stalebreadjr

Thanks man! I seen Adam demonstrate it in a video and that is one of the things that convinced me claying was a necessary step.  But i did not use it during my claying of each panel 😶 I'll "level up"my game when I do the wife's compass.  😁

Alright, let me set the stage for this one.  First off, I am by no means a professional detailer.  Prior to the last 5 months or so, I did not know anything about Adams products nor did I have any "arsenal" of products or materials.  I got started with Adams off of a post that a friend of mine liked on Instagram.  The videos intrigued me.  So I started lurking on the forums and watching videos and dipped my toe in with a mystery bucket.  That was all it took.  Now here I am, showing you what this stuff can do, and if I can do it, anyone can do it.  I don't have any polishers or any special machines, I just took a great deal of time and enjoyed working this project with my truck.  So here we go.  Oh and here is a before picture of my truck just before I started to work on it.

 
I have already posted another thread on my Interior detail and engine bay cleaning.  I started by completing those first. 
For the exterior cleaning I started with the Wheels, Tires, Wheel wells and Exhaust Tips.  Products and Materials Used:
Wheel Cleaner Tire and Rubber Cleaner ECO APC Car Shampoo Tire Brush Fender Brush Wheel Woolie Wheel Brush Lug Nut Brush Bucket of Clean Water w/ Grit Guard Tote of microfiber towels (I used the edgeless utility for any wipedown)
I started by getting my bucket half full of clean water and I added a bit of CS to it.  Here is where I kept all my brushes to be used.  I worked each wheel entirely before moving on to the next wheel.  On each wheel I would start by completely hosing down the wheel and well, removing as much dirt and grime as I could with water alone.  Then I started with the Wheel well, spraying it down with the ECO APC and using my Fender Brush that was soaking in the sudsy CS water, I would shake the excess in the bucket, then spray the brush with ECO APC and work the whole Wheel Well.  I then moved on to the tire and sprayed it down with the TRC and repeated the same steps with the Tire brush by shaking off the excess CS water and spraying the brush with a plug or 2 of TRC and working that tire.  Then lastly I used what I considered to be the most agressive product in the Wheel Cleaner and sprayed the barrels of the wheel and face really well, using the wheel woolie I scrubbed the barrels, man this is a tool that I would definitely suggest having, NO SCRAPED UP KNUCKLES!  Then I used the Wheel brush to clean off the remaining face of the wheel and finally I used the lug nut brush to clean all the spots that were hard to reach.  Now, the lug nut brush also in my opinion is crucial here.  There were spots inside the rim that did not scrub clean with the woolie that I was able to get with the lug nut brush and the same on the face of the wheel.  Highly recommended to have this guy handy.  I then sprayed down each wheel completely with water and inspected.  If there was a spot to be revisited, I did that at this time.  Now, as I used each of these tools I would give them a quick spray with the hose then scrub them on the grit guard in my bucket and let them sit there until the next wheel.  After all 4 wheels were complete I cleaned the exhaust tips with a spray or 2 of ECO APC and the wheel woolie and lug nut brush.
 
After completing all the wheels and exhaust tips, I knew I was about to wash the whole exterior, so I took this time to use the TRC and Utility Microfiber towels and clean all the oxidation I could from the rubber trim and other trim around my truck.  I would just spray into a spot on the towel and work each trim piece until that part of the towel was soiled, then rotate the spot on the towel and repeat.
 
Next I moved on to the first wash in my decontamination process.  First I prepped the area by cleaning out my wheel bucket, spraying out those tools and hanging them to dry and setting all those chemicals aside.  Next I gathered all the materials and tools for the First Strip Wash:
2 clean buckets w/ 2 clean grit guards 2 wash pads 1 microfiber Wash Mitt ( in case the pad was not aggressive enough) Adams Step Ladder Bug Remover Strip Wash Foam Cannon Pressure Washer Iron Remover

I started here by prepping all my chemicals and tools.  I mixed about 4oz of Strip wash in my Foam Cannon and set it aside.  I then followed the prep for the 2 bucket wash by filling a bucket with clean water and Grit Guard and my wash bucket with Clean water, a bit of Strip Wash and my wash pads with a squirt of Strip wash on each of them and foamed them up.  Now that I'm ready I used my pressure washer on a very mild pressure and went over the whole vehicle blasting off any bugs or obvious stuck on grime and junk.  Next I followed the method Adam used in his presentation video for the bug remover and sprayed down the grill, mirrors and windshield with the bug remover and let it sit while I hooked up my foam cannon to the pressure washer. Here is the link to the product page which is the only place I have found this video.
https://adamspolishes.com/collections/car-washing-products-best-car-shampoo/products/adams-bug-remover
I started from the back and foamed the whole truck leaving the areas where I had bug remover soaking for the very last bit of foaming, this way they got the most exposure to the bug remover and now have a mix of bug remover and strip wash on them!  TAKE THAT BUGS!!!    The hardest part of washing this truck for me is reaching every spot adequately, so I used my long Adams Step ladder and started from the roof and again followed around the vehicle leaving the Grill windshield and mirrors for last.  I'm gonna tell ya, it was pretty easy removing those bugs, and there were a lot on there.  I wish I had taken a better close up shot before and after.  I'm sold on this one.  Bug Remover will stay in my Arsenal!  Plus it smells good!  Now that the washing is done I Rinse from here.  Now, I did my rinse with my regular hose that has a multi-sprayer on it so I could control and switch from a shower spray to a stream spray if necessary.  I just personally find that easier to accomplish what I'm trying to do.  After a complete rinse, I did not dry, I worked around the vehicle with the Iron Remover panel or 2 at a time, spraying the panels, letting it sit for a couple minutes and then hosing off.  I worked in smaller sections because the wind was mildly blowing and I didn't want the stuff to dry on the truck as there are multiple warnings about letting it dry.  Now, my truck is black, so it was really hard for me to see anything happening until I actually washed it off and I could see a purple haze to the water coming off.  I pretty much used the entire bottle of this stuff on my truck, there was a little left but not enough to complete another vehicle, probably a 4th of the bottle left or less.
 
Next up was the Clay Decontamination.  For this step I had personally gone back and forth on how I wanted to complete this step.  Originally, I was going to mix up a bottle of CS diluted down and use that as my clay lube.  My thoughts were to have a lubricant that would not leave behind any protective properties since I was actively stripping that off.  Then, I had some discussion with @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin off forum about potentially just foaming each section of the vehicle that i was going to clay ensuring that I would have the lubricity there.  All in all, with the mild wind coupled with the hassle of grabbing my pressure washer each time I wanted to clay a new section, I abandoned that thought all together and just used Detail Spray.  I was able to control that and work at a steady pace and also work indoors in my garage.  Shout out to @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin for all the great detailing conversation on and off the forum!  Much appreciated!
Here are the tools I used for the Clay Decontamination:
Visco Clay Kit 1 Refill Visco Clay in case I dropped the one I was using 2 Bottles of Detail Spray Step Ladder This part of the process was brand new to me altogether.  I have never clayed a vehicle before and let me tell you, it was easier than I anticipated and very satisfying!  It is very hard to describe the feel of the process but you can "feel" what you need to clay a little more and what is done.  I really like the visco clay bar kit.  The Geo-Impression tool not only helps to mold the clay so it will pick up the contamination better, but it acts as a handle kind of and it feels good in your hands and it is very easy to hold on to.  I worked 1 panel at a time here in the garage spraying the panel with DS and then 1 shot of DS on my clay each time I started a new section or anytime it seemed like it wasn't slick and again, you can feel that.  I honestly thought I wouldn't see much on my truck because its in pretty good shape and stays in the garage when I'm not driving it, but man, there was a good bit on there and I used up the entire clay bar on the whole vehicle.  The way I approached this was kind of how I did washing the vehicle.  I did the panels that I thought were the least soiled first and left my grill and wheels for last, that way if I was picking up big bits of bug remnants or anything I was not doing that first, but rather towards the end of the clay procedure.  I made it a point also to feel the panel with my hand before and after claying.

 
Next I did a Clean Up Wash:
2 clean buckets w/ 2 clean grit guards 2 wash pads Adams Step Ladder Strip Wash Foam Cannon Pressure Washer Great White Drying Towel Accessory Drying Towel This was pretty straight forward.  Before Starting I made sure my 2 previous wash buckets were emptied and cleaned out and sprayed out with the hose as well as the wash pads thoroughly cleaned up.  I still had about a half a bottle of the strip wash from the first wash so that is what I used to foam the vehicle.  I foamed the truck and washed it top down and then rinsed with the hose thoroughly.  Since I was not going any further at the time I chose to go ahead and dry off the vehicle.  So once it was rinsed I pulled in the garage and used my GW Drying Towel to get all the big panels and then the Accessory Drying Towel for spot checking and cleaning up drips.  I did not use any form of compressed air.  In the future I will probably invest in the sidekick and this step would have probably been way easier.

Next step I took was to Polish the Truck:
Venom Gloves Revive Hand Polish Blue Hex Grip Applicator Single Soft Microfiber Towels Step Ladder Respirator
I'll be honest.  I was not going to do this step when I first started buying the tools for Ceramic Coating.  I don't own a polisher, really didn't want to make that investment right now, and have zero experience with polishing.  However, I am so glad that I took this step.  I used the least possible aggressive method by hand polishing and using Revive, but I'm telling you, it made a great deal of difference in the shine of my Clear/Paint.  I started this step with much skepticism, and ended thinking about buying a polisher and learning how to do it better.  This step took me the better half of a day to complete.  I really took my time and really focused on what I was doing and tried not to make it a chore.  I put a couple JRE podcasts on to listen to and took many breaks throughout the process.  I made sure I had comfortable seating (That Adams Rolling Detail Chair is in my future BTW  ), I took the globes off the lights in my garage to ensure I had the maximum amount of lighting and I had several LED Flashlights at my disposal to check the paint and polishing.  It took me a good bit to get the amount of polish right, there were a couple times I put too much, and in that case I just polished a bigger section and primed the pad with DS for the next bit until the polish got thin before I put more on.  After finishing this step I went ahead and cleaned up this pad with some APC and set it aside to dry.  Just polishing made a noticeable difference.
 
And here we are folks....I did all that for this moment!  It was pretty dadgum exciting!  Now is the time for the Surface Prep and Ceramic Spray Coating:
Venom Gloves Respirator Adams Surface Prep Spray Single Soft Microfiber Towels Step Ladder Microfiber Applicators Suede Removal Towels
A couple things I want to mention.  The Gloves are a must for both polishing and coating.  There is no way not to get any of this on your hands.  I had originally purchased a pair of gloves off the Adams site, but I found these Venom Gloves at Lowe's when I got my cool flow disposable respirators and I really like them.  They are very comfortable and my hands didn't sweat in them like they normally do in gloves.  I went through about 12 pairs in this whole process because I would throw them out anytime I stopped and took a break or moved to a different process.  I also highly recommend the Adams Surface Prep Spray.  I know you can mix your own but this spray was easy to use and cleaned the area well.  I could see in the Single Soft Towels where it was blue when I prepped some panels because I had not completely removed all the polish.  To my naked eye it looked as if I had, but the prep spray saw it differently  .  
 
I only took a portion of a panel at a time to complete this process.  I wanted to make sure that I was cleaning, coating and removing all before moving on.  I would prep the entire panel first and then I would coat a section around 2 x 2, let it flash, then use the suede removal towels to buff off the oils.  These suede towels are another thing that I was NOT going to use originally but I'm so glad I did.  They really made removal and buffing of the CSC easy.  I coated the entire vehicle including the wheels.  I took the advice of @falcaineer and I did not level any of the CSC that I put on the plastic trim.  Speaking of the trim, I used the small suede applicators that come in the CSC kit to apply it to my trim and wheels, all of the other areas I used the microfiber applicators.  I used 5 of the microfiber applicators in total in the process, I found that after using them for a couple panels they would start to leave a fuzz behind, so I just threw that one away and picked up a fresh one.  When removing the excess oils, ANGLES, ANGLES, ANGLES!  Although I had great lighting at my disposal, I would look at the panel from 3 different directions and usually I would find at least 1 spot I missed somehow.  Once I was completely finished, I then let it sit about 12 to 16 hours in the garage before moving on to the final steps. 
 
Ceramic Boost, Undercarriage Spray and Tire Dressing:
Ceramic Boost Double soft Microfiber towels Single Soft Microfiber Towels Microfiber Utility Towel Undercarriage Spray Tire Shine Black Hex Grip Applicator Block Applicator Cardboard cut to fit around wheels Venom Gloves This was the final steps in the whole process for me.  I addressed the undercarriage and Tires first so that I could clean up any overspray or dripping before boosting the wheels.  I took old Adams boxes (I saved them for this purpose) and deconstructed them to fit all the way around each tire.  I then worked each tire and wheel well like I would on the cleaning process one at a time, outside in.  I sprayed the undercarriage spray in the wheel well, then I used a piece of cardboard flexed into an arc (pic below) and sprayed the tire shine into the tread block all the way around the tire.  I used the hex grip applicator to level out the shine all around the tire.  My tires have the small grooves all the way around the tire and the hex grip applicator does good at helping to get the TS in all of those grooves.  Instead of wiping in a circle I would wipe from the rim outward to the tread block, then last wipe would be circular around the tire.  I let all of this set while I moved on to the ceramic boosting.  I changed my gloves and started from the top again and applied the Ceramic Boost sprayed directly on the panel and wiped down with a Double Soft Towel.  This is actually the only time that I use the premium towel during the Ceramic stages.  All other applicators/removal tools were the suede towels or microfiber applicators that got tossed away after use.  I'm not sure how to tell if the Boost I have is the 2.0 or not but it sure did seem to wipe up well.  I tried to find any indication on the bottle and I couldn't, but it is in the new Grey label style bottle so I'm assuming it is the 2.0.  I boosted the entire vehicle top to bottom.  I then addressed the wheels and tires again.  I changed my gloves and using a block applicator knocked down any streaking on the undercarriage spray, using Edgeless utility towel I cleaned up any overspray or dripping on the wheel itself.  I changed my gloves again and applied Ceramic boost to the rims. 


