falcaineer

right on *Thought about "right turn" but that could've turned into an infinite loop with @67's and @blcksilv08 😊

Here's that thread. Nothing since July, but about 2/3 of voters said they'd use it. Anything new, @Kyle@Adams?

Cool! Yeah, it's straightforward, but there may be instructions for the tips. Good deal for you!

First, welcome! Recommend you give them a call directly to discuss potential distributorship. 866-965-0400. Good luck! P.S. Nice lookin' ride!

Actually, I can't see the small tube that connects the water and soap to the gun portion. I see the tips, though, at the base of the canister.

Looks like everything to me except maybe instructions.

lot premium

Andrew has you covered. For future reference, there's a whole thread dedicated to these sorts of things. Feel free to post there anytime! 😂

train car

Several differences. The Eco version has no iron activator, an eco-friendly formula, and a MUCH better smell are a few. More can be found on the product page: https://adamspolishes.com/shop/exterior/wheels-tires/adam-s-eco-wheel-cleaner-16oz.html

I've had it happen with normal DS, too, and that was the carnuba. Wouldn't be surprised if the flavored ones are a combo of the carnuba and flavor/scent additives. As you've said, good shake and back to normal. BTW, the new HGG doesn't separate near as much, if at all, like the old formula.

The furnace has been acting a little wonky this past week. It would start to turn on and the flames would begin, but then it would shut off. That cycle would happen a few times then everything would stop for about an hour or so. Then it would repeat. Found out the most common cause is a dirty flame sensor. So I pulled it out and cleaned it with a cheap $1.50 diswash pad (pack of 3, so really 50¢), and voila...heat! Gotta love Google.

Over under

Welcome to the addiction, Nature Boy!! 😂

card game

Since you aren't seeing much water beading, I'm wondering if the sealant you used bonded properly. Not to pick on you at all, but is it possible you didn't seal the entire car...forgetting the lower portion? I ask because RW on a sealed car works really well and I've not seen the film you mention even after CO snow storms. Maybe it's your RW method...how do you do it? Yes, clay might remove, or at the very least weaken it. I was just wondering because it might also help remove whatever grime was on the car. And if you're gonna use the APC, that would also remove/weaken the sealant.

Hmm. What protection do you have on it now? How long ago was it applied? Have you tried to clay it?

I'll offer a different point of view. In my mind, using a pay and spray is only meant to get off the caked-on crud. Any residual film or leftover dirt from there can be removed safely with the rinseless wash alone. As you're aware, even diluted APC will weaken or possibly remove sealant or wax. It's the same premise as adding a couple ounces to a wash bucket for a strip wash, only on a smaller scale. In other words, any protection you add could be removed, so you're basically wasting product however often you use that process. I recommend you spray off most crud at the wash first. Then, at home, pretreat with diluted RW 16:1 and do the RW. No impact on your sealant/wax that way, and no wasted product. My two cents. Here's another way to do winter washes:

finish line

Welcome to the addiction, Daniel!

symbol lost

Can you wrap and drape it around the front handle?

Another great idea! I do have one so will give that a try if/when my hose thaws.

Good idea, I'll give it a shot. Was really hoping to try just a blast from the hose, but that doesn't seem to be in the cards right now.