PHOKUS

Clay bar or clay mitt your windows. Can also use dishsoap to strip coatings from glass. It's a good idea to seal the glass after stripping it. 

6 hours ago, Trap said:

That could be very true in this case. I guess I am a little gun shy and frustrated with the problems I am having with the Graphene Detail Spray. I  like the way it looks but have to wonder what it is has lost with the 3 ounces of separation that I had to skim off of the remaining 3/4 of a gallon. 

Call Adam's back and tell them you are not satisfied and you would either prefer a refund or a replacement gallon, and offer to return your unused product. Those two words, 'not satisfied' are all you need to get them to take action. Good luck!

I came back and re-read what I've written here and I wanted to clarify that I DO have the Graphene Ceramic Coating on my vehicle as well, which negates the need to apply the Graphene Ceramic Coating Spray. 

To sum up: I applied the Graphene Ceramic Coating. Then maintain when Graphene Car Shampoo and Graphene Detail Spray. That's it. My car looks amazing and contaminants literally fall off the paint. It's amazing!

I third the Graphene Shampoo. Paired with the Graphene Detail Spray it's the best and simplest care regimen for a coated vehicle I have ever used.

4 hours ago, Gaggz said:

Thanks again, Phokus. My first wash will be simple pH neutral shampoo with no ceramic or graphene so that I could apply ceramic boost. However, just wanted to ask why you prefer graphene shampoo / graphene detail spray over silicon shampoo / ceramic topper sprays? Is the graphene spray bit better than ceramic one and suited to Adams UV graphene ceramic coating?

I find the graphene product family goes hand in hand. The Graphene Shampoo FAR outperforms the old Car Shampoo. Then drying with Graphene Detail Spray adds an absolutely crazy amount of slickness. I don't get the same performance from the Car Shampoo + Graphene Detail Spray as I get from the Graphene Car Shampoo + Graphene Detail Spray. 

I am 100% sold on the graphene product family. Much to the chagrin of the dozens of other, fine Adams products currently lining my shelves.  I will probably start using those older products in my F&F detail jobs and give them some product. It needs to get used, and it's not - because I only use the graphene stuff now. It's just THAT good.

Make sure to follow up with leather conditioner once the stain is removed.

You're welcome. I am glad you found the information helpful.

Another couple products you might find helpful are Graphene Car Shampoo and Graphene Detail Spray. I use them both and maintenance has never been easier (I've been "hobbyist" detailing for 30 years ... 30 years wow time flies). 

Ceramic Boost is a great product as well. Welcome to the addiction.  

Much ado about nothing. Your car's paint is protected. In fact, doubly-so. 

With a hand-applied coating you will have high and low spots - it's quite simply unavoidable. The more experience you get with coatings the more level you can get the coating. You can knock some down with leveling cloths, but it's never going to be perfect. I assure you, it's all going to be okay.

To fix this, assuming the coating has fully cured, find all the high spots which will show up mostly as smears, swipes, etc. using the UV light to guide you. Use painter's tape to mark your target areas - go 30% larger than the area you need to cut. Take your DA with some medium/fine polish and a cutting pad to the known high spots.

Do NOT cut to the tape edge. Use the tape as a loose guideline but keep the pad a couple inches from the tape edge. Go slowly, very little pressure on the DA machine. Once you've knocked the high spots down, re-clean those areas with Adams prep spray, and re-apply coating to those areas. 

Just like the DA machine, do not coat to the edges of the tape. Use a VERY thin layer of coating. Focus on your timing. Once the coating flashes, wipe it to level it. Then let it cure. 

That's it. Fixed and perfect. Good luck!

EDIT: Take a look at the video below which will fully flesh out the process for ceramic coating corrective actions. 

10 hours ago, Kyle.E.Woyote said:

Awesome, thanks guys...Order #3 in as many weeks coming up then!!!

 

..."Now" I should be set for a while....lol

The Adams promise: 'Just one more order and I'll be set'.

We all say it, we all think it, but chasing that shine leads to the inevitable. If you ordered the Graphene Ceramic Coating, BE ABSOLUTELY SURE you watch the application video, read the how-to on the forums, and set aside ample time to get it done. If you follow the instructions, it's stupid easy to get a perfect coating. The UV light is a must-have to find any high spots before the coating cures.

Good luck!

5 hours ago, Levi said:

 

Thank you for this information.

 

It would be nice to get a note in the box or email for substitution(s).  Nothing.

 

Obviously, I am not the only consumer who complained about the missing items on the kit as stated on the product reviews.

 

Please accept my apologies if this is out of context.  Why are they still selling Graphene kit if it is incomplete?!?     

Levi make sure you give Adams customer service line a ring. They will absolutely make it right with you. 

2 hours ago, Kyle.E.Woyote said:

Hi there, first post..

 

I've recently converted to Adam's through my friends and was wondering on a good routine...

 

For wax, I'm using Americana (over B.Glaze) after a fresh, claybar, compound, and polish w/swirlkiller. Killer fresh start, amazing results.

 

I'm going to finish applying the B.Glaze and Americana tonight, but I'm curious on the maintenance/top-up thereafter.

 

My ole Buick doesn't ever see rain, (barely even a wash in years) is garaged and always covered. short drives here and there, occasional track visits.

 

Is detail spray the way to go? I have seen Ceramic boost mentioned in a vid even works over top of Americana for a lil extra somethin' somethin'?

 

I appreciate any input all!!

Awesome shine! 

My go-to for POP was BG then Americana. Now it's Graphene. My car has the graphene coating and I use Graphene Detail Spray as a drying agent. OMG it surpasses BG+Americana. Plus it's extremely durable and every single wash since application is super, super, super easy. 

