BRZN

I can get the same look, I believe, from the waxes or coatings; Spray or the traditional Paint Coating.

To me it's the longevity I get from the coatings vs. the waxes.

Spray Wax lasts me through about one wash, but does help maintain wax already on a vehicle.

Buttery lasts a month tops for me.

Americana and Patriot last several months

Guard and Gloss about four months

Paint Sealant about six months

The original 7H Ceramic Paint Coating we offered in 2017 began to fail on me through this past summer 2 years! I wasn't able to maintain those coated cars like I'm able to now with Wash & Coat, Ceramic Waterless Wash, and the Ceramic Spray Coating and Ceramic Paste Wax. The cars are not garaged and outside 24/7/365

I applied the current 9H Ceramic Paint Coating to my Dodge Magnum in early fall and to the Chevy Camaro the week before Christmas.

The GTO has the V1 Ceramic Paste Wax on it. This car is garaged and only taken out on nice days, Cruise Ins, and Shows.

The Subaru was a customers car and was protected with Spray Wax. This car was fully detailed but not polished. The above cars were polished prior to coating or waxing.

Furyan,

With the products you'd mentioned in your OP I'd recommend applying the Ceramic Paste Wax V1 and wipe it down every couple/few washes with the Ceramic Boost. After each wash wipe down the wheels with the Ceramic Boost. Use the Brilliant Glaze to keep your interior glass spotless.

On your post just above you can use the Detail Spray as a drying aide after washing if you'd like, it won't hurt anything. Go ahead and use the regular Waterless Wash and Rinseless Wash as you would on any vehicle.

With the Ceramic Paste Wax on the paint there would be no need for the Buttery Wax, H2O Guard & Gloss, or Spray Wax.

Fantastic Chris!

Green Severe Swirl Remover

Orange Swirl & Haze Remover

White Fine Machine Polish

Red Brilliant Glaze/Wax pad

Grey Machine Super Wax

Blue Metal Polish

Brand of Foam Cannon?

In the 16 months you've owned it have you used it before running the Mega Foam Car Shampoo through it?

Looks like you state you've used it about 24 times already from your question above.

After using it for those 24 times did you run clear water through it after every use?

How much Mega Foam did you put in the jar?

Did you mix the Mega Foam in the jar with cold, warm, or hot water?

Gas powered, or electric pressure washer?

Pressure Washer's rating of PSI and GPM?

I've disassembled the units before. The ones I've taken apart have a wad of what appears to be a very course steel wool inside. When this steel wool gets clogged with Car Shampoo, it diminishes the foaming action of the Cannon. Soaking this wad in straight APC overnight and thoroughly rinsing with warm water has cleaned them back to as an new condition. It's pretty important to run clear water through the head after foaming a vehicle. I simply remove the jar and pull the trigger for several seconds to clean things up.

I keep a Microsilk Towel in a baggie, in the map pocket on all my vehicles driver's side doors. If I see a streak on the inside of the glass a quick wipe with this very under rated towel takes care of the issue. No product required, just the dry towel.

It'll take a machine. Try using Adam's Compound on a Microfiber Pad, that should remove the Ceramic Coating with a nice slow pass or two.

Ha, thanks for catching that Nick. Dan and I will be available for autographs at Spring Carlisle 2020! 🤣

Jack you should be fine with the time wait between the Ceramic Spray Coating and the application of the Ceramic Boost. I tend to wait until the product has cured before the Boost is applied; 24-48 hours after Ceramic Coating, or 4-6 hours after Ceramic Spray Coating. You want the solvent in the product to completely dissipate.

Spring of 2019 I Ceramic Spray Coated my Dodge Magnum on a day with a very low percent chance of any rain, and within an hour of completing it's application a light shower passed by. It had no affect on the Ceramic Spray Coating. The car beaded like a boss all summer. The solvent dissipates pretty quickly in the spray product, and with your temp at 80, you're fine.

9 hours ago, Bscott94 said:

Hey Dave, were you at Bloomington Gold show in Indianapolis this past summer? 

No, I pretty much just stick to the Carlisle Events right now. Every once in a while I might show up somewhere, but wasn't at Bloomington Gold this past summer.

Hi Tom, Dave here, I run the Shine Team on the Carlisle Fairgrounds for Adam, thanks for your interest and question. Up until this past Corvette Show of 2019 we'd never charged for detailing on site in Carlisle. We use folks vehicles in our Midway space to demo products, not do full details, and as such we don't charge. We'll most likely be doing details at a fee again in 2020 at the Corvette show, but the prices haven't been set yet. In 2019 we had several different packages available, and then up-charged for specific requests by customers beyond what the package covered.

Once we get closer to the show(s) we'll be charging for details at we'll announce here and list the prices for the services, may even do booking here too.

There's a chance there's polish residue there. Wipe the area down thoroughly with Surface Prep, or Isopropyl Alcohol to see if you can remove it. There may be no color transfer onto any of the pads depending if you've gone completely through or not. How deep was the scratch, could you catch it with your fingernail?

