Dan@Adams

Yes this can be a common thing with modern GM truck/suv interior panels. They seem to have a top layer material that can wear off. Usually I will see stains from rain water streaking, sweat, grease, etc, that once you start to remove the discoloration, it will then begin to remove that top layer 'coating.' So you will then need to clean the whole panel thoroughly to make a uniform appearance. Then I will follow up with Interior Detailer, Leather Conditioner, or Leather & Interior Dressing for protection.

Yes this can be a common thing with modern GM truck/suv interior panels. They seem to have a top layer material that can wear off. Usually I will see stains from rain water streaking, sweat, grease, etc, that once you start to remove the discoloration, it will then begin to remove that top layer 'coating.' So you will then need to clean the whole panel thoroughly to make a uniform appearance. Then I will follow up with Interior Detailer, Leather Conditioner, or Leather & Interior Dressing for protection.

Yeah, it was baby powder. That was changed to Eucalyptus Mint, then the others were added with Cedarwood the latest.

Hey all,
 
The forum software was updated about a week ago to a few minor versions above what the existing theme was built around, so there will likely be some visual issues while we try to sort them out. Anything you come across, just let us know here, and we will do our best to address them. Screenshots help a ton.
 
Thanks

Adam's Graphene Ceramic Coating | Durable Long-Lasting Multi-Surface Protection
Published 7/27/2020


 
With the inclusion of Graphene, Adam’s UV Ceramic Coating has evolved! Compared to the original Ceramic Coating, the Graphene variant has improved characteristics. This is our longest lasting coating yet, lasting 7+ years in lab tested wash cycles. Graphene allows for the coating to be less prone to water spotting, in part due to a lower sliding angle for water droplets, with water evacuating at angles less than 10-15°.



It also provides a higher contact angle for water droplets, averaging 110-118° - what this means is that the greater the contact angle, the more the water will form into droplets in a tighter circle, which makes the droplets have less chance of being taken up quickly and drying onto the surface, and greater chance of them rolling off of the surface.

Adam's Graphene Ceramic Coating has a hardness greater than 9H, so this means it has a higher resistance to scratching during the wash process and also better resistance to staining from bug guts, tree sap, and bird droppings. It provides excellent depth and clarity to all surfaces - including paint, glass, headlights, chrome, plastic trim, wheels, vinyl graphics, and bed liners. Just like our previous coatings, the Graphene Ceramic Coating gives incredible depth, color, and clarity to paint, and utilized our Patent Pending, UV Tracing Technology™.
 

 
FAQ's
 
1. “Can I layer this product to make it last longer?”
 
Yes, of course, but that doesn’t mean layering this product 10 times will make it 10x longer - any application after 2 rounds will render the product redundant and still provide the same hydrophobic effects. 
 
2. “What is Ceramic Glow Technology?”

Ceramic Glow Technology™ is Adam’s Polishes Patent-Pending chemistry. It’s a crystalline form of an optical brightener that absorbs energy and emits light as it relaxes back down to a lower energy state.
 
3. “What’s the difference between fluorescence and phosphorescence?”

Length of time that the light is emitted. Said another way, the amount of time it takes for the electrons to relax and quit releasing energy in the form of photons or light.
 
4. “Does the UV Coating act as a durability indicator?”

No, it doesn’t. It’s currently offered as an application aid and utility for visualizing the coating. Lack of glow does not indicate lack of coating.
 
5. “Why does the product glow more intensely on some substrates than others?”

Differences in porosity and the ability of the coating to penetrate and bond to different surfaces will cause different levels of film thickness. The thicker the film, the more intense the glow typically.
 
6. “Will my car glow blue in the sunlight?”

No, because this coating is completely invisible and clear under standard light, the coating will only glow a bluish hue under the 395 NM UV light.

7. “Will this coating glow after being “charged” with the UV light?”

