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falcaineer

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Everything posted by falcaineer

  1. The furnace has been acting a little wonky this past week. It would start to turn on and the flames would begin, but then it would shut off. That cycle would happen a few times then everything would stop for about an hour or so. Then it would repeat. Found out the most common cause is a dirty flame sensor. So I pulled it out and cleaned it with a cheap $1.50 diswash pad (pack of 3, so really 50¢), and voila...heat! Gotta love Google.
  2. Welcome to the addiction, Nature Boy!! 😂
  3. Since you aren't seeing much water beading, I'm wondering if the sealant you used bonded properly. Not to pick on you at all, but is it possible you didn't seal the entire car...forgetting the lower portion? I ask because RW on a sealed car works really well and I've not seen the film you mention even after CO snow storms. Maybe it's your RW method...how do you do it? Yes, clay might remove, or at the very least weaken it. I was just wondering because it might also help remove whatever grime was on the car. And if you're gonna use the APC, that would also remove/weaken the sealant.
  4. Hmm. What protection do you have on it now? How long ago was it applied? Have you tried to clay it?
  5. I'll offer a different point of view. In my mind, using a pay and spray is only meant to get off the caked-on crud. Any residual film or leftover dirt from there can be removed safely with the rinseless wash alone. As you're aware, even diluted APC will weaken or possibly remove sealant or wax. It's the same premise as adding a couple ounces to a wash bucket for a strip wash, only on a smaller scale. In other words, any protection you add could be removed, so you're basically wasting product however often you use that process. I recommend you spray off most crud at the wash first. Then, at home, pretreat with diluted RW 16:1 and do the RW. No impact on your sealant/wax that way, and no wasted product. My two cents. Here's another way to do winter washes:
  6. Can you wrap and drape it around the front handle?
  7. Another great idea! I do have one so will give that a try if/when my hose thaws.
  8. Good idea, I'll give it a shot. Was really hoping to try just a blast from the hose, but that doesn't seem to be in the cards right now.
  9. Was going to give an update...but found my hose is frozen 🥶. A clean car (RW) with dirty tires and wheels just feels wrong.
  10. Welcome, Efrain! Great looking Porsche!!
  11. No, but that seems reasonable to me. And they'd smell better, too! I just got my Epic Pass so let me know if this works for you, and I'll do the same.
  12. Now that's cool, Devon! Another question...what LSP do you have on the cars and bike?
  13. First, welcome! Be sure to introduce yourself in the New Member forum...and include some pics of the new ride! You don't need to remove clay/Detail Spray residue before polishing. You can go straight to polish which will remove it. You should, however, remove the polish residue before wax/sealant/coating. 50/50 isopropyl alcohol or Coating Prep with quality MF towels are a couple options.
  14. Adam's did a collab with Big Chill that combined WW, DS, and CB for their appliances. Recommend you try that process.
  15. Welcome, Rick! Great looking Camaro!!!
  16. Do you have any pics? Others may chime in without them, but they could still help.
  17. Sure, it'd work fine. Likely won't be the same amount of foam because, by design, they don't produce the same using whatever soap you use. You'll want to add some to the bucket, too, so using the gun or Canon will use more than normal.
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