Mantis

Welcome to the forum. I use to be a professional Detailer back in my College years. I got my son into detailing, cars etc and now it's one of his favorite hobbies. Adam's makes great products. None of them are less than any other brand I have ever tried. My Son and I for years and years where trying anything we could get our hand on. Basically always liked the Adams version more or at least equal to. My Arsenal does have other brands in it but really it's until they are gone. New stuff we buy is only Adams unless we find something we want to try out. It's a problem when you go get into the as a hobby , so many things to try out. Sticking with just Adam's products you simply can't go wrong. We are converting over to Graphene slowly as out stock runs low. So cleaning the plastic trim or any rubber trim I like to use All Purpose cleaner cut 3 to 4 to one. I don't like to use it straight it's to strong. You can dilute it more if needed. CS3 is currently my favorite Adam's product. I'm just about out of it and I'm gonna try a bottle of the Graphene CS3. For the Camaro, a nice paste wax is really all you need or even any spray wax. It's probably a garage queen like my Charger is and when it doesn't see weather, the coatings last basically forever, even just a paste wax. Don't go over board there. The Film is a good idea, I use Painters tape at the track to product the bottom of the back where rubber gets all over everything after the burn out box.

So my CS3 gallon is just about out. I just filled my 16 oz bottle and there is about a bottle or less left. SO what do you guys think about the new Graphene CS3? Is it worth getting over just CS3? I'm thinking it's a go but would like some feedback of user who used both CS3 and Graphene CS3. I already have Graphene Detail spray and love that stuff. As soon as my current coating starts to fall off, I'm going Graphene Spray coating. My car is a garage queen so I could use basically Carnuba wax and be cool but you never know when you might be out of the garage and hit some bad weather. Thanks guys.

Welcome from Bucks County PA just above Philadephila

I'm with yeah on that. Black is extremely hard to take care of. It's hard just to wax and get that right let alone a full ceramic coating. I'm an x detailer and I won't mess with the coatings. I wasn't trained on it as they didn't exist when I detailed. I stick to Spray coatings and toppers and I get along just fine with our 3 vehicles. 2 sit outside and one is a garage queen. The 2 that sit outside do very well with the spray coatings and toppers. I don't see the need to risk it.

Hello, I don't understand the comment about having a brand new car and not doing a full paint correct. A paint correct is getting out any swirls , scratches etc before you protect it. It doesn't matter if it's brand new or 40 years old. The paint condition is the paint condition. Brand new cars are swirled and scratched just like a used car. When I purchased my car, I didn't allow the dealer to touch it. It came off the truck, went into the shop for new car inspection and then back out on the lot. I didn't allow them to clean it as they are horrible at it and usually scratch the hell out of your car. If I would have allowed them to detail it, I probably would have had to compound the entire car before I protected it. Your concerns about applying the coating are valid. I keep reading people having issues BUT if you don't prep correctly, you are setting yourself up for failure. I suggest if you know any detailers, I would ask them to help you or do it for you. If you never detailed a car, ran a Buffer , did proper paint correction then I don't suggest you do this yourself. Stick to wax or spray coating. You have less of a chance messing up your car. I say this as you made the comment about not doing a full paint correct on a new car. That didn't make any sense.

I was a Professional Detailer back in my College days. Prior to being a professional , I come from a family of car lovers. I already knew how to clean and hand wax a car properly. I leaned how to use a Wheel when I was a Lot guy prior to becoming a Detailer , so when I started , I already could run a Rotary Buffer. This was back in the late 80's early 90's. After I got hired as a Detailer, I was quickly moved up the chain and made manager then local manager which I was responsible to open new shops and hire a staff. We where in house sub contractors for dealerships. I had plenty of factory training from 3m , Maguires , C-Bud , Ardex and from a Body shop. I detailed freshly painted cars and wet sanded them from the body shop etc. We did new and used cars of all kinds. Anyway even with all those years of experience , I have never been properly trained on these coatings. They are a different level of difficulty as they are basically a form of glass coating. They have issues across the board from what I learned when they came out years ago and people are still having issues with them today. Professionals however who properly learn how to do them right , don't seem to have hardly any issues but run into the high spots as you did. So lets think about your issues. 1 your not a professional and have to been trained in the art of detailing as of todays standards. I don't agree with watching videos and then go applying that knowledge and think you can do it as good as the person in the video. I think practical experience and guidance in person on test panels is the way to avoid the issues you have having. 2 I think your paint prep also might be the issue. The Polish you used , some kind of 3 step you talked about also might be the issue. You may not have prepped properly and the coating is having issues bonding. 3 you might have used to much product. Front he video's it looks simple but even me with all my decades of experience detailing cars as a professional and a hobbyist many times apply to much product. From what I learned about these coating Ceramic and now Graphene , you need to manage your amount of product OR you will have issues. I honestly think you should stop fooling around with the coating and go get it fixed by a professional. I know you spent money on it and unless Adam's was willing to fly someone out to your house to fix it, I think this is the best way to get a proper coating on your car or cars. I know I said it already but I don't mess around with these coatings. I have messed around with most of the spray coatings on the market and even from many different brands have seen some smearing and messy results. One brand that is super popular right now I think sucks. I however have not had any issues with Adam's spray coating , detail sprays , toppers etc yet. My newest spray is the Graphene Detail spray. I want to move onto the Graphene spray coating to replace my current spray coating when it wears out. I use CS3 the last version before the Graphene and it's totally fantastic as a topper, waterless wash and touch up used like a detail spray. I love that product as it's my favorite Adams product. The Graphene detail spray is moving up that ladder quickly , it's stupid good and no smears at all. Don't take any of this offensively. As I said I have professional experience from the 90's and I don't mess with this coating. I'm afraid of them as my cars are way to important to experiment on them with something that is more permeant then wax sealant or spray ceramic coatings . I can remove them with a strip wash and polish, coating are way more durable. I hope you figure this out and get it to work on your own as I feel your gonna keep poking the bear. I probably would to if I had that much time invested But maybe actually reach out to Adams Tech support and maybe they can help you further if you haven't already. Good man.