No, since this coating is fluorescent and not phosphorescent, it will excite and glow only when the light is shone. Contrarily, “glow in the dark” items have a yellow/greenish hue from phosphorescent dyes-- these slowly become excited under any light and will diminish over the course of a few minutes. 
 
8. “What can I use this on? Can I just use this on the whole car?”

Adam’s Graphene Ceramic Coating™ provides protection to an extreme range of areas on your vehicle including Painted surfaces, Trim, Bed Rail Covers, Plastic Engine Bay Components, Headlights, Bed liners, - all are safe to be protected.
 
9. “What happens if I forget a spot or end up with a high-spot?”

If you forget a spot and you catch it in time (10-20 minutes after removal) simply reapply to that area and wipe off after 1-2 minutes. Reactivating the product will allow for easier removal. If left on for longer, we recommend Brilliant Glaze and a microfiber applicator, or machine polishing with Polish to fully remove the imperfection. 
 
How To Video:
 
 
Instructions for Paint & Glass:
Prepare your painted surface or glass by using the supplied 4oz bottle of Adam’s Surface Prep and Surface Prep towel to clean and degrease the surface of any existing protection or residual films. For optimal results, users must Wash, Clay/Decontaminate, and Polish their paint prior to application. Open the coating bottle and begin by dispensing numerous drops of the liquid onto the supplied Micro Silk applicator to sufficiently wet it. Work the product into the surface, ensuring full coverage over the desired area, using cross hatching motions and overlapping your previous pass by 25-50%. During your time between passes, utilize Adam’s UV Flashlight for inspections. Take note of between the body lines, bumper areas, mirror caps, and commonly missed areas on your vehicle. To ensure a thorough application, the light should shine and reveal an even and consistent bluish hue of light. If you notice streaking in the surfaces, level out with additional product and the used Micro Silk applicator.  Once the recently applied product begins to characteristically flash and sweat into beads, begin wiping the coating off, applying minimal pressure to the towel in the process. Wipe down in a similar cross hatch pattern as applied, switching/flipping the towel periodically to use a new face to fully level the coating. Once fully leveled, allow the coating to fully cure for 24 hours, free from water, elements, or weathering.
  Instructions for Plastic Trim & Headlights:
Prepare your plastic trim or headlights by using the supplied 4oz bottle of Adam’s Surface Prep and Edgeless Utility Towel to clean and degrease the surface of any existing protection or residual films. For heavily contaminated plastic trim or headlights, we recommend a deep cleanse with Tire & Rubber Cleaner and an Edgeless Utility Towel. Open the coating bottle and begin by dispensing numerous drops of the liquid onto the supplied Micro Silk applicator to sufficiently wet it. Work the product into the surface, ensuring full coverage over the desired area, using cross hatching motions and overlapping your previous pass by 25-50%. Since the product is being applied to a porous surface, you will not see a rainbow/ flashing effect - the immediate color change of the plastic or trim will reveal where the product has been applied. However, you are also able to utilize the Adam’s UV Flashlight for inspections where desired. Once the recently applied product has penetrated, begin leveling the coating, applying minimal pressure to the towel in the process. Wipe down in a similar cross hatch pattern as applied, switching/flipping the towel periodically to use a new face to fully level the coating. Once fully leveled, allow the coating to fully cure for 24 hours, free from water, elements, or weathering.
  Instructions for Wheels:
Prepare your wheels by using the supplied 4oz bottle of Adam’s Surface Prep and Edgeless Utility Towel to clean and degrease the surface of any existing protection or residual films. For heavily contaminated wheels, we recommend a thorough cleaning with Adam’s Wheel Cleaner, or Eco Wheel Cleaner. In addition, claying with a Fine Grade Clay Bar and Detail Spray may also be necessary to initially remove stubborn contamination from the barrels and/or wheel faces. Open the coating bottle and begin by dispensing numerous drops of the liquid onto the supplied Micro Silk applicator to sufficiently wet it. Work the product into the surface, ensuring full coverage over the desired area, using cross hatching motions and overlapping your previous pass by 25-50%. During your time between passes, utilize Adam’s UV Flashlight for inspections. Take note of behind the spokes, in between the crevices of the wheel design, around the valve stem and center cap areas. To ensure a thorough application, the light should shine and reveal an even and consistent bluish hue of light. If you notice streaking in the surfaces, level out with additional product and the used Micro Silk applicator.  Once the recently applied product begins to characteristically flash and sweat into beads, begin wiping the coating off, applying minimal pressure to the towel in the process. Wipe down in a similar cross hatch pattern as applied, switching/flipping the towel periodically to use a new face to fully level the coating. Once fully leveled, allow the coating to fully cure for 24 hours, free from water, elements, or weathering.
  Common Sense Warning:
Adam’s Graphene Ceramic Coating™ is a semi-permanent ceramic coating. If installed incorrectly, polishing may be needed. Avoid contact with eyes, nose, and ingestion – always keep away from children! If contact does occur, rinse thoroughly with water and monitor for irritation. If irritation persists, contact a physician. 

