Bscott94

If you are talking about Pitting it might not help but Adams metal polish works great for stuff like that.  My running boards are chrome and after winter I had a film on them from winter chemical. I use the polish on the wheels and running boards.  Just did this a couple hours ago.

What he said!

Let’s follow up with a whole bunch more information about what paint correction is, and when it should (and shouldn’t be applied). 
 
Paint correction is not a magic bullet. It’s not something that can be done unlimited times. Paint correction works by removing clear coat in order to remove defects in your paint. 
 
Most of the UV protection of your paint comes in the first 1/3 of the clearcoat. Knowing that, we don’t want to remove more than that over the LIFETIME of the vehicle. Once you reduce the UV protection you accelerate clearcoat failure requiring a repaint. 
 
Paint correction also serves to level the clearcoat on a vehicle increasing the glossy look of the finish. This is why even brand new vehicles benefit from polishing. 
 
Modern paint systems are a three part system. They consist of a primer, base coat (color) and clear coat.  Older paints may be single stage in nature mixing the clear and paint layers. 
 
On top of your paint sits a variety of contamination and defects typically. Contamination on the paint is generally tackled with washing, iron remover and clay.
 

 
When we talk about defects, there’s spider webs which are microscratches, deep scratches which may or not be able to be taken care of without repainting and other forms of defects as illustrated below. 
 

 
When paint correcting we are only working with the clear coat. So as you can see, the deep scratches can’t be fixed. And some that are just in the clear coat shouldn’t be fixed for fear of striking through or removing too much clear accelerating failure. 
 
So you get a car, and you paint correct it. You’ve removed a little clear coat. You use good technique in washing and over time you develop damage (it happens no matter what we do). You polish again. But because you’ve used good technique along the way, you only need a finish polish to take a little clear coat off. Using this methodology you can get a long time with out of your paint and great looks. 
 
The other scenario is you perform a paint correction and you take it through the automatic car wash. You damage your finish over time. You then need a full correction to repair the damage which takes off more of the clear coat.  When approached this way, you’re going to burn through more clear coat or get less corrections. 
 
So the ultimate answer to your question is to correct as infrequently as possible to preserve the clear coat. We use a paint thickness gauge to know what we are doing to a clients paint (or what they’ve done to it already). 
 
We are not opposed to using a fine polish a couple times a year. It leaves a satisfactory finish for most clients without significantly shortening the life of the paint. We will sometimes use a compound in isolated spots to handle concentrated damage as opposed to going all in everywhere. 
 
Hope this is helpful. 

Copied from the announcement on our Facebook Community:
 
Friends and Customers of Adam’s Polishes-
 
We recently learned of posts on social media raising concerns about potential credit card issues in connection with transactions on the Adam’s Polishes web site. We place huge value on our relationship with our customers, and we are writing this post in an effort to respond to those concerns.
 
First let me clarify, Adam’s never stores or holds credit card information. When our customer types in a credit card number during the online purchasing process, the information is first encrypted in the browser before it is sent directly to our credit card company. Adam’s employees do not have access to credit card information at any point of the process.
 
We take security and privacy very seriously and we have been working proactively and diligently to address any potential issue. When we learned of these concerns, we engaged expert security professionals to review the concerns raised by our customers, our security and our website. All of the scans have come up clean, and thus far we have not been able to identify any issues with our website or service providers.
 
Adam’s is not trying to minimize or avoid the fact that people have and are experiencing credit card fraud. We are just trying to understand it and react to what is a very complex issue. At the end of the day if customers have an issue, we have an issue – we fully understand that.
 
As part of our ongoing effort to improve service and security and in addition to our ongoing software upgrades, we are changing our server hosting provider this week as part of commitment to improving the customer experience and security.
 
We appreciate your loyalty and hope you will be patient with us as we go through this difficult and time consuming process. Of course, if you have concerns about the Adam’s site, you can use Amazon, PayPal or contact your local dealer.
 
If you do feel like you have had a security issue as a result of ordering through the Adam’s site, please contact us directly at IT@adamspolishes.com. We will update this post on Friday, March 15th with any new information.
 
Thank you.

I agree. I'm not sure if they leave them in case they get another batch but there's a few items that I don't see coming back. I really hope the Barrett Jackson Detail Kit comes back. I missed it and I really want one

Saturday I applied two coats of tire armor on my truck. Could not be happier with it. I put 1 coat on my daily Ford Ranger and that is definitely a matte look compared to this.

I spray it on, buff it a bit and allow to haze and then do a buff/wipe with a clean microfiber and all done. I think I'm going to try it on the insides of my house windows this weekend - I haven't tried that one yet. 

That sounds exciting! I was fortunate enough to win 2 sectional titles in high school. The next round is regionals for us but we didn't make it past that. One year, we got beat by Yogi Ferrel's high school team if you've ever heard of him. My brother won sectionals last year during his senior year. It was so exciting to watch but it was also nerve-racking 

I'll pass it along to product development! I would love to see a new plate with our updated logo, but I can't promise anything.