 
At this point I stepped back and really admired how far this truck had come from what it was.  I really thought it looked good before, but now it looks outstanding!  I would encourage anyone even thinking about doing this to try it.  Don't be stingy though and don't cut corners and listen to the advice of the professionals that are on this forum and those who have done it over and over.  They certainly helped me and that advice modified what I ended up doing by about 10 or 12 times!  I wouldn't omit anything that I did at this point, only add steps.  I hope this was enjoyable to read and I hope this helps someone else and I can give back to this community the way it has given to me!  Thanks for reading!

 
 

Nice work! You didn’t mention the baggie test after claying. Did anyone explain that test to you? It’s the best way to make sure you got all the contamination out. 
Now you’ll have to do an update thread down the road 😉

@stalebreadjr Great Job, Matt. These pictures look even better outside! I think it's a must to have it outside! Whenever I detail a vehicle that's not mine, I always tell the person to take it out. Don't let this be in the garage the rest of it's life. I learned to detail so that I could use my vehicle as intended. I detailed my father in laws car and for about 2 months repeatedly asked him if he had taken in out in the rain. He said of course not it looks too good to be out in the rain, and I would say I wanted him to take it into the rain because it's been "waterproofed." It's been about 4 months... I still think that car hasn't seen the rain.
 
By the way, I agree with how you went about your clay step. Detail Spray is just the easiest way to go, and I'm not concerned about it interrupting the coating process as long surface prep is involved.
 
Also, you have the most up to date Ceramic Boost

Matt, by the way, that one shot of the truck while in the garage looking at it from the back to the front with the reflection is a REALLY GREAT shot. The reflection looks so cool. Again, great job.

Alright, let me set the stage for this one.  First off, I am by no means a professional detailer.  Prior to the last 5 months or so, I did not know anything about Adams products nor did I have any "arsenal" of products or materials.  I got started with Adams off of a post that a friend of mine liked on Instagram.  The videos intrigued me.  So I started lurking on the forums and watching videos and dipped my toe in with a mystery bucket.  That was all it took.  Now here I am, showing you what this stuff can do, and if I can do it, anyone can do it.  I don't have any polishers or any special machines, I just took a great deal of time and enjoyed working this project with my truck.  So here we go.  Oh and here is a before picture of my truck just before I started to work on it.

 
I have already posted another thread on my Interior detail and engine bay cleaning.  I started by completing those first. 
For the exterior cleaning I started with the Wheels, Tires, Wheel wells and Exhaust Tips.  Products and Materials Used:
Wheel Cleaner Tire and Rubber Cleaner ECO APC Car Shampoo Tire Brush Fender Brush Wheel Woolie Wheel Brush Lug Nut Brush Bucket of Clean Water w/ Grit Guard Tote of microfiber towels (I used the edgeless utility for any wipedown)
I started by getting my bucket half full of clean water and I added a bit of CS to it.  Here is where I kept all my brushes to be used.  I worked each wheel entirely before moving on to the next wheel.  On each wheel I would start by completely hosing down the wheel and well, removing as much dirt and grime as I could with water alone.  Then I started with the Wheel well, spraying it down with the ECO APC and using my Fender Brush that was soaking in the sudsy CS water, I would shake the excess in the bucket, then spray the brush with ECO APC and work the whole Wheel Well.  I then moved on to the tire and sprayed it down with the TRC and repeated the same steps with the Tire brush by shaking off the excess CS water and spraying the brush with a plug or 2 of TRC and working that tire.  Then lastly I used what I considered to be the most agressive product in the Wheel Cleaner and sprayed the barrels of the wheel and face really well, using the wheel woolie I scrubbed the barrels, man this is a tool that I would definitely suggest having, NO SCRAPED UP KNUCKLES!  Then I used the Wheel brush to clean off the remaining face of the wheel and finally I used the lug nut brush to clean all the spots that were hard to reach.  Now, the lug nut brush also in my opinion is crucial here.  There were spots inside the rim that did not scrub clean with the woolie that I was able to get with the lug nut brush and the same on the face of the wheel.  Highly recommended to have this guy handy.  I then sprayed down each wheel completely with water and inspected.  If there was a spot to be revisited, I did that at this time.  Now, as I used each of these tools I would give them a quick spray with the hose then scrub them on the grit guard in my bucket and let them sit there until the next wheel.  After all 4 wheels were complete I cleaned the exhaust tips with a spray or 2 of ECO APC and the wheel woolie and lug nut brush.
 
After completing all the wheels and exhaust tips, I knew I was about to wash the whole exterior, so I took this time to use the TRC and Utility Microfiber towels and clean all the oxidation I could from the rubber trim and other trim around my truck.  I would just spray into a spot on the towel and work each trim piece until that part of the towel was soiled, then rotate the spot on the towel and repeat.
 
Next I moved on to the first wash in my decontamination process.  First I prepped the area by cleaning out my wheel bucket, spraying out those tools and hanging them to dry and setting all those chemicals aside.  Next I gathered all the materials and tools for the First Strip Wash:
2 clean buckets w/ 2 clean grit guards 2 wash pads 1 microfiber Wash Mitt ( in case the pad was not aggressive enough) Adams Step Ladder Bug Remover Strip Wash Foam Cannon Pressure Washer Iron Remover

I started here by prepping all my chemicals and tools.  I mixed about 4oz of Strip wash in my Foam Cannon and set it aside.  I then followed the prep for the 2 bucket wash by filling a bucket with clean water and Grit Guard and my wash bucket with Clean water, a bit of Strip Wash and my wash pads with a squirt of Strip wash on each of them and foamed them up.  Now that I'm ready I used my pressure washer on a very mild pressure and went over the whole vehicle blasting off any bugs or obvious stuck on grime and junk.  Next I followed the method Adam used in his presentation video for the bug remover and sprayed down the grill, mirrors and windshield with the bug remover and let it sit while I hooked up my foam cannon to the pressure washer. Here is the link to the product page which is the only place I have found this video.
https://adamspolishes.com/collections/car-washing-products-best-car-shampoo/products/adams-bug-remover
I started from the back and foamed the whole truck leaving the areas where I had bug remover soaking for the very last bit of foaming, this way they got the most exposure to the bug remover and now have a mix of bug remover and strip wash on them!  TAKE THAT BUGS!!!    The hardest part of washing this truck for me is reaching every spot adequately, so I used my long Adams Step ladder and started from the roof and again followed around the vehicle leaving the Grill windshield and mirrors for last.  I'm gonna tell ya, it was pretty easy removing those bugs, and there were a lot on there.  I wish I had taken a better close up shot before and after.  I'm sold on this one.  Bug Remover will stay in my Arsenal!  Plus it smells good!  Now that the washing is done I Rinse from here.  Now, I did my rinse with my regular hose that has a multi-sprayer on it so I could control and switch from a shower spray to a stream spray if necessary.  I just personally find that easier to accomplish what I'm trying to do.  After a complete rinse, I did not dry, I worked around the vehicle with the Iron Remover panel or 2 at a time, spraying the panels, letting it sit for a couple minutes and then hosing off.  I worked in smaller sections because the wind was mildly blowing and I didn't want the stuff to dry on the truck as there are multiple warnings about letting it dry.  Now, my truck is black, so it was really hard for me to see anything happening until I actually washed it off and I could see a purple haze to the water coming off.  I pretty much used the entire bottle of this stuff on my truck, there was a little left but not enough to complete another vehicle, probably a 4th of the bottle left or less.
 
Next up was the Clay Decontamination.  For this step I had personally gone back and forth on how I wanted to complete this step.  Originally, I was going to mix up a bottle of CS diluted down and use that as my clay lube.  My thoughts were to have a lubricant that would not leave behind any protective properties since I was actively stripping that off.  Then, I had some discussion with @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin off forum about potentially just foaming each section of the vehicle that i was going to clay ensuring that I would have the lubricity there.  All in all, with the mild wind coupled with the hassle of grabbing my pressure washer each time I wanted to clay a new section, I abandoned that thought all together and just used Detail Spray.  I was able to control that and work at a steady pace and also work indoors in my garage.  Shout out to @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin for all the great detailing conversation on and off the forum!  Much appreciated!
Here are the tools I used for the Clay Decontamination:
Visco Clay Kit 1 Refill Visco Clay in case I dropped the one I was using 2 Bottles of Detail Spray Step Ladder This part of the process was brand new to me altogether.  I have never clayed a vehicle before and let me tell you, it was easier than I anticipated and very satisfying!  It is very hard to describe the feel of the process but you can "feel" what you need to clay a little more and what is done.  I really like the visco clay bar kit.  The Geo-Impression tool not only helps to mold the clay so it will pick up the contamination better, but it acts as a handle kind of and it feels good in your hands and it is very easy to hold on to.  I worked 1 panel at a time here in the garage spraying the panel with DS and then 1 shot of DS on my clay each time I started a new section or anytime it seemed like it wasn't slick and again, you can feel that.  I honestly thought I wouldn't see much on my truck because its in pretty good shape and stays in the garage when I'm not driving it, but man, there was a good bit on there and I used up the entire clay bar on the whole vehicle.  The way I approached this was kind of how I did washing the vehicle.  I did the panels that I thought were the least soiled first and left my grill and wheels for last, that way if I was picking up big bits of bug remnants or anything I was not doing that first, but rather towards the end of the clay procedure.  I made it a point also to feel the panel with my hand before and after claying.

 
Next I did a Clean Up Wash:
2 clean buckets w/ 2 clean grit guards 2 wash pads Adams Step Ladder Strip Wash Foam Cannon Pressure Washer Great White Drying Towel Accessory Drying Towel This was pretty straight forward.  Before Starting I made sure my 2 previous wash buckets were emptied and cleaned out and sprayed out with the hose as well as the wash pads thoroughly cleaned up.  I still had about a half a bottle of the strip wash from the first wash so that is what I used to foam the vehicle.  I foamed the truck and washed it top down and then rinsed with the hose thoroughly.  Since I was not going any further at the time I chose to go ahead and dry off the vehicle.  So once it was rinsed I pulled in the garage and used my GW Drying Towel to get all the big panels and then the Accessory Drying Towel for spot checking and cleaning up drips.  I did not use any form of compressed air.  In the future I will probably invest in the sidekick and this step would have probably been way easier.

Next step I took was to Polish the Truck:
Venom Gloves Revive Hand Polish Blue Hex Grip Applicator Single Soft Microfiber Towels Step Ladder Respirator
I'll be honest.  I was not going to do this step when I first started buying the tools for Ceramic Coating.  I don't own a polisher, really didn't want to make that investment right now, and have zero experience with polishing.  However, I am so glad that I took this step.  I used the least possible aggressive method by hand polishing and using Revive, but I'm telling you, it made a great deal of difference in the shine of my Clear/Paint.  I started this step with much skepticism, and ended thinking about buying a polisher and learning how to do it better.  This step took me the better half of a day to complete.  I really took my time and really focused on what I was doing and tried not to make it a chore.  I put a couple JRE podcasts on to listen to and took many breaks throughout the process.  I made sure I had comfortable seating (That Adams Rolling Detail Chair is in my future BTW  ), I took the globes off the lights in my garage to ensure I had the maximum amount of lighting and I had several LED Flashlights at my disposal to check the paint and polishing.  It took me a good bit to get the amount of polish right, there were a couple times I put too much, and in that case I just polished a bigger section and primed the pad with DS for the next bit until the polish got thin before I put more on.  After finishing this step I went ahead and cleaned up this pad with some APC and set it aside to dry.  Just polishing made a noticeable difference.
 
And here we are folks....I did all that for this moment!  It was pretty dadgum exciting!  Now is the time for the Surface Prep and Ceramic Spray Coating:
Venom Gloves Respirator Adams Surface Prep Spray Single Soft Microfiber Towels Step Ladder Microfiber Applicators Suede Removal Towels
A couple things I want to mention.  The Gloves are a must for both polishing and coating.  There is no way not to get any of this on your hands.  I had originally purchased a pair of gloves off the Adams site, but I found these Venom Gloves at Lowe's when I got my cool flow disposable respirators and I really like them.  They are very comfortable and my hands didn't sweat in them like they normally do in gloves.  I went through about 12 pairs in this whole process because I would throw them out anytime I stopped and took a break or moved to a different process.  I also highly recommend the Adams Surface Prep Spray.  I know you can mix your own but this spray was easy to use and cleaned the area well.  I could see in the Single Soft Towels where it was blue when I prepped some panels because I had not completely removed all the polish.  To my naked eye it looked as if I had, but the prep spray saw it differently  .  
 
