stalebreadjr

Nice job Ray!  Looks fantastic!

https://adamspolishes.com/collections/ceramic-paint-coating-9h
 
Just finished up this nice GMC, washed,clayed, paint correction & Ceramic UV Coating. Check out before & after pics.
 

I posted the emblem a few days ago and have now completed the majority of the 1972 Datsun 240z.  The manufacture date was November 1971 and it was a bit rough to begin with.  This was the first picture once it was put in my garage and there was no doubt it was going to a bit of work to get it to an acceptable condition.  I knew going into it that there were some scratches that were not going to come out and a few other flaws that could only be solved with a repaint.  Overall, the goal was to clean it up for the owner and make it presentable so it could be put up for sale.  

 
The oxidation of the paint and many years of sitting in garage left me little doubt that it was going to be nasty details.  After the strip was, APC touch ups, a few more APC touch ups, I finally found the vehicle underneath the gunk.  To be honest, I didn't think it looked to bad once the crud was off from it. 
 

As the wife reminds me of often, I've been wrong before and this was no exception.  I did a small test area and decided that with the age and known flaws, I didn't want to go too aggressive, so I went with a Orange pad and Correcting Polish.  I knew I could get more aggressive if needed, but was more concerned about not doing any additional harm.   After all the washing, this is how the first came looked after doing the hood. 

Needless to say, I went through a few pads today and that is why it nice to a good inventory on hand.  Normally, I plan on 3 or 4 pads for a vehicle and as small as this one is, I was pretty sure 2 pads were going to be plenty, 6 pads later...   The Orange pads did was I wanted to them to and once I completed with the 240z with the Correcting Polish and Orange pads, I did only use 2 White pads with the Finishing Polish.

I had a few spots where some additional touch ups were needed so I finally got to try the new Scratch and Swirl Remover, https://adamspolishes.com/collections/exterior-polishing-liquids/products/adams-scratch-swirl-remover and it worked exceptionally well, so I also tried the new Hand Polish https://adamspolishes.com/collections/exterior-polishing-liquids/products/adam-s-revive-fine-hand-car-polish and given how much I loved Revive Hand Polish, I must say I'm real happy with the new formula.
 
 
Once the vehicle was completed, I went over it with Surface Prep to get everything off and then put down Ceramic Paste Wax on it.  While I considered doing a Ceramic Coating, I didn't think it would add to the resale value.  The owner is very happy with the results so far and hopefully the weather is be more cooperative on Friday so I get it outside and go over the tires with tire shine to get them up to the level of the rest of the vehicle.
 
 

Super old thread looks like, but im new to the game and maybe we can bring it back

Hey everyone, we launched 3 new products today and an update on a current formula! Adam's Interior Detailer with Microban Cedarwood Scent, Adam's Enzymatic Cleaner, Adam's Stainless Steel Cleaner, and an update to Adam's Glass Cleaner - now with a small amount of sealant protection added, similar to the Glass Sealant and the Part B Glass Coating Wipes!



You can check them all out HERE: https://adamspolishes.com/collections/new-just-in

Thanks for looking! We hope you enjoy these new products! 

Alright, let me set the stage for this one.  First off, I am by no means a professional detailer.  Prior to the last 5 months or so, I did not know anything about Adams products nor did I have any "arsenal" of products or materials.  I got started with Adams off of a post that a friend of mine liked on Instagram.  The videos intrigued me.  So I started lurking on the forums and watching videos and dipped my toe in with a mystery bucket.  That was all it took.  Now here I am, showing you what this stuff can do, and if I can do it, anyone can do it.  I don't have any polishers or any special machines, I just took a great deal of time and enjoyed working this project with my truck.  So here we go.  Oh and here is a before picture of my truck just before I started to work on it.

 
I have already posted another thread on my Interior detail and engine bay cleaning.  I started by completing those first. 
For the exterior cleaning I started with the Wheels, Tires, Wheel wells and Exhaust Tips.  Products and Materials Used:
Wheel Cleaner Tire and Rubber Cleaner ECO APC Car Shampoo Tire Brush Fender Brush Wheel Woolie Wheel Brush Lug Nut Brush Bucket of Clean Water w/ Grit Guard Tote of microfiber towels (I used the edgeless utility for any wipedown)
I started by getting my bucket half full of clean water and I added a bit of CS to it.  Here is where I kept all my brushes to be used.  I worked each wheel entirely before moving on to the next wheel.  On each wheel I would start by completely hosing down the wheel and well, removing as much dirt and grime as I could with water alone.  Then I started with the Wheel well, spraying it down with the ECO APC and using my Fender Brush that was soaking in the sudsy CS water, I would shake the excess in the bucket, then spray the brush with ECO APC and work the whole Wheel Well.  I then moved on to the tire and sprayed it down with the TRC and repeated the same steps with the Tire brush by shaking off the excess CS water and spraying the brush with a plug or 2 of TRC and working that tire.  Then lastly I used what I considered to be the most agressive product in the Wheel Cleaner and sprayed the barrels of the wheel and face really well, using the wheel woolie I scrubbed the barrels, man this is a tool that I would definitely suggest having, NO SCRAPED UP KNUCKLES!  Then I used the Wheel brush to clean off the remaining face of the wheel and finally I used the lug nut brush to clean all the spots that were hard to reach.  Now, the lug nut brush also in my opinion is crucial here.  There were spots inside the rim that did not scrub clean with the woolie that I was able to get with the lug nut brush and the same on the face of the wheel.  Highly recommended to have this guy handy.  I then sprayed down each wheel completely with water and inspected.  If there was a spot to be revisited, I did that at this time.  Now, as I used each of these tools I would give them a quick spray with the hose then scrub them on the grit guard in my bucket and let them sit there until the next wheel.  After all 4 wheels were complete I cleaned the exhaust tips with a spray or 2 of ECO APC and the wheel woolie and lug nut brush.
 
After completing all the wheels and exhaust tips, I knew I was about to wash the whole exterior, so I took this time to use the TRC and Utility Microfiber towels and clean all the oxidation I could from the rubber trim and other trim around my truck.  I would just spray into a spot on the towel and work each trim piece until that part of the towel was soiled, then rotate the spot on the towel and repeat.
 
