flyboy9994

Offshore Helicopter Pilot in support of the natural gas/oil industry. Times are kind of lean right now. I'm one of the few people who DON'T like low oil prices!
 

Wow. Talk about perfect timing. Haven't been here for a couple of months and I was shocked at all the new products.
 
Well, I did a full correction on my new Camaro a couple of months ago and was shocked at the results (in a good way). Also tried to correct my girlfriend's car, a heavily oxidized 2010 Toyota Corolla. I only own the Porter Cable which didn't perform as well as I needed as it didn't get all the swirls out of the Camaro and barely put any shine on girlfriends car. Didn't know this but Toyota used a single stage paint on many of their vehicles. Mostly white I believe. Really hope I can save it but it's pretty bad. If you own an older Toyota, definitely keep it waxed/sealed.
 
Anyway, I didn't want to spend the big bucks on a Rupes so the Swirl Killer looks perfect. Probably get used 3 or 4 times a year. Just ordered it along with heavy correcting polish and a bunch of pads. I'll do a write-up on girlfriend's car, hopefully next week. Wish me luck!
 
P.S. I think I'll convert Porter Cable into 4" polisher for headlamps, tight areas etc.

Wow. Talk about perfect timing. Haven't been here for a couple of months and I was shocked at all the new products.
 
Well, I did a full correction on my new Camaro a couple of months ago and was shocked at the results (in a good way). Also tried to correct my girlfriend's car, a heavily oxidized 2010 Toyota Corolla. I only own the Porter Cable which didn't perform as well as I needed as it didn't get all the swirls out of the Camaro and barely put any shine on girlfriends car. Didn't know this but Toyota used a single stage paint on many of their vehicles. Mostly white I believe. Really hope I can save it but it's pretty bad. If you own an older Toyota, definitely keep it waxed/sealed.
 
Anyway, I didn't want to spend the big bucks on a Rupes so the Swirl Killer looks perfect. Probably get used 3 or 4 times a year. Just ordered it along with heavy correcting polish and a bunch of pads. I'll do a write-up on girlfriend's car, hopefully next week. Wish me luck!
 
P.S. I think I'll convert Porter Cable into 4" polisher for headlamps, tight areas etc.

Wow. Talk about perfect timing. Haven't been here for a couple of months and I was shocked at all the new products.
 
Well, I did a full correction on my new Camaro a couple of months ago and was shocked at the results (in a good way). Also tried to correct my girlfriend's car, a heavily oxidized 2010 Toyota Corolla. I only own the Porter Cable which didn't perform as well as I needed as it didn't get all the swirls out of the Camaro and barely put any shine on girlfriends car. Didn't know this but Toyota used a single stage paint on many of their vehicles. Mostly white I believe. Really hope I can save it but it's pretty bad. If you own an older Toyota, definitely keep it waxed/sealed.
 
Anyway, I didn't want to spend the big bucks on a Rupes so the Swirl Killer looks perfect. Probably get used 3 or 4 times a year. Just ordered it along with heavy correcting polish and a bunch of pads. I'll do a write-up on girlfriend's car, hopefully next week. Wish me luck!
 
P.S. I think I'll convert Porter Cable into 4" polisher for headlamps, tight areas etc.

I wanted to put my 2 cents in on the new Adam's Swirl Killer:
 
 
 For the past few months I've been using/beta testing this machine and have performed numerous mulit-stage paint corrections with it. I am a professional detailer.  You can find pretty much every machine made in my arsenal. 
 
Some observations:
 
The Swirl Killer is well made.  It has a very nice 'feel' to it.  It is very balanced.  The vibration(s) are much less than the PC or Griot's PC type machines.  It is a 15mm long throw...this assists in 'faster' correction on a larger work area.  The power cord is very long and useful; I did not even need an extension cord to work around an average sized vehicle. 
 
Power:  Plenty!  That being said, the long throw polishers have a tendency to 'stall' on curves.  You will experience this with this machine as well...you will need to learn and adjust your technique accordingly to overcome this and keep correcting/polishing.  I found myself running it on speeds 4+ for the heavy correction portion and then lower speeds for my final polishing.
 