Below is an excellent write-up from our chemist explaining the differences of the new Graphene Ceramic Coating compared to traditional ceramic coatings:

Yes, @Chris@Adams pushed the latest forum version update a few nights ago. A few things switched around their locations. I haven't had a chance to check it out on the mobile version (I'm usually on my laptop), so he might be able to help until I can take a look.

Let's refrain from having any further political discussion about the event in this forum. Thanks for understanding.

For most cases, yep, that's all correct! However, every vehicle can react a little differently to different compound, polish, and pad combinations, so that's why it's always important to start with a test spot first - a combo that creates slight haze or micro-scratching on one vehicle may work perfect on a different vehicle!

The white Polish and White Foam Pad can sometimes remove light swirl marks on a soft clear coat, but if it's a harder clear coat on something like a Mercedes, Audi, older Corvette, etc, you would most likely need at least Compound and a Blue Foam Pad to remove the swirl marks and then step down to the Polish and White Foam Pad.

Yep, Scratch & Swirl Remover was mainly intended to be used by hand applicator (Orange Hex Grip), and then followed up with Hand Polish with the Blue Hex Grip. It's for those hesitant to try machine polishing but are looking to improve their paint finish.

Like Ray said, it can be used with a machine, but keep in mind that it is a little gritty and can leave some haziness, especially on the piano black plastic trim (used on a lot of manufacturers door pillars now). On my car, I had to follow up with the white Polish and a White Foam Pad with the Swirl Killer Mini to get the tiny micro-scratches out of the piano black door pillars to get them back to perfect, but the Scratch & Swirl Remover definitely did remove the larger imperfections!

Also keep in mind that the updated (current) blue Hand Polish is a polish, glaze, and sealant all in one, so if you are looking to do something like a ceramic coating, I would recommend the white Polish instead, since it is strictly a finishing polish with no protection.

Correct. I spoke to our chemist about this again late last week. We had sourced bottles from two different suppliers in the past, and it looks like the plastic composition is a little weaker from one of the suppliers, so it can eventually eat through some but not all bottles. He is going to bring it up for discussion with the team. 

I found one leaking bottle of APC last week at the Import show, right on the bottom ring of the bottle like Jon experienced, which is why I mentioned it to our chemist. I will report back any updates I receive.  

Hi Jon,

I'll try to answer your questions as best as I can:

- Spray coatings like Ceramic Spray Coating and Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating still need regular maintenance just as frequently as a full coating like the UV Ceramic Paint and Wheel Coatings or Graphene Ceramic Coating. The spray coatings do feel more slick to me after application, but upkeep with things like Ceramic Boost, CS3, or Graphene Detail Spray once a month will keep it looking and feeling great, and ensure the best longevity of the coating application.

- I still use Ceramic Boost about once every two months, but I find myself grabbing CS3 more often now, especially on darker colored vehicles since it is easier to work with. I suspect that I will really enjoy Graphene Detail Spray as well...hoping to try it one night this week.

