shane@detailedreflections

A couple of things. Your post would be much easier to read with some paragraphs. Reading a wall of text like that makes it possible to miss some points. 
 
A “one step polish” is literally just that. It’s a polish only and typically a diminishing abrasive that goes from a medium aggregate to a fine aggregate. This will remove imperfections. It will not finish down like a true finishing polish or cut like a compound. This is for your clients who want improvement, not perfection. 
 
An “all in one” is essentially a polish and protection in one. Usually less powerful in cut than even the one step polishes. All in one products are full of compromises because it’s doing multiple jobs. It will never function as well as separate dedicated products. Protection isn’t long lived. We use an all in one as an economy one step polish. We upcharge for different steps and better protection. 
 
If you’re going into polishing for money, there’s a few points I feel need mentioning. First is to get yourself a paint thickness gauge of some kind. It’s invaluable in knowing what you’re working with and how aggressive you can (or more importantly can’t) be. Once you take money from someone for a service, you’re a professional. An “oops” has to be fixed. An oops in polishing can mean repainting at your expense. Know what you’re working with to work confidently.
 
The next point is to not underestimate the cost of the proper tools. We have more polishers than most and you don’t need to go to that extreme, but you will need more than one polisher to do most jobs without cutting corners. 
 
Also from a business standpoint don’t underestimate the expense and number of pads you will need and will burn through. You can’t stop working on a clients car because you smoke a pad. You need a bunch of them. We have six or seven different pads (different cuts, wool/foam, etc) and we keep a bunch of each. This expense needs to be figured into your pricing and you need to sit on stock. 
 
Polishes can be kept as simple as compound, correcting and finishing. The line we use gives us seven or eight options  so we can typically find just the right amount of cut. 
 
Practice polishing a bunch before you take money and invest in the proper equipment to do it as a business. 

Exactly this. It’ll be great for blowing out seams and all. But it won’t move the volume a master blaster would. Volume has a place, and pressure has its place. They aren’t necessarily interchangeable with the same results. 

I do have the ability to cut and sell ppf in kit form if someone needs it. Even if it’s just for the headlights. 

I do have the ability to cut and sell ppf in kit form if someone needs it. Even if it’s just for the headlights. 

Skip the second strip wash. It’s not really needed. In fact, strip wash by itself when polishing is a bit of a waste. Pretty much nobody else makes a strip wash. Polishing will remove anything left on the paint if anything is there. 

Yep.  Listen to Shane.  He's the man.

I would wash before I iron remove. You don’t want the dirt to block the iron remover from working. 
 
Wash. Iron. Clay. Etc. 

I do have the ability to cut and sell ppf in kit form if someone needs it. Even if it’s just for the headlights. 

You’d cringe at the colors of some of our towels. We toss them when they don’t feel good any more. The color doesn’t matter. No two of ours are the same unless they’re brand new. 

You have the answer already. The power of steam. One of the big benefits to steam (besides it being awesome with heat and all that) is that you don’t need so much (if any) chemical. Maybe a little diluted APC (the steam will make it stronger so it can be cut pretty far) and steam it out and you’re good to go. Our steamer we can mix chemical right into the steamer. We use diluted APC in ours. So very diluted APC, steam and a microfiber towel. Your client will be happy and you’ll have one of the cleanest panels you’ve ever done. 
 
 
Leather conditioner is a great dressing for things other than leather. We use it frequently on dashes and door panels. It streamlines the work since it’s usually already out with an applicator. 

You have the answer already. The power of steam. One of the big benefits to steam (besides it being awesome with heat and all that) is that you don’t need so much (if any) chemical. Maybe a little diluted APC (the steam will make it stronger so it can be cut pretty far) and steam it out and you’re good to go. Our steamer we can mix chemical right into the steamer. We use diluted APC in ours. So very diluted APC, steam and a microfiber towel. Your client will be happy and you’ll have one of the cleanest panels you’ve ever done. 
 