I only took a portion of a panel at a time to complete this process.  I wanted to make sure that I was cleaning, coating and removing all before moving on.  I would prep the entire panel first and then I would coat a section around 2 x 2, let it flash, then use the suede removal towels to buff off the oils.  These suede towels are another thing that I was NOT going to use originally but I'm so glad I did.  They really made removal and buffing of the CSC easy.  I coated the entire vehicle including the wheels.  I took the advice of @falcaineer and I did not level any of the CSC that I put on the plastic trim.  Speaking of the trim, I used the small suede applicators that come in the CSC kit to apply it to my trim and wheels, all of the other areas I used the microfiber applicators.  I used 5 of the microfiber applicators in total in the process, I found that after using them for a couple panels they would start to leave a fuzz behind, so I just threw that one away and picked up a fresh one.  When removing the excess oils, ANGLES, ANGLES, ANGLES!  Although I had great lighting at my disposal, I would look at the panel from 3 different directions and usually I would find at least 1 spot I missed somehow.  Once I was completely finished, I then let it sit about 12 to 16 hours in the garage before moving on to the final steps. 
 
Ceramic Boost, Undercarriage Spray and Tire Dressing:
Ceramic Boost Double soft Microfiber towels Single Soft Microfiber Towels Microfiber Utility Towel Undercarriage Spray Tire Shine Black Hex Grip Applicator Block Applicator Cardboard cut to fit around wheels Venom Gloves This was the final steps in the whole process for me.  I addressed the undercarriage and Tires first so that I could clean up any overspray or dripping before boosting the wheels.  I took old Adams boxes (I saved them for this purpose) and deconstructed them to fit all the way around each tire.  I then worked each tire and wheel well like I would on the cleaning process one at a time, outside in.  I sprayed the undercarriage spray in the wheel well, then I used a piece of cardboard flexed into an arc (pic below) and sprayed the tire shine into the tread block all the way around the tire.  I used the hex grip applicator to level out the shine all around the tire.  My tires have the small grooves all the way around the tire and the hex grip applicator does good at helping to get the TS in all of those grooves.  Instead of wiping in a circle I would wipe from the rim outward to the tread block, then last wipe would be circular around the tire.  I let all of this set while I moved on to the ceramic boosting.  I changed my gloves and started from the top again and applied the Ceramic Boost sprayed directly on the panel and wiped down with a Double Soft Towel.  This is actually the only time that I use the premium towel during the Ceramic stages.  All other applicators/removal tools were the suede towels or microfiber applicators that got tossed away after use.  I'm not sure how to tell if the Boost I have is the 2.0 or not but it sure did seem to wipe up well.  I tried to find any indication on the bottle and I couldn't, but it is in the new Grey label style bottle so I'm assuming it is the 2.0.  I boosted the entire vehicle top to bottom.  I then addressed the wheels and tires again.  I changed my gloves and using a block applicator knocked down any streaking on the undercarriage spray, using Edgeless utility towel I cleaned up any overspray or dripping on the wheel itself.  I changed my gloves again and applied Ceramic boost to the rims. 


 
At this point I stepped back and really admired how far this truck had come from what it was.  I really thought it looked good before, but now it looks outstanding!  I would encourage anyone even thinking about doing this to try it.  Don't be stingy though and don't cut corners and listen to the advice of the professionals that are on this forum and those who have done it over and over.  They certainly helped me and that advice modified what I ended up doing by about 10 or 12 times!  I wouldn't omit anything that I did at this point, only add steps.  I hope this was enjoyable to read and I hope this helps someone else and I can give back to this community the way it has given to me!  Thanks for reading!

 
 

Alright, let me set the stage for this one.  First off, I am by no means a professional detailer.  Prior to the last 5 months or so, I did not know anything about Adams products nor did I have any "arsenal" of products or materials.  I got started with Adams off of a post that a friend of mine liked on Instagram.  The videos intrigued me.  So I started lurking on the forums and watching videos and dipped my toe in with a mystery bucket.  That was all it took.  Now here I am, showing you what this stuff can do, and if I can do it, anyone can do it.  I don't have any polishers or any special machines, I just took a great deal of time and enjoyed working this project with my truck.  So here we go.  Oh and here is a before picture of my truck just before I started to work on it.

 
I have already posted another thread on my Interior detail and engine bay cleaning.  I started by completing those first. 
For the exterior cleaning I started with the Wheels, Tires, Wheel wells and Exhaust Tips.  Products and Materials Used:
Wheel Cleaner Tire and Rubber Cleaner ECO APC Car Shampoo Tire Brush Fender Brush Wheel Woolie Wheel Brush Lug Nut Brush Bucket of Clean Water w/ Grit Guard Tote of microfiber towels (I used the edgeless utility for any wipedown)
I started by getting my bucket half full of clean water and I added a bit of CS to it.  Here is where I kept all my brushes to be used.  I worked each wheel entirely before moving on to the next wheel.  On each wheel I would start by completely hosing down the wheel and well, removing as much dirt and grime as I could with water alone.  Then I started with the Wheel well, spraying it down with the ECO APC and using my Fender Brush that was soaking in the sudsy CS water, I would shake the excess in the bucket, then spray the brush with ECO APC and work the whole Wheel Well.  I then moved on to the tire and sprayed it down with the TRC and repeated the same steps with the Tire brush by shaking off the excess CS water and spraying the brush with a plug or 2 of TRC and working that tire.  Then lastly I used what I considered to be the most agressive product in the Wheel Cleaner and sprayed the barrels of the wheel and face really well, using the wheel woolie I scrubbed the barrels, man this is a tool that I would definitely suggest having, NO SCRAPED UP KNUCKLES!  Then I used the Wheel brush to clean off the remaining face of the wheel and finally I used the lug nut brush to clean all the spots that were hard to reach.  Now, the lug nut brush also in my opinion is crucial here.  There were spots inside the rim that did not scrub clean with the woolie that I was able to get with the lug nut brush and the same on the face of the wheel.  Highly recommended to have this guy handy.  I then sprayed down each wheel completely with water and inspected.  If there was a spot to be revisited, I did that at this time.  Now, as I used each of these tools I would give them a quick spray with the hose then scrub them on the grit guard in my bucket and let them sit there until the next wheel.  After all 4 wheels were complete I cleaned the exhaust tips with a spray or 2 of ECO APC and the wheel woolie and lug nut brush.
 
After completing all the wheels and exhaust tips, I knew I was about to wash the whole exterior, so I took this time to use the TRC and Utility Microfiber towels and clean all the oxidation I could from the rubber trim and other trim around my truck.  I would just spray into a spot on the towel and work each trim piece until that part of the towel was soiled, then rotate the spot on the towel and repeat.
 
Next I moved on to the first wash in my decontamination process.  First I prepped the area by cleaning out my wheel bucket, spraying out those tools and hanging them to dry and setting all those chemicals aside.  Next I gathered all the materials and tools for the First Strip Wash:
2 clean buckets w/ 2 clean grit guards 2 wash pads 1 microfiber Wash Mitt ( in case the pad was not aggressive enough) Adams Step Ladder Bug Remover Strip Wash Foam Cannon Pressure Washer Iron Remover

I started here by prepping all my chemicals and tools.  I mixed about 4oz of Strip wash in my Foam Cannon and set it aside.  I then followed the prep for the 2 bucket wash by filling a bucket with clean water and Grit Guard and my wash bucket with Clean water, a bit of Strip Wash and my wash pads with a squirt of Strip wash on each of them and foamed them up.  Now that I'm ready I used my pressure washer on a very mild pressure and went over the whole vehicle blasting off any bugs or obvious stuck on grime and junk.  Next I followed the method Adam used in his presentation video for the bug remover and sprayed down the grill, mirrors and windshield with the bug remover and let it sit while I hooked up my foam cannon to the pressure washer. Here is the link to the product page which is the only place I have found this video.
https://adamspolishes.com/collections/car-washing-products-best-car-shampoo/products/adams-bug-remover
I started from the back and foamed the whole truck leaving the areas where I had bug remover soaking for the very last bit of foaming, this way they got the most exposure to the bug remover and now have a mix of bug remover and strip wash on them!  TAKE THAT BUGS!!!    The hardest part of washing this truck for me is reaching every spot adequately, so I used my long Adams Step ladder and started from the roof and again followed around the vehicle leaving the Grill windshield and mirrors for last.  I'm gonna tell ya, it was pretty easy removing those bugs, and there were a lot on there.  I wish I had taken a better close up shot before and after.  I'm sold on this one.  Bug Remover will stay in my Arsenal!  Plus it smells good!  Now that the washing is done I Rinse from here.  Now, I did my rinse with my regular hose that has a multi-sprayer on it so I could control and switch from a shower spray to a stream spray if necessary.  I just personally find that easier to accomplish what I'm trying to do.  After a complete rinse, I did not dry, I worked around the vehicle with the Iron Remover panel or 2 at a time, spraying the panels, letting it sit for a couple minutes and then hosing off.  I worked in smaller sections because the wind was mildly blowing and I didn't want the stuff to dry on the truck as there are multiple warnings about letting it dry.  Now, my truck is black, so it was really hard for me to see anything happening until I actually washed it off and I could see a purple haze to the water coming off.  I pretty much used the entire bottle of this stuff on my truck, there was a little left but not enough to complete another vehicle, probably a 4th of the bottle left or less.
 
Next up was the Clay Decontamination.  For this step I had personally gone back and forth on how I wanted to complete this step.  Originally, I was going to mix up a bottle of CS diluted down and use that as my clay lube.  My thoughts were to have a lubricant that would not leave behind any protective properties since I was actively stripping that off.  Then, I had some discussion with @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin off forum about potentially just foaming each section of the vehicle that i was going to clay ensuring that I would have the lubricity there.  All in all, with the mild wind coupled with the hassle of grabbing my pressure washer each time I wanted to clay a new section, I abandoned that thought all together and just used Detail Spray.  I was able to control that and work at a steady pace and also work indoors in my garage.  Shout out to @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin for all the great detailing conversation on and off the forum!  Much appreciated!
Here are the tools I used for the Clay Decontamination:
Visco Clay Kit 1 Refill Visco Clay in case I dropped the one I was using 2 Bottles of Detail Spray Step Ladder This part of the process was brand new to me altogether.  I have never clayed a vehicle before and let me tell you, it was easier than I anticipated and very satisfying!  It is very hard to describe the feel of the process but you can "feel" what you need to clay a little more and what is done.  I really like the visco clay bar kit.  The Geo-Impression tool not only helps to mold the clay so it will pick up the contamination better, but it acts as a handle kind of and it feels good in your hands and it is very easy to hold on to.  I worked 1 panel at a time here in the garage spraying the panel with DS and then 1 shot of DS on my clay each time I started a new section or anytime it seemed like it wasn't slick and again, you can feel that.  I honestly thought I wouldn't see much on my truck because its in pretty good shape and stays in the garage when I'm not driving it, but man, there was a good bit on there and I used up the entire clay bar on the whole vehicle.  The way I approached this was kind of how I did washing the vehicle.  I did the panels that I thought were the least soiled first and left my grill and wheels for last, that way if I was picking up big bits of bug remnants or anything I was not doing that first, but rather towards the end of the clay procedure.  I made it a point also to feel the panel with my hand before and after claying.

 
Next I did a Clean Up Wash:
2 clean buckets w/ 2 clean grit guards 2 wash pads Adams Step Ladder Strip Wash Foam Cannon Pressure Washer Great White Drying Towel Accessory Drying Towel This was pretty straight forward.  Before Starting I made sure my 2 previous wash buckets were emptied and cleaned out and sprayed out with the hose as well as the wash pads thoroughly cleaned up.  I still had about a half a bottle of the strip wash from the first wash so that is what I used to foam the vehicle.  I foamed the truck and washed it top down and then rinsed with the hose thoroughly.  Since I was not going any further at the time I chose to go ahead and dry off the vehicle.  So once it was rinsed I pulled in the garage and used my GW Drying Towel to get all the big panels and then the Accessory Drying Towel for spot checking and cleaning up drips.  I did not use any form of compressed air.  In the future I will probably invest in the sidekick and this step would have probably been way easier.

Next step I took was to Polish the Truck:
Venom Gloves Revive Hand Polish Blue Hex Grip Applicator Single Soft Microfiber Towels Step Ladder Respirator
I'll be honest.  I was not going to do this step when I first started buying the tools for Ceramic Coating.  I don't own a polisher, really didn't want to make that investment right now, and have zero experience with polishing.  However, I am so glad that I took this step.  I used the least possible aggressive method by hand polishing and using Revive, but I'm telling you, it made a great deal of difference in the shine of my Clear/Paint.  I started this step with much skepticism, and ended thinking about buying a polisher and learning how to do it better.  This step took me the better half of a day to complete.  I really took my time and really focused on what I was doing and tried not to make it a chore.  I put a couple JRE podcasts on to listen to and took many breaks throughout the process.  I made sure I had comfortable seating (That Adams Rolling Detail Chair is in my future BTW  ), I took the globes off the lights in my garage to ensure I had the maximum amount of lighting and I had several LED Flashlights at my disposal to check the paint and polishing.  It took me a good bit to get the amount of polish right, there were a couple times I put too much, and in that case I just polished a bigger section and primed the pad with DS for the next bit until the polish got thin before I put more on.  After finishing this step I went ahead and cleaned up this pad with some APC and set it aside to dry.  Just polishing made a noticeable difference.
 
