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Did "the works" Not happy with results


jeffs42885

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So, heres what I did.

 

Like I said in my intro post, I've tried every product on the market. I really am impressed with adams, and I've seen it do MAGIC..But just not on my paint..

 

I think that, due to all my improper care to the paint, It might be that there is just ALOT of wax /sealant/polish on the car, making this impossible. Here is what I did

 

2 bucket technique - adams mit, wash, ag.net foam gun

dry with adams drying towel, + spray detailer

Clay where needed

green + severe haze/swirl

orange + haze/swirl

white + fmp

at the time, I didnt have buttery- Meguiars NXT on a black pad

 

The paint looks terrible at night, and at night time. I want to know, should I perhaps start off with a step that will get layers upon layers of this old wax off..It seems like the finish smudges very easily too, and just doesnt look good

:help::help::help::help::help::help::help::help:

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Well extra stuff on the paint may clog the pad, and then the polish wouldn't work as well. Also, I would assume that little pieces of "stuff" stuck on the paint from not claying the whole car would get stuck in the pads and possibly do further damage to the paint.

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My two cents - #2 photo shows swirls, and those should come out with the SHR/Orange pad, and then always followed by the white pad/fmp to clean up with the SHR does to the finish. The less than sharp reflections of the sun/light make me think you might have hurried things and or used too much polish. (sounds funny, but...)

 

You have to go very slowly across the finish with the PC, with a small amount of polish and proper pressure (slow pad rotations) with overlapping passes, and work the polish until it looks like a thin film of vaseline. If the polish still looks faintly milky when you stop, you are not working the polish enough. If the pad was clogged up with SHR (orange dusting or little chunks of polish tossed onto the car) then that will also slow down the rate of correction - sounds weird, but the pad does some of the work, not just the polish.

 

I also agree with taping off a 'test' area, and working it until you get it the way you want, then repeat that technique(speeds, passes, area) on all the other areas on the car. It also may take several passes of SHR per area to get you the results you want. And don't skip the FMP/white pad step, as that cleans up any marring that the SHR may leave behind. If you get carried away and do too large an area (larger than your test area) you will be doing less work on that area with the same number of passes, so the results may not be as good. (also my mistake). We have all been there, no worries. You will get this. It is part science and part art.

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:iagree: I had recently done my truck and was not pleased 100%. I know it was operator error and I didn't take my time and tried to rush it. Looked good in the garage but out in the sun its not perfect. I will be doing a long correction when I'm back from overseas to get it right. Plus GM clear being so **** hard doesn't make it any easier.
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Another suggestion - pick one area (18" x 18") that is really bad and tape it off. Work that area completely until it looks the way you want it to look, then you will know what the rest of the car should need. You may have to make multiple passes over that area with each product and pad to get it where you want it. Sometimes people take several days to perfect that one spot, but in the long run it pays off.

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It is always a good idea to watch the videos. All of them, as each and every step is outlined with the "how" and "why". The statement "clayed where necessary" has given everyone the impression that you do not understand the claying process. So, before you start again, do some research (junkman videos, and adams videos) and don't start until you understand what your doing and why. If you take this advice to heart, you will save yourself a lot of work and get stellar results!

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that would be cool. I work M-F 9-5 so it might be hard, carlisle is coming up too, which is why im so dead bent on getting this right..this week, after work..lol

 

I am free every week end too, so if you have any time just let me know... if you want to check out my shop and see where I am located just go to my website... www.swancreekautocare.com

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Jeff,

The swirls in the second picture looks they should come out with SHR and the orange pad. You may need to work the polish longer, move the PC slower, and/or add more pressure. Some spots take more than 1 'pass' (working polish until is is hazy) to correct.

The scratch in third picture looks like it may be too deep to correct with a polisher. You may be able to minimize it with repeated passes.

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Hey Jeff, I live 2.5 hours from you in NJ... I own a detail shop and use all adams, if you would like, you could send me a pm and set up a day/time to come down. I could train you one on one the proper techniques in getting the ultimate shine with adams.

 

that would be cool. I work M-F 9-5 so it might be hard, carlisle is coming up too, which is why im so dead bent on getting this right..this week, after work..lol

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Hey Jeff, I live 2.5 hours from you in NJ... I own a detail shop and use all adams, if you would like, you could send me a pm and set up a day/time to come down. I could train you one on one the proper techniques in getting the ultimate shine with adams.

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Serious IPA wipedown and a degreasing would help you out to strip the car back down to just clear coat...Definitely have to clay the ENTIRE car, not just parts. Once the Paint is back to just clear with no protectants on it, start compounding/polishing again. Before you wax the car, do i final IPA wipe down to ensure there is no polish residue that would impede a perfect finish once your wax is applied. After the IPA wipe, apply your wax. I prefer a good paste wax, but whatever you are used to is fine.

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The severe swirl remover would have removed anything on the paint.

 

You followed standard polishing regimen but you need to be sure each step of the polishing process is doing what it is supposed to do. You need to stop and look at the paint to see step is getting the correct result. It is not do all the steps then decide it did not work. You need to do a test spot and get that right before doing the entire car.

 

In the end before putting on the sealant or wax it should look great by itself. If it does not, you will not get the magic you seek.

 

I would strip off the NXT and evaluate the paint. You could have residual marring due to improper polish technique.

 

Do you have pics of the car?

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Even if he had build up of other products before using the Adams,would not the Adams SevereSwirlRemover,SwirlHazeRemover,FineMachinePolish abraid off what was there in the first place?

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You should have used dawn or that alcohol solution to strip the old wax off.

 

You should have clayed the entire car and checked every inch with the plastic baggie test

 

We really need pics to see what is going on. Also, a video of your technique could help.

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1 You should have done a dawn wash to remove all previous wax.

2claying should have done to the whole car.

3MSW on the black pad would have been ideal

4 what year/make is your car

5 It was most likely your technique. Also did you use the flex or PC?

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can you take some pics Jeff?

 

maybe you didnt strip off the existing waxes, especially since it sounds like you only clayed in certain areas.. try washing with dawn, or even doing an IPA wipe down, claying the whole thing again, and re-polishing.. might be like you said, too much crap on the car remaining when you started your polish..

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