This is exactly why I suggest a professional to do a actual coating. They have been trained in the art and they can fix high spots with ease. Doing it yourself I suggest using the Spray level coatings. I find no issues with them and you get about a year out of them. Toppers really help keeping them going over time. It's what I do and I have no issues. Sorry your having these issues man, it's not as easy as a professional makes it look.

I solved my Foam cannon by replacing the Orifice. Thanks guys for the advise, it worked and now mega foam is MEGA FOAM LOL.

You did not get taken, you got an experience with products you simply don't know how to use properly. You need to learn how to use the products correctly. Watching a few videos on YouTube don't make you a detailer. Hopefully you can fix your Q5 ( nice car by the way we have a S4 ) . If not look for a very good local detailer that can go over your car and fix it right. Make sure they are up to date and cutting edge. if your not willing to fix it yourself. You did make a nice entry level investment.

People who haven't owned these tires don't know the struggle we owners that detail go through. I find it crazy as popular as these tires are that companies like Adams' Polishes haven't come up with a solution to this issue. No other tire on the market that I know of have this issue. When we got our first set years ago for the Audi S4, I really thought someone clear coated something net to them and it was an amazing amount of clear coat over spray. Wheel and tire cleaner or any tire cleaner DOES NOT REMOVE the overspray like shinny spots on these tires. The ONLY thing I found to remove it is a TAR REMOVER. It's painful as you have to pull up a seat and work each spot. Once you get some kind of balance , then you need to use a wheel and tire cleaner to remove the left over Tar remover on the tires. You can get them nice but not perfect or "NORMAL" as I'll define it compared all other tires. As I have said a few times now, I except and prefer the Satin / Flat Black clean rubber look so I'm not horrified by it anymore. And I'll also say this again, the new DWS 06 Plus models have WAY LESS of this mess on the side wall. YES it's still there but I was able to much easier get them to a point I can live with. The older DWS06 however are WAY HARDER to get there and as I already said, I threw in the towel as each tire has way to much on each on and I don't feel like rubbing my fingers to the bone to get them nice. I just stopped dressing those tires and when they wear out, I will most likely get another set just replace them with the PLUS models unless I trade the car for something else. This issue sucks and IF these tires where 1% less awesome, I would not buy them ever again. BUT handling and traction is very important and these tires deliver in all conditions. Shame

I'm sure someone from Adam's will chime in but I believe the wash and cost is a different product then the Graphene shampoo. However I can see why your comparing them. I would use the Graphene Shampoo over the washer and coat. I'm planning on getting a bottle to try out. I don't see myself going with the wash and coat. I have a black car and I like to touch it up after a full maintenance wash with a detail spray.

I think the older DWS06 tires are worse than the new DWS06 Plus. Our Audi S4 has the older DWS06 's on them and I threw in the towel on them. They are a mess. However my Scat Pack has the DWS06 Plus on it and after Tar and a few cleanings over the last few months, the tires are now executable in appearance after a dressing. I do however have to go over them with an old microfiber towel after they are dressed and sit for awhile so I can get any remaining dressing out of the letters. They seem to hold dressing and it stays wet and then runs on the tire after you drive it. It doesn't sling but it makes streaks. Would I buy these tires again? Probably unless the Michelin's are that much better and worth the extra cost, then I would go that route but I don't think there is a better tire on the market. I can get them to look damn good. I like the flat/Satin look anyway. I don't like shiny tires or wet looking at all. Question, after using TAR did you clean your tires again? I think TAR leaves a bit of a film after you use it. Give it a week, clean the car again and then try dressing again. I think you can get them to look ok, the older DWS06's are bastards when it comes to getting them good. It takes so much more work on that model tire to get each on right. That's why I threw the towel in on them and just except them for that they are.