Next I moved on to the first wash in my decontamination process.  First I prepped the area by cleaning out my wheel bucket, spraying out those tools and hanging them to dry and setting all those chemicals aside.  Next I gathered all the materials and tools for the First Strip Wash:
2 clean buckets w/ 2 clean grit guards 2 wash pads 1 microfiber Wash Mitt ( in case the pad was not aggressive enough) Adams Step Ladder Bug Remover Strip Wash Foam Cannon Pressure Washer Iron Remover

I started here by prepping all my chemicals and tools.  I mixed about 4oz of Strip wash in my Foam Cannon and set it aside.  I then followed the prep for the 2 bucket wash by filling a bucket with clean water and Grit Guard and my wash bucket with Clean water, a bit of Strip Wash and my wash pads with a squirt of Strip wash on each of them and foamed them up.  Now that I'm ready I used my pressure washer on a very mild pressure and went over the whole vehicle blasting off any bugs or obvious stuck on grime and junk.  Next I followed the method Adam used in his presentation video for the bug remover and sprayed down the grill, mirrors and windshield with the bug remover and let it sit while I hooked up my foam cannon to the pressure washer. Here is the link to the product page which is the only place I have found this video.
https://adamspolishes.com/collections/car-washing-products-best-car-shampoo/products/adams-bug-remover
I started from the back and foamed the whole truck leaving the areas where I had bug remover soaking for the very last bit of foaming, this way they got the most exposure to the bug remover and now have a mix of bug remover and strip wash on them!  TAKE THAT BUGS!!!    The hardest part of washing this truck for me is reaching every spot adequately, so I used my long Adams Step ladder and started from the roof and again followed around the vehicle leaving the Grill windshield and mirrors for last.  I'm gonna tell ya, it was pretty easy removing those bugs, and there were a lot on there.  I wish I had taken a better close up shot before and after.  I'm sold on this one.  Bug Remover will stay in my Arsenal!  Plus it smells good!  Now that the washing is done I Rinse from here.  Now, I did my rinse with my regular hose that has a multi-sprayer on it so I could control and switch from a shower spray to a stream spray if necessary.  I just personally find that easier to accomplish what I'm trying to do.  After a complete rinse, I did not dry, I worked around the vehicle with the Iron Remover panel or 2 at a time, spraying the panels, letting it sit for a couple minutes and then hosing off.  I worked in smaller sections because the wind was mildly blowing and I didn't want the stuff to dry on the truck as there are multiple warnings about letting it dry.  Now, my truck is black, so it was really hard for me to see anything happening until I actually washed it off and I could see a purple haze to the water coming off.  I pretty much used the entire bottle of this stuff on my truck, there was a little left but not enough to complete another vehicle, probably a 4th of the bottle left or less.
 
Next up was the Clay Decontamination.  For this step I had personally gone back and forth on how I wanted to complete this step.  Originally, I was going to mix up a bottle of CS diluted down and use that as my clay lube.  My thoughts were to have a lubricant that would not leave behind any protective properties since I was actively stripping that off.  Then, I had some discussion with @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin off forum about potentially just foaming each section of the vehicle that i was going to clay ensuring that I would have the lubricity there.  All in all, with the mild wind coupled with the hassle of grabbing my pressure washer each time I wanted to clay a new section, I abandoned that thought all together and just used Detail Spray.  I was able to control that and work at a steady pace and also work indoors in my garage.  Shout out to @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin for all the great detailing conversation on and off the forum!  Much appreciated!
Here are the tools I used for the Clay Decontamination:
Visco Clay Kit 1 Refill Visco Clay in case I dropped the one I was using 2 Bottles of Detail Spray Step Ladder This part of the process was brand new to me altogether.  I have never clayed a vehicle before and let me tell you, it was easier than I anticipated and very satisfying!  It is very hard to describe the feel of the process but you can "feel" what you need to clay a little more and what is done.  I really like the visco clay bar kit.  The Geo-Impression tool not only helps to mold the clay so it will pick up the contamination better, but it acts as a handle kind of and it feels good in your hands and it is very easy to hold on to.  I worked 1 panel at a time here in the garage spraying the panel with DS and then 1 shot of DS on my clay each time I started a new section or anytime it seemed like it wasn't slick and again, you can feel that.  I honestly thought I wouldn't see much on my truck because its in pretty good shape and stays in the garage when I'm not driving it, but man, there was a good bit on there and I used up the entire clay bar on the whole vehicle.  The way I approached this was kind of how I did washing the vehicle.  I did the panels that I thought were the least soiled first and left my grill and wheels for last, that way if I was picking up big bits of bug remnants or anything I was not doing that first, but rather towards the end of the clay procedure.  I made it a point also to feel the panel with my hand before and after claying.

 
Next I did a Clean Up Wash:
2 clean buckets w/ 2 clean grit guards 2 wash pads Adams Step Ladder Strip Wash Foam Cannon Pressure Washer Great White Drying Towel Accessory Drying Towel This was pretty straight forward.  Before Starting I made sure my 2 previous wash buckets were emptied and cleaned out and sprayed out with the hose as well as the wash pads thoroughly cleaned up.  I still had about a half a bottle of the strip wash from the first wash so that is what I used to foam the vehicle.  I foamed the truck and washed it top down and then rinsed with the hose thoroughly.  Since I was not going any further at the time I chose to go ahead and dry off the vehicle.  So once it was rinsed I pulled in the garage and used my GW Drying Towel to get all the big panels and then the Accessory Drying Towel for spot checking and cleaning up drips.  I did not use any form of compressed air.  In the future I will probably invest in the sidekick and this step would have probably been way easier.

Next step I took was to Polish the Truck:
Venom Gloves Revive Hand Polish Blue Hex Grip Applicator Single Soft Microfiber Towels Step Ladder Respirator
I'll be honest.  I was not going to do this step when I first started buying the tools for Ceramic Coating.  I don't own a polisher, really didn't want to make that investment right now, and have zero experience with polishing.  However, I am so glad that I took this step.  I used the least possible aggressive method by hand polishing and using Revive, but I'm telling you, it made a great deal of difference in the shine of my Clear/Paint.  I started this step with much skepticism, and ended thinking about buying a polisher and learning how to do it better.  This step took me the better half of a day to complete.  I really took my time and really focused on what I was doing and tried not to make it a chore.  I put a couple JRE podcasts on to listen to and took many breaks throughout the process.  I made sure I had comfortable seating (That Adams Rolling Detail Chair is in my future BTW  ), I took the globes off the lights in my garage to ensure I had the maximum amount of lighting and I had several LED Flashlights at my disposal to check the paint and polishing.  It took me a good bit to get the amount of polish right, there were a couple times I put too much, and in that case I just polished a bigger section and primed the pad with DS for the next bit until the polish got thin before I put more on.  After finishing this step I went ahead and cleaned up this pad with some APC and set it aside to dry.  Just polishing made a noticeable difference.
 
And here we are folks....I did all that for this moment!  It was pretty dadgum exciting!  Now is the time for the Surface Prep and Ceramic Spray Coating:
Venom Gloves Respirator Adams Surface Prep Spray Single Soft Microfiber Towels Step Ladder Microfiber Applicators Suede Removal Towels
A couple things I want to mention.  The Gloves are a must for both polishing and coating.  There is no way not to get any of this on your hands.  I had originally purchased a pair of gloves off the Adams site, but I found these Venom Gloves at Lowe's when I got my cool flow disposable respirators and I really like them.  They are very comfortable and my hands didn't sweat in them like they normally do in gloves.  I went through about 12 pairs in this whole process because I would throw them out anytime I stopped and took a break or moved to a different process.  I also highly recommend the Adams Surface Prep Spray.  I know you can mix your own but this spray was easy to use and cleaned the area well.  I could see in the Single Soft Towels where it was blue when I prepped some panels because I had not completely removed all the polish.  To my naked eye it looked as if I had, but the prep spray saw it differently  .  
 
