BRZN

Factory tinted glass go ahead, no problem. I don't use Brilliant Glaze on tint film. The solvent in the Brilliant Glaze will break down the adhesive holding the film to the glass. Ray, I'd say you've been pretty lucky to this point!

Nice!

I've found if I have too much of a build up of certain products on the paint surface I'll get linting. Detail Spray, Spray Wax, even Americana or Patriot. Do a Strip Wash and Clay the vehicle as Falcaineer mentioned above.

I've had good luck with the Black Trim Restorer, waiting about 48 hours for it to thoroughly dry, then topping with Ceramic Paint Coating. I've also had similar results by using the Ceramic Black Trim Restorer on its own.

The Black Trim Restorer, topped with the Ceramic Paint Coating, has held up longer than the Ceramic Black Trim Restorer alone for me. They were, however, used on two dissimilar plastic trims, so...

Sure appears to be clear coat failure to me too. Re-finishing would be the removal of the rest of the clear coat that's remaining on the wheel, then re-clearing them. Polishing would be the removal of the remaining clear then polishing. Whoever you'd get to re-finish them may recommend polishing after the clear removal, before then clearing them.

It looks like I've also secured a Hand Wash Station that'll be set up by the portable toilets.

7 hours ago, Rich said:

How are you guys going to manage the whole social distance thing at the party Friday night?  I know you're spread out over two yards, but there's a LOT of people there.

We'll be spread out over two yards with about as many tables and chairs as we normally have in one yard. The beverage selections will be less, with my Team members wearing masks and gloves; handing out, or pouring the drinks. I'll have tape lines on the driveways at six foot intervals leading to the food and drink. Those serving food will be in masks and gloved.

Those attending will need to be smart enough to social distance themselves from others, this I can not control.

We've done three shows now, with me at a fourth and the Carlisle Import & Performance Nationals this coming weekend we'll be at. To date, none of my Team members have become ill.

It's a smaller version of the Ultra Plush Drying towel. I use them to dry the sides of vehicles. It's easier to keep the smaller towel from dragging on the ground by accident. I'll use them for wiping up Detail Spray as I clay a vehicle, and use them to dry a vehicle I'm Rinseless washing.

Welcome to the forum @Dale Gribble

After I wash my vehicles I blow them dry with my Master Blaster Revolution, I'll then wipe them down with CS3 to clean up anywhere water may have dripped and give the entire car the gloss I desire.

If I've not driven my vehicles much the day I washed and CS3'd them, the following morning I've been hitting them with Adam's new Slick & Slide. My gut feeling is that our new Slick & Slide is a direct competitor to Beadmaker. Try your Beadmaker in an inconspicuous area several hours after the CS3, like the lower rear section of a quarter panel to make sure the two play nice together, if they do, go ahead with the Beadmaker on the rest of the vehicle. Once your bottle of Beadmaker is gone try a bottle of our new Slick & Slide, I don't believe you'll be dissapointed!

Ford's last weekend was awesome!

I've noticed at each of the first three Carlisle events we've done this year, each show seems to have more and more folks wearing masks when they come into our booth. Again, all my staff are wearing masks. Even though, it can't be more than 1/4 of our customers with masks.

I checked with my guy for the Carlisle Events, if they've received notification of any folks that had been at the first two events coming down with COVID, his answer was no.

Adam still plans to be at Corvettes from Thursday through Saturday, and we're finalizing our plans for the customer appreciation party. I'm spreading us out in two yards this year, and will have my staff handling the beverages so there won't be many hands touching anything.

Marcello's for food and DJ Matt will be there again.

On 8/4/2020 at 6:46 PM, galaxy said:

Well, strike two for me on the new Polish. My truck is in excellent shape, but I wanted to put down new ceramic this year. Figured once over with Polish on a white pad would be the perfect recipe. Nope. Couldn’t figure it out at first, but the finish just wasn’t finishing out like I wanted it to. Got pretty aggravating.  Once I figured it out, I could go back over the new Polish with the old, orange Correcting Polish and that would actually finish down better.  Long story short, the best combo with the best finish was Correcting Polish on a new flat, white pad.  Darn near perfect.  The only thing that made it better was using the old Finishing Polish. But I don’t have enough to do the whole thing. But yeah, the new Polish just isn’t for me. 
 

I did have good luck with the new Compound in a few spots that needed just a bit of correcting.  But That required once over with something else behind it; either Polish or Correcting Polish.  The Compound is no where near fine enough to be left as the last step.  It needs further correcting, but you’d expect that. 
 

I know everyone had different luck with different products, and the surface is a big player too, but it looks like the new Polish is gonna leave a big gap for me, unfortunately. 

Jon, What color is the vehicle your working on? What make, model, year?

I agree with Chris. Do things right the first time. One coat is enough. Look over your work with the UV Flashlight and take care of any spots you'd missed. Multiple coats is a waste of time, effort, money in my mind.

I was able to test this one. You'll have a longer time before the product flashes than with the SiO2 Ceramic Coatings. Feel comfortable applying to an entire panel before leveling/buffing off the residue.

Treat the applicator and towels just the same as with the SiO2 Ceramic Coatings. Don't reintroduce them to painted surfaces.

There were still a fair amount of vendors in the Mid Way for both Spring Carlisle and the Chrysler Nationals. I was told show field registrations were only down by about 25% for both the Chevy Nationals and Chrysler Nationals. A lot of folks are still coming out.

