Drying

[blacked_out]

So.  New to Adam's products.  About 3 washes in, no intense details YET.  I have a Shadow Black F150 and am trying to do things right from the start with this.

 

I am using a canon, not Adam's, YET.... and a 2 bucket wash.  Bugs are a bit of a challenge, but everyone has said to get some rinseless (next order).

 

My question is this.  My first 2 times washing, I used H2O G&G to dry (wet method).  Work fantastic!  Tonight I tried to use detail spray and a great white drying towel.  No such luck!  The spray made the water start to run, but the towels got too wet to where they weren't drying anymore.  I switched to the G&G towels, and it seemed to work, but got dark as I was finishing...we will see how it looks tomorrow morning!

 

Just wondering if I am missing what everyone loves about the drying towels?

-Brad

[Junior]

A few tips:

 

1) When I dry my car it s typically in the shade cooler temps 65-80 degrees F is ideal. Humidity and heat can impact that process a lot. When it's cool and in the shade you can take your time and allow evaporation and gravity to assist you to some small extent because the sun is not baking water spots onto the finish.

2) If you can pool rinse that helps. You can do that by running the water as smoothly as possible across the panels. It should lesson the amount of water you have to dry

3) On bigger vehicles, two towels may be needed. Face it you have a lot more places to collect water. I typically use two on just about every car I detail/wash. I like being able to flip to dry sides of the waffle weave after each panel. OH AND USE VERY LIGHT PRESSURE! Let the towel do,the work but putting any real pressure should not be necessary.

4) I detail spray and dry one section at a time and I typically do the Windows last with a separate towel. I start with the hood, roof, trunk, then sides, last Windows. Just my personal preference.

5) Afterward, a wipe down using a nice soft mf towel (or two) and detail spray to make sure everything is buttoned up is a good practice.

If all else fails, get a Master Blaster or side kick to aid you. The less you are contacting black paint, the better!

Edited July 13, 2016 by Junior

[blacked_out]

It was in the shade last night, actually in the evening to the point when I ran out of light.  I think I actually could have benefited from more light/heat.

 

I probably should have done a better job at pool rinsing, will try again next time (which may be sooner than I thought as this morning it was apparent that all of the bugs are actually not gone yet! Agh!!!

 

I used towels and both were soaked to the point of not drying...I had to use my H2O G&G towels (clean with detail spray) to clean it up as the white dowels weren't cutting it.

 

I was looking into the master blaster and sidekick....but wow!  Not sure I can talk the Mrs into that much $$$$ after just making my first and about to make my second orders...

[chops1sc]

You should only need to use H20 G&G about every 2 months or so. Don't think of it as a detail spray or even a drying aid. And you definitely need more than one drying towel. My Silverado uses 2 and sometimes I need a third to get any stubborn areas. Keep in mind you can wring the towel out and get more but I dont like to do that (hence the extra towels). Extra heat will only help give you spots IMO. After the pooling rinse I spray the entire truck with detail spray so it can help reduce spotting. I dont "soak" it down, just enough to get a fine mist on every panel.

 

Good luck and don't get discouraged! I was in the same boat when I first started washing "the right way", lol!

[Thorsager]

The towels are doing their job which is to pull and trap the water off the surface of the vehicle. Once saturated you will need to use another towel. I use the Master Blaster on our Challengers but on our Jeep Wrangler I use the Great White Drying Towel. It takes me three towels to dry it. The first two towels are totally saturated. The third I use to go back pick up the water that I missed. For a F140 you may need more towels. The Master Blaster(Revolution) is a lot of money initially but it pays for itself. I have had mine for 3 years and an important part of my detailing process.

[goheels]

Just wondering if I am missing what everyone loves about the drying towels?

-Brad

Following the advice given here, pool rinsing first (on a car that has a coat of wax and/or sealant so the water sheets off) will go a long way in helping you dry the vehicle. I think the drying towels do a decent job, but as mentioned before you always run the risk of inducing marring/scratching the paint when you rub on it.

 

After receiving the master blaster last year, my drying towels have stayed unused in the closet. Think of it as a down-the-road kind of item since it is a pricey purchase. (Also shop around.). But over the long run you save a bunch of money/time by not having to correct the paint nearly as often, constantly buy towels as they get used, etc.

[chops1sc]

I meant to add this too, I recently got a CR spotless water system and I no longer will be toweling dry unless I am doing another step afterwards or if I am working on someone elses vehicle and they want it dry. Once the water is gone (without spots  ) I will go back and do a detail spray wipedown with a softer towel.

[GXPaycheck]

You will eventually get a Master Blaster. Watch for sales! That helps. Dittos on the pooling rinse!

[Dwhite0960]

Some good advice so far as always here. I personally don't have large funds and my towel game is what I consider weak in the drying dept. I will dry with detail spray and the water will run off the car that's it helping you out, once the towel is no longer effective at removing the water i will wring it out and get back after it. Microfiber towles pick water up better damp than fully dry to me personally. If there is a small amount of water marks behind get a doible soft and finish with a detail soray wipe down that should do the trick. Once you get sealant or wax on the truck the pooling rinse will really improve. Sealant also helps keep the paint cleaner in my opinon the rain will knock of surface dust etc

[PHOKUS]

To add yet another approach, I have been doing Rinseless washes for the last few weeks and I love it! Less water collects (if any) and I use less water as well. 

 

I have tried both Waterless Wash and diluted Rinseless Wash (5:1 Distilled Water: Rinseless) as a pre-treat for bugs and I have found that Waterless does a MUCH better job at breaking up bugs. Even baked on bugs wipe off with very little rubbing required. 

