red94chev

Welcome, good to see another Marylander on here.

I would bet it's fine, almost every one of my products froze 2 weeks ago but i haven't had any issues yet. Also, I have used it on a headliner by blotting the mark and then gently rubbing. you don't want to agitate the glue that holds the liner on.

Finally brought in all my Adams from the garage, or should I say colored ice cubes. Only had one detail spray start leaking out the nozzle so I got pretty lucky. I miss my old walk in basement at the last house.

Wet car for me (Adams Wheel Cleaner), don't want that etching into the paint. Never tried the other stuff.

I agree with all of the above in the professional sense. However Cedric, you don't sound like a professional and it doesn't sound like the girl thinks that you are a professional. And that is ok, we all have to start somewhere. Now what I mean by that is she probably doesn't know what a "swirl" is so chasing perfection on this car (which will inevitably be ruined again at the auto wash) is a waste of your time and money. What I would focus on is getting the car really clean with a good layer of sealant, and the new AIO on an orange pad would be a great (fast and efficient for the results I think you need) way to make the car look much better without putting in 20 hours of correction on a black car that most likely won't stay corrected. My recommendation would be: Strip wash Clay Polish with AIO or Correcting Polish Paint Sealant Glass Sealant Interior

Start with a clean dry car. Get a bottle of H2OGG and a bottle of water. Spray water on car 1 section/panel at a time and spray H2OGG to that area just as if you had just got done washing the car like usual. And then work your way around the car.

Same for me except mine are all black and not clear. 1 for polishing towels, 1 for drying, 1 for wheels and metal polishing, 1 for interior and junky towels, and the last is for pads and applicators. And Ditto on what Wolf said, those little drawers look nice but I have a working garage and all kinds of dirt and dust would get in those cracks.

I would try to refrain from any polishing until the paint is fully cured. My recommendation would be to just keep it clean (regular car shampoo) and probably just detail spray until its ready.

My winter prep is a good solid wash, clay, paint sealant day. I wouldn't really worry about polishing anything since the salt is gonna tear it up anyway. Then every couple washes or so, throw a coat of H2OGG on. Also, don't forget the glass sealant and hit it with the glass boost when you do the H2OGG. Then when spring rolls around, clay all the crap off from winter and go ahead with the waxes and all that. P.S. If I know its gonna snow the next day, I usually spray the inner fenders and spots where I know snow will want to build up with the Undercarriage Spray. It helps keep it from sticking.

There's still many companies that produce the larger pads. Short of getting the smaller backing plate, this may be a situation where you need to order from a different company. That being said, I prefer the newer 5.5" over the bigger pads because it's easier to get into tight spaces.

3M adhesive remover, this stuff is magic when it comes to anything sticky.

It does look thick like a soap.

I usually polish metal with the Adams cordless drill adapter and I have also used a similar air powered 3" rotary before. I think using an orbital might end up in a giant mess (slinging black liquid everywhere).

Still have a bottle from last year so I probably won't get any this year but that label is awesome!

Holy hell, I think I would pass out! My mom drove in some about 2 years ago but not nearly to that extent. I hit all the body panels first with a clay bar and then used that same clay bar on the plastic inner fenders. Then come back with Tarminator or 3M adhesive remover and start working on the rest. It's gonna take a while so just be patient.

Yeah, didn't drive it to keep it nice or what? I live in MD so understand not driving a nice car in the winter with the road salt but 80 miles in a year!

Yeah, I detail cars on the side and tend to get really bad cars that haven't been washed in years. The mitt is almost useless in this situation. I would save the mitt for the cars that just need a quick once over/light claying. A true multiple clay bar process is what is needed for hammered paint. And +1 for Tarminator to get the scuffs off.

Yeah, I just went out and bumped mine up to 13 and I could look at the sun.

Welcome! Where at in MD? I'm in Cecil County.

I'm slightly off center in Maryland but I'm still pretty excited to see an 80% eclipse. I hope my welding helmet is sufficient.

I cant imagine the weights having a problem sticking to the coating. I would probably coat before getting the tires put on but that's just me.

Yeah, I saw the Instagram photo too. It looks like a Magic Eraser.

I don't have the merino mitt but I do have multiple regular wash mitts, and some have been around for a while. For what it's worth, I take mine inside and put them on a hanger and let them drip into a bucket. I used to let them dry in the bucket but they tended to matted up faster. I think the cool dry air and better circulation help the fibers stay normal. This should work with any wash mitt.

Another vote for 3M Adhesive Remover, Goo Gone can't hold a candle to it.

2 in the gun and 4 in the cannon for me.