Noise:  not bad for a polisher!  And I was running it in the upper speeds/wide open for some time. 
 
Yes, it is made in China.  No, I do not consider that a major negative.  For the price it's an extremely capable machine and to me seems/works/feels like a 'professional' model. The 1 year warranty would not be an issue for me either.  For the targeted audience (non-professionals), I feel that the Swirl Killer is an excellent value to step up your detailing game with a 15mm long throw machine.
 
Scott Harle
Owner and master detailer
Autodermatology
Naples, FL
 

Numerous negative posts in this thread have been hidden until they can be reviewed with Adam.
 
The negativity and criticizing are detracting from the purpose of this thread, which is to get questions answered about this new polisher.
 
The fact that it is made in China was stated in the first post, and on the product page.  This was made clear right from the start, so that if this does not fit your viewpoint, then you can choose not to purchase it.

Well, it took me 10 months but I finally got the chance to do a full correction on my 2015 Camaro SS. If I knew now what a huge difference it makes, I definitely wouldn't have waited so long. I'm hooked now.
 
I've been using Adam's products for the 10 months I've owned the car to provide protection until I could get around to a full correction. Mostly H20 GG and a few applications of Buttery and of course lot's of detail spray. I was hooked immediately on how great everything worked. When I finally got around to buying some double soft towels, I was horrified when I was wiping down my car and the finish was so full of crap that it was literally grabbing fibers from the double soft towels. Baggie test confirmed my worst fears. Keep in mind this was a new car at the time but it was really late in the model year and I'm sure this car sat on the lot for several months. Not to mention it was obviously washed via the dealer method: mop bucket, cheap soap and broom/brush used to wash several cars on the lot. Definitely had the dealer installed swirl package! This whole process took 2 1/2 days since it's still super hot in Florida and I could only stand it in my garage until about 11 a.m. With cooler weather, I could do this in one day (probably a long 10 hour day).
 
OK, here's the rundown: Started with a good rinse and then full hose down of Strip Wash in a foam gun. Proceeded with two bucket wash with more strip wash. Went over car twice with Strip Wash to make sure everything was gone. Water sheeted readily with no beading. It was squeaky clean.
 
Pulled car in garage while still wet and proceeded to clay entire car with detail spray to include glass. Clay bar was almost black when I got done. Unbelievable how much trash was in the paint. It literally felt like sandpaper and it was easy to tell that the clay bar was doing it's job as it would smooth out noticeably after a few passes.
 
Paint Correcting Polish applied with orange pad and Porter Cable 7424. Used the orange microfiber pad on trunk lid. The Camaro holds water on the trunk lid and there was some major water spots. Really surprised at how tough they were to remove.
 
Paint Finishing Polish with white buffing pad. Again, using the Porter Cable.
 
OK, so now the paint is completely naked and I'm getting ready to apply Liquid Paint Sealant but I got to thinking about all the detail spray I used during the polishing process. I used it to prime the polishing pads and also to wipe down as I went along. I actually called Adam's and talked to Dan and we discussed that there is a slight amount of carnauba wax in Detail Spray but it shouldn't be a problem with the LPS adhering to the paint. Well, my OCD got the better of me so I wiped down the entire car with Waterless Wash (old clear/blue kind with no polymers) hoping to get the paint perfectly clean. Then LPS was applied, allowed to flash for 30 minutes and wiped off. After 1 hour of curing time, I applied a second coat of LPS, let flash and removed. By this time it was getting way too hot in the garage so I called it a day and let the car sit overnight.
 
Next morning I carefully wiped car down with detail spray to remove any dust and proceeded with one of my favorites: Brilliant Glaze. OK, now the results are really starting to show. I don't know what's in this stuff but it floors me every time I use it.
 
Then came the Patriot!  This can almost be described as a sensual experience wiping this stuff off as it begin to reveal the fruits of all my labor. I was completely blown away to see what a huge difference a full correction made. Now I could see what the big deal is. The shine is absolutely stunning and the following pics do absolutely no justice whatsoever. I'm completely hooked and will make a supreme effort to do this twice a year. The only downside with this process is that I don't want to drive my car... ever... The thought of bugs or a nasty bird bomb haunts me in my sleep.
 
