McMo

All Spoken for. Thanks for the interest.
 
Doing some spring cleaning and would be happy to have someone make good use out of this assortment of stuff. The PC 7424 (not XP version) was purchased many years ago when I thought I should get into detailing my own cars. It never happened. Then I discovered Adams and purchased the backing plate and 7" pads. Then it only happened a couple of times. I have since purchased a Cyclo and Swirl Killer mini and am very happy with this combination. It is now happening on a regular basis.
So, needless to say, this other stuff will never get used. I also have a few other items that are collecting dust, all in excellent, slightly used condition.
 
Free to a good home, just pay the shipping costs. I am in Canada, just east of Toronto, so it will likely be limited to those of us who are north of the border.
 
1 - slightly used PC 7424 (not XP version)
1 - Adam's Premium 6" Machine Polisher Backing Plate-For Porter Cable
2 - Adam's 7" grey foam pads. 1 brand new, 1 slightly used
2 - Adam's 7" orange foam pads. 1 brand new, 1 slightly used
2 - Adam's 7 " white foam pads. 1 brand new, 1 slightly used
1 - Adam's 7" orange microfiber pad
1 - Adam's 7" white microfiber pad
1/2 bottle Adam's paint correcting polish
1/2 bottle Adam's paint finishing polish
1 - Adams Ultimate Merino Wool Car Wash Mitt
1 - Adam's car wash wedge
   

Spicy Italian sausage deep dish pizza.
Ready to go on the grill

On the grill

21 min later, done

Here's my Winter wash alternate.........Climate control garage.????

Man, that rub almost makes me want to wish for a cloud burst to open up. Lol. As they say, If you don't like the weather in Florida, Wait a minute it'll change.

Drive to Florida????

Drive to Florida????

Drive to Florida????

Drive to Florida????

Drive to Florida????

I would like a video showing some alternate uses for towels or products, applicators, etc maybe some "shop tips" with some things you guys do to cars in the shop to do a bit of extra "oomph" on your details!

Paint Sealant
 
Once the paint correction was done I was ready to apply the Liquid Paint Sealant (LPS). I continued using the cyclo, but switched to the grey sealant pads. I made an “X” on the pad with LPS and turned the machine speed to 3. I placed to machine on the paint and turned it on. When applying LPS all you want to do is apply it and get even coverage there is no need for multiple passes. So after I applying it to all panels I went back and wiped it all off. If there is still residue on the paint you can use a shot of detail spray to help remove it.
 
Tire and Fender Dressing
 
When I use Adam’s Tire Shine I like lots of gloss, so here is my method of applying. I spray the tire liberally and let it soak while spraying down the other tires. Then I come back and using a Hex Grip Tire Applicator I spread the Tire Shine to a nice even Gloss. After spreading the Tire Shine, I use Detail Spray to wipe down the wheels to remove and overspray from the tire shine.  If you don’t like to much gloss, you can spray Tire Shine directly on the applicator and then spread it. As for the fenders I always use Adam’s Invisible Undercarriage Spray (IUS). Whether they are cloth or plastic IUS makes the fender nice and black. All you have to do is spray liberally for a nice even matte finish. Here are the before and after photos.




 
 
Trim and Rubber Dressing
 
The two products I use to make trim a nice rich black is, Adam’s Vinyl, Rubber and Tire Dressing (VRT) as well as In and Out spray. These two products are easy to use and don't leave a greasy residue. I use In and Out spray for the trim around the windows, and the trim below the windshield. I spray it evenly across the trim and use a microfiber to remove any residue and blend the dressing. As for the VRT, I used a foam block and applied it to the step up bars. Apply VRT directly to the block and fold the block together to evenly distribute the dressing. Then I simply the spread the VRT on to the piece of trim I was working with. Work it in until it is an even finish. Make sure you apply these products before doing the windows. Here is the finished product.
 
 


 
Applying Glass Sealant and Cleaning Glass
 

 
Adam’s Glass Sealant is a must have for any vehicle and can be applied to all windows. When applying Glass Sealant you should clay the glass first making sure there are no contaminates on the glass. Using a Microfiber Applicator put about 10 drops of the sealant onto the applicator. It doesn't take much. Apply the sealant evenly using cross hatching technique. Allow the sealant to haze up.
 

 
 
Buff off the residue using Adam's Glass Cleaner and a Blue Glass Towel. When properly applied water should bead off in a ridiculous fashion and wipers become almost useless in the rain.
 
In my opinion this is the best way to clean glass without any streaks. Fold the towel into Quarters. Spray the window with Glass Cleaner. Wipe evenly in straight lines. then flip the towel to the dry side and buff any remaining residue in the same straight lines.
 
Final Results
 
This GMC Denali came out great even though it only had 700 miles on it, it still needed some love. Now it is prepped for winter and in showroom condition. Please feel free to ask any and all questions you may have. I am here to answer them. Thanks for looking.
 








