Bscott94

I hope the pelican cases are offered for those of us that already have SK. I would also be interested in getting a mini to try out

Def great idea..i just wonder about the price point...was figuring it would have to be close to or more than $100 in order to cover shipping (weight of machine plus pelican type case) and the machine cost.  I do have my own 15mm sk. But would be nice to get my hands on a mini sk!

This is a close up of my convertible top after Ceramic Spray. Looks pretty close to 300 degrees...
 
- Oh, and this is with car turned on, V8 rumbling away.
 
 

"I want off, I want off, I want off!" - The Bead

Hi Mike, Welcome! Adams has an amazing selection of products to help you clean, correct and protect your paint. They have really made products that are diy friendly. And this forum is a great place for people to share tips and experiences with you.
 
Let us see some pictures of the scratches and contamination on the paint? That might give us a better idea of what it is you need.
 
I can start off by saying that Detailing has become something that I (and probably the majority of people on here) look forward to. It started off as a need to maintain my vehicle, now it's what I like to do to get away. Adams has done a great job of making my experience enjoyable as a detailer. I understand what you're saying, and I believe that Adam's has a great system to get you amazing results without damaging your vehicle. I can make a few basic recommendations based on what you provided so far - hope this helps:
 
Use a safe shampoo for washing the car. Car Shampoo is a great place to start. If you have a pressure washer and are interested in foaming your vehicle, take a look at the Ultra Foam shampoo. Make sure you have a safe wash pad or microfiber washmitt for the actual wash. And I would highly suggest getting high quality microfiber towels for many different steps in the process. It's common that people will use whatever towels are available for drying their vehicle. That's a big mistake that I made in the past causing damage to my paint.
 
In terms of clay, my favorite right now is the Visco clay bar, but since you have a space ship, you may want to go with the Clay Mitt. It will help cover more area quicker. Make sure to use a lubricant Detail Spray is a great product to use for Claying, also for so many different things. Adam's detail spray is what made me start detailing.
 
For paint correction/scratch treatment, take a look at the Polishing options that Adams has. If you're a beginner this will be a lot to take in, so maybe start by watching some of their videos to see how their process works. they also have a good youtube channel.
 
For protection, I will point you to the link below to understand a little bit about what we're looking at. It's up to personal preference. I would recommend Ceramic Coating your vehicle if it's your daily driver. That's what I've done with mine, and protection is still visible and evident many months later. IF that seems like too much of a process, I would suggest using the Ceramic Paste Wax.
 
 

Heavy Correcting Compound and Finish Polish along with Ceramic Coating (Hocossy brand, $11 on Amazon. We'll see how it works). Also hit it with Ceramic Boost the next day. It's not a perfect car but I was surprised with how many scuffs and scratches came out. It gave me a good amount of practice. 
 

Heavy Correcting Compound and Finish Polish along with Ceramic Coating (Hocossy brand, $11 on Amazon. We'll see how it works). Also hit it with Ceramic Boost the next day. It's not a perfect car but I was surprised with how many scuffs and scratches came out. It gave me a good amount of practice. 
 

I completed my mission a couple of hours ago with a Waterless Wash and Brilliant Glaze of the Terrain.  The BG sure does make a clean vehicle Ceramic Paste Wax pop.   I'm beginning to think the wife is happy with her new ride, she's put almost 500 miles on it and we taking it on a short trip today, hence the need to make it pop.

Interior pictures never do a vehicle justice.  I completed the Leather Conditioner on the interior today, including the dash and got the few high spots out.   As I understand it, the next item will be Lloyd's floor mats.  We received the GMC all weather mats and the stock carpet mats with the Terrain, neither come across as anything special. 

I would suggest a baseball bat or large rock at this point. 

One thing that seems to get forgotten is you can develop a haze when you really start to layer products. This is even more true when laying products with different bases (sealant is not silica based like “ceramic” products are).
 
Many enthusiasts like to touch their cars and apply product to “make it shine.” The truth is that sometimes less really is more. 
 
Before adding more product, what protection is left?  What layers are still there?  Wax will disappear before a sealant as an example. Frequent use of some products allows them to build up and become more difficult to work with. 
 