And here we are folks....I did all that for this moment!  It was pretty dadgum exciting!  Now is the time for the Surface Prep and Ceramic Spray Coating:
Venom Gloves Respirator Adams Surface Prep Spray Single Soft Microfiber Towels Step Ladder Microfiber Applicators Suede Removal Towels
A couple things I want to mention.  The Gloves are a must for both polishing and coating.  There is no way not to get any of this on your hands.  I had originally purchased a pair of gloves off the Adams site, but I found these Venom Gloves at Lowe's when I got my cool flow disposable respirators and I really like them.  They are very comfortable and my hands didn't sweat in them like they normally do in gloves.  I went through about 12 pairs in this whole process because I would throw them out anytime I stopped and took a break or moved to a different process.  I also highly recommend the Adams Surface Prep Spray.  I know you can mix your own but this spray was easy to use and cleaned the area well.  I could see in the Single Soft Towels where it was blue when I prepped some panels because I had not completely removed all the polish.  To my naked eye it looked as if I had, but the prep spray saw it differently  .  
 
I only took a portion of a panel at a time to complete this process.  I wanted to make sure that I was cleaning, coating and removing all before moving on.  I would prep the entire panel first and then I would coat a section around 2 x 2, let it flash, then use the suede removal towels to buff off the oils.  These suede towels are another thing that I was NOT going to use originally but I'm so glad I did.  They really made removal and buffing of the CSC easy.  I coated the entire vehicle including the wheels.  I took the advice of @falcaineer and I did not level any of the CSC that I put on the plastic trim.  Speaking of the trim, I used the small suede applicators that come in the CSC kit to apply it to my trim and wheels, all of the other areas I used the microfiber applicators.  I used 5 of the microfiber applicators in total in the process, I found that after using them for a couple panels they would start to leave a fuzz behind, so I just threw that one away and picked up a fresh one.  When removing the excess oils, ANGLES, ANGLES, ANGLES!  Although I had great lighting at my disposal, I would look at the panel from 3 different directions and usually I would find at least 1 spot I missed somehow.  Once I was completely finished, I then let it sit about 12 to 16 hours in the garage before moving on to the final steps. 
 
Ceramic Boost, Undercarriage Spray and Tire Dressing:
Ceramic Boost Double soft Microfiber towels Single Soft Microfiber Towels Microfiber Utility Towel Undercarriage Spray Tire Shine Black Hex Grip Applicator Block Applicator Cardboard cut to fit around wheels Venom Gloves This was the final steps in the whole process for me.  I addressed the undercarriage and Tires first so that I could clean up any overspray or dripping before boosting the wheels.  I took old Adams boxes (I saved them for this purpose) and deconstructed them to fit all the way around each tire.  I then worked each tire and wheel well like I would on the cleaning process one at a time, outside in.  I sprayed the undercarriage spray in the wheel well, then I used a piece of cardboard flexed into an arc (pic below) and sprayed the tire shine into the tread block all the way around the tire.  I used the hex grip applicator to level out the shine all around the tire.  My tires have the small grooves all the way around the tire and the hex grip applicator does good at helping to get the TS in all of those grooves.  Instead of wiping in a circle I would wipe from the rim outward to the tread block, then last wipe would be circular around the tire.  I let all of this set while I moved on to the ceramic boosting.  I changed my gloves and started from the top again and applied the Ceramic Boost sprayed directly on the panel and wiped down with a Double Soft Towel.  This is actually the only time that I use the premium towel during the Ceramic stages.  All other applicators/removal tools were the suede towels or microfiber applicators that got tossed away after use.  I'm not sure how to tell if the Boost I have is the 2.0 or not but it sure did seem to wipe up well.  I tried to find any indication on the bottle and I couldn't, but it is in the new Grey label style bottle so I'm assuming it is the 2.0.  I boosted the entire vehicle top to bottom.  I then addressed the wheels and tires again.  I changed my gloves and using a block applicator knocked down any streaking on the undercarriage spray, using Edgeless utility towel I cleaned up any overspray or dripping on the wheel itself.  I changed my gloves again and applied Ceramic boost to the rims. 


 
At this point I stepped back and really admired how far this truck had come from what it was.  I really thought it looked good before, but now it looks outstanding!  I would encourage anyone even thinking about doing this to try it.  Don't be stingy though and don't cut corners and listen to the advice of the professionals that are on this forum and those who have done it over and over.  They certainly helped me and that advice modified what I ended up doing by about 10 or 12 times!  I wouldn't omit anything that I did at this point, only add steps.  I hope this was enjoyable to read and I hope this helps someone else and I can give back to this community the way it has given to me!  Thanks for reading!

 
 

Ha! I know! I wish i could just keep it in there, but alas it must be presented to the world.  😜Thanks for the compliment though.  I think it turned out nice and I am a Dodge/FCA guy so I agree that it being a RAM puts it over the top! 🐏

Alright, let me set the stage for this one.  First off, I am by no means a professional detailer.  Prior to the last 5 months or so, I did not know anything about Adams products nor did I have any "arsenal" of products or materials.  I got started with Adams off of a post that a friend of mine liked on Instagram.  The videos intrigued me.  So I started lurking on the forums and watching videos and dipped my toe in with a mystery bucket.  That was all it took.  Now here I am, showing you what this stuff can do, and if I can do it, anyone can do it.  I don't have any polishers or any special machines, I just took a great deal of time and enjoyed working this project with my truck.  So here we go.  Oh and here is a before picture of my truck just before I started to work on it.

 
I have already posted another thread on my Interior detail and engine bay cleaning.  I started by completing those first. 
For the exterior cleaning I started with the Wheels, Tires, Wheel wells and Exhaust Tips.  Products and Materials Used:
Wheel Cleaner Tire and Rubber Cleaner ECO APC Car Shampoo Tire Brush Fender Brush Wheel Woolie Wheel Brush Lug Nut Brush Bucket of Clean Water w/ Grit Guard Tote of microfiber towels (I used the edgeless utility for any wipedown)
I started by getting my bucket half full of clean water and I added a bit of CS to it.  Here is where I kept all my brushes to be used.  I worked each wheel entirely before moving on to the next wheel.  On each wheel I would start by completely hosing down the wheel and well, removing as much dirt and grime as I could with water alone.  Then I started with the Wheel well, spraying it down with the ECO APC and using my Fender Brush that was soaking in the sudsy CS water, I would shake the excess in the bucket, then spray the brush with ECO APC and work the whole Wheel Well.  I then moved on to the tire and sprayed it down with the TRC and repeated the same steps with the Tire brush by shaking off the excess CS water and spraying the brush with a plug or 2 of TRC and working that tire.  Then lastly I used what I considered to be the most agressive product in the Wheel Cleaner and sprayed the barrels of the wheel and face really well, using the wheel woolie I scrubbed the barrels, man this is a tool that I would definitely suggest having, NO SCRAPED UP KNUCKLES!  Then I used the Wheel brush to clean off the remaining face of the wheel and finally I used the lug nut brush to clean all the spots that were hard to reach.  Now, the lug nut brush also in my opinion is crucial here.  There were spots inside the rim that did not scrub clean with the woolie that I was able to get with the lug nut brush and the same on the face of the wheel.  Highly recommended to have this guy handy.  I then sprayed down each wheel completely with water and inspected.  If there was a spot to be revisited, I did that at this time.  Now, as I used each of these tools I would give them a quick spray with the hose then scrub them on the grit guard in my bucket and let them sit there until the next wheel.  After all 4 wheels were complete I cleaned the exhaust tips with a spray or 2 of ECO APC and the wheel woolie and lug nut brush.
 
After completing all the wheels and exhaust tips, I knew I was about to wash the whole exterior, so I took this time to use the TRC and Utility Microfiber towels and clean all the oxidation I could from the rubber trim and other trim around my truck.  I would just spray into a spot on the towel and work each trim piece until that part of the towel was soiled, then rotate the spot on the towel and repeat.
 
Next I moved on to the first wash in my decontamination process.  First I prepped the area by cleaning out my wheel bucket, spraying out those tools and hanging them to dry and setting all those chemicals aside.  Next I gathered all the materials and tools for the First Strip Wash:
2 clean buckets w/ 2 clean grit guards 2 wash pads 1 microfiber Wash Mitt ( in case the pad was not aggressive enough) Adams Step Ladder Bug Remover Strip Wash Foam Cannon Pressure Washer Iron Remover

I started here by prepping all my chemicals and tools.  I mixed about 4oz of Strip wash in my Foam Cannon and set it aside.  I then followed the prep for the 2 bucket wash by filling a bucket with clean water and Grit Guard and my wash bucket with Clean water, a bit of Strip Wash and my wash pads with a squirt of Strip wash on each of them and foamed them up.  Now that I'm ready I used my pressure washer on a very mild pressure and went over the whole vehicle blasting off any bugs or obvious stuck on grime and junk.  Next I followed the method Adam used in his presentation video for the bug remover and sprayed down the grill, mirrors and windshield with the bug remover and let it sit while I hooked up my foam cannon to the pressure washer. Here is the link to the product page which is the only place I have found this video.
https://adamspolishes.com/collections/car-washing-products-best-car-shampoo/products/adams-bug-remover
I started from the back and foamed the whole truck leaving the areas where I had bug remover soaking for the very last bit of foaming, this way they got the most exposure to the bug remover and now have a mix of bug remover and strip wash on them!  TAKE THAT BUGS!!!    The hardest part of washing this truck for me is reaching every spot adequately, so I used my long Adams Step ladder and started from the roof and again followed around the vehicle leaving the Grill windshield and mirrors for last.  I'm gonna tell ya, it was pretty easy removing those bugs, and there were a lot on there.  I wish I had taken a better close up shot before and after.  I'm sold on this one.  Bug Remover will stay in my Arsenal!  Plus it smells good!  Now that the washing is done I Rinse from here.  Now, I did my rinse with my regular hose that has a multi-sprayer on it so I could control and switch from a shower spray to a stream spray if necessary.  I just personally find that easier to accomplish what I'm trying to do.  After a complete rinse, I did not dry, I worked around the vehicle with the Iron Remover panel or 2 at a time, spraying the panels, letting it sit for a couple minutes and then hosing off.  I worked in smaller sections because the wind was mildly blowing and I didn't want the stuff to dry on the truck as there are multiple warnings about letting it dry.  Now, my truck is black, so it was really hard for me to see anything happening until I actually washed it off and I could see a purple haze to the water coming off.  I pretty much used the entire bottle of this stuff on my truck, there was a little left but not enough to complete another vehicle, probably a 4th of the bottle left or less.
 
Next up was the Clay Decontamination.  For this step I had personally gone back and forth on how I wanted to complete this step.  Originally, I was going to mix up a bottle of CS diluted down and use that as my clay lube.  My thoughts were to have a lubricant that would not leave behind any protective properties since I was actively stripping that off.  Then, I had some discussion with @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin off forum about potentially just foaming each section of the vehicle that i was going to clay ensuring that I would have the lubricity there.  All in all, with the mild wind coupled with the hassle of grabbing my pressure washer each time I wanted to clay a new section, I abandoned that thought all together and just used Detail Spray.  I was able to control that and work at a steady pace and also work indoors in my garage.  Shout out to @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin for all the great detailing conversation on and off the forum!  Much appreciated!
Here are the tools I used for the Clay Decontamination:
Visco Clay Kit 1 Refill Visco Clay in case I dropped the one I was using 2 Bottles of Detail Spray Step Ladder This part of the process was brand new to me altogether.  I have never clayed a vehicle before and let me tell you, it was easier than I anticipated and very satisfying!  It is very hard to describe the feel of the process but you can "feel" what you need to clay a little more and what is done.  I really like the visco clay bar kit.  The Geo-Impression tool not only helps to mold the clay so it will pick up the contamination better, but it acts as a handle kind of and it feels good in your hands and it is very easy to hold on to.  I worked 1 panel at a time here in the garage spraying the panel with DS and then 1 shot of DS on my clay each time I started a new section or anytime it seemed like it wasn't slick and again, you can feel that.  I honestly thought I wouldn't see much on my truck because its in pretty good shape and stays in the garage when I'm not driving it, but man, there was a good bit on there and I used up the entire clay bar on the whole vehicle.  The way I approached this was kind of how I did washing the vehicle.  I did the panels that I thought were the least soiled first and left my grill and wheels for last, that way if I was picking up big bits of bug remnants or anything I was not doing that first, but rather towards the end of the clay procedure.  I made it a point also to feel the panel with my hand before and after claying.