 
 
 

Adam's should make a modified wash wedge with a place to mount a long pole for using on trucks/suv roofs and RVs. It would also give a different option for washing in the cold. No more cold, wet hands!
 
What do y'all think?
 
"Adam's Pole Wedge"
 

About a week ago I did a paint correction and applied liquid paint sealant to my 2014 Ford Fusion. I was very pleased with the results. After doing a 2 bucket wash today, and drying quickly with detail spray because of the sun, I thought lets try the H2O Guard and Gloss. I couldn't wait any longer to give this stuff a try, so I applied it using the dry application. I couldn't believe the difference. This stuff is amazing; it kicked it up another level. Unfortunately, I don't have a before shot for comparison. 
 
A few comments on the process: While doing the dry application, it was very sunny and the temp. was about 70 degrees. I was using 2 double soft microfiber towels. Even though the one towel was quite wet, it too seemed to be drying out quickly in the sun. At times it seemed as though the towel wasn't wet enough and I was racing to apply the product and remove it before it dried out completely. I tried compensating for this by refolding the towel to use a different area. This seemed to help and I was able to complete the application. 
 
I thought about re-soaking my towel during the process but it seemed to me that I could be wasting a lot of product that was building up in the towel, so I didn't do this. After I was done, I thought that maybe I could have spritzed the towel with a couple of shots of water from a spray bottle. 
 
Perhaps it was just too sunny for a smooth application but next time I'm going to give the spray bottle a shot.

Eley hoses, reels, nozzles and accessories are all excellent products. U.S company with excellent customer service.
 
http://www.eleyhosereels.com/

Hey guys,
  
     I was just wondering if anyone had any thoughts on how to make an attachment to the wash wedge to add a handle.  It is really hard for me to reach certain spots on the roof of my truck and it would be nice to have a little extension or something. 
 
 Anyway its just a thought.
 
Kevin

Yeah... You 'WEIRDO'..!!!! ; )
(Inside joke)
 
I would agree with the other sentiments. Your process, methods, ingenuity, obsession!, time you take, photographing and writing all this up... It's invaluable to MANY on this forum.
 
Kudos to you sir.
 
And thank you.

Glad to hear you are going to give it a try. 

I think you have just sold me on this, Dan. I have always just used the Total Interior Detailer on mine, which is a great easy on/easy off product, but this looks amazing.
 
You getting a commission?

Crazy.. I was going to send an email to tech to see if this is still in the works. Now an old thread pops up.
 
I like polishing more than I like washing my truck by hand. So I don't mind the tradeoff of causing light swirls if a good brush was afford. 

I can't wait for this as well.  Doing the roof and hood of the truck is an ordeal.  For the hood I stand on each tire and can get each side of it from there.  That means grabbing the base of the wiper and pulling myself up there.
 
For the roof I can stand in my bed and get the back half but then I have to get down and open the driver/passenger door and stand on the floor of the truck with the door open to get the front quarters of it.
 
Big Trucks want the Adam's truck washer!!!
 

I agree Dan I hope it passes the test too.....I think about it every time I wash my truck.

It would be great if weekend warriors could read the posts - not have the ability to input, just review.
 
I would hate to miss out on all this great information. I also fear the pros may just migrate to this section and weekend warriors would miss their valuable input on the rest of the site.

It would be great if weekend warriors could read the posts - not have the ability to input, just review.
 
I would hate to miss out on all this great information. I also fear the pros may just migrate to this section and weekend warriors would miss their valuable input on the rest of the site.

So you want to start mixing and diluting products for various uses, but you're not sure how to decode the ratios? Not to worry - the Shine Doc has got you covered! Dilution and mixing can be a very important part of a good detailing regimen, whether its to reduce the strength of a cleaner for more delicate needs or reduce the shine of a dressing, its key to know how to properly read dilution recommendations.
 
WHAT PRODUCTS CAN BE DILUTED?
Virtually any chemical can be diluted in one way or another, but things like wax for example won't be diluted often. Other products like Super VRT, Leather & Interior Cleaner, or Rinseless Wash will be things you dilute all the time.
 
CAN I USE TAP WATER TO DILUTE THINGS?
Yes and no, it really depends on the product you're mixing and what its purpose will be. Typically any product that has an 'optical implication' should only be mixed with distilled water. By optical implication we're talking about products with a visual impact on reflection, clarity, etc. So for example Super VRT can be mixed with regular tap water as the clarity of your tires or trim isn't an issue. On the other hand Rinseless should (ideally) be diluted with distilled water to reduce the chance for streaking when its used as a waterless spray.
 
DEFINING 'PARTS' IN A DILUTION
The term 'parts' are used in simplified dilution ratios that allow the user to calculate a dilution ratio regardless of the size of the bottle or batch you are mixing. Simply put 'parts' are a basic way to break down a mix and scale it to whatever amount you need or want.
 
In a dilution ratio your first number is always the water and the second number is your chemical, so for example:
 
If you were trying to create a dilution of Car Wash at 4:1 it would read 4 PARTS water and 1 PART car wash. Because the ratio is a simplified dilution you can apply it to something as small as a 16oz bottle or as large as a 5 gallon bucket. As long as you know the parts you can create any batch you need at the identical dilution ratio.
 