I only took a portion of a panel at a time to complete this process.  I wanted to make sure that I was cleaning, coating and removing all before moving on.  I would prep the entire panel first and then I would coat a section around 2 x 2, let it flash, then use the suede removal towels to buff off the oils.  These suede towels are another thing that I was NOT going to use originally but I'm so glad I did.  They really made removal and buffing of the CSC easy.  I coated the entire vehicle including the wheels.  I took the advice of @falcaineer and I did not level any of the CSC that I put on the plastic trim.  Speaking of the trim, I used the small suede applicators that come in the CSC kit to apply it to my trim and wheels, all of the other areas I used the microfiber applicators.  I used 5 of the microfiber applicators in total in the process, I found that after using them for a couple panels they would start to leave a fuzz behind, so I just threw that one away and picked up a fresh one.  When removing the excess oils, ANGLES, ANGLES, ANGLES!  Although I had great lighting at my disposal, I would look at the panel from 3 different directions and usually I would find at least 1 spot I missed somehow.  Once I was completely finished, I then let it sit about 12 to 16 hours in the garage before moving on to the final steps. 
 
Ceramic Boost, Undercarriage Spray and Tire Dressing:
Ceramic Boost Double soft Microfiber towels Single Soft Microfiber Towels Microfiber Utility Towel Undercarriage Spray Tire Shine Black Hex Grip Applicator Block Applicator Cardboard cut to fit around wheels Venom Gloves This was the final steps in the whole process for me.  I addressed the undercarriage and Tires first so that I could clean up any overspray or dripping before boosting the wheels.  I took old Adams boxes (I saved them for this purpose) and deconstructed them to fit all the way around each tire.  I then worked each tire and wheel well like I would on the cleaning process one at a time, outside in.  I sprayed the undercarriage spray in the wheel well, then I used a piece of cardboard flexed into an arc (pic below) and sprayed the tire shine into the tread block all the way around the tire.  I used the hex grip applicator to level out the shine all around the tire.  My tires have the small grooves all the way around the tire and the hex grip applicator does good at helping to get the TS in all of those grooves.  Instead of wiping in a circle I would wipe from the rim outward to the tread block, then last wipe would be circular around the tire.  I let all of this set while I moved on to the ceramic boosting.  I changed my gloves and started from the top again and applied the Ceramic Boost sprayed directly on the panel and wiped down with a Double Soft Towel.  This is actually the only time that I use the premium towel during the Ceramic stages.  All other applicators/removal tools were the suede towels or microfiber applicators that got tossed away after use.  I'm not sure how to tell if the Boost I have is the 2.0 or not but it sure did seem to wipe up well.  I tried to find any indication on the bottle and I couldn't, but it is in the new Grey label style bottle so I'm assuming it is the 2.0.  I boosted the entire vehicle top to bottom.  I then addressed the wheels and tires again.  I changed my gloves and using a block applicator knocked down any streaking on the undercarriage spray, using Edgeless utility towel I cleaned up any overspray or dripping on the wheel itself.  I changed my gloves again and applied Ceramic boost to the rims. 


 
At this point I stepped back and really admired how far this truck had come from what it was.  I really thought it looked good before, but now it looks outstanding!  I would encourage anyone even thinking about doing this to try it.  Don't be stingy though and don't cut corners and listen to the advice of the professionals that are on this forum and those who have done it over and over.  They certainly helped me and that advice modified what I ended up doing by about 10 or 12 times!  I wouldn't omit anything that I did at this point, only add steps.  I hope this was enjoyable to read and I hope this helps someone else and I can give back to this community the way it has given to me!  Thanks for reading!

 
 

Mo rain in Georgia! 
 

Alright, let me set the stage for this one.  First off, I am by no means a professional detailer.  Prior to the last 5 months or so, I did not know anything about Adams products nor did I have any "arsenal" of products or materials.  I got started with Adams off of a post that a friend of mine liked on Instagram.  The videos intrigued me.  So I started lurking on the forums and watching videos and dipped my toe in with a mystery bucket.  That was all it took.  Now here I am, showing you what this stuff can do, and if I can do it, anyone can do it.  I don't have any polishers or any special machines, I just took a great deal of time and enjoyed working this project with my truck.  So here we go.  Oh and here is a before picture of my truck just before I started to work on it.

 
I have already posted another thread on my Interior detail and engine bay cleaning.  I started by completing those first. 
For the exterior cleaning I started with the Wheels, Tires, Wheel wells and Exhaust Tips.  Products and Materials Used:
Wheel Cleaner Tire and Rubber Cleaner ECO APC Car Shampoo Tire Brush Fender Brush Wheel Woolie Wheel Brush Lug Nut Brush Bucket of Clean Water w/ Grit Guard Tote of microfiber towels (I used the edgeless utility for any wipedown)
I started by getting my bucket half full of clean water and I added a bit of CS to it.  Here is where I kept all my brushes to be used.  I worked each wheel entirely before moving on to the next wheel.  On each wheel I would start by completely hosing down the wheel and well, removing as much dirt and grime as I could with water alone.  Then I started with the Wheel well, spraying it down with the ECO APC and using my Fender Brush that was soaking in the sudsy CS water, I would shake the excess in the bucket, then spray the brush with ECO APC and work the whole Wheel Well.  I then moved on to the tire and sprayed it down with the TRC and repeated the same steps with the Tire brush by shaking off the excess CS water and spraying the brush with a plug or 2 of TRC and working that tire.  Then lastly I used what I considered to be the most agressive product in the Wheel Cleaner and sprayed the barrels of the wheel and face really well, using the wheel woolie I scrubbed the barrels, man this is a tool that I would definitely suggest having, NO SCRAPED UP KNUCKLES!  Then I used the Wheel brush to clean off the remaining face of the wheel and finally I used the lug nut brush to clean all the spots that were hard to reach.  Now, the lug nut brush also in my opinion is crucial here.  There were spots inside the rim that did not scrub clean with the woolie that I was able to get with the lug nut brush and the same on the face of the wheel.  Highly recommended to have this guy handy.  I then sprayed down each wheel completely with water and inspected.  If there was a spot to be revisited, I did that at this time.  Now, as I used each of these tools I would give them a quick spray with the hose then scrub them on the grit guard in my bucket and let them sit there until the next wheel.  After all 4 wheels were complete I cleaned the exhaust tips with a spray or 2 of ECO APC and the wheel woolie and lug nut brush.
 
After completing all the wheels and exhaust tips, I knew I was about to wash the whole exterior, so I took this time to use the TRC and Utility Microfiber towels and clean all the oxidation I could from the rubber trim and other trim around my truck.  I would just spray into a spot on the towel and work each trim piece until that part of the towel was soiled, then rotate the spot on the towel and repeat.
 