 
Next I did a Clean Up Wash:
2 clean buckets w/ 2 clean grit guards 2 wash pads Adams Step Ladder Strip Wash Foam Cannon Pressure Washer Great White Drying Towel Accessory Drying Towel This was pretty straight forward.  Before Starting I made sure my 2 previous wash buckets were emptied and cleaned out and sprayed out with the hose as well as the wash pads thoroughly cleaned up.  I still had about a half a bottle of the strip wash from the first wash so that is what I used to foam the vehicle.  I foamed the truck and washed it top down and then rinsed with the hose thoroughly.  Since I was not going any further at the time I chose to go ahead and dry off the vehicle.  So once it was rinsed I pulled in the garage and used my GW Drying Towel to get all the big panels and then the Accessory Drying Towel for spot checking and cleaning up drips.  I did not use any form of compressed air.  In the future I will probably invest in the sidekick and this step would have probably been way easier.

Next step I took was to Polish the Truck:
Venom Gloves Revive Hand Polish Blue Hex Grip Applicator Single Soft Microfiber Towels Step Ladder Respirator
I'll be honest.  I was not going to do this step when I first started buying the tools for Ceramic Coating.  I don't own a polisher, really didn't want to make that investment right now, and have zero experience with polishing.  However, I am so glad that I took this step.  I used the least possible aggressive method by hand polishing and using Revive, but I'm telling you, it made a great deal of difference in the shine of my Clear/Paint.  I started this step with much skepticism, and ended thinking about buying a polisher and learning how to do it better.  This step took me the better half of a day to complete.  I really took my time and really focused on what I was doing and tried not to make it a chore.  I put a couple JRE podcasts on to listen to and took many breaks throughout the process.  I made sure I had comfortable seating (That Adams Rolling Detail Chair is in my future BTW  ), I took the globes off the lights in my garage to ensure I had the maximum amount of lighting and I had several LED Flashlights at my disposal to check the paint and polishing.  It took me a good bit to get the amount of polish right, there were a couple times I put too much, and in that case I just polished a bigger section and primed the pad with DS for the next bit until the polish got thin before I put more on.  After finishing this step I went ahead and cleaned up this pad with some APC and set it aside to dry.  Just polishing made a noticeable difference.
 
And here we are folks....I did all that for this moment!  It was pretty dadgum exciting!  Now is the time for the Surface Prep and Ceramic Spray Coating:
Venom Gloves Respirator Adams Surface Prep Spray Single Soft Microfiber Towels Step Ladder Microfiber Applicators Suede Removal Towels
A couple things I want to mention.  The Gloves are a must for both polishing and coating.  There is no way not to get any of this on your hands.  I had originally purchased a pair of gloves off the Adams site, but I found these Venom Gloves at Lowe's when I got my cool flow disposable respirators and I really like them.  They are very comfortable and my hands didn't sweat in them like they normally do in gloves.  I went through about 12 pairs in this whole process because I would throw them out anytime I stopped and took a break or moved to a different process.  I also highly recommend the Adams Surface Prep Spray.  I know you can mix your own but this spray was easy to use and cleaned the area well.  I could see in the Single Soft Towels where it was blue when I prepped some panels because I had not completely removed all the polish.  To my naked eye it looked as if I had, but the prep spray saw it differently  .  
 
I only took a portion of a panel at a time to complete this process.  I wanted to make sure that I was cleaning, coating and removing all before moving on.  I would prep the entire panel first and then I would coat a section around 2 x 2, let it flash, then use the suede removal towels to buff off the oils.  These suede towels are another thing that I was NOT going to use originally but I'm so glad I did.  They really made removal and buffing of the CSC easy.  I coated the entire vehicle including the wheels.  I took the advice of @falcaineer and I did not level any of the CSC that I put on the plastic trim.  Speaking of the trim, I used the small suede applicators that come in the CSC kit to apply it to my trim and wheels, all of the other areas I used the microfiber applicators.  I used 5 of the microfiber applicators in total in the process, I found that after using them for a couple panels they would start to leave a fuzz behind, so I just threw that one away and picked up a fresh one.  When removing the excess oils, ANGLES, ANGLES, ANGLES!  Although I had great lighting at my disposal, I would look at the panel from 3 different directions and usually I would find at least 1 spot I missed somehow.  Once I was completely finished, I then let it sit about 12 to 16 hours in the garage before moving on to the final steps. 
 
Ceramic Boost, Undercarriage Spray and Tire Dressing:
Ceramic Boost Double soft Microfiber towels Single Soft Microfiber Towels Microfiber Utility Towel Undercarriage Spray Tire Shine Black Hex Grip Applicator Block Applicator Cardboard cut to fit around wheels Venom Gloves This was the final steps in the whole process for me.  I addressed the undercarriage and Tires first so that I could clean up any overspray or dripping before boosting the wheels.  I took old Adams boxes (I saved them for this purpose) and deconstructed them to fit all the way around each tire.  I then worked each tire and wheel well like I would on the cleaning process one at a time, outside in.  I sprayed the undercarriage spray in the wheel well, then I used a piece of cardboard flexed into an arc (pic below) and sprayed the tire shine into the tread block all the way around the tire.  I used the hex grip applicator to level out the shine all around the tire.  My tires have the small grooves all the way around the tire and the hex grip applicator does good at helping to get the TS in all of those grooves.  Instead of wiping in a circle I would wipe from the rim outward to the tread block, then last wipe would be circular around the tire.  I let all of this set while I moved on to the ceramic boosting.  I changed my gloves and started from the top again and applied the Ceramic Boost sprayed directly on the panel and wiped down with a Double Soft Towel.  This is actually the only time that I use the premium towel during the Ceramic stages.  All other applicators/removal tools were the suede towels or microfiber applicators that got tossed away after use.  I'm not sure how to tell if the Boost I have is the 2.0 or not but it sure did seem to wipe up well.  I tried to find any indication on the bottle and I couldn't, but it is in the new Grey label style bottle so I'm assuming it is the 2.0.  I boosted the entire vehicle top to bottom.  I then addressed the wheels and tires again.  I changed my gloves and using a block applicator knocked down any streaking on the undercarriage spray, using Edgeless utility towel I cleaned up any overspray or dripping on the wheel itself.  I changed my gloves again and applied Ceramic boost to the rims. 


 
At this point I stepped back and really admired how far this truck had come from what it was.  I really thought it looked good before, but now it looks outstanding!  I would encourage anyone even thinking about doing this to try it.  Don't be stingy though and don't cut corners and listen to the advice of the professionals that are on this forum and those who have done it over and over.  They certainly helped me and that advice modified what I ended up doing by about 10 or 12 times!  I wouldn't omit anything that I did at this point, only add steps.  I hope this was enjoyable to read and I hope this helps someone else and I can give back to this community the way it has given to me!  Thanks for reading!

 
 

PLEASE don't take it out of the garage. It is way too pretty to chance it getting smudged or something.
 
It REALLY looks nice. One of the best looking black vehicles I've ever seen. It being a RAM helped put it in that category as well. 
 
Good Work. Looks NICE.

Thanks Ray! And thanks for all the input you have given me in other threads up to this point! Yes, definitely glad I polished with RHP!

Alright, let me set the stage for this one.  First off, I am by no means a professional detailer.  Prior to the last 5 months or so, I did not know anything about Adams products nor did I have any "arsenal" of products or materials.  I got started with Adams off of a post that a friend of mine liked on Instagram.  The videos intrigued me.  So I started lurking on the forums and watching videos and dipped my toe in with a mystery bucket.  That was all it took.  Now here I am, showing you what this stuff can do, and if I can do it, anyone can do it.  I don't have any polishers or any special machines, I just took a great deal of time and enjoyed working this project with my truck.  So here we go.  Oh and here is a before picture of my truck just before I started to work on it.

 
I have already posted another thread on my Interior detail and engine bay cleaning.  I started by completing those first. 
For the exterior cleaning I started with the Wheels, Tires, Wheel wells and Exhaust Tips.  Products and Materials Used:
Wheel Cleaner Tire and Rubber Cleaner ECO APC Car Shampoo Tire Brush Fender Brush Wheel Woolie Wheel Brush Lug Nut Brush Bucket of Clean Water w/ Grit Guard Tote of microfiber towels (I used the edgeless utility for any wipedown)
I started by getting my bucket half full of clean water and I added a bit of CS to it.  Here is where I kept all my brushes to be used.  I worked each wheel entirely before moving on to the next wheel.  On each wheel I would start by completely hosing down the wheel and well, removing as much dirt and grime as I could with water alone.  Then I started with the Wheel well, spraying it down with the ECO APC and using my Fender Brush that was soaking in the sudsy CS water, I would shake the excess in the bucket, then spray the brush with ECO APC and work the whole Wheel Well.  I then moved on to the tire and sprayed it down with the TRC and repeated the same steps with the Tire brush by shaking off the excess CS water and spraying the brush with a plug or 2 of TRC and working that tire.  Then lastly I used what I considered to be the most agressive product in the Wheel Cleaner and sprayed the barrels of the wheel and face really well, using the wheel woolie I scrubbed the barrels, man this is a tool that I would definitely suggest having, NO SCRAPED UP KNUCKLES!  Then I used the Wheel brush to clean off the remaining face of the wheel and finally I used the lug nut brush to clean all the spots that were hard to reach.  Now, the lug nut brush also in my opinion is crucial here.  There were spots inside the rim that did not scrub clean with the woolie that I was able to get with the lug nut brush and the same on the face of the wheel.  Highly recommended to have this guy handy.  I then sprayed down each wheel completely with water and inspected.  If there was a spot to be revisited, I did that at this time.  Now, as I used each of these tools I would give them a quick spray with the hose then scrub them on the grit guard in my bucket and let them sit there until the next wheel.  After all 4 wheels were complete I cleaned the exhaust tips with a spray or 2 of ECO APC and the wheel woolie and lug nut brush.
 
After completing all the wheels and exhaust tips, I knew I was about to wash the whole exterior, so I took this time to use the TRC and Utility Microfiber towels and clean all the oxidation I could from the rubber trim and other trim around my truck.  I would just spray into a spot on the towel and work each trim piece until that part of the towel was soiled, then rotate the spot on the towel and repeat.
 
Next I moved on to the first wash in my decontamination process.  First I prepped the area by cleaning out my wheel bucket, spraying out those tools and hanging them to dry and setting all those chemicals aside.  Next I gathered all the materials and tools for the First Strip Wash:
2 clean buckets w/ 2 clean grit guards 2 wash pads 1 microfiber Wash Mitt ( in case the pad was not aggressive enough) Adams Step Ladder Bug Remover Strip Wash Foam Cannon Pressure Washer Iron Remover

I started here by prepping all my chemicals and tools.  I mixed about 4oz of Strip wash in my Foam Cannon and set it aside.  I then followed the prep for the 2 bucket wash by filling a bucket with clean water and Grit Guard and my wash bucket with Clean water, a bit of Strip Wash and my wash pads with a squirt of Strip wash on each of them and foamed them up.  Now that I'm ready I used my pressure washer on a very mild pressure and went over the whole vehicle blasting off any bugs or obvious stuck on grime and junk.  Next I followed the method Adam used in his presentation video for the bug remover and sprayed down the grill, mirrors and windshield with the bug remover and let it sit while I hooked up my foam cannon to the pressure washer. Here is the link to the product page which is the only place I have found this video.
https://adamspolishes.com/collections/car-washing-products-best-car-shampoo/products/adams-bug-remover
I started from the back and foamed the whole truck leaving the areas where I had bug remover soaking for the very last bit of foaming, this way they got the most exposure to the bug remover and now have a mix of bug remover and strip wash on them!  TAKE THAT BUGS!!!    The hardest part of washing this truck for me is reaching every spot adequately, so I used my long Adams Step ladder and started from the roof and again followed around the vehicle leaving the Grill windshield and mirrors for last.  I'm gonna tell ya, it was pretty easy removing those bugs, and there were a lot on there.  I wish I had taken a better close up shot before and after.  I'm sold on this one.  Bug Remover will stay in my Arsenal!  Plus it smells good!  Now that the washing is done I Rinse from here.  Now, I did my rinse with my regular hose that has a multi-sprayer on it so I could control and switch from a shower spray to a stream spray if necessary.  I just personally find that easier to accomplish what I'm trying to do.  After a complete rinse, I did not dry, I worked around the vehicle with the Iron Remover panel or 2 at a time, spraying the panels, letting it sit for a couple minutes and then hosing off.  I worked in smaller sections because the wind was mildly blowing and I didn't want the stuff to dry on the truck as there are multiple warnings about letting it dry.  Now, my truck is black, so it was really hard for me to see anything happening until I actually washed it off and I could see a purple haze to the water coming off.  I pretty much used the entire bottle of this stuff on my truck, there was a little left but not enough to complete another vehicle, probably a 4th of the bottle left or less.
 
