Bscott94

Last weekend, I washed the engine bay. Yesterday, I decided to try out In and Out Spray. That stuff is awesome!

 
 

Last weekend, I washed the engine bay. Yesterday, I decided to try out In and Out Spray. That stuff is awesome!

 
 

Thanks Brian....last picture of Laguna Seca....it's turn 6, nearly flat out heading to the corkscrew.  Love that Adams shine!

Well guys I thought you knew me better than that, haven't you seen any of my previous posts, lol ! Of course I can get these scratches out ! No gauges needed here knowing how hard the clear coat is on Mercedes. I did the worst part of the scratches with Adams Heavy Correcting Polish, then did two more steps with Adams Correcting Polish and Finish Polish and then a coat of Adams Machine Sealant was applied and then topped off with a coat of Adams Americana Wax. Flex 3401 machine was  used and Adams correcting pads as well. Coat of machine sealant used on wheels and VRT applied on tires. Great products and techniques were used to bring the perfection back to this totally trashed paint, so don't let anyone tell you that you cant get scratches out of your paint if you have a mishap here and there. Here are some pics for you.   

I assumed the Visco is the most aggressive.
 
I personally would not use the three grades in succession. Just use the finer grades if they will do the job to avoid damage.  So for me, use whatever grade needed and then follow with polish if needed.

I use the Clay Mitt just due that I have bigger vehicles and it cuts my claying time in half. You should always plan on at least polishing after claying, pretty hard not to mar a vehicle.

So after a long winter, a buddy of mine leaves his Mercedes SL 500 in an outside shelter type of garage for cars. Over time this past winter, the front door where it comes together to enclose the car in the garage, had come apart somehow and had blown for months on the hood, front facia, headlights, passenger and drivers side quarter panels, totally trashing the paint and leaving behind lots of marring, scratching, water spots as well as blowing leaves etc all over the inside of the car shelter !! Do you think I can get these scratches out ? Check in the next couple days and I will post up the results...…...
 

Well they snuck that one in! I didn't even see it on Saturday. Too early for me to tell, Brandon, but the product descriptions of each on the website try to tell the differences. Beyond that, I'll have to defer to others. If no answer in the meantime, I'll ask tomorrow at the HQ (heading back up!).

WOW! I love that truck

Finally took some pictures after my latest wash yesterday. Snowing again this morning hahaha.

Wow, thanks so much Ray! Plenty more deserving people on here, but if that happened, I'd have to ask for only forum members to get a bottle 😁.

I'm not sure what that means. I have an empty DS bottle that I fill with water. I'd like a bottle that is actually labeled "Water" since it exists. 

You're one of the reasons that this is such a great community to share and learn. Congrats on the milestone!

Well, I somehow hit 3K "likes" yesterday, so a big THANK YOU to all who liked my inputs enough to hit that little icon 👍. This is such an awesome place to learn and be a part of...hats off to each of you for choosing such incredible products from the best detailing business out there 💯. @Team Adam's
 
And for @Sizzle Chest, I'd like to send you something for putting me over the top, and @Trevor, you, too, for getting me to 3001 and making up for someone's possible mistake of liking an input by accident 😆. Sending you both a PM now...
 

No.  Ceramic Waterless Wash, like regular Waterless Wash, is more of a cleaner and does not have the lubricity to be used for claying.  For typical claying, Detail Spray and diluted Rinseless Wash provide the lubricity.  But since these both leave wax or polymers, I had recommended claying the coating with shampoo suds.
 
Even when claying paint that has not heen coated, I still prefer claying with shampoo suds.  It provides great lubrication, and saves time when the claying is done as part of the wash process.  After the wash and rinse, foam it up again and clay, then rinse again.  This also saves the step of having to remove the claying residue with a towel before polishing or applying protection.  My thought is that this residue removal is a source of marring and scratching the paint.  While some contaminates do stick to the clay or mitt, some or even most are just knocked loose and reside in the residue.  So going after the residue removal with a towel is essentially just rubbing those contaminates around on the paint causing damage.  So, by using suds and claying as part of the wash, the claying residue is rinsed right off, which is safer on your paint.
 
This fact of contaminates getting knocked loose during claying and residing in the residue is why you should NEVER polish right over the residue, or apply wax or sealant right over the residue.  Polishing over the residue is the worst, since any contaminates in the residue get picked up in the pads and worked against the paint by the machine.  Also, the clay residue clogs up the pads making them less effective and increasing the time required for polishing.  And it does not matter that it has been done and people do it, it just does not make any sense. Even the time savings justification that it "skips a step not removing the residue" does not make sense, since the time lost to clogged-up pads far exceeds the minimal time it takes to remove the residue before polishing.
 
I know that I got a little carried away in this reply since that was not part of the original question, but just thought it should be discussed.

Yesterday, I was able to complete a full wash, polish and wax. 
 

We typically do both as maintenance. The iron remover makes the clay process easier. It’s not necessarily required as much as it is convenient. 
 
Coatings get their hydrophobic properties from water contact angles. So the smaller the surface of water, the less friction it has to hang on. So coatings by nature are slick. Now put bonded contamination on the paint and it gets a bit rough and interferes with that contact angle increasing the surface area. All of a sudden, the water can cling to the surface.
 
The same holds true of surface damage such as scratches or etching. Again, coatings are harder to damage but not impossible. The imperfections allow more for water to cling to. 
 
As an example, think of a freshly waxed floor. Pretty slick. Easy to fall on. Now scuff it up a bit with some contamination or some grippy texture tape and all of a sudden it’s not so slippery. Remove the tape, and the slippery condition is restored. 
 
Coated vehicles contaminate slower than non coated, but they do contaminate and will require maintenance. This is true regardless of whatever hype is out there (and some companies make some crazy claims). 
 
Hope this clears it up a bit. 

I agree. I'm not sure if they leave them in case they get another batch but there's a few items that I don't see coming back. I really hope the Barrett Jackson Detail Kit comes back. I missed it and I really want one

The wheel woolies look awesome. How hard would it be to make the drencher compatible with the spray nozzle that comes with the foam gun? I think it would be great to pop that on to really soak it down. I have trouble getting a consistent stream out of that sprayer but I love the quick connect to the foam gun. 

Thanks, @Dan@Adams! Been asking for a while about new wheel woolie handles. Even if my input wasn't taken into consideration, I still claim a little credit 😁...

Pics or it didn't happen!

It seems that when you click on a product, the size is mid range. Then you can select smaller or larger depending on your needs. It's kind of difficult to see the plus or minus signs. It may be clearer if they put the prices in the drop down instead how much more or less it is than the default selection. 

It seems that when you click on a product, the size is mid range. Then you can select smaller or larger depending on your needs. It's kind of difficult to see the plus or minus signs. It may be clearer if they put the prices in the drop down instead how much more or less it is than the default selection. 

Those numbers in the drop down menu are + or -. All off the new ceramic products are priced like this. It's kind of weird. 
1 towel is $6
2 pack is $10
6 pack is $28.