Tree sap sucks no matter what you use. You most likely are gonna have to polish after removing it. Tar is the way to go. But be gentle with it to minimize damage.

I will say this, it keeps you wanted more. It's also nice to have something to look forward to. Maybe it can get boring when you land all your products as you want them. But where is the fun in that?

Yes , that's exactly what I'm doing. I love the hell out of CS3, it's my favorite detail product of all time. And when Graphene was released, I wanted to jump on it. I did replace my detail spray with Graphene Detail spray, it's a excellent product. But I'm gonna wait as well until I'm on my last bottle of CS3 from my gallon and then get the Graphene Detail spray. Then at that time they will have yet another more improved version. It never ends.

How often should one use Strip wash?

I never clean the tire foam or blocks. Now I will instead of throwing them out after a few uses.

I'm so sorry this happened to you. I hope Adam's Polishes makes this right. It's in their best interest as many of us are following this thread with open eyes and ears. The Directions clearly stated as you applied the product. On another note, I have applied spray Ceramic Coatings from other manufacturers and did not have this issue. I also didn't not level It or work it into the trim pieces. I use CS3 and Graphene Spray wax from Adams and use it on the trim all the time with excellent results. I want to move up to the Graphene spray coating but after reading this thread, I hesitate to pull the trigger. You can't advertise a product that works on all exterior surfaces and then cause these kinds of issues. BUT there is still the possibility of user error and I wish you lived closer to Adam's Polishes so you could take the Vehicle there and have them look at it. Adam's makes wonderful products and I have been using them for years. I just moved into Spray Ceramics a few years ago and I'm kinda afraid of the actual Coatings. I have seen so many people make a mess of their vehicles with them , not from Adams but from other brands. Just saying here and not saying you didn't but prep is so important. If you don't prep properly , you will seal in bad stuff under a coating. Again not sayin that's what happened to you but I have seen it myself being a retired detailer.

I would absolutely send it back and want another gallon. It shouldn't do that.

I have not had this issue. I also store my products in my garage inside cabinets. They don't sit out or get any sun. I always shake up the bottle before use and haven't had any issues at all. I also have not ordered a gallon of Graphene detail spray, I have 2 16 oz bottles of it. Something seems wrong if it's doing that. That exactly is separating? That is the question as if something is doing that in the product then something could be chemically wrong.

I will pick up an Adam's Foam cannon. Mine isn't foaming nearly as much as I'd like. I have been using it with a Gas pressure washer for so long I'm use to putting any kind of car Shampoo it in and it working amazingly well. The Electric Pressure washer barely foams, very watered down but still works ok. I have not used Mega Foam on the Adam's Pressure washer yet, I have been out of it since I got it. I got some on the way. I don't think I can change my Foam cannon orifice. I looked on Amazon at it which is where I purchased it a few years ago, they still have it on there and it didn't seem to have any maintenance parts for it. Oh well it's a few years old it doesn't owe me anything.

I would apply it early in the morning before the sun comes up or late in the evening when the sun goes down. Protection should never be applied in direct sun. I don't care if it's made to do it or not. It's so much easier in the shade. I see you went Ceramic Graphene Spray wax which should work out very well for you. It would work much better if you do a proper wash, clay bar , Iron remover and then a full paint correction as needed. Once the paint if fully prepped , the protection layer will work it's best.

Yes the actual Tar Product from Adam's. I used Wheel and tire cleaner to get all the brown out but that didn't take the clear coat looking stuff on the tires off. How I did it was I used an old micro fiber towel and put some TAR remover on the towel and rubbed the marks on the tires. It got it off. This is a very common issue with DWS06 tires. This is my 2nd set and no it doesn't wear off every unless you remove it. To me it looks like when they made the tires, something happens in the molding process or the they got clear coat overspray on them from someone painting something near them. If these tires didn't perform as good as they do, I would go with Michelins but I find them to be an incredible performing tire for all my needs , well except Drag Racing which for my car requires a Drag Radial.

Thanks, My Wife is the only one who doesn't like it as much. She thinks the Gray is boring.She thought it would have looked better if I did the entire floor in the Black and white checkers. I wanted it to just be clean. If it wasn't for my son fooling around with the Swiss Trax floor designer, the entire floor would have been just Slate Gray. It was my intention with painting the concrete gray to match the flooring . He designed a Race Flag in and when he did that, I changed the ramps to red which looks awesome.

I finished it today, came out great. Hung my second Adams Sign as well.