 
Leather conditioner is a great dressing for things other than leather. We use it frequently on dashes and door panels. It streamlines the work since it’s usually already out with an applicator. 

Like anything...do a test spot. It shouldn’t take much to knock them down. If you use a heavier grit, you just make more work for yourself to bring them back. 

We offer odor elimination via use of an ozone generator. But keep in mind that if you use ozone, you need to let the vehicle air out for a long time before returning it to your client. 
 
Ozone for us is a separate service and is never included in a base price of service. Our ozone machine didn’t come for free, and it’s a piece of equipment not everyone has so it comes with a price. 
 
Ozone does work to eliminate odors. It’s not hype, it actually works on a molecular level to destroy odors. @pirahnah3 provided a great explanation at one point about how they work here on another thread of mine.
 
The answer in this case I still feel is steam. Lots of it. And if you already have a steamer, you should be using it. 

We offer odor elimination via use of an ozone generator. But keep in mind that if you use ozone, you need to let the vehicle air out for a long time before returning it to your client. 
 
Ozone for us is a separate service and is never included in a base price of service. Our ozone machine didn’t come for free, and it’s a piece of equipment not everyone has so it comes with a price. 
 
Ozone does work to eliminate odors. It’s not hype, it actually works on a molecular level to destroy odors. @pirahnah3 provided a great explanation at one point about how they work here on another thread of mine.
 
The answer in this case I still feel is steam. Lots of it. And if you already have a steamer, you should be using it. 

You’re on the right track with wetsanding them. Sand them down, then polish them back to life. Once you’re satisfied you can take some trim coating and go over them to reseal them. 

You have the answer already. The power of steam. One of the big benefits to steam (besides it being awesome with heat and all that) is that you don’t need so much (if any) chemical. Maybe a little diluted APC (the steam will make it stronger so it can be cut pretty far) and steam it out and you’re good to go. Our steamer we can mix chemical right into the steamer. We use diluted APC in ours. So very diluted APC, steam and a microfiber towel. Your client will be happy and you’ll have one of the cleanest panels you’ve ever done. 
 
 
Leather conditioner is a great dressing for things other than leather. We use it frequently on dashes and door panels. It streamlines the work since it’s usually already out with an applicator. 

I’ll expand on this a little bit. You can install coatings “mobile.” Ideally though you have a garage or a covered area to work. Heat and humidity play such a large variable in terms of flash and curing times that experience will tell you how to alter your timing for each scenario. 
 
The ideal scenario for coatings is a controlled environment. Curing times vary, but we won’t let a coating out the same day it was applied. It’s an overnight visit. I don’t want a vehicle sent out and exposed where a client can come back and have us redo it at our expense to satisfy them. If a client wanted to pick up a vehicle early, I’d have a signed copy of the release basically saying they acknowledge they’re picking it up early and any issues are on them at that point. Oh, and a ton of photos. 
 
Installing coatings isn’t for every detailer. Maybe they don’t fit into your lineup of products?  Maybe they do?  Keep in mind to truly offer a full coating install you need the ability to remove wheels so barrels can be coated too. Not everyone has barrels done, but we do far more wheels off coatings than wheels on. Our prices also reflect that level of work. 
 
Your issue with coatings and the Adam’s video are misguided. Coatings have nuances. One is the proper environment for the best result in application. This isn’t an Adam’s issue, it’s a reflection of your business model. Not to say it’s broken, but it may not fit. 
 
As for policies after a coating, it’s up to you. We advise no wash for seven days. It can get wet when we let it go. And we’ve kept it for the initial cure. 
 
The big takeaway is that not every product fits every user. Know what to try and what not to. 

I’ll expand on this a little bit. You can install coatings “mobile.” Ideally though you have a garage or a covered area to work. Heat and humidity play such a large variable in terms of flash and curing times that experience will tell you how to alter your timing for each scenario. 
 
