mc2hill

If you're looking for hydrophobic properties most premium antireflective coatings have a hydrophobic layer as part of the coating stack.

The top layer in the illustration above is both oleophobic (oil resistant) and hydrophobic (water resistant.) This makes lens cleaning so much easier than without it.
 
I forgot to mention before: If your lenses are mineral glass then you are good to go with using the Glass Sealant. Mineral glass lenses make up about 1% of the current market place. Knowing this is why I strongly recommend not using the Sealant on your Rx lenses since almost all of the lenses made today are a plastic material.
 
I am always happy to answer questions about eyeglasses, so feel free one and all to ask away by PM.

So I'm going to offer up a contest for the members here.

Tomorrow, I'm going to get the Camaro dynoed for my actual power numbers. So I'm going to offer up a gift certificate of Adam's products of $15 for HP and $15 for TQ.

You can guess the HP number and TQ number. CLOSEST to the exact number without going over will win. AND YOU ONLY GET ONE HP GUESS AND ONE TQ GUESS!!!

If you can guess correctly, BOTH the HP and TQ numbers exactly, you'll win a $50 gift certificate from me, for Adam's Polishes.

This contest starts RIGHT NOW and goes till midnight tomorrow.
 

Cool, haven't tried watches yet!
 
For fast relief of the "off-season detailing itch" I have found a variety of things to detail that has provided relief:
- kitchen counters (my mother in law was visiting once when I was using the Flex to polish the granite - the look on her face was priceless)
- kitchen appliances both large and small (toasters can be a fun challenge)
- any glass surface in or outside of the house, this includes shower enclosures, sliding glass doors, all house windows, tvs, computer screens, phone screens, glass decorating items, mirrors, picture glass -- but I stopped short of the drinking glasses
- stainless flatware can look brand new with a little detailing love, just be sure to clean well with soap and water after using MP
- chrome or polished faucets
- any reading glasses, RX glasses or sunglasses
- any hard surface floor, just be careful of using detail spray near a glossy type of floor surface - even just over spray from using detail spray on the refrigerator face can make the floor in front of the refrigerator treacherous
- back yard patio set
- electric company's transformer box in the yard
- lawn equipment - mowers, trimmers, etc
- vacuum cleaner - tons of parts to open and take apart, it will not only look better but it may also work better too!
- light switches - do you know how dirty and smudged these things get!?
- kitchen/bath sinks and tubs - amazing what some polishing can do to restore shine to tubs and sinks!
- utility sinks - one of the first things I cleaned after the detailing bug hit me a few years ago, wife thought I lost my mind when she found me working on the utility sink, but she was impressed with the end result
 
After re-reading my above list, I now realize why my wife likes to buy Adam's supplies for me... :-)
 
Anyhow, just some ideas for taking care of your detailing itch, once the itch returns after detailing your watch!

Revive after PFP can be heplful on dark cars.  Also you will find times when a very light polish is all that is needed, and it works great on shiny interior plastics.

Revive after PFP can be heplful on dark cars.  Also you will find times when a very light polish is all that is needed, and it works great on shiny interior plastics.

The handle on the Buttery hex is stiffer foam, the faces on both applicators are the same foam, different color.  I prefer the Buttery Hex as I have a little arthritis.

Took first place in my class in a recent custom car show in Boston last weekend.3 years in a row there with my 2007 Mustang GT with 2 first place finishes and a second place finish my first year there (did not have my trunk open at judging time so they deducted points for that and I lost first place by a half a point !! ). It is all Adams on my car. 2 step paint correction with a PC, Brilliant Glaze, 2 coats of Americana wax, SVRT, etc. So many people complemented on the paint, wondered where I got it painted. Did not believe that it was factory paint, but it is. Hats off to Adam and all his awesome products !!!!!!

Interesting Roger.  And I agree, I think she was 'steal worthy'! 
 
I, for one, would be interested know she fares with her singing going forward - maybe a "living dreams  through someone else" type thing.  
 
And thanks for your insights into the show.  We have been watching it from day one, and think it has the best format of the talent shows.  Although it does appear (as in Sam's case) that often the better singer does not always advance.  Have read several theories (the next morning!) about her competitor having so many social media followers swaying the choice.   

Interesting Roger.  And I agree, I think she was 'steal worthy'! 
 
I, for one, would be interested know she fares with her singing going forward - maybe a "living dreams  through someone else" type thing.  
 
And thanks for your insights into the show.  We have been watching it from day one, and think it has the best format of the talent shows.  Although it does appear (as in Sam's case) that often the better singer does not always advance.  Have read several theories (the next morning!) about her competitor having so many social media followers swaying the choice.   

With the 100 gram bars I usually start by tearing them in 1/2.  
 
As for how much you will need to use, like Randy and Gerry said, it depends on the condition of the paint.  Work a section of the car, then fold the clay to get a clean area of clay, and repeat.  Once the you can no longer find a clean section it is time to get a new piece of clay.  If the car is not too contaminated you could get several cars out of one bar.  But it is very contaminated, you may use both bars on one car.  The clay in the picture below was brand new when I started.  The car had a lot of overspray and took a whole 100 gram bar.
 