 

If you can, buy your towels in bulk. You pay more initially, but the cost per towel is much lower. 

[butters]

If you have a cannon, you really don't need Adam's foam gun. Instead, invest in the blaster sidekick - it's cheaper and I'm in love with mine.

 

I only ever use the great white towel when doing 2 cars at a time, because with a good sheet rinse (pool rinse) and hitting the cracks / biggest water drops with the blaster, I can dry my car with the smaller waterless wash towels and the aid of Detail Spray, and not come close to soaking the towel.

 

One other thing to note - microfiber towels do really well with being wrung out and continuing effectively. In fact I think consensus is that they work better when "damp." So next time if you're finding the towel to be soaked quickly, give it a good wring to get the bulk of water out, and then keep going.

Edited July 14, 2016 by butters

[LT1xL82]

...

One other thing to note - microfiber towels do really well with being wrung out and continuing effectively. In fact I think consensus is that they work better when "damp." So next time if you're finding the towel to be soaked quickly, give it a good wring to get the bulk of water out, and then keep going.

Exactly!

[blacked_out]

Thanks for all of the advice!  I was looking at the sidekick.  I am not buying a MB yet..... or for a while!  I think first step is to get a good detail on this thing:

 

- Waterless on the bugs

- 2 Bucket Wash

- Clay (with detail spray)

- Revive Polish (dealer lot water spots)

- Paint Sealant

 

Anything needed after the sealant to lay the foundation?  I have heard of some waxing OVER the sealant (in addition).

 

It sounds like after I do this, when I wash and pool rinse the next time, things should go smoother for me.

[rrmccabe]

Wax over the sealant. For your needs Americana sounds best.

 

Keeping a good coat of wax on top will reduce chances of damage from washing. Especially with black.

[jeverton]

I agree the Masterblaster Revolution is a goddess to properly drying your car! I just used mine for the first time today along with the Adam's Detail Spray -- simply amazing.

[pirahnah3]

I agree, 1 Towel will not fit your needs, I have several that I use when drying my F250 CC, however I am much happier with the use of my master blaster side kick, its a bit small for a whole vehicle but can work. Makes it really easy to dry with no scratches. 

 

With the detail spray you dont need much at all. That said, if your vehicle is not too dirty a rinseless wash or a waterless wash may make your life a bit eaiser. 

[LT1xL82]

How is Detail Spray used when drying with a blower?

[butters]

How is Detail Spray used when drying with a blower?

From what I've read, with the big master blaster it's possible to completely dry the car without any detail spray or towel drying. If some spots are still a little wet, detail spray would be spritzed prior to using the towel.

 

After a sheet rinse, what I do with my sidekick is hit all the panel edges, badges, door handles, rain gutters, grills, license plate, wheels and tires, sideview mirrors etc., and then finish up with a detail spray wipedown to pick up the remaining water from the bigger panels, windows and so on. Basically eliminating the bulk of the water for minimal towel use, and preventing those annoying drips.

Edited July 16, 2016 by butters

[LT1xL82]

That makes sense. For the life of me I couldn't envision drying using Detail Spray without a towel! LOL

[imcrazy]

I'd go for the spotless rinse system over the master blaster... It's the next thing on my list. I have a nice TORO leaf blower that I've used to dry the vehicles, it's pain. Drying with towels always nets me a lot of static build up which makes my truck or car a dust magnet.

[Chris@Adams]

So.  New to Adam's products.  About 3 washes in, no intense details YET.  I have a Shadow Black F150 and am trying to do things right from the start with this.

 

I am using a canon, not Adam's, YET.... and a 2 bucket wash.  Bugs are a bit of a challenge, but everyone has said to get some rinseless (next order).

 

My question is this.  My first 2 times washing, I used H2O G&G to dry (wet method).  Work fantastic!  Tonight I tried to use detail spray and a great white drying towel.  No such luck!  The spray made the water start to run, but the towels got too wet to where they weren't drying anymore.  I switched to the G&G towels, and it seemed to work, but got dark as I was finishing...we will see how it looks tomorrow morning!

 

Just wondering if I am missing what everyone loves about the drying towels?

-Brad

 

For you final rinse do you take your nozzle off and do a pool rinse? It will make the water sheet off, way easier to dry.

[Ricky Bobby]

How is Detail Spray used when drying with a blower?

Since I use the sidekick a lot I usually can get it 80% or more dry with it if my sealant is fresh.

 

As long as the surface is cool I usually spritz the car down while wet, blow the bulk off, then do a final wipe with a spritz or two per panel after I'm done blowing.

 

This also works when the surface is warmer to lubricate the surface with detail spray so you're avoiding spots.

[blacked_out]

Ok.  I have my plan.  Looks like a Sidekick is in my future as I can't spring for the Master Blaster yet.  $400 is a lot of dough...even with this week's 15% discount..... So, that being said, if you all had to make a choice for one or the other, would you buy the canon (I have a gas pressure washer) or the Sidekick if you couldn't order both at the same time?  I currently have a (Walmart special) foam gun, and it doesn't produce a lot of foam and wants me to use A LOT of soap.

Edited July 21, 2016 by blacked_out

[Beemer]

Sidekick.

 

A standard two-bucket wash will be fine. But being able to blow water out of the cracks and crevices is essential to good detailing.

[rrmccabe]

I would buy the sidekick.  I personally think you will get more use out of it than a Canon. 

 

I have almost retired my pressure washer anyway. Just doesn't fit with my Adams regiment anymore.