The ideal scenario for coatings is a controlled environment. Curing times vary, but we won’t let a coating out the same day it was applied. It’s an overnight visit. I don’t want a vehicle sent out and exposed where a client can come back and have us redo it at our expense to satisfy them. If a client wanted to pick up a vehicle early, I’d have a signed copy of the release basically saying they acknowledge they’re picking it up early and any issues are on them at that point. Oh, and a ton of photos. 
 
Installing coatings isn’t for every detailer. Maybe they don’t fit into your lineup of products?  Maybe they do?  Keep in mind to truly offer a full coating install you need the ability to remove wheels so barrels can be coated too. Not everyone has barrels done, but we do far more wheels off coatings than wheels on. Our prices also reflect that level of work. 
 
Your issue with coatings and the Adam’s video are misguided. Coatings have nuances. One is the proper environment for the best result in application. This isn’t an Adam’s issue, it’s a reflection of your business model. Not to say it’s broken, but it may not fit. 
 
As for policies after a coating, it’s up to you. We advise no wash for seven days. It can get wet when we let it go. And we’ve kept it for the initial cure. 
 
The big takeaway is that not every product fits every user. Know what to try and what not to. 

I’ll expand on this a little bit. You can install coatings “mobile.” Ideally though you have a garage or a covered area to work. Heat and humidity play such a large variable in terms of flash and curing times that experience will tell you how to alter your timing for each scenario. 
 
The ideal scenario for coatings is a controlled environment. Curing times vary, but we won’t let a coating out the same day it was applied. It’s an overnight visit. I don’t want a vehicle sent out and exposed where a client can come back and have us redo it at our expense to satisfy them. If a client wanted to pick up a vehicle early, I’d have a signed copy of the release basically saying they acknowledge they’re picking it up early and any issues are on them at that point. Oh, and a ton of photos. 
 
Installing coatings isn’t for every detailer. Maybe they don’t fit into your lineup of products?  Maybe they do?  Keep in mind to truly offer a full coating install you need the ability to remove wheels so barrels can be coated too. Not everyone has barrels done, but we do far more wheels off coatings than wheels on. Our prices also reflect that level of work. 
 
Your issue with coatings and the Adam’s video are misguided. Coatings have nuances. One is the proper environment for the best result in application. This isn’t an Adam’s issue, it’s a reflection of your business model. Not to say it’s broken, but it may not fit. 
 
As for policies after a coating, it’s up to you. We advise no wash for seven days. It can get wet when we let it go. And we’ve kept it for the initial cure. 
 
The big takeaway is that not every product fits every user. Know what to try and what not to. 

I’ll expand on this a little bit. You can install coatings “mobile.” Ideally though you have a garage or a covered area to work. Heat and humidity play such a large variable in terms of flash and curing times that experience will tell you how to alter your timing for each scenario. 
 
The ideal scenario for coatings is a controlled environment. Curing times vary, but we won’t let a coating out the same day it was applied. It’s an overnight visit. I don’t want a vehicle sent out and exposed where a client can come back and have us redo it at our expense to satisfy them. If a client wanted to pick up a vehicle early, I’d have a signed copy of the release basically saying they acknowledge they’re picking it up early and any issues are on them at that point. Oh, and a ton of photos. 
 
Installing coatings isn’t for every detailer. Maybe they don’t fit into your lineup of products?  Maybe they do?  Keep in mind to truly offer a full coating install you need the ability to remove wheels so barrels can be coated too. Not everyone has barrels done, but we do far more wheels off coatings than wheels on. Our prices also reflect that level of work. 
 
Your issue with coatings and the Adam’s video are misguided. Coatings have nuances. One is the proper environment for the best result in application. This isn’t an Adam’s issue, it’s a reflection of your business model. Not to say it’s broken, but it may not fit. 
 
As for policies after a coating, it’s up to you. We advise no wash for seven days. It can get wet when we let it go. And we’ve kept it for the initial cure. 
 
