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Working with Paint Protection Film...?


PT3

Question

Couple things:

1. Boy, this Porsche black paint is SOFT!!! Scratches SOO easily. Yikes....

2. I had PPF applied to the entire front clip and key areas around the vehicle.

 

Questions:

1. Assuming any polish won't have ANY effect, correct?

2. Assuming I can wax, seal, glaze and expect similar results in terms of protection, gloss, and shine...?

3. What else should I know about maintaining, detailing, general care when it comes to PPF...?

 

Thanks!

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Hey Phil, great questions!

 

1. Some polishes, sealants, and waxes may not be 100% compatible with the PPF. Which brand of PPF do you have on the car specifically? Some manufacturers have requirements about what chemicals can and cannot be used on them. Damage can occur if you try to machine polish the film too much and get it too hot. I have used our Finishing Polish and a White Foam Pad on some films without much issue, but you need to always be aware of surface temperature and stay away from all edges of the film.

 

2. In most cases, you can wax/seal/glaze over PPF and expect the same results as on paint in terms of protection and water beading. Gloss and shine should be excellent as well, but if there are any scratches or swirl marks underneath the PPF, they cannot be fixed.

 

3. When sealing/glazing/waxing PPF, you want to make sure to avoid the edge seams of the material, so that you do not have a visible line where product builds up at the edge. This can also weaken the bond at that edge over time. Always wipe in the direction of the edge when washing or drying the vehicle, never perpendicular across the PPF for the same reason of weakening the edge. Some PPF manufacturers state not to use any products that contains Kerosene or Naphtha or dyes that may dull the film. I have used many of our products will excellent results though.

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I'd love to hear a definitive answer about Adams Glaze on Xpel Ultimate.

 

I have heard everything from "No, it has petroleum Distillates." to "Not enough petroleum distillates to worry about, just stay away from the edges."

 

So...I've erred on the side of caution and not used it on the Xpel Ultimate wrapped Z06. That car is the one car I'd really like to use Adam's Glaze!  :)

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Follow the manufacturer's instructions - if its Xpel Ultimate, I wouldn't be polishing the film - Just keep it clean and sealed, since it self heals.

 

Yes Porsche black is soft, especially non-metallic black.  Have fun washing every 2 hours LOL

 

Since you also have the wallet for the PPF - invest the $360 in the Master Blaster, like I told you in the last thread - then you can blowdry the car and only use single or double softs for final wipes :)

Edited by Ricky Bobby
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I have 3M on my cars and I don't treat it any differently than the rest of the car. Only issue I have with the film is that my Vette is super white, and even though the film is clear, the first place that dust and dirt collects is along the top edges of the film. One spot in particular has driven me nuts for two years, so the car is in the shop right now getting that spot removed.  Never had any problems with any Adam's products affecting the film.  :2thumbs:

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Follow the manufacturer's instructions - if its Xpel Ultimate, I wouldn't be polishing the film - Just keep it clean and sealed, since it self heals.

 

Yes Porsche black is soft, especially non-metallic black.  Have fun washing every 2 hours LOL

 

Since you also have the wallet for the PPF - invest the $360 in the Master Blaster, like I told you in the last thread - then you can blowdry the car and only use single or double softs for final wipes :)

It's Suntek film.

 

And someone else in that thread said I could continue to use my electric leaf blower that has NEVER been used for leaves. Lol

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Hey Phil, great questions!

 

1. Some polishes, sealants, and waxes may not be 100% compatible with the PPF. Which brand of PPF do you have on the car specifically? Some manufacturers have requirements about what chemicals can and cannot be used on them. Damage can occur if you try to machine polish the film too much and get it too hot. I have used our Finishing Polish and a White Foam Pad on some films without much issue, but you need to always be aware of surface temperature and stay away from all edges of the film.

 

2. In most cases, you can wax/seal/glaze over PPF and expect the same results as on paint in terms of protection and water beading. Gloss and shine should be excellent as well, but if there are any scratches or swirl marks underneath the PPF, they cannot be fixed.

 

3. When sealing/glazing/waxing PPF, you want to make sure to avoid the edge seams of the material, so that you do not have a visible line where product builds up at the edge. This can also weaken the bond at that edge over time. Always wipe in the direction of the edge when washing or drying the vehicle, never perpendicular across the PPF for the same reason of weakening the edge. Some PPF manufacturers state not to use any products that contains Kerosene or Naphtha or dyes that may dull the film. I have used many of our products will excellent results though.

Thanks Dan. This all seems logical to me.

 

The film is Suntek

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Yes, Suntek is self healing.  

 

I usually will polish with PFP on white but rarely PCP on orange.  It's counter productive to polish the clear film since it's actually "working against you" if that makes sense.  In other words, you're trying to put pressure on it to remove a defect and all the while, it just yields to the pressure and then reforms back to the way it was.  I have had success in polishing off light scuffs and marring but that's about it.  

 

I get a lot of older cars with banged up edges and I will sometimes offer to trim them for my customers, but that's obviously not something that the unskilled should attempt so as others have suggested, keep clay bars, towels and buffers away from edges.

 

As far as LSP's are concerned, I have put pretty much anything and everything on film with no ill effects but yes, you should always proceed with caution.  Liquids are fine (LPS, Buttery, HGG, Brilliant Glaze) but I don't use paste like Americana.

 

Hope that helps!

 

- Darryl

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No "issue", just very difficult to remove and no real added benefit. Go with LPS.

New Americana remedies the easy on and off IMO.

 

But I do agree. For the anti static and extra slickness and durability that a sealant offers - I would only use paint sealant on the PPF

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Thank you for the replies.

 

I used the new Americana by hand and it went on/off easily.

 

The car is a road dust magnet (both before and after using Americana)...whether wax or sealant, I use Detail Spray as a drying aid. I suspect that may be the primary "magnet" for dust.

 

Regardless, I'll try LPS instead of Americana the next time and compare results.

Edited by LT1xL82
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