Anyway, just do it!
 
P.S. the Porter Cable was perfectly adequate but I'm definitely buying a Rupes for the next one.
 




 
 
 

Well, it took me 10 months but I finally got the chance to do a full correction on my 2015 Camaro SS. If I knew now what a huge difference it makes, I definitely wouldn't have waited so long. I'm hooked now.
 
I've been using Adam's products for the 10 months I've owned the car to provide protection until I could get around to a full correction. Mostly H20 GG and a few applications of Buttery and of course lot's of detail spray. I was hooked immediately on how great everything worked. When I finally got around to buying some double soft towels, I was horrified when I was wiping down my car and the finish was so full of crap that it was literally grabbing fibers from the double soft towels. Baggie test confirmed my worst fears. Keep in mind this was a new car at the time but it was really late in the model year and I'm sure this car sat on the lot for several months. Not to mention it was obviously washed via the dealer method: mop bucket, cheap soap and broom/brush used to wash several cars on the lot. Definitely had the dealer installed swirl package! This whole process took 2 1/2 days since it's still super hot in Florida and I could only stand it in my garage until about 11 a.m. With cooler weather, I could do this in one day (probably a long 10 hour day).
 
OK, here's the rundown: Started with a good rinse and then full hose down of Strip Wash in a foam gun. Proceeded with two bucket wash with more strip wash. Went over car twice with Strip Wash to make sure everything was gone. Water sheeted readily with no beading. It was squeaky clean.
 
Pulled car in garage while still wet and proceeded to clay entire car with detail spray to include glass. Clay bar was almost black when I got done. Unbelievable how much trash was in the paint. It literally felt like sandpaper and it was easy to tell that the clay bar was doing it's job as it would smooth out noticeably after a few passes.
 
Paint Correcting Polish applied with orange pad and Porter Cable 7424. Used the orange microfiber pad on trunk lid. The Camaro holds water on the trunk lid and there was some major water spots. Really surprised at how tough they were to remove.
 
Paint Finishing Polish with white buffing pad. Again, using the Porter Cable.
 
OK, so now the paint is completely naked and I'm getting ready to apply Liquid Paint Sealant but I got to thinking about all the detail spray I used during the polishing process. I used it to prime the polishing pads and also to wipe down as I went along. I actually called Adam's and talked to Dan and we discussed that there is a slight amount of carnauba wax in Detail Spray but it shouldn't be a problem with the LPS adhering to the paint. Well, my OCD got the better of me so I wiped down the entire car with Waterless Wash (old clear/blue kind with no polymers) hoping to get the paint perfectly clean. Then LPS was applied, allowed to flash for 30 minutes and wiped off. After 1 hour of curing time, I applied a second coat of LPS, let flash and removed. By this time it was getting way too hot in the garage so I called it a day and let the car sit overnight.
 
Next morning I carefully wiped car down with detail spray to remove any dust and proceeded with one of my favorites: Brilliant Glaze. OK, now the results are really starting to show. I don't know what's in this stuff but it floors me every time I use it.
 
Then came the Patriot!  This can almost be described as a sensual experience wiping this stuff off as it begin to reveal the fruits of all my labor. I was completely blown away to see what a huge difference a full correction made. Now I could see what the big deal is. The shine is absolutely stunning and the following pics do absolutely no justice whatsoever. I'm completely hooked and will make a supreme effort to do this twice a year. The only downside with this process is that I don't want to drive my car... ever... The thought of bugs or a nasty bird bomb haunts me in my sleep.
 
Anyway, just do it!
 
P.S. the Porter Cable was perfectly adequate but I'm definitely buying a Rupes for the next one.
 




 
 
 

Well, it took me 10 months but I finally got the chance to do a full correction on my 2015 Camaro SS. If I knew now what a huge difference it makes, I definitely wouldn't have waited so long. I'm hooked now.
 
