LT1xL82

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Yes, the soaps used at the car wash can degrade your sealant.
 
Just bring your own Adam's Car Wash Shampoo, bucket, and wash pad. Use the Pay-N-Spray on the "Rinse" setting only, do a pre-rinse and fill your bucket, then hand wash just like you would at home. Finish by rinsing using the same "Rinse" setting.

Or use Rinsless Wash after knocking all the big stuff off with the rinse cycle.

An uncontaminated fine grade clay bar does not scratch glass.

Claying with a new uncontaminated clay bar will not scratch glass at all. 
 
Glass is extremely hard and the clay is not very aggressive at all. 
 
Now, if your clay became contaminated with some dirt, sand, etc, then yes, it is possibly to mar/scratch your glass.

I used my mitt this weekend and was pleased with the ease with which it knocked down the majority of the contamination on the car I was detailing. I used detail spray as the lubricant and then rinsed the mitt out every panel or so in a bucket with about a gallon of water and an ounce of rinseless. Turned the water the color of the clay but worked well to remove any contamination on the mitt.

how about an action shot of you in the Jeep!

Rich and Bob...I'll try to look you folks up. My wife and I will be there. We'll likely be found visiting friends at K48 & 49.

how about an action shot of you in the Jeep!

Just to be clear, your car was blue before using the blueberry DS, right?!
 
Either way, looks shiny!!!

Last nights dinner came out on point, clams, fish, shrimp in a nice broth, with some pasta!

I use HGG on mine, which are a bedliner-type material. HGG would also work good on plastic running boards.

Guys, this is not fishy or BS at all.
 
Once an order tag is printed, the order could be anywhere in the process/warehouse. It could be in the stack of tags, it could be on a cart getting items picked, or it could already be boxed up and on a pallet under other boxes. The orders are not tracked through the fulfillment process, so it would be a literal easter egg hunt to find it. Having someone in shipping spend time searching for an order, out of hundreds of orders on a given day, to add an item, could take a long time, and would slowdown processing on everyone else's order.
 
I know forgetting to add a product happens, I've done that myself more than once, but if the order has already started fullfillment, then you just have to get it on your next order.

In my opinion, vacuuming is the best way to clean the interior. While using a blower to blast stuff out of the car may work, I think it just creates a cloud of dust that gets into places I don't want it. For example, I don't want the dirt from the floor mats getting airborne and spread about the interior, onto the seats, into the crevices, into the headliner, etc, that just makes more mess and work to eventually clean those areas out. You may not notice a big issue the first few times, but I think regularly blowing is going to eventually result in dust build-up.
 
Same reason I vacuum the garage and not just hit it with the leaf blower. I want that dirt, dust, pollen and other crud gone, not made airborne to get into all the stuff in my garage, or onto my counters where I keep detailing products, bottles, and tools (not towels, those are safely stored in totes or cabinets).
 
While it might be useful to get certain areas like inside air vents, AFTER the main dirt and dust has been vacuumed, I think that it is not a good option to replace regular vacuuming.
 
I also avoid wiping dusty surfaces with ID or LC, since this can just push the dust into the cracks and crevices, resulting in build-up over time. I always vacuum first, then wipe down for additional cleaning and protection of the surfaces.
 
Also note that using a blower like the Sidekick may result in dirt getting into the foam air filter, which could end up then getting blasted onto your paint if you also use it for drying.

I have that unit, and have been using it for 3 years, and I would say YES, it is worth it.  I use mine for the entire wash on both vehicles, on my Dad's boat, and on the house windows. 
 
A deionizing filter means no drying with towels, you can wash in full sun, and you don't get water spots.  And no drying with towels means less chance for swirls.  I last polished my truck over two years ago, and it still looks amazing.  So just the time savings in not polishing once a year, makes it well worth the cost of the unit, and the resin.
 
I will also point out that even though you can leave a soaking wet vehicle out in the sun to air dry on not get hard water spots (ie minerals left behind from regular tap water), I did find early on that leaving that much water on the vehicle tends to collect airborne dust in the pooled water and water drops, which then can be seen later.  I also found that the water left in the nooks and crannies often contains soap residue, and having this drip out while it is drying results in visible drip-trails.  For this reason, I use the Master Blaster (and previously used the Sidekick), to get about 90% of the water off, and to blow out the nooks and crannies, then let the rest dry.
 
Only downside is the cost of the resin, but the resin cost has actually dropped in price since CR Spotless started their recycling program.
 
While I have not logged specific usage, I typically replace the resin about 2-3x per year, and that is using it on two vehicles.
 
This unit is fairly well built, but they have just released a newer version that is an improvement.  It has a more stable housing, and uses color-indicating resin so that you know when the filters are getting close to being spent, without having to check the meter.
 
