cwp2016nd

Yup. And it looks like they’re trying it again. It’s been a year and zero information on it. Can’t believe they’re trying to get two years of SEMA out of one line of products that hasn’t been released. 
 
I’ve inquired many times on the phone and over email about the Pro-Line and have consistently been told “I don’t know” or “it’s coming.” This debut and lack of follow through is actually a big driving force to us trying other products and discovering other lines. 
 
In my opinion Adam’s really dropped the ball miserably with this product line. And putting it out at SEMA for the second year...I just don’t know. 

Interesting. My experience has been the exact opposite.

The borderless grey towel is a great option. I have used those before and like how they work. My go to towel for rinseless washes is a 500gsm edgeless plush microfiber. I have the same style towel from 4 different companies and love them all. 

Did a one step paint correction yesterday on a 2010 Camaro SS. 
 
I used a SK21/SK12 and Adam's orange pads with another brands compound. It came out really nice. I also forgot how much real estate these 5th gen Camaros really have. 
 
I also heavily cleaned the wheels/tires and exhaust tips - I forgot to do a lot of before pictures, I just got to work when I arrived. The streaking you see on the tire is the product drying. It goes on shiny and turns into a dark, matte finish.
 
I want to add that this has two layers of sealant on it as well. They are non-adams products but their equivalents would be using paint sealant and then topping that with quick sealant (their old aerosol sealant). It gives a GREAT gloss to the paint as well as solid protection. 





 

This is a discussion/statement rather than a question.
 
Just yesterday I detailed a 2010 Camaro SS that was actually relatively clean. The owner neglected the wheels but he touches the body up with a detail spray whenever he gets a bird bomb, piece of dirt etc. 
 
After I washed the paint (I will go over my process in a bit) I ran my hand across the paint to feel for embedded contaminants and surprisingly the paint was smooth! No need to clay bar for most of the vehicle. The areas I did have to touch are the higher traffic areas for contamination such as behind the tires, rear bumper and some spots on the roof. 
 
Now, for my washing process I did a rinseless wash. 2.5 gallons of water with 1.25 ounces of my favorite rinseless wash concentrate and 6-8 microfiber towels soaking in the bucket. Before I wipe the panel down, I will spray it with a degreaser that is diluted 4:1 to give myself the best chance of removing traffic/road film off the paint. I let it dwell for approximately 30 seconds, wipe, dry and move onto the next panel. For this experiment I did the driver side door with the rinseless solution ONLY, no degreaser treatment before hand. 
 
After the vehicle was washed I showed the customer how there were very few spots that needed to be clayed and I also showed him what traffic film looks like. I clayed a section of the vehicle that I did with the degreaser and the clay came up clean. I then went over to his driver side door, clayed and there was black/brown residue that came off the clear coat.
 
Road/Traffic film is the contamination on the road after it rains. There are a lot of vehicles on the road that leak engine oil, transmission fluid, differential fluid, antifreeze, brake fluid etc ALL over the road. Those fluids will then seep into the asphalt/concrete and reappear when it rains. It then "mixes" with the rain and sprays onto your vehicle, coating it with a nasty residue. Being that most of the fluid that got sprayed onto your car is not water soluble (nor will a PH neutral soap break it down) you should give your car a thorough wash with a strong soap once in a while to truly "clean" it. 
 
What does this mean in the grand scheme of things? It means that traffic film can and will build up on your paint if you don't strip it once in a while. There are many methods to removing it and my favorite one is the one I mentioned previously (degreaser/rinseless wash) and a close second would be to use a soap that has a PH of 10 to help strip it. Simply re-apply your wax/sealant afterwards and you're ready to go. What you should also take note of is that after it rains & you wash your car with a PH neutral soap and then follow that up with your favorite protection, you are not allowing the product to truly bond with your paint to the best of it's abilities. 
 
I want to add that removing road film is a great way to keep up on your ceramic coatings too. Just because they are "self cleaning" in a way doesn't mean they are impervious to this. You still need to decontaminate your paint once in a while to keep the coating doing it's best. 
 
I am fully aware this is a controversial topic to some people out there on other forums but I wanted to bring it to light here because this is where I frequent and I just had this scenario come up yesterday. I am also aware my writing is pretty terrible as I was horrible in English class in School, lol. It is hard for me to translate my thoughts into a well written post for some reason so bare with me. 

Oof, thats a rough one having a white care and all, lol. I'm going to do my best and get some shots. 

Glad there’s some interest already. And even sounds like people coming from FAR away possibly. 
 
So in talking with Marquis and Justin, I think we’ve worked out how to pick the cars we are going to use!
 
Here’s the rough details...it will be a photo contest. You can email me photos at shane@detailedreflectionsct.com or you could even text to 860-539-7464 if that’s easier. 
 