I've been using Adam's products for the 10 months I've owned the car to provide protection until I could get around to a full correction. Mostly H20 GG and a few applications of Buttery and of course lot's of detail spray. I was hooked immediately on how great everything worked. When I finally got around to buying some double soft towels, I was horrified when I was wiping down my car and the finish was so full of crap that it was literally grabbing fibers from the double soft towels. Baggie test confirmed my worst fears. Keep in mind this was a new car at the time but it was really late in the model year and I'm sure this car sat on the lot for several months. Not to mention it was obviously washed via the dealer method: mop bucket, cheap soap and broom/brush used to wash several cars on the lot. Definitely had the dealer installed swirl package! This whole process took 2 1/2 days since it's still super hot in Florida and I could only stand it in my garage until about 11 a.m. With cooler weather, I could do this in one day (probably a long 10 hour day).
 
OK, here's the rundown: Started with a good rinse and then full hose down of Strip Wash in a foam gun. Proceeded with two bucket wash with more strip wash. Went over car twice with Strip Wash to make sure everything was gone. Water sheeted readily with no beading. It was squeaky clean.
 
Pulled car in garage while still wet and proceeded to clay entire car with detail spray to include glass. Clay bar was almost black when I got done. Unbelievable how much trash was in the paint. It literally felt like sandpaper and it was easy to tell that the clay bar was doing it's job as it would smooth out noticeably after a few passes.
 
Paint Correcting Polish applied with orange pad and Porter Cable 7424. Used the orange microfiber pad on trunk lid. The Camaro holds water on the trunk lid and there was some major water spots. Really surprised at how tough they were to remove.
 
Paint Finishing Polish with white buffing pad. Again, using the Porter Cable.
 
OK, so now the paint is completely naked and I'm getting ready to apply Liquid Paint Sealant but I got to thinking about all the detail spray I used during the polishing process. I used it to prime the polishing pads and also to wipe down as I went along. I actually called Adam's and talked to Dan and we discussed that there is a slight amount of carnauba wax in Detail Spray but it shouldn't be a problem with the LPS adhering to the paint. Well, my OCD got the better of me so I wiped down the entire car with Waterless Wash (old clear/blue kind with no polymers) hoping to get the paint perfectly clean. Then LPS was applied, allowed to flash for 30 minutes and wiped off. After 1 hour of curing time, I applied a second coat of LPS, let flash and removed. By this time it was getting way too hot in the garage so I called it a day and let the car sit overnight.
 
Next morning I carefully wiped car down with detail spray to remove any dust and proceeded with one of my favorites: Brilliant Glaze. OK, now the results are really starting to show. I don't know what's in this stuff but it floors me every time I use it.
 
Then came the Patriot!  This can almost be described as a sensual experience wiping this stuff off as it begin to reveal the fruits of all my labor. I was completely blown away to see what a huge difference a full correction made. Now I could see what the big deal is. The shine is absolutely stunning and the following pics do absolutely no justice whatsoever. I'm completely hooked and will make a supreme effort to do this twice a year. The only downside with this process is that I don't want to drive my car... ever... The thought of bugs or a nasty bird bomb haunts me in my sleep.
 
Anyway, just do it!
 
P.S. the Porter Cable was perfectly adequate but I'm definitely buying a Rupes for the next one.
 




 
 
 

Well, it took me 10 months but I finally got the chance to do a full correction on my 2015 Camaro SS. If I knew now what a huge difference it makes, I definitely wouldn't have waited so long. I'm hooked now.
 
I've been using Adam's products for the 10 months I've owned the car to provide protection until I could get around to a full correction. Mostly H20 GG and a few applications of Buttery and of course lot's of detail spray. I was hooked immediately on how great everything worked. When I finally got around to buying some double soft towels, I was horrified when I was wiping down my car and the finish was so full of crap that it was literally grabbing fibers from the double soft towels. Baggie test confirmed my worst fears. Keep in mind this was a new car at the time but it was really late in the model year and I'm sure this car sat on the lot for several months. Not to mention it was obviously washed via the dealer method: mop bucket, cheap soap and broom/brush used to wash several cars on the lot. Definitely had the dealer installed swirl package! This whole process took 2 1/2 days since it's still super hot in Florida and I could only stand it in my garage until about 11 a.m. With cooler weather, I could do this in one day (probably a long 10 hour day).
 