Next up was the Clay Decontamination.  For this step I had personally gone back and forth on how I wanted to complete this step.  Originally, I was going to mix up a bottle of CS diluted down and use that as my clay lube.  My thoughts were to have a lubricant that would not leave behind any protective properties since I was actively stripping that off.  Then, I had some discussion with @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin off forum about potentially just foaming each section of the vehicle that i was going to clay ensuring that I would have the lubricity there.  All in all, with the mild wind coupled with the hassle of grabbing my pressure washer each time I wanted to clay a new section, I abandoned that thought all together and just used Detail Spray.  I was able to control that and work at a steady pace and also work indoors in my garage.  Shout out to @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin for all the great detailing conversation on and off the forum!  Much appreciated!
Here are the tools I used for the Clay Decontamination:
Visco Clay Kit 1 Refill Visco Clay in case I dropped the one I was using 2 Bottles of Detail Spray Step Ladder This part of the process was brand new to me altogether.  I have never clayed a vehicle before and let me tell you, it was easier than I anticipated and very satisfying!  It is very hard to describe the feel of the process but you can "feel" what you need to clay a little more and what is done.  I really like the visco clay bar kit.  The Geo-Impression tool not only helps to mold the clay so it will pick up the contamination better, but it acts as a handle kind of and it feels good in your hands and it is very easy to hold on to.  I worked 1 panel at a time here in the garage spraying the panel with DS and then 1 shot of DS on my clay each time I started a new section or anytime it seemed like it wasn't slick and again, you can feel that.  I honestly thought I wouldn't see much on my truck because its in pretty good shape and stays in the garage when I'm not driving it, but man, there was a good bit on there and I used up the entire clay bar on the whole vehicle.  The way I approached this was kind of how I did washing the vehicle.  I did the panels that I thought were the least soiled first and left my grill and wheels for last, that way if I was picking up big bits of bug remnants or anything I was not doing that first, but rather towards the end of the clay procedure.  I made it a point also to feel the panel with my hand before and after claying.

 
Next I did a Clean Up Wash:
2 clean buckets w/ 2 clean grit guards 2 wash pads Adams Step Ladder Strip Wash Foam Cannon Pressure Washer Great White Drying Towel Accessory Drying Towel This was pretty straight forward.  Before Starting I made sure my 2 previous wash buckets were emptied and cleaned out and sprayed out with the hose as well as the wash pads thoroughly cleaned up.  I still had about a half a bottle of the strip wash from the first wash so that is what I used to foam the vehicle.  I foamed the truck and washed it top down and then rinsed with the hose thoroughly.  Since I was not going any further at the time I chose to go ahead and dry off the vehicle.  So once it was rinsed I pulled in the garage and used my GW Drying Towel to get all the big panels and then the Accessory Drying Towel for spot checking and cleaning up drips.  I did not use any form of compressed air.  In the future I will probably invest in the sidekick and this step would have probably been way easier.

Next step I took was to Polish the Truck:
Venom Gloves Revive Hand Polish Blue Hex Grip Applicator Single Soft Microfiber Towels Step Ladder Respirator
I'll be honest.  I was not going to do this step when I first started buying the tools for Ceramic Coating.  I don't own a polisher, really didn't want to make that investment right now, and have zero experience with polishing.  However, I am so glad that I took this step.  I used the least possible aggressive method by hand polishing and using Revive, but I'm telling you, it made a great deal of difference in the shine of my Clear/Paint.  I started this step with much skepticism, and ended thinking about buying a polisher and learning how to do it better.  This step took me the better half of a day to complete.  I really took my time and really focused on what I was doing and tried not to make it a chore.  I put a couple JRE podcasts on to listen to and took many breaks throughout the process.  I made sure I had comfortable seating (That Adams Rolling Detail Chair is in my future BTW  ), I took the globes off the lights in my garage to ensure I had the maximum amount of lighting and I had several LED Flashlights at my disposal to check the paint and polishing.  It took me a good bit to get the amount of polish right, there were a couple times I put too much, and in that case I just polished a bigger section and primed the pad with DS for the next bit until the polish got thin before I put more on.  After finishing this step I went ahead and cleaned up this pad with some APC and set it aside to dry.  Just polishing made a noticeable difference.
 
And here we are folks....I did all that for this moment!  It was pretty dadgum exciting!  Now is the time for the Surface Prep and Ceramic Spray Coating:
Venom Gloves Respirator Adams Surface Prep Spray Single Soft Microfiber Towels Step Ladder Microfiber Applicators Suede Removal Towels
A couple things I want to mention.  The Gloves are a must for both polishing and coating.  There is no way not to get any of this on your hands.  I had originally purchased a pair of gloves off the Adams site, but I found these Venom Gloves at Lowe's when I got my cool flow disposable respirators and I really like them.  They are very comfortable and my hands didn't sweat in them like they normally do in gloves.  I went through about 12 pairs in this whole process because I would throw them out anytime I stopped and took a break or moved to a different process.  I also highly recommend the Adams Surface Prep Spray.  I know you can mix your own but this spray was easy to use and cleaned the area well.  I could see in the Single Soft Towels where it was blue when I prepped some panels because I had not completely removed all the polish.  To my naked eye it looked as if I had, but the prep spray saw it differently  .  
 
I only took a portion of a panel at a time to complete this process.  I wanted to make sure that I was cleaning, coating and removing all before moving on.  I would prep the entire panel first and then I would coat a section around 2 x 2, let it flash, then use the suede removal towels to buff off the oils.  These suede towels are another thing that I was NOT going to use originally but I'm so glad I did.  They really made removal and buffing of the CSC easy.  I coated the entire vehicle including the wheels.  I took the advice of @falcaineer and I did not level any of the CSC that I put on the plastic trim.  Speaking of the trim, I used the small suede applicators that come in the CSC kit to apply it to my trim and wheels, all of the other areas I used the microfiber applicators.  I used 5 of the microfiber applicators in total in the process, I found that after using them for a couple panels they would start to leave a fuzz behind, so I just threw that one away and picked up a fresh one.  When removing the excess oils, ANGLES, ANGLES, ANGLES!  Although I had great lighting at my disposal, I would look at the panel from 3 different directions and usually I would find at least 1 spot I missed somehow.  Once I was completely finished, I then let it sit about 12 to 16 hours in the garage before moving on to the final steps. 
 
Ceramic Boost, Undercarriage Spray and Tire Dressing:
Ceramic Boost Double soft Microfiber towels Single Soft Microfiber Towels Microfiber Utility Towel Undercarriage Spray Tire Shine Black Hex Grip Applicator Block Applicator Cardboard cut to fit around wheels Venom Gloves This was the final steps in the whole process for me.  I addressed the undercarriage and Tires first so that I could clean up any overspray or dripping before boosting the wheels.  I took old Adams boxes (I saved them for this purpose) and deconstructed them to fit all the way around each tire.  I then worked each tire and wheel well like I would on the cleaning process one at a time, outside in.  I sprayed the undercarriage spray in the wheel well, then I used a piece of cardboard flexed into an arc (pic below) and sprayed the tire shine into the tread block all the way around the tire.  I used the hex grip applicator to level out the shine all around the tire.  My tires have the small grooves all the way around the tire and the hex grip applicator does good at helping to get the TS in all of those grooves.  Instead of wiping in a circle I would wipe from the rim outward to the tread block, then last wipe would be circular around the tire.  I let all of this set while I moved on to the ceramic boosting.  I changed my gloves and started from the top again and applied the Ceramic Boost sprayed directly on the panel and wiped down with a Double Soft Towel.  This is actually the only time that I use the premium towel during the Ceramic stages.  All other applicators/removal tools were the suede towels or microfiber applicators that got tossed away after use.  I'm not sure how to tell if the Boost I have is the 2.0 or not but it sure did seem to wipe up well.  I tried to find any indication on the bottle and I couldn't, but it is in the new Grey label style bottle so I'm assuming it is the 2.0.  I boosted the entire vehicle top to bottom.  I then addressed the wheels and tires again.  I changed my gloves and using a block applicator knocked down any streaking on the undercarriage spray, using Edgeless utility towel I cleaned up any overspray or dripping on the wheel itself.  I changed my gloves again and applied Ceramic boost to the rims. 


 
At this point I stepped back and really admired how far this truck had come from what it was.  I really thought it looked good before, but now it looks outstanding!  I would encourage anyone even thinking about doing this to try it.  Don't be stingy though and don't cut corners and listen to the advice of the professionals that are on this forum and those who have done it over and over.  They certainly helped me and that advice modified what I ended up doing by about 10 or 12 times!  I wouldn't omit anything that I did at this point, only add steps.  I hope this was enjoyable to read and I hope this helps someone else and I can give back to this community the way it has given to me!  Thanks for reading!

 
 

Hi Matt,
If the vehicle is truly in a clean state, you may want to consider Revive Hand Polish over Finishing Polish.  One of the first reviews that I read when I came to this forum was about Revive and I ordered my first bottle.   I keep my vehicles in good shape and they don't always need a true polishing and that is where Revive comes in.  If I were to look in my book, I'm pretty sure it would show I use Revive twice for every one time I actually polish one of my vehicles.  
 
It will remove minor imperfections and swirls, the key being minor and something that is just a little more than what using Brilliant Glaze will cover.  If you aren't familiar Brilliant Glaze will hide minor imperfections and swirls.
 
I always use the Blue hand pad and for some places like the bottom of the trunk, I might have to use a orange hand pad.    If the Orange hand pad with Revive does not work, then I know it needs more correcting for the area.  The rule is to always use the least aggressive method possible and you don't have to use the same method for the entire vehicle. 
 
The picture with the Malibu is after I can cleaned it with Waterless Wash and applied Spray Wax, but a couple of weeks prior I had gone over the car with Revive.  I think it looks pretty good for a 2013 with 90,000 miles on it.

Yeah.  Im pretty sure that is my next evolution lol! Beginning next year I'll probably tip toe right into a SK mystery box..... 😁.  I'll certainly be asking lots of questions to u guys too! 

@stalebreadjr wait until you get a SK in your hands....Watch a few videos, ask a few questions and give it a shot!  I not good at much, my first attempt at SK was a success!   Ive done both my cars a few times...SK is soooo easy to use!

Wow, does the truck ever look great.   Thank you for spending the time on the write up.    I also had my doubts about Revive Hand Polish until the first time I used it and then I became a believer and it is part of every detailing.

Alright, let me set the stage for this one.  First off, I am by no means a professional detailer.  Prior to the last 5 months or so, I did not know anything about Adams products nor did I have any "arsenal" of products or materials.  I got started with Adams off of a post that a friend of mine liked on Instagram.  The videos intrigued me.  So I started lurking on the forums and watching videos and dipped my toe in with a mystery bucket.  That was all it took.  Now here I am, showing you what this stuff can do, and if I can do it, anyone can do it.  I don't have any polishers or any special machines, I just took a great deal of time and enjoyed working this project with my truck.  So here we go.  Oh and here is a before picture of my truck just before I started to work on it.

 
I have already posted another thread on my Interior detail and engine bay cleaning.  I started by completing those first. 
For the exterior cleaning I started with the Wheels, Tires, Wheel wells and Exhaust Tips.  Products and Materials Used:
Wheel Cleaner Tire and Rubber Cleaner ECO APC Car Shampoo Tire Brush Fender Brush Wheel Woolie Wheel Brush Lug Nut Brush Bucket of Clean Water w/ Grit Guard Tote of microfiber towels (I used the edgeless utility for any wipedown)
I started by getting my bucket half full of clean water and I added a bit of CS to it.  Here is where I kept all my brushes to be used.  I worked each wheel entirely before moving on to the next wheel.  On each wheel I would start by completely hosing down the wheel and well, removing as much dirt and grime as I could with water alone.  Then I started with the Wheel well, spraying it down with the ECO APC and using my Fender Brush that was soaking in the sudsy CS water, I would shake the excess in the bucket, then spray the brush with ECO APC and work the whole Wheel Well.  I then moved on to the tire and sprayed it down with the TRC and repeated the same steps with the Tire brush by shaking off the excess CS water and spraying the brush with a plug or 2 of TRC and working that tire.  Then lastly I used what I considered to be the most agressive product in the Wheel Cleaner and sprayed the barrels of the wheel and face really well, using the wheel woolie I scrubbed the barrels, man this is a tool that I would definitely suggest having, NO SCRAPED UP KNUCKLES!  Then I used the Wheel brush to clean off the remaining face of the wheel and finally I used the lug nut brush to clean all the spots that were hard to reach.  Now, the lug nut brush also in my opinion is crucial here.  There were spots inside the rim that did not scrub clean with the woolie that I was able to get with the lug nut brush and the same on the face of the wheel.  Highly recommended to have this guy handy.  I then sprayed down each wheel completely with water and inspected.  If there was a spot to be revisited, I did that at this time.  Now, as I used each of these tools I would give them a quick spray with the hose then scrub them on the grit guard in my bucket and let them sit there until the next wheel.  After all 4 wheels were complete I cleaned the exhaust tips with a spray or 2 of ECO APC and the wheel woolie and lug nut brush.
 
After completing all the wheels and exhaust tips, I knew I was about to wash the whole exterior, so I took this time to use the TRC and Utility Microfiber towels and clean all the oxidation I could from the rubber trim and other trim around my truck.  I would just spray into a spot on the towel and work each trim piece until that part of the towel was soiled, then rotate the spot on the towel and repeat.
 
