&srf=0.02&srp=0.2&srx=0&ver=200&xck=0&rev=80002&xd=1" frameBorder=0 width=1 name=_atssh876></IFRAME>

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Bob, you must have the patience of Buddha. I'll do most anything to/with my car myself, but a man's gotta know his limitations, I paid to have this done. If you don't install this in an almost "clean room" you're going to get some dirt underneath. The job on Bob's G8 is pretty nice, and I've seen another: SkiPopeye, who did a very nice job himself.

 

I used to wax mine, then I discovered this miracle product!

 

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Adam's Clear Polish

 

 

 

Adam's Clear Polish treats and protects automotive clear bras and clear plastic headlights. Polishes and prevents yellowing and clouding!

 

 

Adam's Clear Polish is the first car treatment of it's kind, designed specifically to protect automotive clear bras and clear plastic headlights! Without special care, the 3M clear paint film material (clear bra) yellows and turns cloudy when exposed to the sun's UV rays. Clear plastic headlight lenses (used on all makes and models since 2005) suffer from the same affliction. Slow UV fade damage to these surfaces will cost you hundreds of dollars in replacement costs.

 

 

 

Adam's Clear Polish, when used as suggested, effectively blocks harmful UV rays, doubling the serviceable life of your clear bra and headlight lenses. Use Adam's Clear Polish 3-4 times a years and save hundreds of dollars in replacement costs, guaranteed.

 

 

Adam's Clear Polish is easy to use. Simply apply using and an Adam's Microfiber Applicator Pad, allow time to haze, then buff off with an Adam's Super Plush Microfiber Towel.

TIP: Do not use abrasive polishes on your clear bra. Your clear bra is soft and any product except a non-abrasive polish or wax will dull the finish. Once dulled or yellowed, the 3M paint film material cannot be repaired. Adam's Clear Polish contains no harmful abrasives or cleaners and effectively blocks the UV light that causes yellowing.

 

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I got the clear bra on my car also. The guy that did mine was just learning how to install it so a rep from the supplier came to show and help him. The guy that was learning did an excellent job while the guy that was supposed to be the pro sucked. I mean sucked. It rained the night they did the install and when I went out to the car the next morning there was a place bulging out at least an inch that was full of water. All along the bottom of the front bumper it had separated from the car too. I called the guy up and told him about it and he said to just bring it back and he could fix it. Well, after the 'fix' it's still not good so I will have to take it back again to see if he can get it to stick. I'm guessing he is going to have to cut out the bad places and patch in some new that will actually stick.

Now, this leads to what prompted me to post in this thread. Do you guys wax over the bra? I know that we need to protect it in some way but the guy that was teaching wasn't sure on what I was responsible to do. How do you guys treat the bra when you are waxing your car? I know I'm not going to run the PC over it but put some Americana maybe?

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If you're a patient person, you CAN do it yourself and save a few hundred bucks (you could buy some Americana), I did my G8 over a weekend. Dave (Brzn) has seen it and didn't snicker or guffaw too loudly. Front bumper, rockers, 1/4's in back of each wheel, headlights & fogs, and the rear bumper lip that Chris mentioned above cost about $400 from a company called invisiblemask.com (can I say that?), with free shipping, an instructional DVD, free clearcoat on the film, and an install kit. They have their own brand of film as well as 3M--your choice, both are 8mil thickness, and do guarantee their brand of film for life. I believe there is a limitation on the 3M material.

Dave's pic shows a pretty good stone hit, I have a couple on mine as well, the film is unscathed but the paint underneath is more indented than chipped. No one notices it but me.:thumbsup:

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I used Auto Graphics located at 62 Doe Run Rd. in Manheim, PA 17542 (717) 665-6964 Owner Bill Yeager. He'd be about an hour and a half from Catasauqua. You could check around closer to you with folks that do auto window tint, some do the Clear Bras too.

 

He has a CAD Machine there and cuts the film on the premises from a software program he has that has most any car you can imagine. X-Pel Clear Bra is what he used on mine (and I'm pretty sure it was 3M film) he had both the 6 and 2 mil. There was a piece on my car not included in the computer program, he made a template of that piece himself with a piece of paper, loaded it into the computer and had it cut out with everything else. I talked him into letting me stay to watch/help. It turned out to be an almost, six hour job: 6:00pm to midnight.

