red94chev

Someone else may chime in but I think I would put down Boost as my base layer and then Ceramic Wax as my top layer. I personally wouldn't bother with Glaze or Buttery, they are not SIO2 products so they will not bond like Boost and the Ceramic Wax will. Hopefully that makes sense. Your prep process looks fine. Waterless washes will be fine. Any other sealants and waxes probably wouldn't mess with anything but Ceramics are designed to work with Ceramics.

Shouldn't have hurt anything, I've done it plenty of times.

Technically yes, but if they know anything about detailing, I would make sure they understand. Basically ask if they'd rather have a true polish and "6 month" sealant or a quick "all in one" job and price accordingly.

I had about a dozen until I got a buddy into detailing recently. To save him money, I've been filling old bottles with various stuff to try and there went all my nozzles!

Good work. Sometimes it's frustrating but I think my favorite jobs are bringing beat cars back to the shiny side.

Get yourself a few cans of Fluid Film and spray it in every nook and cranny you can get to and the underside of the car. (best to do it right before winter) Even then as bad as it seems, a daily driver car that lives outside in the salt belt has a limited lifespan for when the rust will hit.

Likewise for Dan. I called Adams Customer Service for probably the first time in 5 years and he picked right up and had me fixed in a few minutes.

I would say you should be fine since it gases out during the baking process.

I would say they could have used food coloring but the opaqueness looks too accurate.

You could always add some H2OGG to the wheels for easy protection. Just be sure to keep those towels separate from paint towels.

Nice work, my boss just traded in one of those cars. Same year, same color, but almost 200k miles on it. They gave him $2000, the depreciation is crazy.

I have some empty SE bottles if you just want them for collection purposes.

VRT may be watery but it should still be fine. I still have some buttery wax from that era and its ok. Detail spray probably just needs shaken up before use. And the red soap is one of my favorites and should still be fine.

Same here, don't mind it at all.

@mc2hill @Mariner I was thinking just hook the dogs up to a harness and do some mobile detailing.

What Wolf said, the particles are just bonded to the clear coat, not in it. Just don't let the wheel cleaner dry on the paint just as if you were cleaning the wheels.

Fairly cheap price point compared to other "professional" detailers. My side-job prices are not far off from this so that's kind of cool to see. The money they may be losing on labor, they will probably gain back and more getting people "hooked' and buying stuff to maintain their car after they're spruced up.

Save a few gallon containers to save premixed stuff in. I do that with a few things now.

I think I would get some plastic razor blades to try "chipping" the concrete chunks off before claying. I can see the clay dragging grit and scratching the paint pretty bad. Then clay and polish as necessary.

Looks like Adams currently has 6.5" pads on their website, that's what you would use if you have the original backing plate on the flex. They weren't selling the 6.5s for a while which would mean either changing the backing plate or buying pads somewhere else.

I'd stick with Paint Sealant as far as the base layer goes but you can certainly top it with Americana. Sweet ride, I/my girlfriend wants one pretty bad.

Here's a few I saved.

I have a few cool ones, I'll try and get a pic tonight.

I don't own a vehicle with less than 190,000 miles so yes, I have a lot of windshield pitting. Doesn't bother me too much.

Not to go off topic, but read the second review on that thing, the guy washed his car with rubbing alcohol! That does look like it would be perfect for pretreatment though.