Next I moved on to the first wash in my decontamination process.  First I prepped the area by cleaning out my wheel bucket, spraying out those tools and hanging them to dry and setting all those chemicals aside.  Next I gathered all the materials and tools for the First Strip Wash:
2 clean buckets w/ 2 clean grit guards 2 wash pads 1 microfiber Wash Mitt ( in case the pad was not aggressive enough) Adams Step Ladder Bug Remover Strip Wash Foam Cannon Pressure Washer Iron Remover

I started here by prepping all my chemicals and tools.  I mixed about 4oz of Strip wash in my Foam Cannon and set it aside.  I then followed the prep for the 2 bucket wash by filling a bucket with clean water and Grit Guard and my wash bucket with Clean water, a bit of Strip Wash and my wash pads with a squirt of Strip wash on each of them and foamed them up.  Now that I'm ready I used my pressure washer on a very mild pressure and went over the whole vehicle blasting off any bugs or obvious stuck on grime and junk.  Next I followed the method Adam used in his presentation video for the bug remover and sprayed down the grill, mirrors and windshield with the bug remover and let it sit while I hooked up my foam cannon to the pressure washer. Here is the link to the product page which is the only place I have found this video.
https://adamspolishes.com/collections/car-washing-products-best-car-shampoo/products/adams-bug-remover
I started from the back and foamed the whole truck leaving the areas where I had bug remover soaking for the very last bit of foaming, this way they got the most exposure to the bug remover and now have a mix of bug remover and strip wash on them!  TAKE THAT BUGS!!!    The hardest part of washing this truck for me is reaching every spot adequately, so I used my long Adams Step ladder and started from the roof and again followed around the vehicle leaving the Grill windshield and mirrors for last.  I'm gonna tell ya, it was pretty easy removing those bugs, and there were a lot on there.  I wish I had taken a better close up shot before and after.  I'm sold on this one.  Bug Remover will stay in my Arsenal!  Plus it smells good!  Now that the washing is done I Rinse from here.  Now, I did my rinse with my regular hose that has a multi-sprayer on it so I could control and switch from a shower spray to a stream spray if necessary.  I just personally find that easier to accomplish what I'm trying to do.  After a complete rinse, I did not dry, I worked around the vehicle with the Iron Remover panel or 2 at a time, spraying the panels, letting it sit for a couple minutes and then hosing off.  I worked in smaller sections because the wind was mildly blowing and I didn't want the stuff to dry on the truck as there are multiple warnings about letting it dry.  Now, my truck is black, so it was really hard for me to see anything happening until I actually washed it off and I could see a purple haze to the water coming off.  I pretty much used the entire bottle of this stuff on my truck, there was a little left but not enough to complete another vehicle, probably a 4th of the bottle left or less.
 
Next up was the Clay Decontamination.  For this step I had personally gone back and forth on how I wanted to complete this step.  Originally, I was going to mix up a bottle of CS diluted down and use that as my clay lube.  My thoughts were to have a lubricant that would not leave behind any protective properties since I was actively stripping that off.  Then, I had some discussion with @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin off forum about potentially just foaming each section of the vehicle that i was going to clay ensuring that I would have the lubricity there.  All in all, with the mild wind coupled with the hassle of grabbing my pressure washer each time I wanted to clay a new section, I abandoned that thought all together and just used Detail Spray.  I was able to control that and work at a steady pace and also work indoors in my garage.  Shout out to @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin for all the great detailing conversation on and off the forum!  Much appreciated!
Here are the tools I used for the Clay Decontamination:
Visco Clay Kit 1 Refill Visco Clay in case I dropped the one I was using 2 Bottles of Detail Spray Step Ladder This part of the process was brand new to me altogether.  I have never clayed a vehicle before and let me tell you, it was easier than I anticipated and very satisfying!  It is very hard to describe the feel of the process but you can "feel" what you need to clay a little more and what is done.  I really like the visco clay bar kit.  The Geo-Impression tool not only helps to mold the clay so it will pick up the contamination better, but it acts as a handle kind of and it feels good in your hands and it is very easy to hold on to.  I worked 1 panel at a time here in the garage spraying the panel with DS and then 1 shot of DS on my clay each time I started a new section or anytime it seemed like it wasn't slick and again, you can feel that.  I honestly thought I wouldn't see much on my truck because its in pretty good shape and stays in the garage when I'm not driving it, but man, there was a good bit on there and I used up the entire clay bar on the whole vehicle.  The way I approached this was kind of how I did washing the vehicle.  I did the panels that I thought were the least soiled first and left my grill and wheels for last, that way if I was picking up big bits of bug remnants or anything I was not doing that first, but rather towards the end of the clay procedure.  I made it a point also to feel the panel with my hand before and after claying.

 
Next I did a Clean Up Wash:
2 clean buckets w/ 2 clean grit guards 2 wash pads Adams Step Ladder Strip Wash Foam Cannon Pressure Washer Great White Drying Towel Accessory Drying Towel This was pretty straight forward.  Before Starting I made sure my 2 previous wash buckets were emptied and cleaned out and sprayed out with the hose as well as the wash pads thoroughly cleaned up.  I still had about a half a bottle of the strip wash from the first wash so that is what I used to foam the vehicle.  I foamed the truck and washed it top down and then rinsed with the hose thoroughly.  Since I was not going any further at the time I chose to go ahead and dry off the vehicle.  So once it was rinsed I pulled in the garage and used my GW Drying Towel to get all the big panels and then the Accessory Drying Towel for spot checking and cleaning up drips.  I did not use any form of compressed air.  In the future I will probably invest in the sidekick and this step would have probably been way easier.

Next step I took was to Polish the Truck:
Venom Gloves Revive Hand Polish Blue Hex Grip Applicator Single Soft Microfiber Towels Step Ladder Respirator
I'll be honest.  I was not going to do this step when I first started buying the tools for Ceramic Coating.  I don't own a polisher, really didn't want to make that investment right now, and have zero experience with polishing.  However, I am so glad that I took this step.  I used the least possible aggressive method by hand polishing and using Revive, but I'm telling you, it made a great deal of difference in the shine of my Clear/Paint.  I started this step with much skepticism, and ended thinking about buying a polisher and learning how to do it better.  This step took me the better half of a day to complete.  I really took my time and really focused on what I was doing and tried not to make it a chore.  I put a couple JRE podcasts on to listen to and took many breaks throughout the process.  I made sure I had comfortable seating (That Adams Rolling Detail Chair is in my future BTW  ), I took the globes off the lights in my garage to ensure I had the maximum amount of lighting and I had several LED Flashlights at my disposal to check the paint and polishing.  It took me a good bit to get the amount of polish right, there were a couple times I put too much, and in that case I just polished a bigger section and primed the pad with DS for the next bit until the polish got thin before I put more on.  After finishing this step I went ahead and cleaned up this pad with some APC and set it aside to dry.  Just polishing made a noticeable difference.
 
And here we are folks....I did all that for this moment!  It was pretty dadgum exciting!  Now is the time for the Surface Prep and Ceramic Spray Coating:
Venom Gloves Respirator Adams Surface Prep Spray Single Soft Microfiber Towels Step Ladder Microfiber Applicators Suede Removal Towels
A couple things I want to mention.  The Gloves are a must for both polishing and coating.  There is no way not to get any of this on your hands.  I had originally purchased a pair of gloves off the Adams site, but I found these Venom Gloves at Lowe's when I got my cool flow disposable respirators and I really like them.  They are very comfortable and my hands didn't sweat in them like they normally do in gloves.  I went through about 12 pairs in this whole process because I would throw them out anytime I stopped and took a break or moved to a different process.  I also highly recommend the Adams Surface Prep Spray.  I know you can mix your own but this spray was easy to use and cleaned the area well.  I could see in the Single Soft Towels where it was blue when I prepped some panels because I had not completely removed all the polish.  To my naked eye it looked as if I had, but the prep spray saw it differently  .  
 