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Tim, I'd suggest leaving it to the pro's, as there is a good deal of learning curve involved. The right guy/gal/group will partially disassemble the nose of your car, so that the film wraps the edges perfectly.

 

Very true! Here is a link to a film installation by Adam's dealer Phil Yiu at Detailer's Domain. You can see they remove the bumper, lights, and hood on the 911. http://detailersdomain.wordpress.com/2010/01/31/clear-film-installation-2002-911-turbo/

 

Warning, I am not responsible for your keyboard getting wet when you see all the shelves full of Adam's products in the background!:drool:

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It seems everything is positive especially for daily driver. Is installation a DIY or leave it to the pro's?

 

Tim, I'd suggest leaving it to the pro's, as there is a good deal of learning curve involved. The right guy/gal/group will partially disassemble the nose of your car, so that the film wraps the edges perfectly.

 

The goal is to avoid repainting when a chip happens, and if the edges are not covered, the chips will happen anyway, and the film is a waste of time and money! Murphy's Law: Rocks will always find the smallest, unprotected area of your car.

 

;)

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I'm a fan of clear bras, but I also think it depends on the car. If you have a low sloping hood, like on my Porsche, they're a must. Mine has paid for itself in the 8 months I've had the car. For a car with more of a flat front it might not pay off as much. The dealership did mine. It was about $875 for the front spoiler and bumper, half the hood, wheel wells (around the headlights to the same level as the hood), and the rear view mirrors.

 

I'd leave the install to the pros. Doing the hood is easy since it's a big piece, but for items like the spoiler, it's a lot of smaller pieces that wrap around. It would be a pain to do it by hand. They have a machine that'll cut everything to spec.

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I would like input of opinions on the 3M Clear Film to protect the front end. Are there different thicknesses? Do they really work? Although they are "invisible" I can pick them out easily. I was told $845 for an upper and lower front end and rear trunk - is that a good price?

 

The price actually seems reasonable from what I have been quoted.

As for how well it works. A friend decided to bounce off the side of the Midtown Tunnel one day and clipped his Sideview Mirror with the wall. The 3M Film saved his paint. He just had to have the 3M replaced on the mirror.:2thumbs:

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Including PA sales tax mine was just over $900 installed on my GTO back in the spring of 2008: Front bumper and bumper extension, headlights, fog lights, leading edge of hood and front fenders, inside hood scoops, leading edge of both mirrors, door handles, inside all four wheel wells and under lower rear quarters.

 

I polished mine out to as close to 100% perfection as I could prior to the installation. The installer chuckled when I told him what I'd done and he said the adhesive would fill in most every imperfection, so my attention to detail wasn't really needed.

 

The lower the mil thickness the thinner the material and the harder to detect, but also provides less protection.

 

Check out this thread I started a while back:

http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4806

 

I'm pretty sure mine is 6 mil, look what happened this summer, the stuff does have it's limitations. The chips are both under the bra material and the bra does not appear compromised.

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Thanks for the input. The input will help me decide what to do. If I understand correctly, I should shop around instead of having the dealership do it. Go with the 6 mil rather than 12 mil. The DD I am thinking about is Jet Black. I am also concerned about prep work prior to installation. If there are swirls, they will been seen "forever"

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I absolutely love my 3M on the front end. I have definitely taken some hits on the front end with debris, rocks, or whatever and it's only messed with the 3M and not the paint! I think I am going to need to get it replaced eventually but it's much better than doing a paint job! :)

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It comes in 2 mil sizes. 6 mil and 12 mil. You want the 6 mil. Also beware that if you have a white vehicle you may see a color change after year or two. The adhesive is affected by the UV sunlight and will sometimes yellow. I have been throught this process with my white cars many times. Most companies warranty their product against this so I collected and had them redo it several times. The yellowing does not show on dark colors. Even with the yellowing problem I am still doing it to my Corvette, it is nice not to have to constantly touch up the front end with paint.

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Ouch! I paid 800 bucks and had all forward facing parts of my car done, including the lip infront of the rear wheels that flares out, and a piece on the rear bumper where people like to slide luggage... Oh and that was with a full 5 window tint. So I think it was 600 total for the clear.

 

It's the BOMB for a DD.

 

Chris

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