OK, here's the rundown: Started with a good rinse and then full hose down of Strip Wash in a foam gun. Proceeded with two bucket wash with more strip wash. Went over car twice with Strip Wash to make sure everything was gone. Water sheeted readily with no beading. It was squeaky clean.
 
Pulled car in garage while still wet and proceeded to clay entire car with detail spray to include glass. Clay bar was almost black when I got done. Unbelievable how much trash was in the paint. It literally felt like sandpaper and it was easy to tell that the clay bar was doing it's job as it would smooth out noticeably after a few passes.
 
Paint Correcting Polish applied with orange pad and Porter Cable 7424. Used the orange microfiber pad on trunk lid. The Camaro holds water on the trunk lid and there was some major water spots. Really surprised at how tough they were to remove.
 
Paint Finishing Polish with white buffing pad. Again, using the Porter Cable.
 
OK, so now the paint is completely naked and I'm getting ready to apply Liquid Paint Sealant but I got to thinking about all the detail spray I used during the polishing process. I used it to prime the polishing pads and also to wipe down as I went along. I actually called Adam's and talked to Dan and we discussed that there is a slight amount of carnauba wax in Detail Spray but it shouldn't be a problem with the LPS adhering to the paint. Well, my OCD got the better of me so I wiped down the entire car with Waterless Wash (old clear/blue kind with no polymers) hoping to get the paint perfectly clean. Then LPS was applied, allowed to flash for 30 minutes and wiped off. After 1 hour of curing time, I applied a second coat of LPS, let flash and removed. By this time it was getting way too hot in the garage so I called it a day and let the car sit overnight.
 
Next morning I carefully wiped car down with detail spray to remove any dust and proceeded with one of my favorites: Brilliant Glaze. OK, now the results are really starting to show. I don't know what's in this stuff but it floors me every time I use it.
 
Then came the Patriot!  This can almost be described as a sensual experience wiping this stuff off as it begin to reveal the fruits of all my labor. I was completely blown away to see what a huge difference a full correction made. Now I could see what the big deal is. The shine is absolutely stunning and the following pics do absolutely no justice whatsoever. I'm completely hooked and will make a supreme effort to do this twice a year. The only downside with this process is that I don't want to drive my car... ever... The thought of bugs or a nasty bird bomb haunts me in my sleep.
 
Anyway, just do it!
 
P.S. the Porter Cable was perfectly adequate but I'm definitely buying a Rupes for the next one.
 




 
 
 

Well, it took me 10 months but I finally got the chance to do a full correction on my 2015 Camaro SS. If I knew now what a huge difference it makes, I definitely wouldn't have waited so long. I'm hooked now.
 
I've been using Adam's products for the 10 months I've owned the car to provide protection until I could get around to a full correction. Mostly H20 GG and a few applications of Buttery and of course lot's of detail spray. I was hooked immediately on how great everything worked. When I finally got around to buying some double soft towels, I was horrified when I was wiping down my car and the finish was so full of crap that it was literally grabbing fibers from the double soft towels. Baggie test confirmed my worst fears. Keep in mind this was a new car at the time but it was really late in the model year and I'm sure this car sat on the lot for several months. Not to mention it was obviously washed via the dealer method: mop bucket, cheap soap and broom/brush used to wash several cars on the lot. Definitely had the dealer installed swirl package! This whole process took 2 1/2 days since it's still super hot in Florida and I could only stand it in my garage until about 11 a.m. With cooler weather, I could do this in one day (probably a long 10 hour day).
 
OK, here's the rundown: Started with a good rinse and then full hose down of Strip Wash in a foam gun. Proceeded with two bucket wash with more strip wash. Went over car twice with Strip Wash to make sure everything was gone. Water sheeted readily with no beading. It was squeaky clean.
 
Pulled car in garage while still wet and proceeded to clay entire car with detail spray to include glass. Clay bar was almost black when I got done. Unbelievable how much trash was in the paint. It literally felt like sandpaper and it was easy to tell that the clay bar was doing it's job as it would smooth out noticeably after a few passes.
 
Paint Correcting Polish applied with orange pad and Porter Cable 7424. Used the orange microfiber pad on trunk lid. The Camaro holds water on the trunk lid and there was some major water spots. Really surprised at how tough they were to remove.
 
