Dan@Adams

Hi Andy, and welcome to the forum, I do apologize that no one got back to you on this thread, I'm just seeing it now! Do you have any pictures of these white dots showing up? Are they on paint, glass, textured plastics, or all areas? Make sure to always shake up the Ceramic Boost bottle thoroughly before every use to mix all of the chemicals back together. You could also try to clean out the spray nozzle in a bottle of water only - it's possible that some of the chemical dried up in the spray, which is then going onto the surface of the vehicle. Spray water through the nozzle until only clean water comes out, let the nozzle dry, then insert it back into the bottle. With Ceramic Boost, less is more, so I typically only use 2 or 3 sprays for a panel, and I always use two towels with it - one towel to spread the chemical onto the surface evenly, and then a second towel to wipe away the remaining residue. I would also recommend for the surface to be fairly cool to the touch when you apply it. The other thought I have is how recently have the vehicles been clayed or polished? If there is some bonded contamination on the surface, that may not allow the Ceramic Boost to wipe away as easily, which could be the culprit for the white dots. As a test, you could try to clay a small section, Surface Prep, and then apply Boost in that spot to see if it differs from the rest of the vehicle. Let us know how it works out, thanks!

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To add to what Chris said, you could certainly put a layer of Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating on top of your existing coating to sort of refresh and re-up the coating; however, you will want to do a very thorough wash and Surface Prep at a minimum before applying the Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating. It's also important to note that it will not last as long on the surface since it is trying to bond to an already cured layer of ceramic coating, rather than bare clear coat. You could then maintain with Graphene Detail Spray. To reduce some of the confusion, here are some general combinations for maintenance-type products. Keep in mind that these are not concrete, and you can try out different maintenance products to see which you like best! Graphene Ceramic Coating and Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating will be best maintained with Graphene Detail Spray, since they're all in the graphene oxide family of products, but you can use SiO2 maintenance products like CS3 and Ceramic Boost as well with no issue. UV Ceramic Paint Coating, UV Ceramic Wheel Coating, UV Ceramic Spray Coating, Ceramic Coating Wax, and Ceramic Spray Coating will be best maintained with SiO2-based products since they're all in the SiO2 family of products. These would include CS3, Ceramic Boost, Ceramic Waterless, Ceramic Liquid Wax, Rinse + Coat, etc. Using Graphene Detail Spray would be fine as well. Paint Sealant, a synthetic sealant would be best paired with H2O Guard & Gloss, another product in the sealant family, but you could use Graphene Detail Spray and SiO2-based products too. Waxes like Americana Paste Wax, Buttery Wax, and Patriot Wax would pair best with Spray Wax or Detail Spray. Then there are a few wildcards like Detail Spray, Slick & Slide, and Waterless Wash. Detail Spray and Slick & Slide have small amounts of polymer protection and can be paired with any of the above with nice results. For Detail Spray, keep in mind that while it will not hurt coatings, it's not necessarily the best product to use on them, and may slightly alter some of the hydrophobic behavior of coatings. Waterless Wash works excellent on any of the above as well.

Ouch, sorry about that Ray! As a warning, I would be hesitant to use Tire & Rubber Cleaner on powder coated running boards as well - it's good to hear that it works well for you, but it is intended for rubber and textured exterior plastics. Some powder coating is much more durable than others, so I'll usually just use Car Shampoo and water, or I'll go to Eco All Purpose Cleaner if I need a little more aggressive cleaning. Revive Hand Polish should hopefully bring those back if you have any, but it may take an application or two. Again, sorry for the frustration there

