Adam Tarbox

I have finished the 2 days of detailing my car, thanks to this forum. Here is the results.. 
 
Special thank you to Shane for all his advice
 
All products used was by Adams.. 
Strip wash
Viso clay
Orange correcting polish and pad
Paint sealant and pad
Americana wax

Must be nice to have two people work on one vehicle 😉

Part of being a good detailer is knowing when to do nothing to something. Wave the white flag on this one!

Good advice

You typically don’t. You replace the mirror. Mirror coatings are not crazy durable. I wouldn’t bother trying to get them out for fear of doing more damage. 
 
As an experiment to show how easily damaged mirror coatings are, get a junk mirror and play with it it sometime. Take a piece of white scotchbrite and run it around. It’ll be all scratched up good. 
 
This is a less is more situation. It’s easy to do more damage. 

As if on queue, this was today's Water Cooler Wednesday video:
 
 

I have both in my arsenal and use use Eco 80% of the time.  Here is how I decide which to use.
 
When I get older vehicles that have not been maintained and the wheels require a full decontamination, I reach for the regular wheel cleaner.  I do plenty of older vehicles, some that haven't even been washed in multiple years.  I usually start by washing the wheels with soap and water and junk towels.  Then once I can identify that fact they are actually wheels, I go to the Wheel Cleaner.  Some of the wheels are so bad it takes multiple rounds of wheel cleaner and sometimes some APC for tough spots.  I had one vehicle that sat under a pine tree for almost 5 years and had moss growing on the wheels, if that gives you and idea of some that I do.
 
For maintenance washes, the Eco Wheel Cleaner works fine and the smell doesn't choke you.  The once exception is the Range Rover, I don't know what is about the combination of the brake pads and wheels, but they get nasty very quickly.  I end up hitting them with Wheel Cleaner about every 3 months to keep them looking good.

If your wheels are absolutely trashed, then go wheel cleaner. If your vehicle usually generates a lot of brake dust, then go wheel cleaner. Eco wheel cleaner is good for light duty jobs. 
 
In my experience, I don’t see the need for eco wheel cleaner. Mainly because, just regular car shampoo and water  gets the same job done. 

I saw that, perhaps I failed to clarify my question. When it  one to over function and cleaning, is one better than the other, minus of course the lack iron remover? 

You could coat them with paint coating. Just know that paint coating doesn’t stand up to heat like wheel coating does which may shorten the lifespan of the coating. 

I have finished the 2 days of detailing my car, thanks to this forum. Here is the results.. 
 
Special thank you to Shane for all his advice
 
All products used was by Adams.. 
Strip wash
Viso clay
Orange correcting polish and pad
Paint sealant and pad
Americana wax

Skip the strip wash entirely. It’s somewhat of a step that isn’t entirely necessary. The prep process will ensure any waxes and such are removed regardless. There’s a reason many manufacturers don’t make a strip wash like product. We don’t even use a strip wash. Couple that with the fact that this vehicle has been neglected and there’s no surface protection to strip off anyway. 
 
I would foam it. A lot. Let that foam really dwell before rinsing. I’d use a pressure washer. It’s going to need to be polished out anyway so if you induce a little damage with a high pressure rinse, you’ll be getting at it anyway. 
 
I would use a clay pad on a polisher with plenty of lube. You can rinse the pads when they get dirty. Regular clay will get dirty way too quick with this. And again, marring will be handled with polishing. 
 
Pads...you’re going to need a bunch of them. So stock up. 
 
Patience is something else you’ll need a ton of. 
 
Once you get the paint decontaminated, you’ll know more about how far you can take it. 
 
Good luck. 

Thats a good one!! 
 
A friend of mine got into detailing for a few months and then put his arsenal up for sale. I messaged him asking for details. 
 
99% of his arsenal was chemical guys so I did a hard pass on that one LOL. It was $1,000 worth of stuff for $500 BUT what am I going to do with products I don't use, ya know? 

There's a very active racetrack near where I stay, so every weekend the place is full of Porsches, BMWs, Corvettes and the occasional Ferrari, but this is the first time I've seen anything so legitimately rare.  Hell, I think this might be the first time I've actually seen an R34 in real life.....

Ok, this is one of my favorite beading pics I've taken, it is from this past winter on the glass top of the wife's Veloster.
 

You can use the other products over a ceramic coating. It won’t hurt them. It simply may not be the ideal matchup. 
 
In my opinion (and opinions vary), ceramic coatings play best with other ceramic based products to maintain their function as designed. 

It depends on your budget, if you want the best just get the ceramic wax and be done with it. If you want to save some money and maybe do it a touch more often get the americana and go from there. If you really want to have fun get all three lol. 
 
In all honesty I would just get the ceramic paste wax and be done with it. 

I've been using Tuf Shine tire clearcoat for years now and it is/was a great product.  I'm certain this product will perform the same if not better.  Proper preparation is VERY important with this product.  Any old silicon product on the tires, as well as anything else for that matter, must all be removed for it to adhere properly.  Clean clean and clean the tire again until you see only white foam forming while cleaning each tire.  Any brown/yellow in the foam and there is still more cleaning to do.  But all that cleaning is worth it because once this is applied, all you really need to do is touch it up every so often with a new coat.  When applying the new coat, you don't need to do the intensive cleaning anymore, just enough to clean whatever dirt and such is on top of the tire armor.
 
When applying the tire armor, expect foaming or bubbling while it is being wiped on/applied.  That's normal as is the blueish color.  The bubbles and color will all disappear as it dries.  I've always used a small orange sponge to apply the Tuf Shine and will probably continue using it for the Tire Armor.  The sponge is from Tuf Shine tire clearcoat and it just 'works' at what it needs to do.  I kind of wish Adams didn't use a spray bottle for this but rather a bottle with a spout like the 16oz bottles of shampoo.  I wouldn't want this over spray getting on anything else on the car.  If the product gets on the rims while applying, remove it before it dries.  You can remove it if it does and it dries but it will be noticeable once dried to best to avoid to begin with or clean up quickly.
 
Just my recommendations from using a similar product for a long time now.
 

That would sound like a business I would support

Must be nice to have two people work on one vehicle 😉