PostalTwo

Yeah I share the same sentiment. The old wesite may have not been as good but at least we could ship for free given enough money was spent. I just bit the bullet and payed my shipping but this will be the last time I think. Hopefully they have the issues resolved when I'm ready for my next order

If I was applying the stipes I would say put them directly to bare paint.No sealant,coating or film.If you like the paint protection film have it re applied after applying the stipes.If you put the stripes over the film it would not look right at the transition and it would be a potential point where moisture and dirt could get under the edge eventually.A ceramic could then be applied over everything if you like.

Don't use cheap towels on paint it's not worth it. i found out the hard way on my last vehicle . Now I spend a few extra buck and keep my ride swirl free

Don't bite off more than you can chew.
 
Take breaks! Going full tilt for 12 hours is a big mistake. You will hurt for the next few days.

Don't move the vehicle until you have completely removed the hose slides.....

Always check your nozzle on your pressure washer lance before spraying it at the car.

Don't correct a entire vehicle without doing a test section...

Pumpkin spice smells amazing imo

Don't use cheap towels on paint it's not worth it. i found out the hard way on my last vehicle . Now I spend a few extra buck and keep my ride swirl free

I would get the stripe first then coat just don't coat the stripe if u want it to stay matte . If u coat it first he is just gonna have to Polish it off so the stripe bonds proper.

If there general purpose there Probably the nicest general purpose towel I've ever used. Better than other guys premium towels. I use them to dry my truck and I prefer them to single softs

I would recommend only using Microfiber Revitalizer & Brightener without any other detergents.  MFR&B is a strong detergent designed specifically for removing waxes, polymers, polishes, and oils commonly associated with detailing.  Regular laundry detergent is not strong enough to remove many of the detailing products from towels, especially the sealants.  Delicate or baby detergents are even weaker than regular detergent, so they are not going to clean out all the detailing products.  While the towels may "look" clean after using regular or delicate detergent, this incomplete cleaning can lead to build-up deep in the fibers of the towel, making them less effective and eventually ruining them.
 
While some might use other detergents to save a little money, if you buy the MFR&B in the gallon, with a sale discount, the amount of product used for one load is less than a buck, not much compared to the cost of these premium towels.
 
While I do not use any vinegar, some people use it for the rinse cycle.  To do this, it would be placed in the fabric softener dispenser.  Putting vinegar directly into the wash load with the detergent would be counter-productive, as the vinegar would work against the detergent.
 
It is also a good idea to run a cleaning cycle on your machine before running your detailing towels, to remove any laundry soap build-up in the machine.  Before washing my Microfiber towels, I run a clean-cycle on the washer with some distilled white vinegar to break down the build-up of detergents and fabric softeners inside the machine, as this build-up is bad for the detailing towels and can also be full of contaminates (like glitter). Since MFR&B is a stronger detergent than regular laundry soap, it will break down the build-up in the washer and mix it into your load of Microfiber towels, unless you clean the washer first. The dryer can also have contaminants from other loads, such as rags, rugs or shoes. A thorough vacuuming of the dryer along with a wipe-down is good practice to prevent the clean Microfiber towels from being contaminated with stuff that can cause damage when used on your paint.  If this seems extreme, take a closer look at what gets collected in the lint screen of the dryer.

I love those towels for final detail spray wipe downs after a wash, just seem to work the best for me.

Just a thought, I went to use this stuff a few nights ago when the forums were down and while I kinda knew what the answer was I thought it would be important to point out that the label on the bottles don't say what water temperature to use when washing the towels. I got accused of not reading in a previous thread and I WAS NOT about to get the same hazing again
 
Just thought I'd throw that out there.
 
Edit: Another question in regards to the label on the bottle.. it says to machine dry on low heat but I always have heard to air dry them? Any reason why this would be different when using the new revitalizer?

Thanks Dan,
 
It would be great if Adams would step up and be more proactive here. As a Canadian effected by this, I personally feel like Adams has dropped the ball here. Especially when we are hearing about the site being compromised. What was compromised? What data was compromised? Has anything been stolen? 
 
The silence around this issue from the Adams team, and how the team is responding to the issues has been quite disturbing. 

I would love to see 2 things. The first is a dedicated spray type water spot remover. They exist, but not Adam's quality. This one is a MUST! The second product I would like to see it s dedicated RUBBER/VINYL FLOORMAT protectant. Again, this product exists but not up to Adam's standards. I recently read a post regarding the maintenance of "Weathertech" floor mats. I really feel that this product would be a great seller! Just my .02. Take it for what it's worth.  

Adam's does have a compound. The new blue heavy correcting compound utilizing blue foam pad and microfiber pads will remove help heavy swirls and do "compounding" as you put it. A DA, like swirl killer, Rupes, Porter Cable will correct most defects. Really deep scratches will need wetsanding or may be unrepairable without paint.
 
TL:DR Adam's has a compound, heavy correcting compound found here
 
http://adamspolishes.com/shop/exterior/polishing/adam-s-heavy-correcting-compound-8oz.html

still trying to figure out why you would do this?  seriously, why would you take what is considered one of the best, if not the best, car wash soap, and pollute it?  
 
this is akin to saying "i had about 2 oz of cutty sark left, but decided to pour it in my bottle of Suntory."  
 

So I poured 2ish ounces to my bucket, and the rest to my almost new Adams Car Shampoo 16oz bottle (I had only used it once to try it out from a Mystery Box).
 

I ended up ordering the SK, I'll get some 4inch pads fo the PC.
Thanks for the input everyone!

The Cyclo is so seriously smooth! 

I love my Cyclo! I have the Rupes mini, and I think its an awesome combo with only having to stock 4in pads, so much easier on the stock list. 

that's why I love my cyclo kinda best of both worlds

Id agree with that, unless you have a lot of panels on the vehicles you detail that wont fit the full sized pads. 

Imo the full size machine is your best upgrade atm. Keep the pc for 4" pads

I actually use the sidekick to dry off the majority of the water first.  Once I am done with that and blowing water out of everywhere, then I go back over the car with some detail spray and a double soft towel or 2 to remove any of the remaining residue.