Next I moved on to the first wash in my decontamination process.  First I prepped the area by cleaning out my wheel bucket, spraying out those tools and hanging them to dry and setting all those chemicals aside.  Next I gathered all the materials and tools for the First Strip Wash:
2 clean buckets w/ 2 clean grit guards 2 wash pads 1 microfiber Wash Mitt ( in case the pad was not aggressive enough) Adams Step Ladder Bug Remover Strip Wash Foam Cannon Pressure Washer Iron Remover

I started here by prepping all my chemicals and tools.  I mixed about 4oz of Strip wash in my Foam Cannon and set it aside.  I then followed the prep for the 2 bucket wash by filling a bucket with clean water and Grit Guard and my wash bucket with Clean water, a bit of Strip Wash and my wash pads with a squirt of Strip wash on each of them and foamed them up.  Now that I'm ready I used my pressure washer on a very mild pressure and went over the whole vehicle blasting off any bugs or obvious stuck on grime and junk.  Next I followed the method Adam used in his presentation video for the bug remover and sprayed down the grill, mirrors and windshield with the bug remover and let it sit while I hooked up my foam cannon to the pressure washer. Here is the link to the product page which is the only place I have found this video.
https://adamspolishes.com/collections/car-washing-products-best-car-shampoo/products/adams-bug-remover
I started from the back and foamed the whole truck leaving the areas where I had bug remover soaking for the very last bit of foaming, this way they got the most exposure to the bug remover and now have a mix of bug remover and strip wash on them!  TAKE THAT BUGS!!!    The hardest part of washing this truck for me is reaching every spot adequately, so I used my long Adams Step ladder and started from the roof and again followed around the vehicle leaving the Grill windshield and mirrors for last.  I'm gonna tell ya, it was pretty easy removing those bugs, and there were a lot on there.  I wish I had taken a better close up shot before and after.  I'm sold on this one.  Bug Remover will stay in my Arsenal!  Plus it smells good!  Now that the washing is done I Rinse from here.  Now, I did my rinse with my regular hose that has a multi-sprayer on it so I could control and switch from a shower spray to a stream spray if necessary.  I just personally find that easier to accomplish what I'm trying to do.  After a complete rinse, I did not dry, I worked around the vehicle with the Iron Remover panel or 2 at a time, spraying the panels, letting it sit for a couple minutes and then hosing off.  I worked in smaller sections because the wind was mildly blowing and I didn't want the stuff to dry on the truck as there are multiple warnings about letting it dry.  Now, my truck is black, so it was really hard for me to see anything happening until I actually washed it off and I could see a purple haze to the water coming off.  I pretty much used the entire bottle of this stuff on my truck, there was a little left but not enough to complete another vehicle, probably a 4th of the bottle left or less.
 
Next up was the Clay Decontamination.  For this step I had personally gone back and forth on how I wanted to complete this step.  Originally, I was going to mix up a bottle of CS diluted down and use that as my clay lube.  My thoughts were to have a lubricant that would not leave behind any protective properties since I was actively stripping that off.  Then, I had some discussion with @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin off forum about potentially just foaming each section of the vehicle that i was going to clay ensuring that I would have the lubricity there.  All in all, with the mild wind coupled with the hassle of grabbing my pressure washer each time I wanted to clay a new section, I abandoned that thought all together and just used Detail Spray.  I was able to control that and work at a steady pace and also work indoors in my garage.  Shout out to @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin for all the great detailing conversation on and off the forum!  Much appreciated!
Here are the tools I used for the Clay Decontamination:
Visco Clay Kit 1 Refill Visco Clay in case I dropped the one I was using 2 Bottles of Detail Spray Step Ladder This part of the process was brand new to me altogether.  I have never clayed a vehicle before and let me tell you, it was easier than I anticipated and very satisfying!  It is very hard to describe the feel of the process but you can "feel" what you need to clay a little more and what is done.  I really like the visco clay bar kit.  The Geo-Impression tool not only helps to mold the clay so it will pick up the contamination better, but it acts as a handle kind of and it feels good in your hands and it is very easy to hold on to.  I worked 1 panel at a time here in the garage spraying the panel with DS and then 1 shot of DS on my clay each time I started a new section or anytime it seemed like it wasn't slick and again, you can feel that.  I honestly thought I wouldn't see much on my truck because its in pretty good shape and stays in the garage when I'm not driving it, but man, there was a good bit on there and I used up the entire clay bar on the whole vehicle.  The way I approached this was kind of how I did washing the vehicle.  I did the panels that I thought were the least soiled first and left my grill and wheels for last, that way if I was picking up big bits of bug remnants or anything I was not doing that first, but rather towards the end of the clay procedure.  I made it a point also to feel the panel with my hand before and after claying.

 
Next I did a Clean Up Wash:
2 clean buckets w/ 2 clean grit guards 2 wash pads Adams Step Ladder Strip Wash Foam Cannon Pressure Washer Great White Drying Towel Accessory Drying Towel This was pretty straight forward.  Before Starting I made sure my 2 previous wash buckets were emptied and cleaned out and sprayed out with the hose as well as the wash pads thoroughly cleaned up.  I still had about a half a bottle of the strip wash from the first wash so that is what I used to foam the vehicle.  I foamed the truck and washed it top down and then rinsed with the hose thoroughly.  Since I was not going any further at the time I chose to go ahead and dry off the vehicle.  So once it was rinsed I pulled in the garage and used my GW Drying Towel to get all the big panels and then the Accessory Drying Towel for spot checking and cleaning up drips.  I did not use any form of compressed air.  In the future I will probably invest in the sidekick and this step would have probably been way easier.

Next step I took was to Polish the Truck:
Venom Gloves Revive Hand Polish Blue Hex Grip Applicator Single Soft Microfiber Towels Step Ladder Respirator
I'll be honest.  I was not going to do this step when I first started buying the tools for Ceramic Coating.  I don't own a polisher, really didn't want to make that investment right now, and have zero experience with polishing.  However, I am so glad that I took this step.  I used the least possible aggressive method by hand polishing and using Revive, but I'm telling you, it made a great deal of difference in the shine of my Clear/Paint.  I started this step with much skepticism, and ended thinking about buying a polisher and learning how to do it better.  This step took me the better half of a day to complete.  I really took my time and really focused on what I was doing and tried not to make it a chore.  I put a couple JRE podcasts on to listen to and took many breaks throughout the process.  I made sure I had comfortable seating (That Adams Rolling Detail Chair is in my future BTW  ), I took the globes off the lights in my garage to ensure I had the maximum amount of lighting and I had several LED Flashlights at my disposal to check the paint and polishing.  It took me a good bit to get the amount of polish right, there were a couple times I put too much, and in that case I just polished a bigger section and primed the pad with DS for the next bit until the polish got thin before I put more on.  After finishing this step I went ahead and cleaned up this pad with some APC and set it aside to dry.  Just polishing made a noticeable difference.
 
And here we are folks....I did all that for this moment!  It was pretty dadgum exciting!  Now is the time for the Surface Prep and Ceramic Spray Coating:
Venom Gloves Respirator Adams Surface Prep Spray Single Soft Microfiber Towels Step Ladder Microfiber Applicators Suede Removal Towels
A couple things I want to mention.  The Gloves are a must for both polishing and coating.  There is no way not to get any of this on your hands.  I had originally purchased a pair of gloves off the Adams site, but I found these Venom Gloves at Lowe's when I got my cool flow disposable respirators and I really like them.  They are very comfortable and my hands didn't sweat in them like they normally do in gloves.  I went through about 12 pairs in this whole process because I would throw them out anytime I stopped and took a break or moved to a different process.  I also highly recommend the Adams Surface Prep Spray.  I know you can mix your own but this spray was easy to use and cleaned the area well.  I could see in the Single Soft Towels where it was blue when I prepped some panels because I had not completely removed all the polish.  To my naked eye it looked as if I had, but the prep spray saw it differently  .  
 
I only took a portion of a panel at a time to complete this process.  I wanted to make sure that I was cleaning, coating and removing all before moving on.  I would prep the entire panel first and then I would coat a section around 2 x 2, let it flash, then use the suede removal towels to buff off the oils.  These suede towels are another thing that I was NOT going to use originally but I'm so glad I did.  They really made removal and buffing of the CSC easy.  I coated the entire vehicle including the wheels.  I took the advice of @falcaineer and I did not level any of the CSC that I put on the plastic trim.  Speaking of the trim, I used the small suede applicators that come in the CSC kit to apply it to my trim and wheels, all of the other areas I used the microfiber applicators.  I used 5 of the microfiber applicators in total in the process, I found that after using them for a couple panels they would start to leave a fuzz behind, so I just threw that one away and picked up a fresh one.  When removing the excess oils, ANGLES, ANGLES, ANGLES!  Although I had great lighting at my disposal, I would look at the panel from 3 different directions and usually I would find at least 1 spot I missed somehow.  Once I was completely finished, I then let it sit about 12 to 16 hours in the garage before moving on to the final steps. 
 
Ceramic Boost, Undercarriage Spray and Tire Dressing:
Ceramic Boost Double soft Microfiber towels Single Soft Microfiber Towels Microfiber Utility Towel Undercarriage Spray Tire Shine Black Hex Grip Applicator Block Applicator Cardboard cut to fit around wheels Venom Gloves This was the final steps in the whole process for me.  I addressed the undercarriage and Tires first so that I could clean up any overspray or dripping before boosting the wheels.  I took old Adams boxes (I saved them for this purpose) and deconstructed them to fit all the way around each tire.  I then worked each tire and wheel well like I would on the cleaning process one at a time, outside in.  I sprayed the undercarriage spray in the wheel well, then I used a piece of cardboard flexed into an arc (pic below) and sprayed the tire shine into the tread block all the way around the tire.  I used the hex grip applicator to level out the shine all around the tire.  My tires have the small grooves all the way around the tire and the hex grip applicator does good at helping to get the TS in all of those grooves.  Instead of wiping in a circle I would wipe from the rim outward to the tread block, then last wipe would be circular around the tire.  I let all of this set while I moved on to the ceramic boosting.  I changed my gloves and started from the top again and applied the Ceramic Boost sprayed directly on the panel and wiped down with a Double Soft Towel.  This is actually the only time that I use the premium towel during the Ceramic stages.  All other applicators/removal tools were the suede towels or microfiber applicators that got tossed away after use.  I'm not sure how to tell if the Boost I have is the 2.0 or not but it sure did seem to wipe up well.  I tried to find any indication on the bottle and I couldn't, but it is in the new Grey label style bottle so I'm assuming it is the 2.0.  I boosted the entire vehicle top to bottom.  I then addressed the wheels and tires again.  I changed my gloves and using a block applicator knocked down any streaking on the undercarriage spray, using Edgeless utility towel I cleaned up any overspray or dripping on the wheel itself.  I changed my gloves again and applied Ceramic boost to the rims. 


 
At this point I stepped back and really admired how far this truck had come from what it was.  I really thought it looked good before, but now it looks outstanding!  I would encourage anyone even thinking about doing this to try it.  Don't be stingy though and don't cut corners and listen to the advice of the professionals that are on this forum and those who have done it over and over.  They certainly helped me and that advice modified what I ended up doing by about 10 or 12 times!  I wouldn't omit anything that I did at this point, only add steps.  I hope this was enjoyable to read and I hope this helps someone else and I can give back to this community the way it has given to me!  Thanks for reading!

 
 

Looks great..unreal, in-depth write up which will Be extremely beneficial to all current and future forum members!!

Alright, let me set the stage for this one.  First off, I am by no means a professional detailer.  Prior to the last 5 months or so, I did not know anything about Adams products nor did I have any "arsenal" of products or materials.  I got started with Adams off of a post that a friend of mine liked on Instagram.  The videos intrigued me.  So I started lurking on the forums and watching videos and dipped my toe in with a mystery bucket.  That was all it took.  Now here I am, showing you what this stuff can do, and if I can do it, anyone can do it.  I don't have any polishers or any special machines, I just took a great deal of time and enjoyed working this project with my truck.  So here we go.  Oh and here is a before picture of my truck just before I started to work on it.

 
I have already posted another thread on my Interior detail and engine bay cleaning.  I started by completing those first. 
For the exterior cleaning I started with the Wheels, Tires, Wheel wells and Exhaust Tips.  Products and Materials Used:
Wheel Cleaner Tire and Rubber Cleaner ECO APC Car Shampoo Tire Brush Fender Brush Wheel Woolie Wheel Brush Lug Nut Brush Bucket of Clean Water w/ Grit Guard Tote of microfiber towels (I used the edgeless utility for any wipedown)
I started by getting my bucket half full of clean water and I added a bit of CS to it.  Here is where I kept all my brushes to be used.  I worked each wheel entirely before moving on to the next wheel.  On each wheel I would start by completely hosing down the wheel and well, removing as much dirt and grime as I could with water alone.  Then I started with the Wheel well, spraying it down with the ECO APC and using my Fender Brush that was soaking in the sudsy CS water, I would shake the excess in the bucket, then spray the brush with ECO APC and work the whole Wheel Well.  I then moved on to the tire and sprayed it down with the TRC and repeated the same steps with the Tire brush by shaking off the excess CS water and spraying the brush with a plug or 2 of TRC and working that tire.  Then lastly I used what I considered to be the most agressive product in the Wheel Cleaner and sprayed the barrels of the wheel and face really well, using the wheel woolie I scrubbed the barrels, man this is a tool that I would definitely suggest having, NO SCRAPED UP KNUCKLES!  Then I used the Wheel brush to clean off the remaining face of the wheel and finally I used the lug nut brush to clean all the spots that were hard to reach.  Now, the lug nut brush also in my opinion is crucial here.  There were spots inside the rim that did not scrub clean with the woolie that I was able to get with the lug nut brush and the same on the face of the wheel.  Highly recommended to have this guy handy.  I then sprayed down each wheel completely with water and inspected.  If there was a spot to be revisited, I did that at this time.  Now, as I used each of these tools I would give them a quick spray with the hose then scrub them on the grit guard in my bucket and let them sit there until the next wheel.  After all 4 wheels were complete I cleaned the exhaust tips with a spray or 2 of ECO APC and the wheel woolie and lug nut brush.
 