Save the 'dirty' clay for windows or wheels.  And if it falls on the ground, it goes in the trash!
 
 

The one Adam's used to carry IMO is better than the Gilmour in that the Foam is nicer, all cocktail mixtures being even.  It's called the Hydrofoamer.
http://www.amazon.com/Hydro-Systems-SP4191-Hydrofoamer-Kit/dp/B002J6FZRQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1396280877&sr=8-3&keywords=hydrofoamer

It should not take any pressure, more like wiping off DS.  The alcohol should dissolve the existing protection.  You can go over it a few times to be sure.  You could use Mineral Spirits too, but be sure it is marked 'odorless' and the "Percent Volatile"  is 100%.  And if it has not already been said, do this a panel at a time.
 
From a trusted source on a different detailing forum:
"If using IPA to remove previously applied wax or paint sealants, simply mist some of the IPA/Water onto the area to be checked and then spread around using a clean microfiber towel folded 4-ways. Work the product gently over the paint and then turn to a dry side and wipe till dry."

No grinding please!   
Spray the panel, wipe off.  Repeat on each panel.

It should not take any pressure, more like wiping off DS.  The alcohol should dissolve the existing protection.  You can go over it a few times to be sure.  You could use Mineral Spirits too, but be sure it is marked 'odorless' and the "Percent Volatile"  is 100%.  And if it has not already been said, do this a panel at a time.
 
From a trusted source on a different detailing forum:
"If using IPA to remove previously applied wax or paint sealants, simply mist some of the IPA/Water onto the area to be checked and then spread around using a clean microfiber towel folded 4-ways. Work the product gently over the paint and then turn to a dry side and wipe till dry."

Happy Birthday Nick!

Just got word that Sam's battle will air tomorrow (Monday) night.  Don't miss it!

These past two days had the TBSS garage queen getting a spring clean up. Yesterday it got a two bucket with Grit Gard wash using jumbo & small wash pads and Adam's Car Shampoo. I clayed the paint and glass then sealed the glass with Glass Sealant.  This morning I gave the paint two coats of Quick Sealant an hour apart. Wheels and trim got SVRT and the wheel wells got grape Koolaid. The interior got vacuumed then the carpet got cleaned with Carpet and Upholstery Cleaner.  My wife is very pleased to say the least.


I think she looks good for a 115,000 mile daily driven turned garage queen.

No grinding please!   
Spray the panel, wipe off.  Repeat on each panel.

The Italian made Rupes.

Polished and protected this BMW X5M and this Lexus Rx350
 

With the 100 gram bars I usually start by tearing them in 1/2.  
 
As for how much you will need to use, like Randy and Gerry said, it depends on the condition of the paint.  Work a section of the car, then fold the clay to get a clean area of clay, and repeat.  Once the you can no longer find a clean section it is time to get a new piece of clay.  If the car is not too contaminated you could get several cars out of one bar.  But it is very contaminated, you may use both bars on one car.  The clay in the picture below was brand new when I started.  The car had a lot of overspray and took a whole 100 gram bar.
 
Save the 'dirty' clay for windows or wheels.  And if it falls on the ground, it goes in the trash!
 
 

Hey everyone, I'm new here and to online forums in general so I'm not sure if someone has posted this before but I was just freezing my butt off in the cold looking at the window trim of my truck thinking how I'm going to tackle applying VRT to the trim without smearing it all over the paint and the window. I do believe this idea may be Nobel prize winning.
 
Use foam paint brushes. They come in many sizes and allow you to apply the VRT cleanly.
 
They also help with applying it to the running boards on my truck as the surface curls back up under the rockers. 
 
The only drawback to using these brushes is after a while of being saturated with whatever your using them for they will come off the handle and will be useless.
 
As I write this I can think of more and more area's these brushes can be used for and I plan on stocking up on foam brushes and add them to my kit.
 
Hope everyone finds this useful.
 

 

^ What Chris said!  

Protection time.  The Buttery will last a couple of months, while the Americana will last twice as long.  Not really a 'better' type thing, just a personal preference.  No need to use both at the same time, as they both do the same thing.   
 
  You can think of sealants as polymer waxes.  They do not contain the Carnuba that give waxes their 'deep' look, but the polymers can allow them to protect longer.  They work best on daily drivers. Sealants 'bond' with the paint vs. waxes that sit on top of the paint.   Many on AF apply LPS, then top that with BG and Americana.  You get the protection of the sealant and the look of wax.

I own both Buttery and Americana and as Michael said, you can expect a much longer life out of Americana. Americana gives you some more depth and shine too. Buttery also has some minor filling properties that can hide some scratches. 
 
And as far as sealants go, they are great to put on a daily driver, as they are going to last much longer than a wax. If your car sits outside for an extended period of time or isn't garaged, lay down a sealant such as Quick Sealant or Liquid Paint Sealant, before waxing your car. 
 
If you're going for the most insane protection and best shine, your plan of attack would be to lay down a layer of Liquid Paint Sealant, then glaze, then Americana.