I only took a portion of a panel at a time to complete this process.  I wanted to make sure that I was cleaning, coating and removing all before moving on.  I would prep the entire panel first and then I would coat a section around 2 x 2, let it flash, then use the suede removal towels to buff off the oils.  These suede towels are another thing that I was NOT going to use originally but I'm so glad I did.  They really made removal and buffing of the CSC easy.  I coated the entire vehicle including the wheels.  I took the advice of @falcaineer and I did not level any of the CSC that I put on the plastic trim.  Speaking of the trim, I used the small suede applicators that come in the CSC kit to apply it to my trim and wheels, all of the other areas I used the microfiber applicators.  I used 5 of the microfiber applicators in total in the process, I found that after using them for a couple panels they would start to leave a fuzz behind, so I just threw that one away and picked up a fresh one.  When removing the excess oils, ANGLES, ANGLES, ANGLES!  Although I had great lighting at my disposal, I would look at the panel from 3 different directions and usually I would find at least 1 spot I missed somehow.  Once I was completely finished, I then let it sit about 12 to 16 hours in the garage before moving on to the final steps. 
 
Ceramic Boost, Undercarriage Spray and Tire Dressing:
Ceramic Boost Double soft Microfiber towels Single Soft Microfiber Towels Microfiber Utility Towel Undercarriage Spray Tire Shine Black Hex Grip Applicator Block Applicator Cardboard cut to fit around wheels Venom Gloves This was the final steps in the whole process for me.  I addressed the undercarriage and Tires first so that I could clean up any overspray or dripping before boosting the wheels.  I took old Adams boxes (I saved them for this purpose) and deconstructed them to fit all the way around each tire.  I then worked each tire and wheel well like I would on the cleaning process one at a time, outside in.  I sprayed the undercarriage spray in the wheel well, then I used a piece of cardboard flexed into an arc (pic below) and sprayed the tire shine into the tread block all the way around the tire.  I used the hex grip applicator to level out the shine all around the tire.  My tires have the small grooves all the way around the tire and the hex grip applicator does good at helping to get the TS in all of those grooves.  Instead of wiping in a circle I would wipe from the rim outward to the tread block, then last wipe would be circular around the tire.  I let all of this set while I moved on to the ceramic boosting.  I changed my gloves and started from the top again and applied the Ceramic Boost sprayed directly on the panel and wiped down with a Double Soft Towel.  This is actually the only time that I use the premium towel during the Ceramic stages.  All other applicators/removal tools were the suede towels or microfiber applicators that got tossed away after use.  I'm not sure how to tell if the Boost I have is the 2.0 or not but it sure did seem to wipe up well.  I tried to find any indication on the bottle and I couldn't, but it is in the new Grey label style bottle so I'm assuming it is the 2.0.  I boosted the entire vehicle top to bottom.  I then addressed the wheels and tires again.  I changed my gloves and using a block applicator knocked down any streaking on the undercarriage spray, using Edgeless utility towel I cleaned up any overspray or dripping on the wheel itself.  I changed my gloves again and applied Ceramic boost to the rims. 


 
At this point I stepped back and really admired how far this truck had come from what it was.  I really thought it looked good before, but now it looks outstanding!  I would encourage anyone even thinking about doing this to try it.  Don't be stingy though and don't cut corners and listen to the advice of the professionals that are on this forum and those who have done it over and over.  They certainly helped me and that advice modified what I ended up doing by about 10 or 12 times!  I wouldn't omit anything that I did at this point, only add steps.  I hope this was enjoyable to read and I hope this helps someone else and I can give back to this community the way it has given to me!  Thanks for reading!

 
 

Thats good to hear, once the csc wears off id recommend going with their ceramic coating. The process is the same as you did and a polisher would make quick work of any light polishing that would be needed. Especially since you would want to exfoliate the clear coat prior to coating but at least you'll be good for a few years and reap the benefits. Since you do have some type of ceramic on there id also recommend getting a bottle of CS3, that product is fantastic for everything it is. I mainly use it as a ceramic detailer, the gloss is awesome from it and provides great protection. 

Employees and moderators are excluded from all contests 😎
 
Thank you for everything you do Chris!

My favorite of this thread!   

Hand Sanitizer FTW!!!  Got 2 bottles in the mail this week....along with my mystery bucket.... 
 
Great job supporting the community and first responders as well!  Much appreciated!
 
 

Alright, let me set the stage for this one.  First off, I am by no means a professional detailer.  Prior to the last 5 months or so, I did not know anything about Adams products nor did I have any "arsenal" of products or materials.  I got started with Adams off of a post that a friend of mine liked on Instagram.  The videos intrigued me.  So I started lurking on the forums and watching videos and dipped my toe in with a mystery bucket.  That was all it took.  Now here I am, showing you what this stuff can do, and if I can do it, anyone can do it.  I don't have any polishers or any special machines, I just took a great deal of time and enjoyed working this project with my truck.  So here we go.  Oh and here is a before picture of my truck just before I started to work on it.

 
I have already posted another thread on my Interior detail and engine bay cleaning.  I started by completing those first. 
For the exterior cleaning I started with the Wheels, Tires, Wheel wells and Exhaust Tips.  Products and Materials Used:
Wheel Cleaner Tire and Rubber Cleaner ECO APC Car Shampoo Tire Brush Fender Brush Wheel Woolie Wheel Brush Lug Nut Brush Bucket of Clean Water w/ Grit Guard Tote of microfiber towels (I used the edgeless utility for any wipedown)
I started by getting my bucket half full of clean water and I added a bit of CS to it.  Here is where I kept all my brushes to be used.  I worked each wheel entirely before moving on to the next wheel.  On each wheel I would start by completely hosing down the wheel and well, removing as much dirt and grime as I could with water alone.  Then I started with the Wheel well, spraying it down with the ECO APC and using my Fender Brush that was soaking in the sudsy CS water, I would shake the excess in the bucket, then spray the brush with ECO APC and work the whole Wheel Well.  I then moved on to the tire and sprayed it down with the TRC and repeated the same steps with the Tire brush by shaking off the excess CS water and spraying the brush with a plug or 2 of TRC and working that tire.  Then lastly I used what I considered to be the most agressive product in the Wheel Cleaner and sprayed the barrels of the wheel and face really well, using the wheel woolie I scrubbed the barrels, man this is a tool that I would definitely suggest having, NO SCRAPED UP KNUCKLES!  Then I used the Wheel brush to clean off the remaining face of the wheel and finally I used the lug nut brush to clean all the spots that were hard to reach.  Now, the lug nut brush also in my opinion is crucial here.  There were spots inside the rim that did not scrub clean with the woolie that I was able to get with the lug nut brush and the same on the face of the wheel.  Highly recommended to have this guy handy.  I then sprayed down each wheel completely with water and inspected.  If there was a spot to be revisited, I did that at this time.  Now, as I used each of these tools I would give them a quick spray with the hose then scrub them on the grit guard in my bucket and let them sit there until the next wheel.  After all 4 wheels were complete I cleaned the exhaust tips with a spray or 2 of ECO APC and the wheel woolie and lug nut brush.
 