Hi there, there are some great suggestions in here! As far as finding our products, yes we're mainly an online-based retailer; however, many Chevrolet dealerships now carry some of our product line, including a Waterless Wash Kit with the 16oz bottle and Waterless Wash Towels if you would like to try it out before grabbing the gallon. Waterless Wash is without question one of the products I use the most. It's great for removing dust and light dirt, cleaning up an engine bay, door jambs, and I use it as a drying aid after a full wash sometimes too! I like that it's ready-to-use - no diluting or mixing needed, just grab the bottle and start spraying. I'll typically use around 2-4 ounces for a light cleaning, but for heavier cleaning of bugs on the front bumper and so on, I will end up spraying more heavily and use 8 ounces or so, just like Chris mentioned. So usually 2-4 vehicles per bottle. Then you would get 8 full bottles out of a gallon. If cleaning one car at a time, the spray bottle is fine and my hand doesn't cramp up from squeezing the spray trigger. If I'm going to be cleaning multiple vehicles (like at one of our events), I'll use the IK Multi Pro 2 Sprayer to make the process a little easier 👍 If you are looking to save money and don't mind mixing, Adam's Rinseless Wash can be diluted 1oz to 16oz of distilled water to make a Waterless Wash-like spray solution. So you could actually make 16 spray bottles from one 16oz bottle!

What Dave said ^^^^. Plastics from different manufacturers can react differently, especially depending on the prep work that was involved to remove any previous dressings and so on. Some customers have been experiencing a small amount of white chalky appearance on certain trims if you do not level and wipe it away, so I agree with Dave in that you should level and wipe any of our coatings on plastic trim just to be safe.

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The Guz nailed it ^^^^. If you clay the glass, I would recommend using Glass Cleaner as the clay lubricant, rather than Detail Spray. For the exterior trim, yep I would use the Trim Cleaner on black plastic trim, clean it at least twice. Then I would go back over it again with Surface Prep two times, to make sure that it is 100% clean. With textured plastic, once you apply the coating, it cannot really be removed, so you must have it as clean as possible first. You MUST also level and wipe away the coating from plastic trim to ensure that it does not leave any type of white residue afterward. For headlights, I would Clay, Compound (optional if needed), Polish, Surface Prep, and then coat. The Trim Cleaner is not necessary for headlights. For paint, you're correct in that you would clay, Compound (optional if needed), Polish, Surface Prep, and then coat - same as headlights 👍

Hi Joey, and welcome to the forum! Our ceramic coating offerings, and now our graphene coating offerings can have a little bit more tension to the feel of the paint than something like a sealant or wax, since once they cure and bond to the paint, it is leaving a microscopic "glass" layer on the surface. This is why we say to maintain the coatings about once or twice month with something like Ceramic Boost, CS3, or the new Graphene Detail Spray, as the spray products will bring back that super slick feel onto the surface of the coating. Sometimes even just a wash with Mega Foam or Wash + Coat soap will remove any small impurities and bring back a more slick feeling to the surface. So basically the coating gives you the more durable protection against stains, etching, light scratches/swirls, and so on, plus the hydrophobic water-repelling behavior, and then the maintenance products will add the slick feeling back on top!

Love that color, and love me a clean Camaro!

As Dave has mentioned, I don't use Brilliant Glaze on aftermarket tint, only if I need to remove some really stubborn grease, animal saliva, etc in a spot or two. I never apply it to the edge of the window where the tint film ends for the very reason Dave mentions - I do not want it to weaken the adhesive at the edge. Essentially I treat window tint just like vinyl graphics, pinstripes, and racing stripes on paint, I stay away from the edges on those too! One mist of our green Glass Cleaner with a clean Green Glass Towel is usually enough to get a tinted window looking great. The other potential issue with tint film is that it can be much easier to scratch than plain glass, so if you have even one little piece of grit or dirt in your applicator if you were to apply Brilliant Glaze on tint, you could then scratch it. I did this on my old Trailblazer SS that had some faded and failing tint, as I wanted to see if I could do anything to bring it back a little, and I ended up using too much pressure with the applicator, which happened to catch a piece of dirt from the felt portion of the window track and then scratch the tint.

It does have some alcohol in it (to prevent freezing), so it could potentially weaken Glass Sealant over time and repeated use; however, it does have its own polymer protection, so it will enhance the Glass Sealant already on the windshield surface. No it should not stain paint. As with any type of windshield washer fluid, there is potential for streaking if you are driving quickly and would spray it to then have it roll up onto the roof.