Not today but last weekend I got my desk mostly complete. After staining and many rounds of poly and sanding, I hit it with finishing polish and a coat of buttery wax. I have to cut out and stain/poly a couple small shelves but it’s now usable.

I found a really nice pair of polarized sunglasses at Walmart in the fishing section. They were pretty cheap, don't look bad, and work great. 

Welcome from Indianapolis! You might tell yourself you'll start slow but just wait! You'll see a sale and then another and another...

I grabbed the one from you profile and cropped it slightly and resized it. Let me know if this works for you. 

Applied CTC to my textured plastic bed cover about 2 or so weeks ago. It's been on and off raining since and haven't washed the truck.  CTC is doing it thing, definitely worth the extra effort needed to apply it.

Not today but last weekend I got my desk mostly complete. After staining and many rounds of poly and sanding, I hit it with finishing polish and a coat of buttery wax. I have to cut out and stain/poly a couple small shelves but it’s now usable.

I’ll preface this post with this...we are a business and we are an accredited installer for various coatings we install. That being said, we’ve been trained by the manufacturer in application and removal of their products.
 
If we installed a ceramic coating and a drive through car wash removed the coating I would fully anticipate my client coming back to me and having some words that would likely end up in my refunding their money. Fortunately we don’t install products that we haven’t tested for durability so we have a feel of what to expect for our clients.
 
Now regardless of a chemical removing the coating, there’s still polishing to be done. Polishing through the coating and into the paint is part of the prep steps for reinstallation of another last step product (coating or otherwise).
 
A chemical strong enough to remove a coating (which tends to be more resistant than paint thus it’s benefit) is probably pretty harsh on the finish of a vehicle. If that finish gets further damaged we’ve increased our workload.
 
Nothing is incapable of being removed, but there are “best practices” in removal, and no manufacturer I’ve encountered recommends a chemical removal for a ceramic coating. 

Goodguys PPG nationals, 6500 cars! Plus the Adams show rig is there, we do demonstrations and sell products.

I'm interested. What's happening there? haha

More pictures! Welcome to the forum. Beautiful car. There's a few others on here with em. 

Just getya one'a these...
 
 

I'm in Indy but if the Adams truck will be in Chicago, I'll be there

Well I guess you have 2 options then, brushed finish or polished.  Both processes start out the same.  Brushed finish will look something like your older pictures.
 
I would start with 220 grit sandpaper to knock down the bulk of the corrosion and pitting and work your way up to 1000 or 1500.  You'll end up with something similar to what you had in your before pics.  On the last stage of sanding, try to sand in a uniform motion around the wheel so you get a nice consistent look.  Here's a link for reference.  https://www.clublexus.com/forums/the-tire-rack-s-tires-wheels-and-brakes-forum/522813-diy-brushed-aluminium-wheels.html
 
If you want to polish, start with the above process.  The kit that Devon linked would be great to start with, those buffers are 1/4" shank so they won't fit in a Dremel but you can use them in a die grinder or on a drill. A good step after that would be a Powerball with something like Adams metal polish.  Think of those compound bars as Adams Heavy Correcting Compund and Adams Metal Polish is more like the Finishing Polish.
 
Then maintain with Eco Wheel Cleaner or just shampoo and touch up every once in a while.  Aluminum is pretty sensitive to harsh chemicals.  Hope that helps a little.

I'd say best option in my mind, is to get that polishing kit I mentioned, and then after that either use eco wheel cleaner or just normal car shampoo and a mitt on them. If down the road you notice them getting hazy you can use metal polish and just hand jive them back to a nice shine. Simple and easy steps I'd say. 

Thanks for the kind words/confidence, @Firebuff17, but I must admit I go directly to both of those guys for advice myself!
 
Both you and @shane@detailedreflections said it well, and it looks like Vince already found an answer, so I'll try to summarize my  views a different way for others reading:
 
Traditional Ceramic (Paint) Coating
Pros
Longevity (2yr+)
Durability ("ream of paper")
Can be removed by polishing
One coat provides max performance
Awesome shine
 
Cons
Care to apply/longer application method
Cost ($110/50ml); one 50ml bottle covers 1-2 average-size cars = ~$50-100 per coating
24-48 hour cure time
Towels and applicator(s) must be thrown out
 
Ceramic Spray Coating
Pros
Application method/applies quickly
Cost ($70/16oz); one 16oz bottle covers 6-8 average-size cars = ~$10/coating
4 hour cure time
Towels and applicator(s) can be reused if washed immediately
Can be removed by polishing
Awesome shine
 
Cons
Longevity (6-8 months)
Durability ("sheet of paper")
Requires two coats to add additional performance

I cleaned and organized my garage a little bit. I still need to come up with a good way to store/display my chemicals.