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The website claims that it sets up in 3-5 minutes.  I usually make my way around the car and wait a few minutes and then start removing it in the order you applied.  If I'm doing a wax topcoat, I'll go for it right after sealant removal.

The website claims that it sets up in 3-5 minutes.  I usually make my way around the car and wait a few minutes and then start removing it in the order you applied.  If I'm doing a wax topcoat, I'll go for it right after sealant removal.

The website claims that it sets up in 3-5 minutes.  I usually make my way around the car and wait a few minutes and then start removing it in the order you applied.  If I'm doing a wax topcoat, I'll go for it right after sealant removal.

Yeah, the shoe cleaner was too aggressive for the bottle they put it on.  I recall seeing a thread about this issue on the collectors page on facebook.

Wash > Iron Remover > Clay Bar > Polish > Seal.

Any of the following would work.
 
Wash with Strip Wash.
Add some APC in the bucket with regular Car Shampoo and wash like regular.
Foam the car with APC and then wash like normal.  This is what I do on customers cars (generally pretty neglected).
 
The claying process will remove anything left after the wash process.

No, the tips are not interchangeable nor are the insides of the "lid".  The foamer is an aerator where the sprayer is just a sprayer.  The only thing interchangeable between the 2 is the bottle part.
 
I believe that's the answer you are looking for.
 

Well I guess you have 2 options then, brushed finish or polished.  Both processes start out the same.  Brushed finish will look something like your older pictures.
 
I would start with 220 grit sandpaper to knock down the bulk of the corrosion and pitting and work your way up to 1000 or 1500.  You'll end up with something similar to what you had in your before pics.  On the last stage of sanding, try to sand in a uniform motion around the wheel so you get a nice consistent look.  Here's a link for reference.  https://www.clublexus.com/forums/the-tire-rack-s-tires-wheels-and-brakes-forum/522813-diy-brushed-aluminium-wheels.html
 
If you want to polish, start with the above process.  The kit that Devon linked would be great to start with, those buffers are 1/4" shank so they won't fit in a Dremel but you can use them in a die grinder or on a drill. A good step after that would be a Powerball with something like Adams metal polish.  Think of those compound bars as Adams Heavy Correcting Compund and Adams Metal Polish is more like the Finishing Polish.
 
Then maintain with Eco Wheel Cleaner or just shampoo and touch up every once in a while.  Aluminum is pretty sensitive to harsh chemicals.  Hope that helps a little.

If you aren't looking to maintain them as aluminum needs, I would look into getting them sandblasted and powdercoated. 
 
If you're wanting a polished finish, you'll need to sand them down first to get rid of the severe pitting and step out your polishes to bring the shine back.  Adams metal polishes aren't really designed for that level of polishing.  Not saying it can't be done but it's a lot of work for what looks to be a beater/winter vehicle.

Yep, I've never thrown a coating towel away.  I keep a bucket close by with apc and water in it and throw it in there after using.  I let them soak for a while before washing.

One thing to watch out for with Adam's metal polish is that it's extremely watery.  I personally wouldn't use it on anything other than a drill with an adapter.  Even then, it slings all over the place. 
 
A traditional aluminum rouge on a rotary would probably be much better suited for this application.

I washed all my white towels with some brand new red ones a while back.  All my towels are pink lol

In short, yes to all of the above.  Regarding the finishing polish, the foam may actually be too soft to get the polish to work.  Even the white finishing pads are firmer than the red or gray.
 
But for wax or sealant, the red is just as good as the gray.

Thanks.  I’ll use it for the wax.  

In short, yes to all of the above.  Regarding the finishing polish, the foam may actually be too soft to get the polish to work.  Even the white finishing pads are firmer than the red or gray.
 
But for wax or sealant, the red is just as good as the gray.

I run a waterjet, vertical mill, lathe, 3D printer, press brake, do metal coatings and powdercoating.  If it cuts metal or has to do with metal, I can probably run it lol.

This heats my 1300 square foot detached, decently insulated garage pretty well.  https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dyna-Glo-50K-80K-BTU-LP-Convection-Heater-RMC-LPC80DG/202895381
 
I just moved to this from a kerosene torpedo heater, less smell, propane is cheaper than kerosene, and more BTUs.  I spend a pretty good amount of time in the garage but I can't afford to do a true wall mount propane system right now.  This is pretty good deal for $100 plus whatever a tank will cost you.

New memeber. From Cecil County, MD. Own a 2014 WRX. I have a company truck so when I drive my car I want it to be clean. Had my car detailed by a good friend of mine who introduced me to Adams polishes. I’m hooked on the shine. Had my first order come in and can’t wait for the rain to stop to clean my ride again. 

Thanks man!  The Bentley was just something different from what we usually work on. I’m not the biggest fan of luxury cars, but to actually be inside one was pretty awesome to see the litter finer points of it. It’s actually a pretty cool car up close. Oh yeah, and twin turbos don’t hurt it any either. 
 
I’d still love to get a McLaren in. That’s my dream car...both to own and work on. Maybe someday. 
 
 
The top of the Bentley is a soft top that has a hard frame on it. So it’s treated like fabric. We clean them through normal washing and then cleaning with a boars hair brush and carpet and upholstery cleaner. To protect the fabric when it’s all done, we use either GTechniq Fabric Guard AB or Cquartz fabric. 303 and RaggTop both also make great products for convertible tops. I usually don’t openly recommend products in the open forum other than Adams but since they don’t make a product for this application yet, it should be allowed. 
 
The fabric protection really should be reapplied approximately every six months to maintain it. 

You guys are killing it and the waiting list is a good problem to have.  I have to admit that the Bentley doesn't do anything for me but I would love to own that '01 Cadillac. Keep it up guys.

I've been using Adams Paint Sealant for years and it always leaves a haze.  The current Paint Sealant is much better than the last version at least.  I always follow up with brilliant glaze to remove it.  And if there's a few really stubborn ones, they usually come off with the first wash.
 
Also, I would recommend coating prep between polishing and sealing.  And last, I don't bother drying the car before claying but I work in a garage.

I've been using Adams Paint Sealant for years and it always leaves a haze.  The current Paint Sealant is much better than the last version at least.  I always follow up with brilliant glaze to remove it.  And if there's a few really stubborn ones, they usually come off with the first wash.
 
Also, I would recommend coating prep between polishing and sealing.  And last, I don't bother drying the car before claying but I work in a garage.

My winter prep is a good solid wash, clay, paint sealant day.  I wouldn't really worry about polishing anything since the salt is gonna tear it up anyway.  Then every couple washes or so, throw a coat of H2OGG on.  Also, don't forget the glass sealant and hit it with the glass boost when you do the H2OGG.  Then when spring rolls around, clay all the crap off from winter and go ahead with the waxes and all that. 
P.S. If I know its gonna snow the next day, I usually spray the inner fenders and spots where I know snow will want to build up with the Undercarriage Spray.  It helps keep it from sticking.

I've foamed the Iron Remover.  Worked just fine for me.

Foam it and get a junky sponge to hit all the powdered stuff.  I would maintain it with Ceramic Boost.  And take a lug nut bussh and clean along your pinch weld seem under the doors!