Photos have to be reflection photos including the vehicle you want considered for a service!  We are doing this as a play on our business name with Detailed Reflections and also to make sure we don’t try to tackle a coating on a car that needs a full blown paint correction in the interest of time. 
 
So...up for grabs are one five year warrantied coating installed at the clinic by attendees with our oversight!
 
Also a full interior service performed by the attendees with full fabric/leather protection. 
 
Those are the two photo contest prizes. We will raffle off the glass coating. The rule though is that if you receive one of the other prizes, you can’t win the glass coating. We want to spread the prizes around!
 
Start thinking of and shooting photos!
 
Thanks for the support guys and girls!

That is very true @shane@detailedreflections I typically try and strip road film so I keep my pads in the best shape possible. But like you said, if I have a pad that is on it's way out I will use that one to clean the road film from the paint and save the chemical process of removing it. I skip the APC step and use my dedicated shampoo; its like a 2-in-1. 
 
As I continue to progress as an automotive detailer I will write more as they come to me. Writing was something I always wanted to pursue but I could never quite wrap my head around it. It sounds great in my head, but doesn't flow when I write it. There are many topics floating in my head and I will surely have time to write some longer articles when winter is finally upon us. 
 
Thank you for the compliment. It's something not everyone may be aware of and since I encountered it the other day I figured I would pass along the information. 

That is very true @shane@detailedreflections I typically try and strip road film so I keep my pads in the best shape possible. But like you said, if I have a pad that is on it's way out I will use that one to clean the road film from the paint and save the chemical process of removing it. I skip the APC step and use my dedicated shampoo; its like a 2-in-1. 
 
As I continue to progress as an automotive detailer I will write more as they come to me. Writing was something I always wanted to pursue but I could never quite wrap my head around it. It sounds great in my head, but doesn't flow when I write it. There are many topics floating in my head and I will surely have time to write some longer articles when winter is finally upon us. 
 
Thank you for the compliment. It's something not everyone may be aware of and since I encountered it the other day I figured I would pass along the information. 

That is very true @shane@detailedreflections I typically try and strip road film so I keep my pads in the best shape possible. But like you said, if I have a pad that is on it's way out I will use that one to clean the road film from the paint and save the chemical process of removing it. I skip the APC step and use my dedicated shampoo; its like a 2-in-1. 
 
As I continue to progress as an automotive detailer I will write more as they come to me. Writing was something I always wanted to pursue but I could never quite wrap my head around it. It sounds great in my head, but doesn't flow when I write it. There are many topics floating in my head and I will surely have time to write some longer articles when winter is finally upon us. 
 
Thank you for the compliment. It's something not everyone may be aware of and since I encountered it the other day I figured I would pass along the information. 

Some good points @cwp2016nd  I’ll add that you can also take care of road film through the polishing process, but plan to smoke a pad or two. And sometimes that’s exactly what we do. We grab a pad that’s on its way out and finish it off. Especially if it’s bad. You’ll see the pad turn black. 
 
And agreed on the APC not being strong enough. We use an APC concentrate so we can vary the strength.
 
And nice article!  It’s nice to see others starting to write more. Makes it more educational for everyone. 

From the pictures I think you will be able to get them out with compound/polish. If not all of it, at least 85%. But there is only one way to find out! 

That should definitely work. Based on their descriptions, the multi-use foam is a bit stronger than carpet and upholstery cleaner AND more importantly, because it is foam there is less chance of saturation. 

I would say their carpet and upholstery cleaner. I've never used it but have heard good things about it. 

Did a one step paint correction yesterday on a 2010 Camaro SS. 
 
I used a SK21/SK12 and Adam's orange pads with another brands compound. It came out really nice. I also forgot how much real estate these 5th gen Camaros really have. 
 
I also heavily cleaned the wheels/tires and exhaust tips - I forgot to do a lot of before pictures, I just got to work when I arrived. The streaking you see on the tire is the product drying. It goes on shiny and turns into a dark, matte finish.
 
I want to add that this has two layers of sealant on it as well. They are non-adams products but their equivalents would be using paint sealant and then topping that with quick sealant (their old aerosol sealant). It gives a GREAT gloss to the paint as well as solid protection. 





 

This is a discussion/statement rather than a question.
 
Just yesterday I detailed a 2010 Camaro SS that was actually relatively clean. The owner neglected the wheels but he touches the body up with a detail spray whenever he gets a bird bomb, piece of dirt etc. 
 
After I washed the paint (I will go over my process in a bit) I ran my hand across the paint to feel for embedded contaminants and surprisingly the paint was smooth! No need to clay bar for most of the vehicle. The areas I did have to touch are the higher traffic areas for contamination such as behind the tires, rear bumper and some spots on the roof. 
 
