BRZN

I'll add to Chris above.

I think of the middle ground you're asking for, being the new Blue Foam Pad with the Compound, and yes, it finishes down quite nicely with this combination on all I've tried it on but the darker colors.

Most Aggressive - Compound on Microfiber Pad

Middle Ground - Compound on Blue Foam Pap

Finish - Polish on New White Foam Pad

I only used Compound on this car between Christmas and New Year's using the Microfiber Pad, and finishing with the Blue Foam Pad:

So if I’m seeing it correctly, the tube inside the container is pinched, not allowing chemical through. 
How about cutting the tube above the pinch and sliding a more pliable piece of hose over the plastic tube?

9 hours ago, Detailbuster09 said:

So I bought Adams interior cleaning gun that is some what like the toranda.  I have a pinched to inside of the cleaning on that pushes product out and I cannot find it anywhere in the Adam side or on the web on where I can order a new to rain so I can keep using Adam’s interior cleaner gun it’s definitely one of the best I’ve used but that’s the problem is I can’t find any parts replacement for it all I can do is just buy a new gun every time the tubing gets pinched but let me know so 

Show a picture of what you need to replace

2 hours claying the hood? 15 minutes with 2500 grit wet sanding and it would be gone.

Residue before rinsing, well yea, there will be.

Are you washing the entire vehicle, then rinsing the entire vehicle? If that's how your doing it, some may be drying on the paint leaving the residue behind. A little Detail Spray on a non Ceramic Coated vehicle or CS3 on a Ceramic Coated one while you dry will take care of any residue left behind.

I've applied the Ceramic Glass Wipes to all my personal vehicles. They're two part, with Part A being the Ceramic, and Part B being a Glass Sealant. If you decide to use the wipes understand Part A needs applied quickly, exactly as the instructions state. I mean quickly, like run from one side of the vehicle to the other, then run back to the first side to apply Part B.

Do not use the Green Glass Towel provided in the kit to remove the Part B product residue, use an Edgeless Utility Towel instead. The Edgeless Utility Towel has more bite to it and makes removing the residue much easier. Be aware, residue removal is a chore and requires some scrubbing with the towel and provided Glass Cleaner. If some residue remains, and is seen later I've had success removing it with just a dry Microsilk Glass Towel and some elbow grease.

Once the product is on the glass it remains for months with only an occasional addition of Glass Sealant to add back the hydrophobic properties.

Several on this forum has used it and had problems removing the residue. I've found that even with some residue still on the glass it doesn't affect visibility driving during the day or night. The residue will eventually go away even without trying to remove it with the Microsilk Glass Towel.

Light rain shower Saturday night after workin' a little 'sumpin on here Saturday afternoon ☺️ Sunday morning pics:

19 hours ago, PilotG97 said:

1) I’ve been reading a few post about how you don’t have to use wheel cleaner and tire & rubber cleaner for every maintenance wash. So will car shampoo suffice for the wheels and tires in between big details ? 
 

2) How long does tire dressing last ? More specifically Tire Shine or VRT. Do I need to reapply after every weekly wash ?
 

3) I’m more than positive that my OEM wheels are polished aluminum, but I haven’t done the test with the metal polish and applicator yet. If it turns out the wheels are not raw aluminum and are clear coated, can I use polish with my mini SK ? Or do I need use something like hand polish ? 
 

4) How can I protect my wheels and tires ? I’m waiting on ceramics till the winter time. Trying to figure out what product to use to seal/protect them for the time being. 
 

5) I have the Visco clay bar kit. Will detail spray be okay to use as lube on the wheels when I clay them ?

I wash my vehicles tires and wheels every time I wash them. Why have a nice clean vehicle with water spots or dirt on the wheels? If your wheels are Ceramic Coated and there's Tire Armor on the tires Car Shampoo will be more than enough to keep them clean.

Tire Shine lasts longer than VRT. Tire Shine is water prof while VRT is water resistant. I reapply after every wash.

The wheels on the car in your picture appear to be the stock wheels that came on the car. Those would not be polished raw aluminum but painted silver and cleared. This is what polished aluminum looks like:

If you want to wait on Ceramic Coating the wheels until winter you have many choices in our line; Buttery, Americana, or Patriot Wax, Paint Sealant or H2O Guard & Gloss, Ceramic Boost, or CS3.

Detail Spray is what's recommended as the clay lubricant. Doesn't matter if you've got Visco, Medium Grade, Fine Grade or our Clay Mitt.

After a wash and dry I go over my wheels with Ceramic Boost, CS3, or Matte Detailer. The black satin wheels my my wife's Camaro are the worst for showing areas I've missed or didn't scrub thoroughly enough. The Matte Detailer takes care of them perfectly.