Pics from the Chrysler Nationals about 3/4 the way up the hill. There's no where near the attendance at this show than there is at Corvettes

The Adam's Carlisle Team has been at Spring Carlisle, and on the Fairgrounds from June 15 through June 20, at the Chrysler National's on the Fairgrounds from July 8 through July 12. One of my Team members and I were at the Chevy National's June 26 and 27. The Carlisle Events staff has followed the CDC recommendations really well, none of my 13 Team members, nor I have gotten ill. Be safe, and be smart: wear a mask, social distance, avoid groups of people and you should be fine. This virus doesn't fair well outside in the sunlight and summer heat. A light breeze will carry it away.

We're still planning our annual customer appreciation party Friday evening outside the Fairgrounds, starting around 6:00. I'll have two tents set up in two yards this year so we can spread out. Adam will be in also.

The rescheduled Ford Nationals @ Carlisle will be held Friday July 31 through Sunday August 2

We'll be there with all your favorites, and perhaps a few goodies you've not tried before. Billy Lagle and Erin Marler will be on site doing details if you'd like to get a couple pros to take care of your ride before it gets judged. They own L&M Detailing out of Flora IL, and have been on site with us at a couple shows now. If you're interested contact @Dan@Adams to get yourself on the schedule before it fills up.

I washed the wife's daily yesterday on the driveway, in direct sun with the temp right at 90, with little to no water spotting. Oldest daughter gets married this afternoon, car needs to look its best! The shade on the driveway in the pictures wasn't there until I was done. I pulled it there to Boost the wheels and plastic trim, apply Tire Armor to the tires, and polish the exhaust tips.

Rinse the car down

Foam with Foam Cannon. or Foam Gun - leave the foam on the vehicle

Two bucket wash with your choice of Adam's PH neutral Car Shampoos - do not rinse until completely done washing, let the soap dry on the paint

Rinse entire vehicle

I then rinse with Reverse Osmosis filtered water. The RO filtered water has almost no minerals left in it and if it dries on its own, drys almost completely clear with no spotting.

Dry with an Air Cannon

Wipe down any remaining soap residue with Waterless wash, or apply H2O Guard & Gloss using the Dry Method

On 7/16/2020 at 11:49 PM, stay_tuned said:

i’m considering the mtm pf22.2 anyone first hand on longevity?

As I put in the post just above yours:

The key to longevity with a Foam Cannon is to run clear water, using the pressure washer, through the thing after every use to keep the internals clear of soap. The soap will dry inside plugging the thing up.

The first Foam Cannon I had years ago stopped working properly. I disassembled it and found there to be a wad of course stainless Steel/Steel Wool inside, near the air flow dial. I'd not been rinsing this one out after use and it was clogged with dried soap. I soaked the wadding (once removed) in hot water and APC for several hours to clean the dried soap out, put it back together and it's still working fine today. I bought one of the MTM PF22.2 Foam Cannons when Adam released them a couple years ago, it's still working fine.

I just wiped my 9H Ceramic Coated vehicle down with Rinseless Wash mixed as Waterless Wash. It rained shortly afterwards and the paint beaded up the same as if I'd used Ceramic Waterless Wash, CS3, or Ceramic Boost.

Don't over think it. Try in a small area of a flat panel. Check for streaks, they spray some water on to see if you're getting your desired results.

I've got Adam's Standard Foam Cannon, which is just the Red Foam Cannon with black external plastic pieces. I've also got the Limited Edition Foam Cannon, and the MTM Hydro PF22.2 Foam Cannon.

My go to is the Standard, or Red Foam Cannon.

The key to longevity with a Foam Cannon is to run clear water, using the pressure washer, through the thing after every use to keep the internals clear of soap. The soap will dry inside plugging the thing up.

Pretty nice turn out

Noon Wednesday vs. Friday morning at 9:00

I, like Norton above, have been able to clean up Matte vinyl stripes using the 15mm Swirl Killer on speed 2, or 3 with a black pad and Fine Machine Polish. Adam's new polish should do just fine. Move fairly quickly so not to build any heat, and I'd suggest trying in an inconspicuous spot first to make sure you'll do no harm. Excessive heat with soften the adhesive underneath, however, just think how hot the stripes are getting that have been placed on a black car that's out in the summer sun. Protect with VRT, Matte Detailer, or Brilliant Glaze. Be aware, anything you do to Matte stripes will slightly take away from the original Matte finish.

Metal Polish #1 followed up with Metal Polish #2. Protected with Ceramic Spray Coating.

Resistall's website doesn't do a thorough enough job explaining what their product is. Adam's Bug Remover will most likely remove it if it's a Sealant. Part of the explanation of one of the products makes it sound like a Sealant: 

exterior protection takes advantage of positively-charged particles to combine with the negatively charged surface of a vehicle. A wet exterior facilitates the movement of the positive charge, enabling it to attach to and spread over the negatively-charged painted surfaces through electrostatic attraction.

Static attachment, how waxes and sealants stay on a surface. 

It goes on further to state:

The protectant also includes nanoparticles, which create a hydrophobic high gloss finish

But there's no explaination of what the nanoparticles are; SiO2? Graphene? Metal Oxide? These nano particles bond to the paint, not attach statically.

There's just not enough information to safely make a recommendation. I'd suggest contacting who installed the product.