BKazzle

I saw this thread and knew exactly who it was about.
 
I had a funny feeling about that character with all the suspicious questions and the talking in circles.
 
I also couldn't stand the fact that he did not ever spell "advice" correctly.

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Most glass polishes are more abrasive than even the new compound. Also the Glass polishing pads are thinner to create more heat.
 
Polishing glass with a rotary is pretty much a must.

I hate driving without it now, but its always fun when someone is riding with you and has never seen water roll off like that. It starts raining a bit while on the highway and you dont turn your wipers on and they turn to you and ask when you can do this to their car.

Also remember that just because someone may say their 2003 BMW M3 in Laguna Seca Blue is hard doesn't mean that a 2003 M3 in Jet Black is also hard.
 
So my point is that from year to year, color to color and car to car a manufacturer may have different clear coat hard/soft levels.
 
Annoying? Yes, but that what makes it fun .

Also remember that just because someone may say their 2003 BMW M3 in Laguna Seca Blue is hard doesn't mean that a 2003 M3 in Jet Black is also hard.
 
So my point is that from year to year, color to color and car to car a manufacturer may have different clear coat hard/soft levels.
 
Annoying? Yes, but that what makes it fun .

The only way to tell is by workin on different cars with the same products or techniques and seeing what the difference was between them.
 
For example:
 
You use "polish A" on a Jeep Wrangler and do 3 passes. You Wipe off the residue and notice no real improvement and need to maybe increase the aggressiveness.
 
Again you use "polish A" on a Subaru and do the same 3 passes. You wipe off the residue and your paint looks perfect and don't need to do anymore steps.
 
From this example you can determine that the Subaru you worked on has a softer clear than the Jeep you worked on.
 
If you use a fine/finishing polish and you get results from it then you can determine that it may be on the softer side and if you don't get results then it may be on the harder side.

Also remember that just because someone may say their 2003 BMW M3 in Laguna Seca Blue is hard doesn't mean that a 2003 M3 in Jet Black is also hard.
 
So my point is that from year to year, color to color and car to car a manufacturer may have different clear coat hard/soft levels.
 
Annoying? Yes, but that what makes it fun .

Update:  My method of WW, IPA, and Clay is just the ticket.  I have found that the stock of towels I have been using since my first Adams order in the beginning of 2011 are now linting and need to be boiled, or sent to the minors (dirty duty).  Finally, I use MAD product when doing ANYTHING.  When I WW, I WW ladies and gentlemen.  When I clean applicators, you best believe there will be some APC flying.  Anyways, its hot in my garage, hence this update.

Depends on the dilution. At a 1:1 ratio (1 oz per gallon) it becomes a strip wash. It is LSP safe at the normal dilution of 1:4.

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I try not to use my washer fluid ever.  I keep an emergency detail kit in my car with:  MF towels, Detail Spray, Glass Cleaner, WW and APC

I first started using a rotary over 30 years ago and IMO its the best way for "Paint Correction".
Now for simple detailing a PC or Flex is fine but the rotary is still used by most of the pros.
 
Find an old bonnet and practice with it, that way if you damage it no harm done but treat it as if it a the bonnet of someone's BMW's bonnet.
 
To start off with don't buy an expensive rotary in case you don't catch on to it or dislike it.
Harbor Freight sells one, electronic for 60 bucks, very powerful and well balanced.
You can move up from that point and have a good backup.
 
Once people learn how to use a rotary they don't normally use anything else.
I have a PC that works great for the BG and SMW
 
Normally I start my rotary at 1500 RPMs to spread the polish , hit it will light spray of water, not detail spray, DS kills the cut IMO, the water aides in spreading the polish evenly.
Then I kick it up to 2000 and then back down to 1500.
Works for me.
 
Best part is no pressure is needed so it saves on your arms
Kevin
 
 
 

Just a suggestion: Do one wheel at a time.

Probably a better alternative.
 
I forgot to tell you though: I had my finger tips surgically removed and replaced with double soft MF towel.

Just a suggestion: Do one wheel at a time.

Please update this thread whenever you can and with any info you can.
 
If you can't seem to resolve this within the week, I'm going to try and get a '13 Ram in my possession. (With same color code)

Please update this thread whenever you can and with any info you can.
 
If you can't seem to resolve this within the week, I'm going to try and get a '13 Ram in my possession. (With same color code)

Please update this thread whenever you can and with any info you can.
 
If you can't seem to resolve this within the week, I'm going to try and get a '13 Ram in my possession. (With same color code)

I actually did go out and clean them.  Amazingly all I needed was soap and water.  There's still some heavy stuff left, but that needs APC and will wait until I have time to do the whole car.

Probably a better alternative.
 
I forgot to tell you though: I had my finger tips surgically removed and replaced with double soft MF towel.

Probably a better alternative.
 
I forgot to tell you though: I had my finger tips surgically removed and replaced with double soft MF towel.

He already did an IPA wipedown multiple times. This should get rid of any sealant or wax, not to mention he strip washed and clayed.
 
Mook: The polish in the video you see on the pad already is, I think him priming it. Putting polish on the pad and then spreading it around with his finger. Then he added a few small dots of polish. With this technique I don't think the shot of detail spray is necessary however.
 
I only suggested this to him because of the fear of dry buffing from the micro marring we are seeing.

For the inside of the windshield, I like to sit in the passenger seat, twist my right arm counter-clockwise and reach across my body, so my right hand is flat against the glass on the driver side and go from there. I think the steering wheel gets in your way, so that's why I stay on the passenger side.
 
I also use two glass towels; One for the product and one dry one to buff off. I like to spray the window first, but not too much and also spray the towel as well.