It’s often brought up about streaking when using too much of a product in application. Frequent application creates the same effect. 
 
My daily driver and the wife’s daily drivers are both ceramic coated (with another product, not Adam’s for full disclosure) and admittedly don’t get washed as often as they should or could. I’ve applied a spray top coat to our vehicles once or twice since application and that’s in New England winter. They were coated in August and September of last year. A wash, clay and reapplication and they looked like we had just done them. 
 
The garage queen gets washed more often, but boosted less since it’s not driven often. It gets a top coat once a year. 
 
With waxes/sealants you need to do more frequent applications, but this should be measured in months. Not days. 
 
Don’t over complicate or overthink your processes. Make it easy on yourself and pick a set of products that work for you and stick with them. If you’re “ceramic based,” stick with them. If your traditional, stick with them. Don’t cross them over looking for a magic formula of shine. The real truth is that the gloss comes from how you finish your paint before ever applying protection. The other layers merely lock it in to with varying degree. Pick the products that fit with your style of maintaining your finish. If you’re hands on, go with products that will allow you to satisfy yourself. If you’re the “I just want to drive it” type, go with products that lend themselves to that goal. 
 
In the end you can spend a lot of money on products you don’t need or don’t fit your style and then drive yourself crazy trying to make them work for you. It’s needless stress.

The Chef daughter decided that we needed to cook out tonight and couldn't decide what to make.  We ended up with Filet Mignon, Seasoned Salmon with a skin backing, and Bourbon Marinated Salmon and loaded baked potatoes.   Besides the grilled food, we had Chipotle Mac & Cheese, a dill something cucumber salad and various fresh fruits.   I think the pictures of the grill speak for themselves, the Filet and potatoes were started and then the Salmon was put on.
 
The Filet was medium rare, leaning more toward rare and the Salmon was a perfect 135 degrees. 
 
 

I think Revive Hand Polish would be a good option. I would wait to hear what others think. There should be some people on here with Matte stripes that can offer advice from experience. 

I actually watched a video about Adam's Brilliant Glaze last night and I'm pretty sure they say not to use BG on Matte or Satin surfaces. 

I was standing in front of the sliding glass door watching it rain and thought "I wonder what would happen if I used CSC on my umbrella and grill cover". I may need to try to pick up a bottle and see what happens. 

Hmm, seems funny to join a forum, bump a thread that hasn't had a reply in 3 years, and then hyperlink to an outside web page. 
 
This is your first and only warning. If this continues, your account will be flagged as a spammer and banned.

i used the Adam’s Ceramic Spray Coating on my 2000 Porsche Boxster today. I followed the steps Falcaineer gave me along with the advice he got from the Shine Stop.
I ended up putting 2 coats on the top after using an APC with a brush to clean the top before I coated.
Here is the video of my before and after.
Thanks Falcaineer!

Is you cant use it every wash!
 
 

That fence looks great! Anytime I hear vinyl fence, I think bright white. I like the darker color that you used. It's less intrusive. I'd like to see how the Wash and Coat works

Not today but last weekend I got my desk mostly complete. After staining and many rounds of poly and sanding, I hit it with finishing polish and a coat of buttery wax. I have to cut out and stain/poly a couple small shelves but it’s now usable.

Watched Adam demo it at a recent clinic. Here's a before and after.
 

 

 

I'll try that. I've been wanting to make 50/50 VRT but I haven't figured out how to use half a bottle of VRT. It's not one of my favorite products. I just haven't really found a good way to use it

Looks great! Agreed In & Out is awesome. 
 
If you ever find yourself short, try VRT diluted 80/20 (water/VRT). First wash the bay with TRC and rinse. Then spray the VRT solution over all hoses, belts, plastics, etc, and simply close the engine bay. No need to dry, and as the engine dries either by air or warmth after driving, it will look awesome! Try it...

Last weekend, I washed the engine bay. Yesterday, I decided to try out In and Out Spray. That stuff is awesome!

 
 

Yes, APC is All Purpose Cleaner. Here is the Surface Prep that Adam's sells. This step cleans residue from the surface so that your Last Step Product is bonding to bare paint. I use 50% isopropyl from the pharmacy. I just dump a little bit on a borderless towel and wipe the car down after polishing.