After completing all the wheels and exhaust tips, I knew I was about to wash the whole exterior, so I took this time to use the TRC and Utility Microfiber towels and clean all the oxidation I could from the rubber trim and other trim around my truck.  I would just spray into a spot on the towel and work each trim piece until that part of the towel was soiled, then rotate the spot on the towel and repeat.
 
Next I moved on to the first wash in my decontamination process.  First I prepped the area by cleaning out my wheel bucket, spraying out those tools and hanging them to dry and setting all those chemicals aside.  Next I gathered all the materials and tools for the First Strip Wash:
2 clean buckets w/ 2 clean grit guards 2 wash pads 1 microfiber Wash Mitt ( in case the pad was not aggressive enough) Adams Step Ladder Bug Remover Strip Wash Foam Cannon Pressure Washer Iron Remover

I started here by prepping all my chemicals and tools.  I mixed about 4oz of Strip wash in my Foam Cannon and set it aside.  I then followed the prep for the 2 bucket wash by filling a bucket with clean water and Grit Guard and my wash bucket with Clean water, a bit of Strip Wash and my wash pads with a squirt of Strip wash on each of them and foamed them up.  Now that I'm ready I used my pressure washer on a very mild pressure and went over the whole vehicle blasting off any bugs or obvious stuck on grime and junk.  Next I followed the method Adam used in his presentation video for the bug remover and sprayed down the grill, mirrors and windshield with the bug remover and let it sit while I hooked up my foam cannon to the pressure washer. Here is the link to the product page which is the only place I have found this video.
https://adamspolishes.com/collections/car-washing-products-best-car-shampoo/products/adams-bug-remover
I started from the back and foamed the whole truck leaving the areas where I had bug remover soaking for the very last bit of foaming, this way they got the most exposure to the bug remover and now have a mix of bug remover and strip wash on them!  TAKE THAT BUGS!!!    The hardest part of washing this truck for me is reaching every spot adequately, so I used my long Adams Step ladder and started from the roof and again followed around the vehicle leaving the Grill windshield and mirrors for last.  I'm gonna tell ya, it was pretty easy removing those bugs, and there were a lot on there.  I wish I had taken a better close up shot before and after.  I'm sold on this one.  Bug Remover will stay in my Arsenal!  Plus it smells good!  Now that the washing is done I Rinse from here.  Now, I did my rinse with my regular hose that has a multi-sprayer on it so I could control and switch from a shower spray to a stream spray if necessary.  I just personally find that easier to accomplish what I'm trying to do.  After a complete rinse, I did not dry, I worked around the vehicle with the Iron Remover panel or 2 at a time, spraying the panels, letting it sit for a couple minutes and then hosing off.  I worked in smaller sections because the wind was mildly blowing and I didn't want the stuff to dry on the truck as there are multiple warnings about letting it dry.  Now, my truck is black, so it was really hard for me to see anything happening until I actually washed it off and I could see a purple haze to the water coming off.  I pretty much used the entire bottle of this stuff on my truck, there was a little left but not enough to complete another vehicle, probably a 4th of the bottle left or less.
 
Next up was the Clay Decontamination.  For this step I had personally gone back and forth on how I wanted to complete this step.  Originally, I was going to mix up a bottle of CS diluted down and use that as my clay lube.  My thoughts were to have a lubricant that would not leave behind any protective properties since I was actively stripping that off.  Then, I had some discussion with @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin off forum about potentially just foaming each section of the vehicle that i was going to clay ensuring that I would have the lubricity there.  All in all, with the mild wind coupled with the hassle of grabbing my pressure washer each time I wanted to clay a new section, I abandoned that thought all together and just used Detail Spray.  I was able to control that and work at a steady pace and also work indoors in my garage.  Shout out to @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin for all the great detailing conversation on and off the forum!  Much appreciated!
Here are the tools I used for the Clay Decontamination:
Visco Clay Kit 1 Refill Visco Clay in case I dropped the one I was using 2 Bottles of Detail Spray Step Ladder This part of the process was brand new to me altogether.  I have never clayed a vehicle before and let me tell you, it was easier than I anticipated and very satisfying!  It is very hard to describe the feel of the process but you can "feel" what you need to clay a little more and what is done.  I really like the visco clay bar kit.  The Geo-Impression tool not only helps to mold the clay so it will pick up the contamination better, but it acts as a handle kind of and it feels good in your hands and it is very easy to hold on to.  I worked 1 panel at a time here in the garage spraying the panel with DS and then 1 shot of DS on my clay each time I started a new section or anytime it seemed like it wasn't slick and again, you can feel that.  I honestly thought I wouldn't see much on my truck because its in pretty good shape and stays in the garage when I'm not driving it, but man, there was a good bit on there and I used up the entire clay bar on the whole vehicle.  The way I approached this was kind of how I did washing the vehicle.  I did the panels that I thought were the least soiled first and left my grill and wheels for last, that way if I was picking up big bits of bug remnants or anything I was not doing that first, but rather towards the end of the clay procedure.  I made it a point also to feel the panel with my hand before and after claying.

 
Next I did a Clean Up Wash:
2 clean buckets w/ 2 clean grit guards 2 wash pads Adams Step Ladder Strip Wash Foam Cannon Pressure Washer Great White Drying Towel Accessory Drying Towel This was pretty straight forward.  Before Starting I made sure my 2 previous wash buckets were emptied and cleaned out and sprayed out with the hose as well as the wash pads thoroughly cleaned up.  I still had about a half a bottle of the strip wash from the first wash so that is what I used to foam the vehicle.  I foamed the truck and washed it top down and then rinsed with the hose thoroughly.  Since I was not going any further at the time I chose to go ahead and dry off the vehicle.  So once it was rinsed I pulled in the garage and used my GW Drying Towel to get all the big panels and then the Accessory Drying Towel for spot checking and cleaning up drips.  I did not use any form of compressed air.  In the future I will probably invest in the sidekick and this step would have probably been way easier.

Next step I took was to Polish the Truck:
Venom Gloves Revive Hand Polish Blue Hex Grip Applicator Single Soft Microfiber Towels Step Ladder Respirator
I'll be honest.  I was not going to do this step when I first started buying the tools for Ceramic Coating.  I don't own a polisher, really didn't want to make that investment right now, and have zero experience with polishing.  However, I am so glad that I took this step.  I used the least possible aggressive method by hand polishing and using Revive, but I'm telling you, it made a great deal of difference in the shine of my Clear/Paint.  I started this step with much skepticism, and ended thinking about buying a polisher and learning how to do it better.  This step took me the better half of a day to complete.  I really took my time and really focused on what I was doing and tried not to make it a chore.  I put a couple JRE podcasts on to listen to and took many breaks throughout the process.  I made sure I had comfortable seating (That Adams Rolling Detail Chair is in my future BTW  ), I took the globes off the lights in my garage to ensure I had the maximum amount of lighting and I had several LED Flashlights at my disposal to check the paint and polishing.  It took me a good bit to get the amount of polish right, there were a couple times I put too much, and in that case I just polished a bigger section and primed the pad with DS for the next bit until the polish got thin before I put more on.  After finishing this step I went ahead and cleaned up this pad with some APC and set it aside to dry.  Just polishing made a noticeable difference.
 
And here we are folks....I did all that for this moment!  It was pretty dadgum exciting!  Now is the time for the Surface Prep and Ceramic Spray Coating:
Venom Gloves Respirator Adams Surface Prep Spray Single Soft Microfiber Towels Step Ladder Microfiber Applicators Suede Removal Towels
A couple things I want to mention.  The Gloves are a must for both polishing and coating.  There is no way not to get any of this on your hands.  I had originally purchased a pair of gloves off the Adams site, but I found these Venom Gloves at Lowe's when I got my cool flow disposable respirators and I really like them.  They are very comfortable and my hands didn't sweat in them like they normally do in gloves.  I went through about 12 pairs in this whole process because I would throw them out anytime I stopped and took a break or moved to a different process.  I also highly recommend the Adams Surface Prep Spray.  I know you can mix your own but this spray was easy to use and cleaned the area well.  I could see in the Single Soft Towels where it was blue when I prepped some panels because I had not completely removed all the polish.  To my naked eye it looked as if I had, but the prep spray saw it differently  .  
 
I only took a portion of a panel at a time to complete this process.  I wanted to make sure that I was cleaning, coating and removing all before moving on.  I would prep the entire panel first and then I would coat a section around 2 x 2, let it flash, then use the suede removal towels to buff off the oils.  These suede towels are another thing that I was NOT going to use originally but I'm so glad I did.  They really made removal and buffing of the CSC easy.  I coated the entire vehicle including the wheels.  I took the advice of @falcaineer and I did not level any of the CSC that I put on the plastic trim.  Speaking of the trim, I used the small suede applicators that come in the CSC kit to apply it to my trim and wheels, all of the other areas I used the microfiber applicators.  I used 5 of the microfiber applicators in total in the process, I found that after using them for a couple panels they would start to leave a fuzz behind, so I just threw that one away and picked up a fresh one.  When removing the excess oils, ANGLES, ANGLES, ANGLES!  Although I had great lighting at my disposal, I would look at the panel from 3 different directions and usually I would find at least 1 spot I missed somehow.  Once I was completely finished, I then let it sit about 12 to 16 hours in the garage before moving on to the final steps. 
 
Ceramic Boost, Undercarriage Spray and Tire Dressing:
Ceramic Boost Double soft Microfiber towels Single Soft Microfiber Towels Microfiber Utility Towel Undercarriage Spray Tire Shine Black Hex Grip Applicator Block Applicator Cardboard cut to fit around wheels Venom Gloves This was the final steps in the whole process for me.  I addressed the undercarriage and Tires first so that I could clean up any overspray or dripping before boosting the wheels.  I took old Adams boxes (I saved them for this purpose) and deconstructed them to fit all the way around each tire.  I then worked each tire and wheel well like I would on the cleaning process one at a time, outside in.  I sprayed the undercarriage spray in the wheel well, then I used a piece of cardboard flexed into an arc (pic below) and sprayed the tire shine into the tread block all the way around the tire.  I used the hex grip applicator to level out the shine all around the tire.  My tires have the small grooves all the way around the tire and the hex grip applicator does good at helping to get the TS in all of those grooves.  Instead of wiping in a circle I would wipe from the rim outward to the tread block, then last wipe would be circular around the tire.  I let all of this set while I moved on to the ceramic boosting.  I changed my gloves and started from the top again and applied the Ceramic Boost sprayed directly on the panel and wiped down with a Double Soft Towel.  This is actually the only time that I use the premium towel during the Ceramic stages.  All other applicators/removal tools were the suede towels or microfiber applicators that got tossed away after use.  I'm not sure how to tell if the Boost I have is the 2.0 or not but it sure did seem to wipe up well.  I tried to find any indication on the bottle and I couldn't, but it is in the new Grey label style bottle so I'm assuming it is the 2.0.  I boosted the entire vehicle top to bottom.  I then addressed the wheels and tires again.  I changed my gloves and using a block applicator knocked down any streaking on the undercarriage spray, using Edgeless utility towel I cleaned up any overspray or dripping on the wheel itself.  I changed my gloves again and applied Ceramic boost to the rims. 


 
At this point I stepped back and really admired how far this truck had come from what it was.  I really thought it looked good before, but now it looks outstanding!  I would encourage anyone even thinking about doing this to try it.  Don't be stingy though and don't cut corners and listen to the advice of the professionals that are on this forum and those who have done it over and over.  They certainly helped me and that advice modified what I ended up doing by about 10 or 12 times!  I wouldn't omit anything that I did at this point, only add steps.  I hope this was enjoyable to read and I hope this helps someone else and I can give back to this community the way it has given to me!  Thanks for reading!

 
 

Strip Wash > Visco Clay > Coating Prep > Ceramic Spray Coating
 

Happy birthday my friend.  Hope you got to enjoy it relaxing with your beautiful family.  Here's to 100 more.  
Rich

My understanding of what he was talking about, was that CS and MF do not have any additional protection agents or additives that would remain on the surface of the vehicle after use.  So if you were preparing to do a ceramic coating, you would use either of these shampoos before moving on to paint correction, polishing and coating.  Whereas the Wash and Wax and Ultra Foam DO have additives that you don't really want there prior to moving on to those correction steps.
 
Alternatively, if you have already completed a ceramic coating, you DO want to use the Wash and Wax or UF shampoos because they would continue to play off that ceramic coating and increase protection.  
 
That is how I understood the video. 

Nice detail job captain!