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Yep! That would be a perfect order of operations

Since it is a polish, it would at least weaken any wax or sealant protection, if not remove it entirely.

It's at the $19.99 price point compared to $24.99 for the 16oz bottle. VRT and H2O Guard & Gloss are $19.99 at the 16oz size, and those are the most expensive of the free bottles for this promotion 👍

1) Like galaxy said, I would still keep Brilliant Glaze around to help with any high spots during application of the coating, and then it can be used on your exterior and interior glass to cut through film on the windshield too. You DO NOT want to put Brilliant Glaze down before the Graphene Ceramic Coating (if you are used to applying Brilliant Glaze before Paint Sealant in your current regiment). Graphene Ceramic Coating must be applied to the bare, polished clear coat surface to bond correctly. 2) Graphene Detail Spray and CS3 would be my preferred maintenance products now for a Graphene Coated vehicle. You can also use Ceramic Boost, Slick & Slide, and the current version of H2O Guard, since it does contain a small amount of SiO2 in it now (designated by the red oval "With Hybrid Technology" on the front of the bottle label). 3) Yep, if the wheel coating has been on your wheels for a while, Graphene Spray Coating can be applied onto them to extend the protection, but it is not necessary. I would recommend doing a very thorough cleaning with blue Car Shampoo or Eco Wheel Cleaner, then wiping them down with Surface Prep before applying the spray coating. 4) For plastic trim, VERY thoroughly clean the trim first. Any previous dressings - VRT, In & Out, etc - need to be removed. Clean the plastic trim two or three times with Trim Cleaner or Tire & Rubber Cleaner, then wipe it two or three more times with Surface Prep (using a different towel for Surface Prep). You can then apply the Graphene Ceramic Coating, or the Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating, but you MUST level the plastic trim and wipe away the residue just like you would do with paint, glass, and chrome. We have seen some customers that have had plastic trim pieces discolor and have a white chalky appearance if you do not level and wipe the coating off. For this reason, I've been sticking with our Non-UV Ceramic Spray Coating on plastic trim. I think he meant that, if it is streaking for him now, would diluting it with distilled water help with that. Rather than dilute, I would recommend the "Less is More" approach and use a lighter amount of spray per panel, with two towels for removal. Use the first towel to wipe away the majority of the residue, then take a second dry plush towel to wipe away the remaining residue. Ceramic-type products do require a little more working into the surface and wiping than something like our normal pink Detail Spray. Working in the shade on a cool surface will be easier to work with than a warm surface in the sun as well 👍

Yep, to add to what Rich said, our UV Ceramic Wheel Coating is 9H as well, and the new Graphene Ceramic Coating is rated at greater than 9H.

Hi John, great questions! Graphene Detail Spray can be used as a drying aid or after a wash, but like with any protection product, there is a possibility of build-up if you are using it heavily and frequently. Once a week or bi-weekly should be fine, but you may want to make a fresh surface a few times per year with something like Surface Prep or a light dilution of Strip Wash 👍

Looks great! I'm seriously considering a C8 in two years or so if I can save up some money, but I'm not sure if I could part with my SS.

Hi Kelly, Adam's Hand Polish replaced Revive Hand Polish earlier this year. You can find it at the following link: https://adamspolishes.com/products/adam-s-revive-fine-hand-car-polish Please note that it is new and improved. In addition to polishing, it now has a bit of glaze and sealant in it now too!

Sorry I missed this thread! In addition to the thread link above, here's a great video explaining our current clay options:

Yes this can be a common thing with modern GM truck/suv interior panels. They seem to have a top layer material that can wear off. Usually I will see stains from rain water streaking, sweat, grease, etc, that once you start to remove the discoloration, it will then begin to remove that top layer 'coating.' So you will then need to clean the whole panel thoroughly to make a uniform appearance. Then I will follow up with Interior Detailer, Leather Conditioner, or Leather & Interior Dressing for protection.

Let's refrain from having any further political discussion about the event in this forum. Thanks for understanding.