After completing all the wheels and exhaust tips, I knew I was about to wash the whole exterior, so I took this time to use the TRC and Utility Microfiber towels and clean all the oxidation I could from the rubber trim and other trim around my truck.  I would just spray into a spot on the towel and work each trim piece until that part of the towel was soiled, then rotate the spot on the towel and repeat.
 
Next I moved on to the first wash in my decontamination process.  First I prepped the area by cleaning out my wheel bucket, spraying out those tools and hanging them to dry and setting all those chemicals aside.  Next I gathered all the materials and tools for the First Strip Wash:
2 clean buckets w/ 2 clean grit guards 2 wash pads 1 microfiber Wash Mitt ( in case the pad was not aggressive enough) Adams Step Ladder Bug Remover Strip Wash Foam Cannon Pressure Washer Iron Remover

I started here by prepping all my chemicals and tools.  I mixed about 4oz of Strip wash in my Foam Cannon and set it aside.  I then followed the prep for the 2 bucket wash by filling a bucket with clean water and Grit Guard and my wash bucket with Clean water, a bit of Strip Wash and my wash pads with a squirt of Strip wash on each of them and foamed them up.  Now that I'm ready I used my pressure washer on a very mild pressure and went over the whole vehicle blasting off any bugs or obvious stuck on grime and junk.  Next I followed the method Adam used in his presentation video for the bug remover and sprayed down the grill, mirrors and windshield with the bug remover and let it sit while I hooked up my foam cannon to the pressure washer. Here is the link to the product page which is the only place I have found this video.
https://adamspolishes.com/collections/car-washing-products-best-car-shampoo/products/adams-bug-remover
I started from the back and foamed the whole truck leaving the areas where I had bug remover soaking for the very last bit of foaming, this way they got the most exposure to the bug remover and now have a mix of bug remover and strip wash on them!  TAKE THAT BUGS!!!    The hardest part of washing this truck for me is reaching every spot adequately, so I used my long Adams Step ladder and started from the roof and again followed around the vehicle leaving the Grill windshield and mirrors for last.  I'm gonna tell ya, it was pretty easy removing those bugs, and there were a lot on there.  I wish I had taken a better close up shot before and after.  I'm sold on this one.  Bug Remover will stay in my Arsenal!  Plus it smells good!  Now that the washing is done I Rinse from here.  Now, I did my rinse with my regular hose that has a multi-sprayer on it so I could control and switch from a shower spray to a stream spray if necessary.  I just personally find that easier to accomplish what I'm trying to do.  After a complete rinse, I did not dry, I worked around the vehicle with the Iron Remover panel or 2 at a time, spraying the panels, letting it sit for a couple minutes and then hosing off.  I worked in smaller sections because the wind was mildly blowing and I didn't want the stuff to dry on the truck as there are multiple warnings about letting it dry.  Now, my truck is black, so it was really hard for me to see anything happening until I actually washed it off and I could see a purple haze to the water coming off.  I pretty much used the entire bottle of this stuff on my truck, there was a little left but not enough to complete another vehicle, probably a 4th of the bottle left or less.
 
Next up was the Clay Decontamination.  For this step I had personally gone back and forth on how I wanted to complete this step.  Originally, I was going to mix up a bottle of CS diluted down and use that as my clay lube.  My thoughts were to have a lubricant that would not leave behind any protective properties since I was actively stripping that off.  Then, I had some discussion with @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin off forum about potentially just foaming each section of the vehicle that i was going to clay ensuring that I would have the lubricity there.  All in all, with the mild wind coupled with the hassle of grabbing my pressure washer each time I wanted to clay a new section, I abandoned that thought all together and just used Detail Spray.  I was able to control that and work at a steady pace and also work indoors in my garage.  Shout out to @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin for all the great detailing conversation on and off the forum!  Much appreciated!
Here are the tools I used for the Clay Decontamination:
Visco Clay Kit 1 Refill Visco Clay in case I dropped the one I was using 2 Bottles of Detail Spray Step Ladder This part of the process was brand new to me altogether.  I have never clayed a vehicle before and let me tell you, it was easier than I anticipated and very satisfying!  It is very hard to describe the feel of the process but you can "feel" what you need to clay a little more and what is done.  I really like the visco clay bar kit.  The Geo-Impression tool not only helps to mold the clay so it will pick up the contamination better, but it acts as a handle kind of and it feels good in your hands and it is very easy to hold on to.  I worked 1 panel at a time here in the garage spraying the panel with DS and then 1 shot of DS on my clay each time I started a new section or anytime it seemed like it wasn't slick and again, you can feel that.  I honestly thought I wouldn't see much on my truck because its in pretty good shape and stays in the garage when I'm not driving it, but man, there was a good bit on there and I used up the entire clay bar on the whole vehicle.  The way I approached this was kind of how I did washing the vehicle.  I did the panels that I thought were the least soiled first and left my grill and wheels for last, that way if I was picking up big bits of bug remnants or anything I was not doing that first, but rather towards the end of the clay procedure.  I made it a point also to feel the panel with my hand before and after claying.

 
Next I did a Clean Up Wash:
2 clean buckets w/ 2 clean grit guards 2 wash pads Adams Step Ladder Strip Wash Foam Cannon Pressure Washer Great White Drying Towel Accessory Drying Towel This was pretty straight forward.  Before Starting I made sure my 2 previous wash buckets were emptied and cleaned out and sprayed out with the hose as well as the wash pads thoroughly cleaned up.  I still had about a half a bottle of the strip wash from the first wash so that is what I used to foam the vehicle.  I foamed the truck and washed it top down and then rinsed with the hose thoroughly.  Since I was not going any further at the time I chose to go ahead and dry off the vehicle.  So once it was rinsed I pulled in the garage and used my GW Drying Towel to get all the big panels and then the Accessory Drying Towel for spot checking and cleaning up drips.  I did not use any form of compressed air.  In the future I will probably invest in the sidekick and this step would have probably been way easier.

Next step I took was to Polish the Truck:
Venom Gloves Revive Hand Polish Blue Hex Grip Applicator Single Soft Microfiber Towels Step Ladder Respirator
I'll be honest.  I was not going to do this step when I first started buying the tools for Ceramic Coating.  I don't own a polisher, really didn't want to make that investment right now, and have zero experience with polishing.  However, I am so glad that I took this step.  I used the least possible aggressive method by hand polishing and using Revive, but I'm telling you, it made a great deal of difference in the shine of my Clear/Paint.  I started this step with much skepticism, and ended thinking about buying a polisher and learning how to do it better.  This step took me the better half of a day to complete.  I really took my time and really focused on what I was doing and tried not to make it a chore.  I put a couple JRE podcasts on to listen to and took many breaks throughout the process.  I made sure I had comfortable seating (That Adams Rolling Detail Chair is in my future BTW  ), I took the globes off the lights in my garage to ensure I had the maximum amount of lighting and I had several LED Flashlights at my disposal to check the paint and polishing.  It took me a good bit to get the amount of polish right, there were a couple times I put too much, and in that case I just polished a bigger section and primed the pad with DS for the next bit until the polish got thin before I put more on.  After finishing this step I went ahead and cleaned up this pad with some APC and set it aside to dry.  Just polishing made a noticeable difference.
 