- Ceramic Spray Coating and CS3 are essentially my two favorite products now. The gloss, ease of use, and hydrophobic behavior of Ceramic Spray Coating with very little effort involved are very hard to argue. Visually, the spray coating and our full Paint Coating are equal to me (on a polished and prepped surface). The Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating will be just as easy to use with more durability, so I think you will love it. Just make sure to level and wipe it off from all surfaces, including textured plastic!

Yep, Scratch & Swirl Remover was mainly intended to be used by hand applicator (Orange Hex Grip), and then followed up with Hand Polish with the Blue Hex Grip. It's for those hesitant to try machine polishing but are looking to improve their paint finish.

Like Ray said, it can be used with a machine, but keep in mind that it is a little gritty and can leave some haziness, especially on the piano black plastic trim (used on a lot of manufacturers door pillars now). On my car, I had to follow up with the white Polish and a White Foam Pad with the Swirl Killer Mini to get the tiny micro-scratches out of the piano black door pillars to get them back to perfect, but the Scratch & Swirl Remover definitely did remove the larger imperfections!

Also keep in mind that the updated (current) blue Hand Polish is a polish, glaze, and sealant all in one, so if you are looking to do something like a ceramic coating, I would recommend the white Polish instead, since it is strictly a finishing polish with no protection.

Agree with Chris, but I would also consider doing at least a light polish with One Step Polish or our White Polish in between claying and Surface Prep to get the paint looking as good as possible before applying the Graphene Ceramic Coating 👍

Correct. I spoke to our chemist about this again late last week. We had sourced bottles from two different suppliers in the past, and it looks like the plastic composition is a little weaker from one of the suppliers, so it can eventually eat through some but not all bottles. He is going to bring it up for discussion with the team. 

I found one leaking bottle of APC last week at the Import show, right on the bottom ring of the bottle like Jon experienced, which is why I mentioned it to our chemist. I will report back any updates I receive.  

Some random questions here...drinking a few beers and the mind is wandering, LOL...
 
So, I think maybe I've noticed that I'm not the only one that's had better luck with spray coating than regular coating.  Every time I use spray coating, the results are amazing.  It just "pops" sooo much better and different from regular coating.  Hard to quantify. Thinking about ditching any regular coating and just sticking with that.  Which brings up a couple questions...
 
- I couldn't find anything, but seems I recall reading that spray coatings are less "in need" of Boost as say the regular coating is?
 
-After my last results with Boost, I'm ready to ditch it from my arsenal
 
-In need of a refill, and anxious to try it anyways...so I'm thinking about going with spray graphene.  Any thoughts or opinions about not using ceramic Boost over graphene spray, and just going with graphene DS as a maintenance product (or CS3 as needed for cleaning)?
 
-I've had amazing luck with ceramic spray coating.  The results are spectacular and extremely different from the regular coating.  Anyone else had this same result when comparing the two?  Do you think the graphene spray will offer the same results?

Correct. I spoke to our chemist about this again late last week. We had sourced bottles from two different suppliers in the past, and it looks like the plastic composition is a little weaker from one of the suppliers, so it can eventually eat through some but not all bottles. He is going to bring it up for discussion with the team. 

I found one leaking bottle of APC last week at the Import show, right on the bottom ring of the bottle like Jon experienced, which is why I mentioned it to our chemist. I will report back any updates I receive.  

Hi Jon,

I'll try to answer your questions as best as I can:

- Spray coatings like Ceramic Spray Coating and Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating still need regular maintenance just as frequently as a full coating like the UV Ceramic Paint and Wheel Coatings or Graphene Ceramic Coating. The spray coatings do feel more slick to me after application, but upkeep with things like Ceramic Boost, CS3, or Graphene Detail Spray once a month will keep it looking and feeling great, and ensure the best longevity of the coating application.