Paint Finishing Polish with white buffing pad. Again, using the Porter Cable.
 
OK, so now the paint is completely naked and I'm getting ready to apply Liquid Paint Sealant but I got to thinking about all the detail spray I used during the polishing process. I used it to prime the polishing pads and also to wipe down as I went along. I actually called Adam's and talked to Dan and we discussed that there is a slight amount of carnauba wax in Detail Spray but it shouldn't be a problem with the LPS adhering to the paint. Well, my OCD got the better of me so I wiped down the entire car with Waterless Wash (old clear/blue kind with no polymers) hoping to get the paint perfectly clean. Then LPS was applied, allowed to flash for 30 minutes and wiped off. After 1 hour of curing time, I applied a second coat of LPS, let flash and removed. By this time it was getting way too hot in the garage so I called it a day and let the car sit overnight.
 
Next morning I carefully wiped car down with detail spray to remove any dust and proceeded with one of my favorites: Brilliant Glaze. OK, now the results are really starting to show. I don't know what's in this stuff but it floors me every time I use it.
 
Then came the Patriot!  This can almost be described as a sensual experience wiping this stuff off as it begin to reveal the fruits of all my labor. I was completely blown away to see what a huge difference a full correction made. Now I could see what the big deal is. The shine is absolutely stunning and the following pics do absolutely no justice whatsoever. I'm completely hooked and will make a supreme effort to do this twice a year. The only downside with this process is that I don't want to drive my car... ever... The thought of bugs or a nasty bird bomb haunts me in my sleep.
 
Anyway, just do it!
 
P.S. the Porter Cable was perfectly adequate but I'm definitely buying a Rupes for the next one.
 




 
 
 

Well, it took me 10 months but I finally got the chance to do a full correction on my 2015 Camaro SS. If I knew now what a huge difference it makes, I definitely wouldn't have waited so long. I'm hooked now.
 
I've been using Adam's products for the 10 months I've owned the car to provide protection until I could get around to a full correction. Mostly H20 GG and a few applications of Buttery and of course lot's of detail spray. I was hooked immediately on how great everything worked. When I finally got around to buying some double soft towels, I was horrified when I was wiping down my car and the finish was so full of crap that it was literally grabbing fibers from the double soft towels. Baggie test confirmed my worst fears. Keep in mind this was a new car at the time but it was really late in the model year and I'm sure this car sat on the lot for several months. Not to mention it was obviously washed via the dealer method: mop bucket, cheap soap and broom/brush used to wash several cars on the lot. Definitely had the dealer installed swirl package! This whole process took 2 1/2 days since it's still super hot in Florida and I could only stand it in my garage until about 11 a.m. With cooler weather, I could do this in one day (probably a long 10 hour day).
 
OK, here's the rundown: Started with a good rinse and then full hose down of Strip Wash in a foam gun. Proceeded with two bucket wash with more strip wash. Went over car twice with Strip Wash to make sure everything was gone. Water sheeted readily with no beading. It was squeaky clean.
 
Pulled car in garage while still wet and proceeded to clay entire car with detail spray to include glass. Clay bar was almost black when I got done. Unbelievable how much trash was in the paint. It literally felt like sandpaper and it was easy to tell that the clay bar was doing it's job as it would smooth out noticeably after a few passes.
 
Paint Correcting Polish applied with orange pad and Porter Cable 7424. Used the orange microfiber pad on trunk lid. The Camaro holds water on the trunk lid and there was some major water spots. Really surprised at how tough they were to remove.
 
Paint Finishing Polish with white buffing pad. Again, using the Porter Cable.
 
OK, so now the paint is completely naked and I'm getting ready to apply Liquid Paint Sealant but I got to thinking about all the detail spray I used during the polishing process. I used it to prime the polishing pads and also to wipe down as I went along. I actually called Adam's and talked to Dan and we discussed that there is a slight amount of carnauba wax in Detail Spray but it shouldn't be a problem with the LPS adhering to the paint. Well, my OCD got the better of me so I wiped down the entire car with Waterless Wash (old clear/blue kind with no polymers) hoping to get the paint perfectly clean. Then LPS was applied, allowed to flash for 30 minutes and wiped off. After 1 hour of curing time, I applied a second coat of LPS, let flash and removed. By this time it was getting way too hot in the garage so I called it a day and let the car sit overnight.
 
