Beemer

Treating the trim with VRT is a good idea. Taping it off is a better idea. You do not want to get LPS on your trim. It will come off but it takes a bit of effort.

Nothing.

Drive around the block.

I live in Texas. We have our dirt blown in from New Mexico.

Not much you can do. It's static electricity that makes the dust stick to the car. I use a grounding strap on my car in the garage and it helps a bit but it still gets dusty when it's out.

When in doubt, throw it out! (It rhymes so it must be true.)

This is SO not true..... (This statement is NOT directed at Chris but is about ideas in general.)

I know they say it's OK to let the soap dry on your paint but I never do. It's just too easy to grab the foam gun mid-wash and give it another spray-down. My water here in rural Texas is VERY hard and I just don't want to risk it. I think the soft Colorado water might act differently.

Google hates me.

I'd love to get the new Ceramic Spray!

Probably.

Most modern washing machines use a lot less water when washing a small load. You probably will use just as much water (if not more) washing by hand.

Yep. Listen to Shane. He's the man.

Here's a better order (IMHO): 1. Rinse car off. 2. Iron Remover 3. Strip Wash 4. Clay 5. Polish 6. Coating Prep 7. Coating And here's a smaller version of your sig pic. Good luck!

I applied Tire Armor to my Camaro in November. It's been over two months now. Yesterday I gave the Camaro a Rinseless Wash. First time I washed the car since November. (It was a pretty wet December here in Texas so I didn't have it out much but I put at least a couple of hundred miles on it when the weather was nice.) After the Risneless Wash I used Waterless Wash on the Wheels and Tires. Just wiped the tires down with Waterless Wash and a Utility Towel. I think they look FANTASTIC! You can see how dirty the tires were (I have a 100 yard long dirt driveway) because the treads and wheel wells are still dirty. Only wiped down the sidewalls. So - to sum up - Tire Armor works GREAT and last a long time on a garage kept, weekend driven, good weather car. Light cleanup on the tires becomes super easy. The jury is still out on the daily driver, filthy F150.

Interior Detailer will work great on your leather. Think of Interior Detailer as Detail Spray for the interior. How often on Leather Conditioner? Depends on a lot of things. Condition of the leather, how much it is used, where the car is kept, weather? I condition about twice a year on my garage kept weekender. Interior Detailer the rest of the time.

There are plenty of Adam's products that are perfect for your situation. I agree - a coating is not for everyone. I haven't made the leap either - but the spray coating is very intriguing and I'll probably give it a try in the summer. Don't feel like you have to use every Adam's product. They are broadening the product line but the more traditional waxes and sealants are still great for an ungaraged daily driver. Sometimes it can be depressing when an exciting new product comes out and it just won't work for you. Try not to take it personally and use what DOES work for you.

I think i would contact the manufacturer of the seats and see what they recommend.

I like to use the front of the towel on the front of the car and the back of the towel on the back of the car. But sometimes I switch it up just to keep things interesting.

Are they tinted? Maybe it's inside between the tint and the glass?

The problem is that most of what you're asking is subjective. There are so many variable that it's very difficult to tell someone which is "better". Either application or appearance. You said it yourself - some people HATE H2Ogg and some LOVE it. It depends on the user experience, the paint color, the paint condition, the weather, the amount of time available, preferred process, expectations, etc. Too many variables for absolutes. People on this forum are not afraid to make recommendations / suggestions and share experiences / impressions. I think that's the second best way to learn - following personal experience.

Since I started using Adam's products (about 10 years ago) the catalogue has expanded a lot. One of the things I appreciated about Adam's when I first started was the simplicity of the product line. However - Adam's has developed lots of new and improved products over the years. Many times an improved product will completely replace an old one and there is NO END of the complaining from users/fans of that product. Some times they've even offered "throw-back" versions just to please these customers - which just snowballs the product line. Most of the NEW products do not replace an existing product and thus are added to the lineup. Do you want them to discontinue Buttery Wax because Americana Paste Wax is "better"? No - give the user the choice. Sometimes the "better" product is not the "best" product for you. I think Adam's does a pretty good job explaining what each product is used for. It's really up the user to determine how it should fit in to their process - or even if it will at all. That's what these forums are good for. You'll get all kinds of opinions regarding which products will work best for each application. As an example: there is still no consensus (even among Adam's employees) regarding whether to apply Sealant before Glaze of vis versa. Your best bet is to try it yourself and see what you like. (BTW: It's been proven that the better looking detailers prefer Glaze on top of Sealant.)

I'm no expert but - in my experience - compressed air is more about PRESSURE than VOLUME. I don't think it works NEARLY as well as a Sidekick or MasterBlaster (or even a leaf blower) for drying a car,

People are idiots. Present company excluded.

Ceramic Boost would work fine on your wheels.