- I still use Ceramic Boost about once every two months, but I find myself grabbing CS3 more often now, especially on darker colored vehicles since it is easier to work with. I suspect that I will really enjoy Graphene Detail Spray as well...hoping to try it one night this week.

- Ceramic Spray Coating and CS3 are essentially my two favorite products now. The gloss, ease of use, and hydrophobic behavior of Ceramic Spray Coating with very little effort involved are very hard to argue. Visually, the spray coating and our full Paint Coating are equal to me (on a polished and prepped surface). The Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating will be just as easy to use with more durability, so I think you will love it. Just make sure to level and wipe it off from all surfaces, including textured plastic!

Yep, Scratch & Swirl Remover was mainly intended to be used by hand applicator (Orange Hex Grip), and then followed up with Hand Polish with the Blue Hex Grip. It's for those hesitant to try machine polishing but are looking to improve their paint finish.

Like Ray said, it can be used with a machine, but keep in mind that it is a little gritty and can leave some haziness, especially on the piano black plastic trim (used on a lot of manufacturers door pillars now). On my car, I had to follow up with the white Polish and a White Foam Pad with the Swirl Killer Mini to get the tiny micro-scratches out of the piano black door pillars to get them back to perfect, but the Scratch & Swirl Remover definitely did remove the larger imperfections!

Also keep in mind that the updated (current) blue Hand Polish is a polish, glaze, and sealant all in one, so if you are looking to do something like a ceramic coating, I would recommend the white Polish instead, since it is strictly a finishing polish with no protection.

Yep, Scratch & Swirl Remover was mainly intended to be used by hand applicator (Orange Hex Grip), and then followed up with Hand Polish with the Blue Hex Grip. It's for those hesitant to try machine polishing but are looking to improve their paint finish.

Like Ray said, it can be used with a machine, but keep in mind that it is a little gritty and can leave some haziness, especially on the piano black plastic trim (used on a lot of manufacturers door pillars now). On my car, I had to follow up with the white Polish and a White Foam Pad with the Swirl Killer Mini to get the tiny micro-scratches out of the piano black door pillars to get them back to perfect, but the Scratch & Swirl Remover definitely did remove the larger imperfections!

Also keep in mind that the updated (current) blue Hand Polish is a polish, glaze, and sealant all in one, so if you are looking to do something like a ceramic coating, I would recommend the white Polish instead, since it is strictly a finishing polish with no protection.

oops. i just realized you did it. hahaha. wow!!! no wonder it looks so great. but still, ... take my advice if you ever get in a jam. its amazing. 

Gorgeous truck. Honestly, since Ive had my 19 Scat Pack... ive babied it with nearly ALL of Adam's ceramic INFUSED products... 
and even a good pal at a GREAT BODYSHOP said to me... "you dont even need to coat it." 
I am in the same boat... I dont really have the place to do  the full coating / cure times / etc. 
My paint is till ALMOST  90% swirl free and water FLIES off it. Everywhere I go (nearly) I get comments on the Charger and the paint. 
I love the ceramic wash, the liquid wax, the CS3,  etc. etc.  .... This method and choice of products has been BEYOND good to me. 
Good luck and congrats on the ride!

Easy to apply and remove. I used a little less than half a bottle for my full size truck. Did the glass sun roof and all windows too. Paint has a bit of extra pop now. I'll use Boost every few washes or so. Easier than most liquid type sealers. Let's see how long it lasts! 😃

Thanks Chris....I found a temporary shelter for 1/2 a day, so I ordered the spray version of the graphene (kit). It says 4 hours to cure before exposure, so I think that will work. I'll reply back when it's all said and done!
 
Thanks again 

Guy on one of the forums said there will be general parking on the hill on the fairgrounds where the general Corvette parking is/was.  So if you don't have a Vette and just want to go for the day to look around in your Dodge,  a one day pass for 2 people with the general parking inside the fairgrounds is only $30.  It's on top of the hill, and quite a walk, but better than hunting for parking outside. 

I will be there!