Next morning I carefully wiped car down with detail spray to remove any dust and proceeded with one of my favorites: Brilliant Glaze. OK, now the results are really starting to show. I don't know what's in this stuff but it floors me every time I use it.
 
Then came the Patriot!  This can almost be described as a sensual experience wiping this stuff off as it begin to reveal the fruits of all my labor. I was completely blown away to see what a huge difference a full correction made. Now I could see what the big deal is. The shine is absolutely stunning and the following pics do absolutely no justice whatsoever. I'm completely hooked and will make a supreme effort to do this twice a year. The only downside with this process is that I don't want to drive my car... ever... The thought of bugs or a nasty bird bomb haunts me in my sleep.
 
Anyway, just do it!
 
P.S. the Porter Cable was perfectly adequate but I'm definitely buying a Rupes for the next one.
 




 
 
 

Well, it took me 10 months but I finally got the chance to do a full correction on my 2015 Camaro SS. If I knew now what a huge difference it makes, I definitely wouldn't have waited so long. I'm hooked now.
 
I've been using Adam's products for the 10 months I've owned the car to provide protection until I could get around to a full correction. Mostly H20 GG and a few applications of Buttery and of course lot's of detail spray. I was hooked immediately on how great everything worked. When I finally got around to buying some double soft towels, I was horrified when I was wiping down my car and the finish was so full of crap that it was literally grabbing fibers from the double soft towels. Baggie test confirmed my worst fears. Keep in mind this was a new car at the time but it was really late in the model year and I'm sure this car sat on the lot for several months. Not to mention it was obviously washed via the dealer method: mop bucket, cheap soap and broom/brush used to wash several cars on the lot. Definitely had the dealer installed swirl package! This whole process took 2 1/2 days since it's still super hot in Florida and I could only stand it in my garage until about 11 a.m. With cooler weather, I could do this in one day (probably a long 10 hour day).
 
OK, here's the rundown: Started with a good rinse and then full hose down of Strip Wash in a foam gun. Proceeded with two bucket wash with more strip wash. Went over car twice with Strip Wash to make sure everything was gone. Water sheeted readily with no beading. It was squeaky clean.
 
Pulled car in garage while still wet and proceeded to clay entire car with detail spray to include glass. Clay bar was almost black when I got done. Unbelievable how much trash was in the paint. It literally felt like sandpaper and it was easy to tell that the clay bar was doing it's job as it would smooth out noticeably after a few passes.
 
Paint Correcting Polish applied with orange pad and Porter Cable 7424. Used the orange microfiber pad on trunk lid. The Camaro holds water on the trunk lid and there was some major water spots. Really surprised at how tough they were to remove.
 
Paint Finishing Polish with white buffing pad. Again, using the Porter Cable.
 
OK, so now the paint is completely naked and I'm getting ready to apply Liquid Paint Sealant but I got to thinking about all the detail spray I used during the polishing process. I used it to prime the polishing pads and also to wipe down as I went along. I actually called Adam's and talked to Dan and we discussed that there is a slight amount of carnauba wax in Detail Spray but it shouldn't be a problem with the LPS adhering to the paint. Well, my OCD got the better of me so I wiped down the entire car with Waterless Wash (old clear/blue kind with no polymers) hoping to get the paint perfectly clean. Then LPS was applied, allowed to flash for 30 minutes and wiped off. After 1 hour of curing time, I applied a second coat of LPS, let flash and removed. By this time it was getting way too hot in the garage so I called it a day and let the car sit overnight.
 
Next morning I carefully wiped car down with detail spray to remove any dust and proceeded with one of my favorites: Brilliant Glaze. OK, now the results are really starting to show. I don't know what's in this stuff but it floors me every time I use it.
 
