kaj41354

While the Roast above looks great, we went in a different direction for Christmas dinner.  We all like Salmon and since the son-in-law, who is married to my Chef Daughter, got a new Weber grill for Christmas, we knew we were going to try it out. The first picture is the Salmon being prepped, the second picture is the Salmon on the grill on the Maple planks, yes they are Maple instead of the normal Cedar plank and the last picture is the meal on the plate with the Maple-Honey sauce on the Salmon.  
 
Around the plate is the Yellow Crookneck squash, Mac & Cheese, Broccoli & Cauliflower with a lemon-dill cheese sauce and in the center are dutch oven potatoes with bacon, multiple seasonings and I'm not sure what else.  Not pictured are the fresh rolls and the Strawberry Mousse we had for dessert.   At least her 6 years of school are keeping me well fed when she isn't at the restaurant working. 

He asks all the right questions. You can do a lot with a one step polish provided the right combination of tools. Pads have a huge impact on the cutting power.
 
Your question does need some clarification though. When you say one step, are you talking about a single step of polish?  Or a 1-Step that’s an all in one polish?
 
The all in one polishes are aimed at those detailing for dollars. Acceptable improvement and some protection all in one nice neat step. In order to do that, sacrifices are all around. It will never polish as well as a true polish. And never protect like a true sealant. It’s a land of compromises to get a bit of each in one bottle.
 
 
I’m not going to blindly agree with this way of thinking. Two steps isn’t better than one when a finer polish is all that’s needed. At that point you’re taking clear coat off for no good reason. Ideally you don’t want to lose more than 1/3 of the clearcoat over the life of the vehicle in order to keep UV protection at it’s best.
 
On dark cars, if we compound or even use a more aggressive polish, we always follow with finishing polish. On lighter cars it becomes less essential overall. 
 
The best way to begin is to find a spot that represents the most damage or the average damage to the paint and do a test spot. Just a 2’x2’ spot will do. Try the least aggressive and see if you’re happy. If not, move to the next step until you find the right combination of pad/polish or compound and then go to town on the entire vehicle. 
 
You ALWAYS want to go least to most aggressive. With time and experience with different damages and paints, you can look at vehicles and have an idea what they need. 

Nice - one of my favorite cars of all time - the headlight action is awesome!

Nice - one of my favorite cars of all time - the headlight action is awesome!

Just an FYI post--I ordered the $99 mystery trunk organizer and the total of products I received was around $250.  Yeah some stuff I'll never use but that's a darn good deal.  I'll give away those items I won't use.  

Welcome Megyn, nice looking wrap.  

I just purchased an Alfa Romeo Stelvio and noticed the paint was tacky and had a lot of debris stuck to it.
I pulled out and original Adam’s clay bar and went to work.
after, I hand polished the whole Alfa by hand using the Correcting Polish and Finishing Polish. The results are great.
I am going to take more photos when the sun is out and I detail the glass.
Thanks Adam for such wonderful products.

I will add what I can. The below tire/wheel is brand new. This is with 2 coats of tire armor. It is more of a matte appearance and I did two rounds of tire n rubber cleaner with a tire brush. I am pleased with the appearance as I don’t like them super shiny. 

Thanks for sharing Ray!  I will now have to filter my glasses so that I don't see everything in a Red Hue for the rest of the day

Thanks for sharing Ray!  I will now have to filter my glasses so that I don't see everything in a Red Hue for the rest of the day

My last reply on this subject, but if you go to the 1:32 mark of the video above you can clearly see the dirt sitting on the raised pockets, not going into the recessed ones like is stated. A plush microfiber will give you more surface area and more space for the dirt to travel (into the long fibers). 
 
I have learned to experiment with certain things and not always take someone's word for gold. When you experiment, you learn and gain wisdom 

In short, yes to all of the above.  Regarding the finishing polish, the foam may actually be too soft to get the polish to work.  Even the white finishing pads are firmer than the red or gray.
 
But for wax or sealant, the red is just as good as the gray.

Obviously you didn't read the fine print:
 
 

Welcome!  You have come to the right place to learn.  Just ask your questions in the forums.  Lots of great people with a lot of experience.

This is where a Master Blaster comes in handy. 

Your process is sound! Exactly my process and thoughts behind it. 
 
A steamer can also also work wonders for engine bays you don’t want to use a lot of water in. Carbureted engines come to mind. A little bit of mild APC (diluted 10:1) agitated with some brushes, steam and wipe. Done! 

Welcome Trenton

Don't disassemble your instrument cluster to repair the heater controls, then reassemble with your Adams flashlight still inside.

This is from the site...….
A low abrasive polish designed to be used by hand to remove imperfections and swirls.
The combination of super fine polishing agents, paint cleansers, and essential oils in Adam's Revive Fine Hand Car Polish work to make your paint look darker and wetter than it ever has before, plus we've made it super easy to remove. Adam's Fine Hand Revive Polish wipes easily away with a microfiber cloth and best of all it won't stain your trim.
 

My garage has no HVAC, and is completely uninsulated.  Even during the coldest western PA winters it only drops into the mid-40s inside.  I'm sure it gets much colder than that in the back of a FedEx truck, though.

Anyone notice how similar in color Tire Shine and Ceramic Boost 2.0 are?  I didn't either, but I can tell you it takes multiple rounds of Tire & Rubber cleaner to get CB 2.0 off the tire once applied.
 
Weren't we all taught to Read the Label before we use something - It seems that with age, I forgot that lesson.

Truck looks great Ian!

What I do is dump the bucket between each wash. I look at it from the standpoint of micro Grime that may contaminate and then get place on vehicle that I am washing. Such contaminants May intern harm or scratch the paint. Even with the guard at the bottom it can still bring up some small fine bits of grime into the mit that you're then placing back on the car. I have always had the philosophy of starting clean each time. When I wash my wheels after finishing I dumped the buckets refill with new water and start on the body. What I do to save product is use the foam gun. I pour a little bit of the solution on my mit but have clean water in both buckets. That will eventually transfer into a soapy bucket in the middle to the end of the wash. This saves material and time.

Forgot to add that applying the single coat to all four tires barely put a dent into the amount in the bottle. More of a road chip, really 😆. Sure, mileage will vary with size of tires, etc. But safe to assume this 8oz bottle will last a while for the average user.
 
Wish I had a before pic, but here's the after.
 

 
*Bottle shaken to add bubbles and make seeing fluid level easier.

Thanks for the demo @falcaineer. My order is due Monday.  Will have to try on the daily driver and see what happens with the PA road crap.