And here we are folks....I did all that for this moment!  It was pretty dadgum exciting!  Now is the time for the Surface Prep and Ceramic Spray Coating:
Venom Gloves Respirator Adams Surface Prep Spray Single Soft Microfiber Towels Step Ladder Microfiber Applicators Suede Removal Towels
A couple things I want to mention.  The Gloves are a must for both polishing and coating.  There is no way not to get any of this on your hands.  I had originally purchased a pair of gloves off the Adams site, but I found these Venom Gloves at Lowe's when I got my cool flow disposable respirators and I really like them.  They are very comfortable and my hands didn't sweat in them like they normally do in gloves.  I went through about 12 pairs in this whole process because I would throw them out anytime I stopped and took a break or moved to a different process.  I also highly recommend the Adams Surface Prep Spray.  I know you can mix your own but this spray was easy to use and cleaned the area well.  I could see in the Single Soft Towels where it was blue when I prepped some panels because I had not completely removed all the polish.  To my naked eye it looked as if I had, but the prep spray saw it differently  .  
 
I only took a portion of a panel at a time to complete this process.  I wanted to make sure that I was cleaning, coating and removing all before moving on.  I would prep the entire panel first and then I would coat a section around 2 x 2, let it flash, then use the suede removal towels to buff off the oils.  These suede towels are another thing that I was NOT going to use originally but I'm so glad I did.  They really made removal and buffing of the CSC easy.  I coated the entire vehicle including the wheels.  I took the advice of @falcaineer and I did not level any of the CSC that I put on the plastic trim.  Speaking of the trim, I used the small suede applicators that come in the CSC kit to apply it to my trim and wheels, all of the other areas I used the microfiber applicators.  I used 5 of the microfiber applicators in total in the process, I found that after using them for a couple panels they would start to leave a fuzz behind, so I just threw that one away and picked up a fresh one.  When removing the excess oils, ANGLES, ANGLES, ANGLES!  Although I had great lighting at my disposal, I would look at the panel from 3 different directions and usually I would find at least 1 spot I missed somehow.  Once I was completely finished, I then let it sit about 12 to 16 hours in the garage before moving on to the final steps. 
 
Ceramic Boost, Undercarriage Spray and Tire Dressing:
Ceramic Boost Double soft Microfiber towels Single Soft Microfiber Towels Microfiber Utility Towel Undercarriage Spray Tire Shine Black Hex Grip Applicator Block Applicator Cardboard cut to fit around wheels Venom Gloves This was the final steps in the whole process for me.  I addressed the undercarriage and Tires first so that I could clean up any overspray or dripping before boosting the wheels.  I took old Adams boxes (I saved them for this purpose) and deconstructed them to fit all the way around each tire.  I then worked each tire and wheel well like I would on the cleaning process one at a time, outside in.  I sprayed the undercarriage spray in the wheel well, then I used a piece of cardboard flexed into an arc (pic below) and sprayed the tire shine into the tread block all the way around the tire.  I used the hex grip applicator to level out the shine all around the tire.  My tires have the small grooves all the way around the tire and the hex grip applicator does good at helping to get the TS in all of those grooves.  Instead of wiping in a circle I would wipe from the rim outward to the tread block, then last wipe would be circular around the tire.  I let all of this set while I moved on to the ceramic boosting.  I changed my gloves and started from the top again and applied the Ceramic Boost sprayed directly on the panel and wiped down with a Double Soft Towel.  This is actually the only time that I use the premium towel during the Ceramic stages.  All other applicators/removal tools were the suede towels or microfiber applicators that got tossed away after use.  I'm not sure how to tell if the Boost I have is the 2.0 or not but it sure did seem to wipe up well.  I tried to find any indication on the bottle and I couldn't, but it is in the new Grey label style bottle so I'm assuming it is the 2.0.  I boosted the entire vehicle top to bottom.  I then addressed the wheels and tires again.  I changed my gloves and using a block applicator knocked down any streaking on the undercarriage spray, using Edgeless utility towel I cleaned up any overspray or dripping on the wheel itself.  I changed my gloves again and applied Ceramic boost to the rims. 


 
At this point I stepped back and really admired how far this truck had come from what it was.  I really thought it looked good before, but now it looks outstanding!  I would encourage anyone even thinking about doing this to try it.  Don't be stingy though and don't cut corners and listen to the advice of the professionals that are on this forum and those who have done it over and over.  They certainly helped me and that advice modified what I ended up doing by about 10 or 12 times!  I wouldn't omit anything that I did at this point, only add steps.  I hope this was enjoyable to read and I hope this helps someone else and I can give back to this community the way it has given to me!  Thanks for reading!

 
 

Hi Dave, good job on the car and thanks for the details.  One question, what is that stand that you have the chrome wheel/tire sitting on?  It looks like the tire can spin, which would let us older folks sit on our stool and work the tire and rim.

With quite a bit of time on my hands right now I took care of my wife's Daily, a 2012 1LT Camaro in Ashen Gray Metallic. The Tire/Wheel swap is usually done after April 15, and the detail over Memorial Day weekend, but, well, I'm bored and now a bit ahead.
 
Broke out the Quick Jack, and removed the winter tire/wheel set up

 
I used my MTM Undercarriage Cleaning Tool, connected to my Pressure Washer to blast all the winter from under the car. Now, with the wheels off, it gave me a great opportunity to clean the inner fender wells and suspension. I lowered the car a couple years ago with a set of Pfadt Lowering Springs and it's now hard to get in the wheel wells with a brush with the Tires/Wheels on. Tire & Rubber Cleaner in a Foaming IK Sprayer, a couple different brushes and they came out about as good as new.

 
I dried everything with my Master Blaster Revolution, prepped with Surface Prep and applied a nice coat of Ceramic Spray Coating to help keep things clean.

 
Cleaned the engine bay; All Purpose Cleaner, the Pressure Washer, and the Master Blaster

 

 
Summer Tire/Wheel set up back on

 
Winter Tire/Wheels scrubbed clean, Tire Armor on the Rubber and Ceramic Spray Coating over top the previously applied Ceramic Wheel Coating. 24 hours later Ceramic Boost on the wheels, and they're now stacked in the basement until next winter.

 

 
The Weather Tech floor mats were scrubbed with Tire & Rubber Cleaner, allowed to dry, then prepped and hit with Ceramic Spray Coating and Ceramic Boost to come back looking like new.
 
On to the car...
Summer Tire/Wheel set up on and dropped her off the Quick Jack
 Mega Foam, Foam Cannon and my Pressure Washer

 
A nice two bucket wash with Car Shampoo using the Gray Microfiber Wash Mitt
Blow Dry with my Master Blaster, followed with a wipe down with Waterless Wash.
Did a baggie test, she needed Clayed. I had a small spot of rust in the left rear wheel arch taken care of in January, and evidently there was over-spray on the paint. The car has Adam's 9H Ceramic Paint Coating with the UV Tracer on it, but the fine paint dust still had stuck. Fine Grade Clay quickly took care of what was on the paint. A Rinseless Wash mixed as Waterless Wash removed the Detail Spray residue from claying.