If you are going to get one, get the newer version:
 
https://simplechuck.com/product/double-chuck-dark-blue/
 
There are additional considerations you should make before investing this amount of money.  First and foremost is to test you water, so you can see how hard it is.  Having fairly hard water (over 200ppm or so) increases you ongoing costs for resin.
 
You can read more in this post:
 
http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/27009-adamized-the-raptor/?p=440613

Now I'm concerned!

I had a dog that looked like that!

Dawn dish soap,walmart sponge and dry with bath towels!I don't think microfiber towels even existed then.
Hurts just thinking about it.

Do you zee, bruh?
 

I don't get how this is tolerated. How can this company get away without being on the hook to fix all the cars they are powder coating when the owner doesn't want it. If they walked up with a spray can it would be vandalism.

Baseballs in sauce?

Only very old Airstream trailers are bare aluminum.  In the mid-60's they started using a clear coat.  It is not the same type of clear coat as on a car.  So when the trailers are polished, they are actually polishing the clear coat, not the bare metal, hence the use of an abrasive polishing compound.
 
My guess is that your boat is bare metal, so you should test an inconspicuous area with Metal Polish on a rag, to see if it turns the rag black.
 
If the metal is bare, and you use Metal Polish, you will end up with a much shinier surface, but will have to polish all the aluminum to make it match.
 
Here are some pics of a pontoon boat that I worked on this last weekend:
 
BEFORE

 
 
DURING

 
 
AFTER

 
 
The aluminum was bare, and I polished it with Metal Polish #1, using a blue foam pad on a machine.  Be well advised that you will end up with thin, runny black liquid from the polishing, and it makes a huge mess.  If you are going to use a machine polisher, mask off anything that you don't want stained with black sling, and plan on spending more time cleaning up the black residue than you did polishing.  Machine polishing is the easy part, cleanup is more work.  Use cheap towels, as they will be stained.  I also found that drying out the pads with paper towels, to remove the runny, black liquid, helped reduce the sling or splatter.  I dried the pads after polishing every 2 feet of the pontoon.
 
My advice to you...try some Revive to hand polish the scuffed areas, and skip polishing the aluminum, unless you want to spend a couple days working on it.  If you do use Metal Polish with a machine, wear gloves and old clothes.  I also found out that Revive will remove any splatters from hard surfaces, like anodized aluminium rails, Dawn Dish soap will mostly clean the black off your skin.  I think that the black residue will permanently stain anything porous like the cover or seats.

People on this forum have been asking for one for years in multiple threads. It's not for everyone, video coming in the next few days once Joe is done editing the footage. 

So today I was finally able to try out adams Tire n Rubber Cleaner and the new wheel brush. Previously I had been using APC with a blue tire brush. Ive had really good luck with APC on the wheels and I was really curious to see if the new Tire n Rubber was really worth it since APC is still very versatile. Plus I have seen a few mixed reviews on which one is actually stronger. 
 
So I did a direct comparison on one of my trucks wheels. I wash the wheels every time I wash the truck, but I havent washed the truck in a while, so they should be extra dirty. 
 
On the left, I used the new Tire n Rubber cleaner, and on the right, I used good ole APC.

 
This is what I started with. It doesnt look so dirty, but looks can be deceiving.

 
I sprayed the left down with the Tire cleaner, and right with APC. I sprayed an even amount on each side. I didnt really notice any difference by just spraying them. They almost looked the same on both sides.

 
However, once I started scrubbing, thats when I started seeing more of a difference. The Tire cleaner seemed to foam and stick more than the APC. It turned into a brownish foam color just like in adams video. The APC doesnt foam up much.
 
As far as the brushes go, I noticed the new dark red brush would fling a lot more than the blue one. I would figure it would be the opposite because the blue one is firmer. But besides flinging more dirt, it also felt easier to work with because you dont have to scrub as hard as you do with the blue brush. I really like the new brush.

 
When I finished scrubbing, I started hosing them down, and thats where I saw the biggest difference between the two. The left side dropped a whole lot more dirt than the right side with APC. The difference is very noticeable in this pic.

 
Once i finished, I got one of my old dirty towels, and gently passed it through both sides while the wheel was still a bit wet. The pics didnt come out that good right here tho.
 
This was the left side with Tire n Rubber cleaner.

 
And this is the right with APC

Couldnt get a good focus.
 
The new Tire & Rubber Cleaner definitely cleaned the wheel much better. Eventually, I went back and did the whole wheel with TnR Cleaner. Some dirt still came out from the right side.
 
Im really glad that Adams team is not only making new stuff with minimal changes to sell more, but they actually make good products with big improvements. Im still not going to stop buying All Purpose Cleaner because its still great to clean out foam pads and other things around the house, but for my wheels, im sticking with the new Tire and Rubber Cleaner. I hope this can help others decide between which product to use.