Now, for my washing process I did a rinseless wash. 2.5 gallons of water with 1.25 ounces of my favorite rinseless wash concentrate and 6-8 microfiber towels soaking in the bucket. Before I wipe the panel down, I will spray it with a degreaser that is diluted 4:1 to give myself the best chance of removing traffic/road film off the paint. I let it dwell for approximately 30 seconds, wipe, dry and move onto the next panel. For this experiment I did the driver side door with the rinseless solution ONLY, no degreaser treatment before hand. 
 
After the vehicle was washed I showed the customer how there were very few spots that needed to be clayed and I also showed him what traffic film looks like. I clayed a section of the vehicle that I did with the degreaser and the clay came up clean. I then went over to his driver side door, clayed and there was black/brown residue that came off the clear coat.
 
Road/Traffic film is the contamination on the road after it rains. There are a lot of vehicles on the road that leak engine oil, transmission fluid, differential fluid, antifreeze, brake fluid etc ALL over the road. Those fluids will then seep into the asphalt/concrete and reappear when it rains. It then "mixes" with the rain and sprays onto your vehicle, coating it with a nasty residue. Being that most of the fluid that got sprayed onto your car is not water soluble (nor will a PH neutral soap break it down) you should give your car a thorough wash with a strong soap once in a while to truly "clean" it. 
 
What does this mean in the grand scheme of things? It means that traffic film can and will build up on your paint if you don't strip it once in a while. There are many methods to removing it and my favorite one is the one I mentioned previously (degreaser/rinseless wash) and a close second would be to use a soap that has a PH of 10 to help strip it. Simply re-apply your wax/sealant afterwards and you're ready to go. What you should also take note of is that after it rains & you wash your car with a PH neutral soap and then follow that up with your favorite protection, you are not allowing the product to truly bond with your paint to the best of it's abilities. 
 
I want to add that removing road film is a great way to keep up on your ceramic coatings too. Just because they are "self cleaning" in a way doesn't mean they are impervious to this. You still need to decontaminate your paint once in a while to keep the coating doing it's best. 
 
I am fully aware this is a controversial topic to some people out there on other forums but I wanted to bring it to light here because this is where I frequent and I just had this scenario come up yesterday. I am also aware my writing is pretty terrible as I was horrible in English class in School, lol. It is hard for me to translate my thoughts into a well written post for some reason so bare with me. 

I notice this big time on my wife Pearl White Rav4, it'll get a dingy black film. 

This is a discussion/statement rather than a question.
 
Just yesterday I detailed a 2010 Camaro SS that was actually relatively clean. The owner neglected the wheels but he touches the body up with a detail spray whenever he gets a bird bomb, piece of dirt etc. 
 
After I washed the paint (I will go over my process in a bit) I ran my hand across the paint to feel for embedded contaminants and surprisingly the paint was smooth! No need to clay bar for most of the vehicle. The areas I did have to touch are the higher traffic areas for contamination such as behind the tires, rear bumper and some spots on the roof. 
 
Now, for my washing process I did a rinseless wash. 2.5 gallons of water with 1.25 ounces of my favorite rinseless wash concentrate and 6-8 microfiber towels soaking in the bucket. Before I wipe the panel down, I will spray it with a degreaser that is diluted 4:1 to give myself the best chance of removing traffic/road film off the paint. I let it dwell for approximately 30 seconds, wipe, dry and move onto the next panel. For this experiment I did the driver side door with the rinseless solution ONLY, no degreaser treatment before hand. 
 
After the vehicle was washed I showed the customer how there were very few spots that needed to be clayed and I also showed him what traffic film looks like. I clayed a section of the vehicle that I did with the degreaser and the clay came up clean. I then went over to his driver side door, clayed and there was black/brown residue that came off the clear coat.
 
Road/Traffic film is the contamination on the road after it rains. There are a lot of vehicles on the road that leak engine oil, transmission fluid, differential fluid, antifreeze, brake fluid etc ALL over the road. Those fluids will then seep into the asphalt/concrete and reappear when it rains. It then "mixes" with the rain and sprays onto your vehicle, coating it with a nasty residue. Being that most of the fluid that got sprayed onto your car is not water soluble (nor will a PH neutral soap break it down) you should give your car a thorough wash with a strong soap once in a while to truly "clean" it. 
 
What does this mean in the grand scheme of things? It means that traffic film can and will build up on your paint if you don't strip it once in a while. There are many methods to removing it and my favorite one is the one I mentioned previously (degreaser/rinseless wash) and a close second would be to use a soap that has a PH of 10 to help strip it. Simply re-apply your wax/sealant afterwards and you're ready to go. What you should also take note of is that after it rains & you wash your car with a PH neutral soap and then follow that up with your favorite protection, you are not allowing the product to truly bond with your paint to the best of it's abilities. 
 
