Beemer

It's recommended you use the Trim Coating for trim.

Looks to me like the roof was repainted with single-stage paint. Is the pad the same color as the paint?

Oh, no! Did she kill the flying squirrel too?

I have had wax haze up again sometimes days after removal. Just use a little detail spray and wipe it off.

Drive real fast. Maybe it will blow off onto the car behind you.

You might be asking a bit too much from the Trim Coating. It looks like that fender is oxydized and faded to an extreme degree. I believe Trim Coating was designed to keep trim that is in good shape in good shape for a long time.

Seriously? 70 - 80? No. They'll be fine. Where do you live that that's hot? Alaska?

Works great as a water spray nozzle. It's the only one I use.

​Rollers are the best. ​

Not sure how you can solve your problem without a garage. I have a metal garage that is gounded. I clamp an old jumper cable to the car frame and to the metal building. It seems to help a lot with the static and dust. Not much help if you're outside, however.

Yes. 50/50 IPA will strip your wax and sealant. Your "one panel per day" plan will work fine.

I believe the hardness rating is different for the three different coatings. I believe it goes trim, paint and wheel with each getting harder. You can probably use paint coating on all three but I bet Adam's would recommend using each for it's intended purpose. Trim Coating is a little softer because some trim is flexible. Wheel coating is harder because of the abuse wheels take...

Keep working at it. You'll get there. At least - that's what they keep telling me....

I used it all over the trim on my F150. Love it!

No VRT necessary. The coated plastic washes off very easily and still looks fantastic after several months.

I used Trim Coating on mine. Looks fantastic and seems to be holding up real well.

I had a bad experience with Ceramic Boost on my matte black vinyl. Matte Detailer looks FANTASTIC on them.

I also have very bad water. Best thing I've found is to start washing before sunrise and finish before the sun is high enough to hit the car direct. Anything else and I get spots. You HAVE to get ALL the water off the paint before it is hit by direct sunlight.

I don't think it would be a good idea. G&G is water activated. There is water in your diluted rinsless. It would activate the G&G when you put it in the rinseless. Would make it not work when you sprayed it on the car.

I believe these instructions are for preparing to apply the coating - not cleaning and maintenance afterwards.

This is a great example of the MEMBER RUN "themed" contests we used to run. It was a lot of fun. The only prize was that the winner got to pick the theme for the next contest..... Go ahead and start one. Couldn't hurt.

No - it would NOT be silly to use H2O as a base layer and then put Americana on top of it. It probably won't last as long as Paint Sealant but there are so many variables that effect longevity it's hard to give an estimate. I would NOT top Americana with Buttery. Americana is a very high quality wax that will give you an incredible shine. Buttery will not improve it. If you want to put Buttery down after a month or two it would be fine but if you have Americana - use Americana. Detail Spray is perfect for wipe downs and will only boost the wax.

There used to be photo contests here a LONG time ago. Things tended to get ugly.... At that time the management didn't think it was worth the drama so nixed them. However - we also had "themed" photo contests among the members. No prizes - just bragging rights and the duty to officiate the next contest. I really enjoyed those....

I use a very soft toothbrush.

You want Rinseless Wash if you're going to dilute your own. Waterless Wash is "ready to use". It's confusing at first but once you've used both you'll understand.