The big takeaway is that not every product fits every user. Know what to try and what not to. 

You’re very welcome. Happy to help. Adams keeps the line pretty simple. And one other thing to consider is just because one combination worked one vehicle doesn’t mean similar damage on another vehicle. Different brands have different paints. For example...Mercedes paint is crazy hard. It takes way more to correct than say Honda or Subaru paint which tends to be pretty soft. Honda paint also tends to be a little thin in our experience. 
 
The test spot should always be step one since every car and every paint job is different regardless of damage. 
 
We actually go to the level of measuring the paint to know what we have to work with. It’s a luxury most weekend warriors don’t have (a generic paint gauge can be had for less than $150, but they don’t last long in our experience). But if you’re doing a lot of work, it’s absolutely something to consider investing in. 

I can’t stress the importance of least to most aggressive methods enough. Try a test spot. You may be surprised at what correcting polish will do. Or even just a finishing polish. You may not need to go to a compound. Maybe you do?  But if you don’t, and you use a compound you’re spending time you don’t need to spend and removing clear coat you don’t need to remove. 
 
For reference, in the line of polishes/compounds we use we have seven or eight different ones. It helps us really dial in “just the right amount of aggressive.” This is true particularly when you match it to the five or six different pad types/cut we have. We have one compound that will matte your finish and allow you to polish it back. It’s not commonly used for other than scratch removal, but we have the option. Most people don’t need that varied of a product line, but it just reminds you of the variables you can encounter when working with paint and sometimes you don’t need that super aggressive stuff. 
 
It seems the idea of a test spot is quickly forgotten. 
 
 

I can’t stress the importance of least to most aggressive methods enough. Try a test spot. You may be surprised at what correcting polish will do. Or even just a finishing polish. You may not need to go to a compound. Maybe you do?  But if you don’t, and you use a compound you’re spending time you don’t need to spend and removing clear coat you don’t need to remove. 
 
For reference, in the line of polishes/compounds we use we have seven or eight different ones. It helps us really dial in “just the right amount of aggressive.” This is true particularly when you match it to the five or six different pad types/cut we have. We have one compound that will matte your finish and allow you to polish it back. It’s not commonly used for other than scratch removal, but we have the option. Most people don’t need that varied of a product line, but it just reminds you of the variables you can encounter when working with paint and sometimes you don’t need that super aggressive stuff. 
 
It seems the idea of a test spot is quickly forgotten. 
 
 

I can’t stress the importance of least to most aggressive methods enough. Try a test spot. You may be surprised at what correcting polish will do. Or even just a finishing polish. You may not need to go to a compound. Maybe you do?  But if you don’t, and you use a compound you’re spending time you don’t need to spend and removing clear coat you don’t need to remove. 
 
For reference, in the line of polishes/compounds we use we have seven or eight different ones. It helps us really dial in “just the right amount of aggressive.” This is true particularly when you match it to the five or six different pad types/cut we have. We have one compound that will matte your finish and allow you to polish it back. It’s not commonly used for other than scratch removal, but we have the option. Most people don’t need that varied of a product line, but it just reminds you of the variables you can encounter when working with paint and sometimes you don’t need that super aggressive stuff. 
 
It seems the idea of a test spot is quickly forgotten. 
 
 

You’re very welcome. Happy to help. Adams keeps the line pretty simple. And one other thing to consider is just because one combination worked one vehicle doesn’t mean similar damage on another vehicle. Different brands have different paints. For example...Mercedes paint is crazy hard. It takes way more to correct than say Honda or Subaru paint which tends to be pretty soft. Honda paint also tends to be a little thin in our experience. 
 
The test spot should always be step one since every car and every paint job is different regardless of damage. 
 
We actually go to the level of measuring the paint to know what we have to work with. It’s a luxury most weekend warriors don’t have (a generic paint gauge can be had for less than $150, but they don’t last long in our experience). But if you’re doing a lot of work, it’s absolutely something to consider investing in.