FredfromFrance

People are idiots.  Present company excluded.
 

Thanks you guys, for your answers, I will let him know what you told me, we will give it a try

I still don't understand how someone can have such a dumb idea, even more when it is not your own car and was worth $140.000 😅

I have seen a car I don't know what to do about : the owner has been keen to let someone use his 2008 BMW X6M 50i Exclusive
The guy put tires on leather seats !!! You can read Michelin on those leathers! And the owner did not noticed it before weeks because he does not use the car quite often.
So, I have tried to help him, using Adam's foaming leather, boar brush and even the deep clean eraser without any luck. The leather is quite dry, must not have used conditioner for ages on thoses.

Do you have any idea? I'm not sure about using steam on this kind of leather... He is afraid he has to change his leather seats (and doors).

Thanks, 

Fred

I have seen a car I don't know what to do about : the owner has been keen to let someone use his 2008 BMW X6M 50i Exclusive
The guy put tires on leather seats !!! You can read Michelin on those leathers! And the owner did not noticed it before weeks because he does not use the car quite often.
So, I have tried to help him, using Adam's foaming leather, boar brush and even the deep clean eraser without any luck. The leather is quite dry, must not have used conditioner for ages on thoses.

Do you have any idea? I'm not sure about using steam on this kind of leather... He is afraid he has to change his leather seats (and doors).

Thanks, 

Fred

Used this on a 2006 Dodge Durango yesterday with Adams foam cannon it worked great it had a lot of bug guts tree sap (pine tree sap) it hasn't been loved in a long time also used the two bucket wash system after the car was washed I clayed it doing a complete paint correction on it .on claying it it seemed the clay was not picking up a lot of contamination I'm not sure but I think the strip wash also took off the contamination that is left with Adams car shampoo. I didn't know the strip wash did that I clayed the whole car anyway another great product from Adams good job ????????????????

Welcome. 

Welcome!

Hello and welcome

Welcome!

Nice collection!  It's only an addiction if you go to meetings.

Welcome to the forums and nice looking arsenal you have there.

That's a nice collection. I'm hoping to continue working my way up to a similar one. I have most bottles, now I need to get some gallons.

Welcome!

Hi, I'm a new member, but using Adam's Polishes for 3 years.
As I love cars, and friends mostly say I am a maniac when it comes to cars, I am now working on my own as a car detailer in Orleans, France.
I drive a British car as my daily driver, a Rover 75. Here it is



I really like the H2O Guard & Gloss, as my customers
 

I think I am already addicted... don't you think?!

The best was the OLD Adam's gray clay.  Super sticky.  I think I still have a piece of it.  The newer clay is good, but not AS good. 

wear gloves!!

This will be the first in a series of FAQ threads where I'll open up a discussion on a common concern or problem people face when detailing.
 
The last few weeks there has been a lot of emails, PM's, and calls regarding wash techniques probably due in large to the fact we're starting to get nice warm weather in many parts of the world and people are getting their rides ready for shows, cruises, or just driving around and looking good!
 
So the common concern usually comes to me something like this.
 
"I washed my car today and the soap dried on the paint. Its about 89* out and my black paint was very hot. When I went to dry the car the soap didn't come off easily. I did it exactly like the video, why is it hard to remove the soap? Is this normal?"
 
The first thing to understand is that this is very much a case of "Just becasue you can, doesn't mean you should". The soap is designed the way it is as a measure of insurance, not an excuse to be careless. Ideally you never want anything to dry on your finish, but if its completely unavoidable or happens by accident the soap drying is far safer than the alternative. The soap serves to keep the minerals suspended and being pH neutral it will not etch the paint or introduce any damage.
 
Avoid allowing the soap to dry in the first place and you'll make life much easier on yourself, but what if it does get baked on? How should you proceed?? In many cases just the act of rinsing the area one more time with water right before you start your drying routine with a Great White Drying Towel and Detail Spray will be enough to 'reactivate' the soap and make removing it easy as you dry.
 
In the event you still have some soap residue that won't come cleanly from the surface try taking a small amount of soapy water, either from your soap bucket via a clean wash pad, or a foam gun if you're working with one. Essentially you will "re-wash" that panel to remove the soap.
 
Keep in mind that dried soap on your finish is MUCH better than the alternative which is dried water that could lead to stubborn water spots and etching. 2 conditions that will require claying and/or polishing to remove.
 
SOME TIPS FOR AVOIDING DRIED SOAP:
 

Wash in the early morning or around dusk when the sun is low in the sky and much less harsh. The less direct sunlight leads to much lower surface temps and lower likelihood anything will dry on the paint.
 
Work indoors or in shade whenever possible. A kin to the first tip, reducing how much direct sunlight is on the paint while you're working is key to preventing drying and in turn makes everything easier. In the event you don't have a garage or cover to work under look into purchasing a pop up shelter. Many can be found for $150-$300 and collapse down for easy storage when not in use. Your entire care doesn't have to fit under it... position the shelter so it gives you shade in the areas you need.
 
Avoid wetting/soaping the sides of the vehicle that are in the sun until last. Nothing says you can't wash the vehicle in 2 stages. Rinse and soap the areas that are on the shad side of the vehicle first then move to the areas in the sun. Keeping the 'sun exposed' areas of the car dry until absolutely necessary buys you significantly more time before anything drying becomes a concern.
 
Spend more time on your initial rinse. 2 things cause drying - the direct heat of the sun and the indirect heat of the panel temperatures. You can reduce the surface temps of the paint by a large amount by spending more time in the initial rinsing of the panels. Soaking panels for more time with water drops the overall temps and buys you more time before the soap (once its introduced) will start drying.
 
Most of all common sense! As stated in the beginning this is a case of 'Just because you can, doesn't mean you should'. If you absolutely must work in the worst possible conditions adjust your technique to compensate, work quickly, and understand that you are creating more work for yourself by working in unforgiving circumstances. Also, DON'T PANIC! The initial response is to grab a towel and start scrubbing aggressively... understand that dried soap is a surface problem that can be corrected with the gentle approaches given above. Scrubbing at them can potentially introduce bigger problems.
 
Lastly HAVE FUN! Caring for your car is something that can be a joy or a real pain in the rear... by choosing when and how you approach your wash you dictate how it will go... so choose wisely!!

 

Welcome, nice little collection you got going.

welcome

Fredrick, you're a adams junkie, nice collection and welcome to the forum.
 
 
 

Be careful around emblems and trim with any towel. Just a small sharp edge will pull on the fibers unfortunately

I think I am already addicted... don't you think?!

Welcome from across the pond!!

Welcome to the addiction, Frederic!