I want to add that removing road film is a great way to keep up on your ceramic coatings too. Just because they are "self cleaning" in a way doesn't mean they are impervious to this. You still need to decontaminate your paint once in a while to keep the coating doing it's best. 
 
I am fully aware this is a controversial topic to some people out there on other forums but I wanted to bring it to light here because this is where I frequent and I just had this scenario come up yesterday. I am also aware my writing is pretty terrible as I was horrible in English class in School, lol. It is hard for me to translate my thoughts into a well written post for some reason so bare with me. 

This is a discussion/statement rather than a question.
 
Just yesterday I detailed a 2010 Camaro SS that was actually relatively clean. The owner neglected the wheels but he touches the body up with a detail spray whenever he gets a bird bomb, piece of dirt etc. 
 
After I washed the paint (I will go over my process in a bit) I ran my hand across the paint to feel for embedded contaminants and surprisingly the paint was smooth! No need to clay bar for most of the vehicle. The areas I did have to touch are the higher traffic areas for contamination such as behind the tires, rear bumper and some spots on the roof. 
 
Now, for my washing process I did a rinseless wash. 2.5 gallons of water with 1.25 ounces of my favorite rinseless wash concentrate and 6-8 microfiber towels soaking in the bucket. Before I wipe the panel down, I will spray it with a degreaser that is diluted 4:1 to give myself the best chance of removing traffic/road film off the paint. I let it dwell for approximately 30 seconds, wipe, dry and move onto the next panel. For this experiment I did the driver side door with the rinseless solution ONLY, no degreaser treatment before hand. 
 
After the vehicle was washed I showed the customer how there were very few spots that needed to be clayed and I also showed him what traffic film looks like. I clayed a section of the vehicle that I did with the degreaser and the clay came up clean. I then went over to his driver side door, clayed and there was black/brown residue that came off the clear coat.
 
Road/Traffic film is the contamination on the road after it rains. There are a lot of vehicles on the road that leak engine oil, transmission fluid, differential fluid, antifreeze, brake fluid etc ALL over the road. Those fluids will then seep into the asphalt/concrete and reappear when it rains. It then "mixes" with the rain and sprays onto your vehicle, coating it with a nasty residue. Being that most of the fluid that got sprayed onto your car is not water soluble (nor will a PH neutral soap break it down) you should give your car a thorough wash with a strong soap once in a while to truly "clean" it. 
 
What does this mean in the grand scheme of things? It means that traffic film can and will build up on your paint if you don't strip it once in a while. There are many methods to removing it and my favorite one is the one I mentioned previously (degreaser/rinseless wash) and a close second would be to use a soap that has a PH of 10 to help strip it. Simply re-apply your wax/sealant afterwards and you're ready to go. What you should also take note of is that after it rains & you wash your car with a PH neutral soap and then follow that up with your favorite protection, you are not allowing the product to truly bond with your paint to the best of it's abilities. 
 
I want to add that removing road film is a great way to keep up on your ceramic coatings too. Just because they are "self cleaning" in a way doesn't mean they are impervious to this. You still need to decontaminate your paint once in a while to keep the coating doing it's best. 
 
I am fully aware this is a controversial topic to some people out there on other forums but I wanted to bring it to light here because this is where I frequent and I just had this scenario come up yesterday. I am also aware my writing is pretty terrible as I was horrible in English class in School, lol. It is hard for me to translate my thoughts into a well written post for some reason so bare with me. 

Yes they are. 
 
In general, the more aggressive the pad, the more dense/firm it is. A white polishing pad is relatively soft compared to an orange cutting pad. 

I will certainly try to go. It sounds like a good time. 

OK got it, thanks again!

A ceramic coating will typically have to be polished off, with the higher end coatings needing wetsanding/heavy compounding to remove. 
 
I should add most ceramic coatings are designed to withstand harsher chemicals such as degreasers with a PH level in the 10-12 range. 
 
A PH neutral soap will have a tough time removing a synthetic paint sealant that is fresh. You may have to wash it multiple times where as a higher PH soap should do it in one or two washes. 

Very cool!  Some much needed adjustments to make it more “snow” ready for those NY winters.  Let me know what you think of the ceramic wheel coatings.  My son is thinking about doing his wheels with it.

Because this soap is more effective at removing old layers of protection as well as "decontaminating" the paint (removing traffic film from the paint) being that it is NOT PH neutral like Adam's strip wash.
 
Strip wash is designed to "strip" old waxes and sealants, not new ones.