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egott_91

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Everything posted by egott_91

  1. I'm afraid of the costs that could be associated with Audi's also and I don't know if I want to take that risk as a college student. I do really like G8 GT's and SRT8 Jeeps. I haven't driven either though. I'm not really a big truck guy, plus the ones I like are a little out of my price range. Lol. You're a little far away. Ha. And you're only getting 12.5 MPG highway? Sounds like my old Durango RT, which I liked, minus the mileage.
  2. Well, I'm getting bored with the Coly and I'm looking for something to replace it. I'm looking at an array of vehicles and can't really decide what I want. I really like SRT8 jeeps, around 2006, 205ish S4 Audi's, G8 GT's. Wondering if you guys had any suggestions with the list of criteria below: Around $20k Under 75k miles, preferably under 60k Quick/power (V8 or s/c or t/c) MPG at least 20 highway Comfortable 2003 or newer Sporty looking Decent in the winter (willing to put snow tires on of RWD) Open to coupes, SUVS, and sedans, trucks. Let's here the suggestions from the AF crew!
  3. I want that C4 ZR1...NOW! Lol. Maybe he has a daughter around my age..........
  4. Beautiful car. Did you take the picture of the Chevelle emblem before or after the correction? Looks like there's still a little swirling where the sun is hitting the paint. Also, is it just me, or do the side emblems seem high? Nevermind, googled it and it looks like that's where they're supposed to be on a '69. I was thinking of the '70 emblem placement.
  5. Time to do the rest of that "copper" kick panel.
  6. I got some tarminator and wd40 and that was able to thin it out enough for me to take a scrubber and all purpose cleaner to remove most of the remaining tar. Fender wells are horrible still as is the underside that I'll take care of tomorrow. I didn't even care about scratches and swirls, I just wanted the tar off of the sides! Like I said, trucks paint is swirl city anyways so it's all good. Tomorrow is removing the rest of the tar in the fender wells and underside, clay, re-seal, re-wax. On a positive note, quick sealant topped with Americana kept the tar from sticking too bad so I didn't have to scrub till my arms fell off. Lol.
  7. I always forget about WD40. I know clay is going to have to be part of the process...guess this is my chance to use up all of the meguiars clay bar I have from before I was an Adam's customer.
  8. You're telling me! Good thing I haven't corrected the paint yet, because I'm sure there's going to be lots of scrubbing and some non-adams mitts/sponges being used because I don't feel like ruining all of my mitts... Anyone use Stoner Tarminator, and how does it compare to APC? I figure I'm going to have to rewax anyways, so no big deal.
  9. Got to take the truck through a nice fresh patch of tar this morning... This is the worse of the 2 sides...Looks like I get to have some fun...
  10. I would say walk the magnificent mile
  11. Glad everyone's safe. On a side note, I don't think there's any Adams product that can remove that.
  12. Yes, it'll go sealant, glaze (optional, adds no protection but improves shine), then buttery or Americana. The machine sealant will offer the best protection, followed by quick sealant, followed by Americana, and buttery the least as far as protection.
  13. If your tires aren't extremely dirty, there's no need to really use full strength all purpose cleaner on them. Just go ahead and use the shampoo with the tire and fender brush. On a side note, I have used all purpose cleaner and it has dripped onto my sealed wheels a few times, but the wheels still bead up really well when I do my wash and I have a 35 series tire. With as little that actually drips on the face of the wheel you should be fine.
  14. Also, if you plan on using both, sealant before wax. Nice truck, and welcome to the boards!
  15. When you're washing the car and you notice the beading starting to fade, apply another coat of wax. You won't have to machine polish unless you cause scratches some how and if they are from washing or drying you'd probably be safe with just Fine Machine Polish to get the scratches out. Remember you will need to strip everything (protection wise) off before polishing. But, as far as keeping it looking good, just keep up the weekly washes, apply SVRT to tires, and apply wax when the beading is starting to fade. After about 6 months (possibly sooner depending on the conditions of your commute and surroundings) you will probably want to do a strip wash and apply sealant again. Also, if you want a quick and easy shine enhancement, say you're going to a cruise in or show and don't have time to fully detail it, Brilliant Glaze will be a friend of yours. Hope that helps.
  16. Very nice! How much?! Lol
  17. Charger looks mean from the front! Verrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr nice!
  18. That paint is too new to be putting anything on. The glaze offers very little protection, but it does have carnuba in it, which is in a lot of waxes. Like Mook said. I would stick to just washing and a detail spray wipedown until the paint is cured.
  19. I use single softs for removing polishes, sealants, glazes, and waxes. I find that when used with detail spray, on dark colors, it leaves a smear. I prefer waterless wash towels for removing anything liquid off the paint.
  20. SVRT. Favorite product probably. No problem.
  21. Protection wise, Machine super sealant will give you the best protection, then quick sealant, then americana, then buttery. If you dont have a machine, your best bet is quick sealant followed by a wax. Here's the shine of quick sealant followed by americana.
  22. Here's Bentley! Not your typical lazy bulldog...lol (can't tell from the pictures though)
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