Then came the Patriot!  This can almost be described as a sensual experience wiping this stuff off as it begin to reveal the fruits of all my labor. I was completely blown away to see what a huge difference a full correction made. Now I could see what the big deal is. The shine is absolutely stunning and the following pics do absolutely no justice whatsoever. I'm completely hooked and will make a supreme effort to do this twice a year. The only downside with this process is that I don't want to drive my car... ever... The thought of bugs or a nasty bird bomb haunts me in my sleep.
 
Anyway, just do it!
 
P.S. the Porter Cable was perfectly adequate but I'm definitely buying a Rupes for the next one.
 




 
 
 

Can you explain what "little bumps in the clear coat" mean? Do you think it's overspray or actual trash in the clear coat that may have settled on the car while the clear coat was still wet?
 
Overspray should come off during the clay bar process but if its trash in the clear coat, it my require wet sanding.

Can you explain what "little bumps in the clear coat" mean? Do you think it's overspray or actual trash in the clear coat that may have settled on the car while the clear coat was still wet?
 
Overspray should come off during the clay bar process but if its trash in the clear coat, it my require wet sanding.

Bump (this is a great idea)

I was also concerned about the prices when I first started using Adam's. Who in their right mind would drop hundreds of dollars on car wax and cleaners etc? Well, about a cool 1K later (yeah I've probably spent close to a grand) I'm pretty much a customer for life. Every product I've tried simply blows me away. There is obviously a LOT of research and development that goes into these products. Worth every penny to me.
 
Now where's my H2O??? Must... detail...

Amazes me every time how much the metallic comes through on a well corrected clear coat. Love it. Good job.

Just one more suggestion: Brilliant Glaze! Stuff goes on/off super easy. You will be shocked by the results!
 
Awesome job by the way. Makes me feel guilty for not doing mine yet.

Yeah... I'm totally in love with this stuff. I would recommend starting with the 16 oz. and try it to make sure you like it first. I can't imagine why but some people don't care for H2O.
 
If you already have a good paint sealant (Liquid Paint Sealant?) as a base than you shouldn't need to apply it much more than once a month or every third or fourth wash or so. I personally used it for two washes in a row to establish a good layer and it worked really well. Now I use it once a month but it's hard to resist how easy it is to apply so sometimes more than that. I mean you have to dry the car anyway right? All it takes is a spritz or two per panel and dry it off... Done! Stuff is amazing.
 
Throw a coat of Brilliant Glaze on top of the H2O and I swear it looks like somebody poured liquid glass on my car!

I think you have a good plan but for a daily driver I would seriously consider Liquid Paint Sealant (LPS) after any correction work with H2O G&G as a once monthly sealant "booster". This is the most popular method and seems to provide the most protection.
 
For extra shine consider any of the waxes (Buttery, Patriot, Americana etc.). Also Brilliant Glaze is unbelievable stuff. I tried it for the first time recently and it looked like liquid glass when I was done!
 
Wait 30 mins. to an hour after Liquid Paint Sealant to give it time to cure before you top coat it with a wax or glaze. Some people also do an additional coat of LPS with good results.
 
I like to Detail Spray the whole car when I'm done with everything.

I recently installed a Strongway hose reel. Very sturdy. I am using a Craftsman 75' black rubber hose and thumb-lever Gilmour nozzle.

Now that's some good stuff right there! Awesome. Very much appreciated.

I use it because I have a crew cab long bed 3/4 ton truck that takes some time to get through a full wash so by the end, the soap has settled some and becomes less 'slick'.  The Rinseless Wash adds a lot of lubricity and keeps the Wash Pads gliding across the paint very well.  Also, Car Shampoo does not contain any wax additives but the Rinseless Wash does so even after washing it leaves behind a finish already similar to finishing with detail spray.  
 
I also use a variety of Rinseless Wash dilutions for pre-soak treatment, waterless wash spray, and clay lube.  Rinseless wash is a very versatile product and I use it for just about everything but actually Rinseless Washing the truck.
 
Check out the file I have attached for some useful dilutions with Rinseless Wash and I think you will be happy with it's performance.  It can really go a long way and is a very cost effective product.
Dilution Ratios.pdf

I love my trim and lug nut brush. Mine seems very durable. I actually use it to apply tire shine on my tires. The foam block doesn't really work to well on my truck tires. I'm pretty rough on it and it has lasted me a year and is still in great shape.