red94chev

Nice, I have about 1.5 gallons left in my 5 gallon jug.

Hopefully this will help your guys' situation. I bought some small foam ceramic coating applicators to try a while back and they absolutely sucked. That was with Adams Paint Coating but I'm sure the results would be similar with Ceramic Spray. The foam gave me a very uneven layer and runs due to it not being able to hold the liquid like the suede applicator or a towel would. You need something that can absorb the spray but also be able to let it go evenly as you're applying it.

It kind of seems like Clutch to me even though Kyle is denying it. Sounds interesting either way.

You can clay hard smooth surfaces. Glass, paint, and chrome, headlights/taillights. You cannot clay rubber trim or plastictrim/paneling. (I've used clay to remove road paint from textured plastic trim but that is not a normal use.)

One thing to watch out for with Adam's metal polish is that it's extremely watery. I personally wouldn't use it on anything other than a drill with an adapter. Even then, it slings all over the place. A traditional aluminum rouge on a rotary would probably be much better suited for this application.

A lot of people are now ceramic coating over PPF. If he doesn't want to go that in depth, maybe try a base layer of Ceramic Wax and maintain with Ceramic Boost.

I would try with a microfiber and see what happens, almost looks like pieces of foam that are disintegrating off the applicator.

In short, yes to all of the above. Regarding the finishing polish, the foam may actually be too soft to get the polish to work. Even the white finishing pads are firmer than the red or gray. But for wax or sealant, the red is just as good as the gray.

I washed all my white towels with some brand new red ones a while back. All my towels are pink lol

Very nice!

I run a waterjet, vertical mill, lathe, 3D printer, press brake, do metal coatings and powdercoating. If it cuts metal or has to do with metal, I can probably run it lol.

Yeah, grit guards fit nice and tight in my 6 year old buckets. My newer bucket has a loose fit with the grit guard which is slightly annoying. And I'm a machinist for a non DOD aircraft company.

I know your pain. My garage also houses a little woodworking and metal fabrication. I personally would downgrade them to dirty area towels or or use them around the house or something.

I'm more towards the side of touch it the least amount possible. Scratching/marring is inevitable but every day is unnecessarily risky.

This heats my 1300 square foot detached, decently insulated garage pretty well. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dyna-Glo-50K-80K-BTU-LP-Convection-Heater-RMC-LPC80DG/202895381 I just moved to this from a kerosene torpedo heater, less smell, propane is cheaper than kerosene, and more BTUs. I spend a pretty good amount of time in the garage but I can't afford to do a true wall mount propane system right now. This is pretty good deal for $100 plus whatever a tank will cost you.

I have the same issue with some tires, not all. I've chalked it up to be based on tire compounds. I've found in that in general, stiffer tires tend to "reject" Tire Shine and will do better with VRT. Softer tires really absorb the Tire Shine and look great. My Mickey Thompsons on my truck get blotchy with TS but look great with VRT. My moms Michelins on her Equinox look great with TS. The gf's beater with Walmart tires looks great with TS. Did a friends Corvette, whatever semi-performance tire he had on there didn't really look great with TS.

You might be using it a little too heavy. Even still, sometimes I get some stubborn hazing after removal. Brilliant Glaze does the trick to remove it.

Those are my signs, been using Adams for years. Everybody loves garage donuts right? Adams need to start sponsoring me for all the money I turn to them!

You guys are killing it and the waiting list is a good problem to have. I have to admit that the Bentley doesn't do anything for me but I would love to own that '01 Cadillac. Keep it up guys.

Either red or yellow would be work. They're both wax applicators. I keep one that write "sealant" on the top so I don't mix them up.

I detail a little on the side, mostly friends and family. The extra cash pretty much pays for all my detailing stuff. Most people get what I call a "basic detail". It's a thorough wash, clay bar, paint sealant, and interior detail. No polishing. I charge 150 for small cars and 200 for trucks.

I would just like to mention to the OP that while you can use any towel to dry your wheels, it should be washed and handled separately from your paint towels to avoid contamination. And another vote for the sidekick.

If your wheels are maintained regularly and you don't have some kind of crazy dusty pads, the Eco wheel cleaner is basically just a lubricant for your brushes or whatever you use, it's not designed to be touchless. If you put shampoo in your wheel bucket, you get nearly the same results. In the situation you had with your friends car, it just wasn't the right product. It's one of those things that's more of a luxury item.

I've been using Adams Paint Sealant for years and it always leaves a haze. The current Paint Sealant is much better than the last version at least. I always follow up with brilliant glaze to remove it. And if there's a few really stubborn ones, they usually come off with the first wash. Also, I would recommend coating prep between polishing and sealing. And last, I don't bother drying the car before claying but I work in a garage.

Glass Sealant if you haven't done it in a while.