I do use the Glass Sealant on top of the Ceramic Spray Coating, and it works just fine.

Here's my thought on it:

The two part Ceramic Glass Coating Wipes have a Part A which is the Ceramic Coating and a Part B which is a Glass Sealant. The Glass Sealant Part B allows the wiper blades to glide across the glass without chatter and adds the hydrophobic properties to the combo. By adding Glass Sealant over top of the Ceramic Spray Coating you're doing the same thing, letting the wipers move smoothly over the glass and helping with the water shedding properties.

Carlisle Events has just notified me the Ford Nationals held on their Fairgrounds, usually early June, has been rescheduled to July 31-August 2.

Good job Chris!

If you're seeing the streaking with only the UV light and not with the vehicle out in the sunlight, you're fine. In order to replicate the appearance of what's see in the promotional videos under the UV light you'd need to lay down way more product, which I don't believe is necessary to get a nice layer of Ceramic Coating on the paint surface.

No pressure as you apply, you just wipe it on.

I place a line of product on the center of the long wide surface of the applicator.

You should be applying the Coating with the Suede applicator included in the kit.

I won't do the roof of any vehicles any more often than the rest of its paint.

I remove any high spots with Ceramic Spray Coating. A light polish may remove too much product, especially if it hasn't fully cured yet. Brilliant Glaze can be used to knock down high spots too.

The high spots are what you see after you've buffed the residue down, not what's seen as you apply. Don't worry about overlapping too much as you apply.

The video can be quite helpful

Mine looks like that, works just fine.

 Both below cars were waxed with the Patriot this winter:

As Chris stated above, check with Obsessed Garage. You may need to disassemble the pressure washer to get to it's female connector. Hopefully it can be easily removed and a standard fitting put on it place of the machine's propitiatory one.

You might want to hit the paint with our Polish on a White Foam Pad. If the swirls are in the coating and not through, you may be able to remove them without completely removing the Ceramic Coating. Follow up the light polishing with the Ceramic Paste Wax to add back some protection and add to the longevity of the Coating that's still on the vehicle. Then use the Ceramic Boost to help maintain the Ceramic Paste Wax.

If the swirls are deeper, through the Ceramic Coating, the coating's already gone where they are.

I use the 32oz Dilution Bottles or the IK Multi Sprayer.

Sure, you can use the Spray Wax as a stand alone, as long as you're aware of its minimal longevity and protection. The product is infused with carnuaba wax, which is in Adam's Buttery, Americana, and Patriot Paste Waxes..

You could try, however Brilliant Glaze has only minimal filling properties and most likely won't take care of your light swirls. Try in an inconspicuous area first, just to make sure the two different chemicals play nice with each other to leave streaks. Also, Brilliant Glaze not being topped with another product isn't going to last past the washing, if that long.

Here's a trick if you pack Polish, Wax, Glaze, or Sealant at any edges of PPF. Use the plastic tooth pick from a Swiss Army Knife. Stay at a pretty steep angle so you don't go under the edge and you should be able to remove the residue. The tooth pick is plastic and won't scratch the paint.

H2O Guard & Gloss is a water activated Synthetic Sealant. Ceramic Boost is synthetic, and made specifically to apply over Ceramic Coatings to provide gloss and hydrophobic properties as well as extend the coatings longevity.

Joe, do you know what the stains are from? With the trim being satin you'll want to be careful what you put on it that you don't end up polishing it to leave more of a gloss appearance.

A few of our products I'd try first are:

Any of the three clays; Fine, Medium or Visco

TAR, Tar & Adhesive Remover

Brilliant Glaze, specifically the solvent that separates to the top when it sits for a while

Bug Remover, work this in small areas out of the sun, and don't let it dry. Thoroughly rinse it off as you go

Depending what the stains are from you may even want to try Iron Remover

Hope this helps.

As stated above, treat the Clear Bra material just like paint. Clay, glaze, natural waxes, synthetic sealants, and Ceramic's are all fine. When I polish I'll only use minimal abrasives and the softer polishing pads at a slower speed machine setting than on paint; 3 works okay with the Swirl Killers. Right now in our line up that's the white Polish, and White Foam pad. Most of the now available Clear Bra materials have a self correcting ability, so polishing isn't much more than really deep cleaning the film. If there are scratches, they're through the upper layer and didn't self heal, polishing won't correct this.

Hard for sure

Chris, No one had, or has a crystal ball to know what this pandemic has and will do to our "normal" lives. Everything has changed, and it's done so quickly. Hind site, being what it is, dictates that perhaps, some things could have/should have been done differently. But no one knew.

I'm working on a task with my day job right now, where taking your above comments and changing them from a car care company to a dairy cooperative would be almost the identical situation.

Take a deep breath, and relax...