HOW PARTS MAKE UP A TOTAL YIELD
With the parts understood we can discuss how those parts add up to create your total yield. The total yield is the amount of the finished mixture you will create with your dilution. Simply put, the sum of the parts equals the yield. Sticking with our 4:1 mixture for Car Wash from earlier -
 
4 parts water and 1 part car wash equals a total yield of 5 (the sum of the parts)
 
If you were using a dilution of 20:1 your total yield would be 21. If working with a dilution of 10:1 your total yield is 11, etc, etc.
 
DETERMINING YOUR BATCH SIZE
Your batch will be dictated mostly by the container you intend to mix in. Keep in mind that most bottles are not defined by 'full to the top' as almost every bottle manufacture leaves an air gap at the top to reduce spillage. If your bottle doesn't have markers or a gauge to indicate sizes use a measuring cup to determine where the fill lines should be and mark them with a sharpie.
 
CONVERTING YOUR RATIO TO OUNCES
So now we know what parts are and how they add up to the total yield. You also know that your batch size will be dictated by your container, but how do we break the formula down into ounces and start mixing? We need to convert our parts to ounces. Lets say we're going to mix 32oz of our Car Wash solution at 4:1 to clean a set of delicate aluminum wheels:
 
 
BATCH / YIELD = OUNCES PER PART
 

Remember BATCH is the size of your container, or the amount you wish to make in ounces and YIELD is the total number of parts in your dilution ratio so in our example:
 
32oz  /  5  =  6.4 ounces per part
 
Now that we've determined our ounces per part we can plug that number back into the original ratio and determine exactly what we need to create our mixture in the correct batch size
 
4 PARTS WATER       x     6.4oz   =     25.6oz
1 PART CAR WASH   x     6.4oz   =     6.4oz
 
Double checking our math by adding it together you can see we have a total of 32oz of mixture being created at our desired dilution.
 
TIP: PRE-MIX LARGER BATCHES
Armed with all this new found knowledge of dilution how can you make it even more effective? Try pre-mixing larger quantities of your most commonly used ratios for refill purposes. Diluting directly into the bottle, while convenient and easy does present a challenge - if you are almost done with your mixture and need to refill it how can you accurately measure when there is already liquid in the bottle to contend with? By mixing gallon or larger batches to then refill your spray bottles you can eliminate the guess work and the need to mix for 128oz of use.

So the next time you exhaust a gallon container don't toss it out! Mix up a batch of your most commonly used dilution and have it ready to go whenever you need it!

 
COMMON DILUTIONS
Below you'll find just a few suggestions on various dilutions to use your Adam's products at. If you have a dilution ratio you like for a product reply here and we'll add it to the list. The beauty of diluting products is you can find a variety of needs and new solutions for products you may not have thought of before.
 
All Purpose Cleaner 8:1 - Delicate aluminum wheels or trim 4:1 - Bug or tar pre-treater, door sills, kick panels 1:1 - Ceramic coated wheels, gloss or matte black painted wheels, delicate engine bay Car Shampoo 128:1 - Soap Bucket 8:1 - Foam Cannon or Foam Gun Leather & Interior Cleaner 8:1 - Delicate surface interior cleaning 3:1 - Moderate soiling 1:1 - General coated leather cleaning (when no stains are present) Mega Foam 256:1 - Soap Bucket 16:1 - Foam Cannon or Foam Gun Rinseless Wash 16:1 - Waterless washing spray 64:1 - Clay lubricant 6:1 - Pre-Wash/Pre-Soak solution Strip Wash 128:1 - Soap Bucket 8:1 - Foam Cannon or Foam Gun Tire & Rubber Cleaner 1:1 - Maintenance cleaning of lightly dirty tires, delicate engine bay Ultra Foam Shampoo 128:1 - Soap Bucket 10:1 - Foam Cannon or Foam Gun VRT Tire & Trim Dressing 1:1 - Spray on low gloss tire dressing 2:1 - Spray on detailer for vinyl soft tops/tonneau covers and engine bay plastics/hoses (sometimes referred to as "VRT Milk") 3:1 - Quick detail spray dressing for matte vinyl wraps Wash & Wax 128:1 - Soap Bucket 10:1 - Foam Cannon or Foam Gun Wheel Cleaner 1:1 - Paint decontamination/removal of ferrous metal (Iron Remover is preferred and more effective for full body panels) Wheel & Tire Cleaner 2:1 - Fender wells and engine bay 1:1 - Maintenance cleaning of lightly dirty wheels and tires 

Thanks to everyone for taking the time to respond.
I used a 4" pad to apply the sealant to my truck. This made a huge difference. Using the 4" also allowed me to get into tighter areas, and very little needed to be applied by hand.
Perhaps the 7" was bogging down more on the fiberglass - I didn't try it on the truck.
Love the new Liquid Paint Sealant.