I am not joking when I say the full Graphene line are the best products Adam's has ever developed, and I've been an Adam's fanatic since 2009 (On the forums since 2013). 

My BG and Americana are shelved for now, and that was no easy sell. Graphene is 100% where it's at!

Detailing regimen depends on what the vehicle has been through. If you're in sunny California and the temperature hovers in the mid-80's your car needs detailed far less than if you're in the rainy Pacific Northwest or in the bug-infested farm country I reside in. 

Your regimen should reflect your region, your vehicle usage, your climate, and your weather. Sounds like you've nailed it. 

Cheers!

Going to chime in here...

The Graphene products are some of the best I have ever used. Adams or otherwise. One thing I feel Adams does better than its competitors is product families. The Graphene product family is something special, though. The amount of thought that went into this product stack to make it both appealing and effective is noteworthy. Really fantastic job, Adams.

The Graphene coating is the coup de grace, though. From the UV reactive agent to the performance of the coating to the ease of use - unbelievably great work. Contaminants literally fall off my vehicle. 

The Graphene detail spray is PERFECT. I mainly use it as a drying agent. The level of slickness is crazy. I drive a lot and my vehicle sits in the sun. I live in farm country and the bugs are out in full force this time of year. After letting my car sit in direct sun all day, I grabbed a single soft and some Graphene Detail Spray and in one wipe removed baked-on bug guts. That's NUTS. Insane. And awesome. 

In my eyes, the Graphene experience really needs to start with the Graphene Ceramic Coating. Then by using the Graphene Shampoo and Graphene Detail Spray, I can maintain the coating. 

Whomever is experiencing issues with these products needs to evaluate how they're using them, maybe? One aspect of the Graphene product stack that confused me just a little is Graphene Detail Spray and Graphene Spray Coating. I know they're not the same, but they are so similarly named I wonder if some people get confused and buy the detail spray expecting to get a coating that lasts 3-6 months.  I don't know if there is enough differentiation between them in the marketing materials and packaging. 

Regardless, I LOVE the Graphene products. Nice work, Adams team!

Just wondering if anyone has thoughts on this since last October. How is the performance? Does it impact ceramic coats? I used the Graphene Ceramic Coating on all my windows. 

Thanks!

I usually see pad failure occur with:

• Overused pads
• Hot polishing surfaces - which cause rapid product retreat/evaporation
• Excessive pad pressure
• Wet pads (too soon after cleaning or too much product)
  • Accelerates heat wicking from polishing surface to hook and loop)
  • Leeches through the hook-and-loop/foam bond and lubricates the hook-and-loop causing motion and friction

There are some other isolated instances where pad damage can occur. But these are the big ones. Avoid them. And always clean your pads in warm soapy water and air dry them thoroughly. I put them in front of a fan for a full 24 hours. 

I honestly don't fret when a pad lets loose. They aren't meant to last more than a couple vehicles. Though, like Ray, I routinely get 7-10 vehicles out of mine. Just continue to develop good habits and you will naturally extend the life of your pads.

I am using Americana paste wax on top of my ceramic coating. It literally looks like the paint is dripping wet. It also has the added benefit of zero water spots. Spray your favorite detailer and wipe. No spots. 

I know exactly the spots you are talking about here. You may also want to do an assessment of your current ceramic coat. It likely needs a refresher. It sounds like you are doing a lot more washing due to the pollen, which will affect the ceramic's longevity.

To your question about CS3 durability, you can check out Chicago Auto Pros video where they tested 26 different sprays and coatings. They tested Adams GCSC  and in the final results video ( after 6 months of testing) it still retained high levels of shine and hydrophobicity. 

I totally understand your frustrations about the pollen. Maybe the car cover is the best option! Good luck!

You'll be just fine. Follow the instructions and recommended procedures (ie don't spray on hot wheels/brakes, don't let dry on rims, etc).

That's what I call a 99%. Excellent work!

Gorgeous shine!!

What I've found with Wash & Wax is I need more soap to get the results I want. I use about twice as much W&W as I do Car Shampoo. This gives me the shine and water beading I expect to see. 

Best bet here is to call Customer Service. They'll get you squared away!  

Thanks guys!  I used the Revive.  I can't tell any difference....  

Was the PPF already near-perfect? Or does it have some marring/haze?

Photos would be helpful.

While I would agree that a full wash as you describe will make the vehicle look the cleanest, but the "touchless wash" has the advantage of NOT touching the paint, eliminating any chance for swirls, thereby keeping the paint in great condition for a longer time before needing a polish.

 

I feel the "touchless wash" it is an advantageous method for a light-duty wash when you are going to be driving the vehicle again right away.  After all, 95-98% clean is good enough to drive to work on Monday, when it is going to get dusty again anyway.

I completely understand. And on lighter-colored paint, you may not notice that 5% dirty. On black paint, it shows, unfortunately. 

I honestly wish I wasn't so OCD about it - I would love to do a touchless wash!   

Taking this a step further....

I am an advocate for hand washing every time. Foam cannon + wash media w/rinse bucket is the minimum I'll ever do if the vehicle has been driven. Reason being is the vehicle is simply cleaner and looks better. And if I'm taking the time to pull out the PW and foam cannon, you can bet your bottom dollar I'm going to make the most of it.

I understand for light-duty washes you aren't wanting to touch the paint. But there's only so much a pressure washer can do. To keep the paint looking its best, hand wash is where it's at. 

Tire & Rubber Cleaner. Follow with Tire Shine. I WW the wheels using old MFs.

It's a polymer film. Hand polish. I recommend against machine polishing plastic film.