As mentioned above, any of the Car Shampoos will be fine. The Ceramic infused ones would be better to maintain the coating, but not necessary. I'll clay my Ceramic coated vehicles every six months, then apply Ceramic Spray Coating. Do a baggie test after you've washed it to find if any embedded contaminates remain. The clay may lessen the coating slightly, however the Ceramic Boost should put back most all you'd have removed. Mechanical action, not chemicals is required to remove ceramic coatings.

Adam's did answer in the thread I attached. Dan answered and works for Adam's and is an Administrator to this forum. I too do part time work for Adam running the Carlisle, PA Events for him as well as beta testing products. My subsequent use of the Edgeless Utility Towel to remove Part B streaks was at the recommendation of Adam's, as well as being told my application that streaked could have been due to elevated relative humidity.  If you need more you're going to have to call them and not wait on a response here...

Sorta the same as Shane mentioned above /\

Smooth trim, yea, perhaps an abrasive sponge like Adam's Deep Clean Eraser would work, if it's textured trim I don't believe it would get down into the low spots. Chemicals aren't supposed to be able to remove Ceramic coatings, Mechanical action is needed. However, if the new Wheel & Tire Cleaner was eating through the PETE bottles, you may want to give it a try. The Ceramic Coatings will only layer over themselves a few times, after that they don't stick to themselves. With that being stated, try adding more coats on top of what you've already laid down. There may be a point where it's all the same level.

Your issue was brought up before:

The first vehicle I applied it to acted exactly as you stated, and I too followed the instructions exactly. I applied it to a second vehicle this past weekend and used an Edgeless Utility Towel to remove the residue, I had no streaks this time. There was a slight haze that appeared and was easily removed with a Single Soft Microfiber Towel. The relative humidity on my second try was down to just below 50%. 

South Central PA here. My Dodge Magnum doesn't see many miles through the winter and sits undisturbed on the driveway until spring. I've opted, not to use a cover on this vehicle I've had in my possession since 2007. My fear is if the wind blows and the cover gets flapping I'll have scuffs and scratches to polish off come spring time. This vehicle has been Ceramic Coated since Adam came out with the product and the finish on the Magnum is near flawless , and now very well protected. I look the vehicle over regularly through the winter, and remove any bird crap, leaves, etc if they're on the paint using Waterless Wash if needed. Inside the garage I'll often use a cover if a vehicle will sit longer

then a couple months. I've found it safer just to clean the inside cars with Rinseless Wash every six weeks or so from any dust that may settle on them rather than covering them. My GTO has had three different covers since I purchased it in the spring of 2007, each one has been a better quality (read more expensive) cover than the previous; you get what you pay for...

GTO with its original cover for a long winter storage inside:

No, use the Ultra Plush Towel, much better option in my opinion.

On 10/27/2019 at 11:22 PM, tlbullet said:

    Anybody have any clues why The paint would hAve that many swirls???

 I dry my cars with a cordless blower, use CWW and clean MF.  I also use the foam gun with each wash.  I use a separate ”wheels only” bucket and sponges/brushes.  I have a grit guard in my wash bucket..... I wash exterior MF separately using MFR.  Also have 2 coats of CPW on it as well.  

  I couldn‘t possibly be missing anything????   i was just hoping that after installing CC last year, and more careful wash techniques I wouldn’t be doing this all over again a year later.🤷🏼‍♂️

Just leaving you my $.02 From everything else you'd mentioned My gut points towards your drying process and the leaf blower...

🤣🤣🤣

Brian, agreed, however with what he's shown in the pictures, experience tells me, the Paint Finishing Polish and White Foam pad aren't going to do anything, and the Paint Correcting Polish and Orange pad will take so many passes he'll need several Orange Foam pads to finish the job that way because they'll wear out.

I'd be willing to bet a bottle of a limited product of mine that you don't have against a limited bottle of yours that I don't have he's going to need several passes with the Heavy Correcting Compound.

Start with Heavy Correcting Compound on either the Microfiber or Blue Foam pad using the 15mm LT Swirl Killer. Several passes are most likely going to be needed before moving to Paint Correcting Polish and Orange Foam pad.

Dry with a cordless blower? A cordless leaf blower? Air passing through that isn't filtered like it is when passing through Adam's Air Cannon. Any dust/dirt/debris that passes through a leaf blower is being sent directly to the water on the vehicle. You state you then wipe the surface down with the Ceramic Waterless Wash and a Microfiber Towel. You could very well be getting the marring on the paint from your wipe down.

I wait a full 90 days before any glaze/wax/sealant/coating after paint work. Once I get the car back from the body shop I'll do a full correction on the panel(s) that were painted, including wet sanding if needed; right away, like within days. The cut and buff done by most body shops isn't complete enough to give a good panel match; swirls and holograms, the paint's cured enough to wash, sand, and polish. While you wait the 90 days look over texture of the orange peel to match the neighboring panels and any clear coat shrinkage that may occur. Don't worry about not having protection on those panels for the 90 days, you'll be fine, just keep it clean.

Detail Spray is fine, so is Waterless Wash (not the Ceramic infused one), and Rinseless Wash.