 
I polished the left rear quarter panel, A Pillar, and C Pillar where the paint work had been done. I also had to re-polish the trunk lid. It appeared the body guy had sat something on the trunk that left some light scratches. There was also a light scuff on the right rear wheel arch that needed removed.
Tools:
SK 15mm Pro and SK Mini
Microfiber Pads
Blue Foam Pads
White Foam Pads
Compound
Polish

 
LSP, I'm trying something different, a bit of various product comparisons.
Left Rear Quarter Panel, A Pillar, C Pillar, Trunk Lid, Rear Spoiler, Side Mirrors, spot on the Right Rear Wheel Arch I repaired, and the Flat Horizontal  piece of the front bumper below the headlights got the new Ceramic Coating Wax.
The Roof, Right Side A Pillar, C Pillar and Flat surface of the Right Rear Quarter Panel got the Liquid Ceramic Wax.
The Hood, Tops of the Front Fenders, and Top of the Front Bumper got the original Version 1 of the Ceramic Paste Wax.
All the rest of the vehicle was left alone, with just the Ceramic Paint Coating applied last Fall.
 
The car was wiped down with CS3 after I pulled it out of the garage, and the wheels wiped down with Matte Detailer. The Tires have a few coats of Tire Armor on them I'd applied last Fall after I pulled them for winter storage.

 

 

The Stainless Steel exhaust Tips were taken care of with Metal Polish #2
 

 

 

 

 

 
The Interior was completely Detailed too. I wiped all hard surfaces down with the Eucalyptus Mint Interior Detailer with Microban. The Clean Cotton Odor Neutralizer was sprayed through the HVAC system and the New Fabric Protector was applied to the cloth seats.

 

took an old pump spray off another bottle I had,just happened to fit

I don't know how many bottles you made here, but it'll definitely sell out ASAP so that should be a good amount of donated bottles for people who really need it.
 
I'm just one person, but IMHO even after this pandemic has been handled this should be a permanent product. It would be nice to have access to a hand sanitizer that isn't gel and has a decent amount of alcohol in it.  

As with the other video's great job especially on spreading the word on the products Adam's has to make us all safer.  While some companies are trying to make high profits from the pandemic, it is companies like Adam's that will get the long term support for their sharing, giveaways and overall effort to the well being of everyone.

Great Job Adam's Polishes! It is great to see the community come together as we deal with this virus!

Been using the hand soap in my kitchen and also my garage slop sink, the smell reminds me of being drunk on a beach.

Congratulations!!
Yet another reason why I love this company!! Stepping up in the time of need.   

Good evening everyone! We just uploaded our fifth episode of One Take Tuesday! Sorry we missed last week - it's been incredibly busy at the office.
 
This episode will have a slightly different format, to discuss some of the new products we have shifted into our manufacturing process. Adam's Polishes had the ability to change our focus in manufacturing and created Hand Sanitizer, Home Surface Cleaner, and Hand Soap. With every two bottles sold of Hand Sanitizer, we added a third bottle to a donation pot. We were then able to donate crates and cases of Hand Sanitizer to local and national First Responders as well as Emergency Service Workers.
 
 
 
Adam's Polishes is extremely proud to show our appreciation for the Heroes on the front line during this COVID-19 situation. We are thankful for their hard work and sacrifice to keep everyone safe. From the Adam's Polishes Community we want to say, "Thank You!"
 
As with our previous One Take Tuesday Videos, anyone who comments in this thread by Midnight next Monday will be entered to win a small kit of the products in this week's video - Hand Sanitizer, Hand Soap, and Home Surface Cleaner. Only one entry per person, but feel free to comment as much as you want!
 
Once a winner is selected next week, we'll move this thread into the Detailing Library section with the other videos. For more in depth content and education, make sure to subscribe to our YouTube channel. Leave a comment or question to engage with one of our Adam's Team Members. Thanks!

Everyone needs to just relax and be patient.  Car products are great, and it's hard to wait once we've ordered and spent our money. But remember that our orders are fulfilled by people who are taking time away from their homes and families, and risking themselves for the rest of us.  
Hats off to all of the Adam's staff who are staying on the job and for their dedication.  
 
THANK YOU!!

Our valued customer,    Our team recognizes the evolving situation from COVID-19 creates uncertainty in each of our lives. Our hearts and thoughts go out to each of you as we navigate unprecedented times. While we continue to monitor, assess and respond to this situation, we will keep you in the loop in regard to any changes at Adam’s Polishes.    We wanted to provide a quick update on our commitment to continue providing products and services to our customers during this time. Additionally, we want to explain the steps we’ve taken internally to ensure the safety and health of our 120+ employees & our customers.   Our Customers   We appreciate you, our customers, and want to provide some normalcy in these troubling times. Adam likes to say detailing “is his therapy” we hope any time you can take to use our products gives you a small respite from this craziness.   At this time, our warehouse is fully operational. Our team is there for you, and we are there for them during this time. Please note, shipments may take 1-2 business days to process.   Our customer service team is available. We can be reached by email, Live Chat & by phone to discuss products & orders. We’ll even walk you through your detailing troubles if you find yourself in the garage over the next few weeks. Just holler, we’ve got you covered. Honestly, if you just want to call and chat, or talk cars, we can do that too.   We’ve shifted some of our manufacturing capacity to help provide essential products to our customers & employees. As of last week, we’re including free 12oz Hand Soap with all orders over $50 on Adam’s Polishes through March 31st, 2020. Plus, we’re giving away free bottles for a limited time, you’ll just need to cover shipping. We are also working as quickly as we can with various governing bodies to offer Home Surface Cleaning products & Hand Sanitizer. We intend to give some away starting with emergency services. Stay tuned in the coming week for more information.   Our Employees   Our employees have been there for us working hard to keep our business moving, and we will be there for them. We’re proud to support them in their critical roles like manufacturing, shipping, customer service & more.   Any employee who has the slightest sniffle or feels they have been exposed to COVID-19 in any way has been requested to stay home. Additionally, we’ve extended sick leave for employees should they need it.   Our warehouse is being sanitized daily. In addition, we’ve provided our team with best practices on hygiene and supplied plenty of Hand Sanitizer, Soap & cleaning products to maintain their health and workspace. Please note, our shipping facility is closed on Wednesdays and Saturdays to be sanitized.   We’ve provided each of our team members with free Interior Detailer with Microban® to use in our warehouse and their homes/vehicles. For more information on Microban®, click here.   All employees who are able to work from home have been instructed to do so.   We’ve embraced “social distancing” & halted all travel.    Our leadership team remains vigilant and is monitoring the situation in real time and responding rapidly as conditions evolve. If you need to reach us for anything, please contact us.   We’ll get through this together,   Email: orders@adamspolishes.com Phone: 1-877-965-0400 Online: AdamsPolishes.com

I can't wait to see the new retail area when I fly out to headquarters next month! Here are a few completed pictures from Adam and our Colorado Instagram account from last night: