07stanggt

If you can afford to, and you use a particular product a lot, buy it in gallons, If you do the math, you get 8 - 16oz bottles in every gallon of product you buy. So, if you bought 8 bottles of deep wheel cleaner at $17.95 each that comes to $143.60, or you can buy a gallon for $79.95. In the long run you save on product pricing and shipping as well.

HGG is not even slightly comparable to Quick Sealant in my opinion. Quick Sealant was basically just as fast to apply to the vehicle but lasted up to 6 months compared to HGG's 2-3 month range. Quick Sealant could stand up on its own and be the only protection on the paint. HGG is more of a topper, that can be used alone but in my opinion the durability isn't good enough to be used by itself. 
 
I wish I had stocked up on Quick Sealant when it was still offered - it was truly a great product. Wish Adams would consider reformulating to comply to the new VOC laws. 

You definetly need to remove the first product you applied for swirl removal BEFORE you go onto the next step !! I still use the old green Sever Swirl Remover from Adams for cars that are REALLY bad, then go onto the orange and white correcting polishes to finsh. There is no way those swirls came from just using clean towels etc. Sounds like you take good care of your stuff, had to be something other than good products to make those scratches.Here are a some before and after pics on some black paint I have corrected for customers with a machine. You pay the plane flight, I will pack my bags with my Adams stuff and remove those scratches and detail your car for free !!                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         

You definetly need to remove the first product you applied for swirl removal BEFORE you go onto the next step !! I still use the old green Sever Swirl Remover from Adams for cars that are REALLY bad, then go onto the orange and white correcting polishes to finsh. There is no way those swirls came from just using clean towels etc. Sounds like you take good care of your stuff, had to be something other than good products to make those scratches.Here are a some before and after pics on some black paint I have corrected for customers with a machine. You pay the plane flight, I will pack my bags with my Adams stuff and remove those scratches and detail your car for free !!                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         

You definetly need to remove the first product you applied for swirl removal BEFORE you go onto the next step !! I still use the old green Sever Swirl Remover from Adams for cars that are REALLY bad, then go onto the orange and white correcting polishes to finsh. There is no way those swirls came from just using clean towels etc. Sounds like you take good care of your stuff, had to be something other than good products to make those scratches.Here are a some before and after pics on some black paint I have corrected for customers with a machine. You pay the plane flight, I will pack my bags with my Adams stuff and remove those scratches and detail your car for free !!                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         

You definetly need to remove the first product you applied for swirl removal BEFORE you go onto the next step !! I still use the old green Sever Swirl Remover from Adams for cars that are REALLY bad, then go onto the orange and white correcting polishes to finsh. There is no way those swirls came from just using clean towels etc. Sounds like you take good care of your stuff, had to be something other than good products to make those scratches.Here are a some before and after pics on some black paint I have corrected for customers with a machine. You pay the plane flight, I will pack my bags with my Adams stuff and remove those scratches and detail your car for free !!                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         

You definetly need to remove the first product you applied for swirl removal BEFORE you go onto the next step !! I still use the old green Sever Swirl Remover from Adams for cars that are REALLY bad, then go onto the orange and white correcting polishes to finsh. There is no way those swirls came from just using clean towels etc. Sounds like you take good care of your stuff, had to be something other than good products to make those scratches.Here are a some before and after pics on some black paint I have corrected for customers with a machine. You pay the plane flight, I will pack my bags with my Adams stuff and remove those scratches and detail your car for free !!                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         

You definetly need to remove the first product you applied for swirl removal BEFORE you go onto the next step !! I still use the old green Sever Swirl Remover from Adams for cars that are REALLY bad, then go onto the orange and white correcting polishes to finsh. There is no way those swirls came from just using clean towels etc. Sounds like you take good care of your stuff, had to be something other than good products to make those scratches.Here are a some before and after pics on some black paint I have corrected for customers with a machine. You pay the plane flight, I will pack my bags with my Adams stuff and remove those scratches and detail your car for free !!                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         

When you do paint correction, this is why you need a swirl finder light. What looks good in the garage may not look as good in direct sunlight.
 
Audi paint in my experience with it is very hard. A light/medium foam cutting pad probably doesn't have enough cut to remove the swirls. I'd use a microfiber cutting pad. The last Audi I did, I used a medium cut pad to finish with, it was an Audi TT.
 
What causes swirls to start with?
 
Improper wash/drying technique.
 
For washing, I use the 2 bucket method with a foam gun.
Begin by inspecting the car for dirt/road film. Rinse all the dirt you can off to start. Then use the foam gun. This doesn't actually clean the surface, but adds a layer of lubrication to minimize/prevent swirls.
 
Next dip your mitt/wash pad into your soap bucket. You should inspect your mitt/pad after every pass. When you see dirt on it, rinse in the rinse bucket rubbing it against the grit guard. DO NOT PUT IT BACK INTO THE SOAP BUCKET UNLESS IT IS 100% CLEAN! You should be WIPING the surface to remove dirt/road film, not scrubbing. For a car that is really dirty, use 1 mitt/pad for the top half, and a different for the bottom. You should inspect your/mitt pad before using it to make sure it's clean and soft.
 
To aid in drying, after you rinse all the soap off, do a pooling/sheeting rinse. If you have a good coat of sealant or wax on the car, this will remove 80-90% of the water, leaving you very little to dry.
 
Mist each panel with 1 spray of Detail Spray. With your drying towel, LIGHTLY and SLOWLY wipe the remaining water off.
 
Following this procedure, I only need to 1 step with finishing polish every 6-8 months, and my car is an un-garaged daily driver.

I'd used a California Duster in the past, I've discontinued its use. I'd even gotten Junkman's instructions first hand at a Detail Clinic I'd attended years ago. It didn't seem to matter how lightly I drug the tool across my perfectly corrected paint, I'd induce marring. It's made of cotton fibers, like a mop, and those fibers have been soaked in paraffin wax. Yes, as advertised, the dust picked up is absorbed into the fibers, but not until its been dragged across my paint for a bit.
 
Now, I liberally spray one panel at a time with either Waterless Wash, Rinseless Wash, or Detail Spray and carefully wipe that off with a Waterless Wash microfiber towel. These three products help to encapsulate the dust and lift it away from the paint, so when carefully wiped it has less of a chance of inducing any type of marring. The Waterless Wash microfiber towel helps quite a bit too. By the nature of its waffle weave dust is pulled up into the towel, not just left on it surface.
 
The less you touch your paint, the less of a chance you have of induce any marring.

Dont leave out looking at a Flex 3401. I've got 2 PC's, and a Flex,and hands down for cutting power and way less vibration, nothing cuts like the Flex. Takes 7 inch pads and with a different backing plate, will take 4 and 5 in. pads too. 

Dont leave out looking at a Flex 3401. I've got 2 PC's, and a Flex,and hands down for cutting power and way less vibration, nothing cuts like the Flex. Takes 7 inch pads and with a different backing plate, will take 4 and 5 in. pads too. 

I'll take your Buttery Wax if your not going to use it !! LOL

Patriot & Americana always gives me a deep wet look that I can't get from a sealant.

For all the cars I detail and apply machine sealant to, I always use a coat of Brilliant Glaze on top of the machine sealant and then a coat of Buttery Wax or Americana. Brilliant Glaze adds the "pop" and the wax adds the depth and shine and all my customers are amazed at the results. As mentioned above in some posts, depends on the car and what your doing with it.I will definetly agree that sealant adds a good amount of shine, but wax adds the depth. Heres a couple pics of my Mustang at at the Good Guys East Coast Nationals, never had any sealant on it, Patiot Wax and Brilliant Glaze only, and it like looks dripping wet. Tough to get that shine and depth with sealant only.                                                                                                                                                                                                
 

It's all personal preference Jim If you enjoy spending the time working on your vehicle like a lot of us here do for our car therapy, and you're happy with the results, then sticking with putting Buttery Wax over the Liquid Paint Sealant is fine. It's an incredibly easy product to use, and I usually want to sit down with some popcorn and watch a movie after I use it!
 
Yes, using HGG over top of LPS would provide a little more durability since HGG is an acrylic-based sealant, but BW will still give you a very nice shine.
 
I understand what you're saying about sealants vs. waxes Tim, and I agree that sealants will outperform a paste wax for longevity. To my eye though, a premium paste wax gives more depth and glow to a nice dark colored vehicle or vehicles that have a lot of pearl or metallics in the finish. Similar to what you said, when I'm detailing a top of the line show car or a car that doesn't get out of the garage too much, then I always grab my tub of Americana or Patriot Wax, but if I'm detailing a daily driver that is going to see a lot of miles of all sorts of weather, then I will stick with Liquid Paint Sealant or HGG.
 
The key is for you guys and gals is to try a few different options and see which works best for you

I have used the wet method countless number of times, my gallon is only 1/4 full.
I stopped doing wash/clay/wax for customers, and instead do wash/clay/HGG now.
 
After washing with Adams Car Shampoo, then clay or speedy prep rinse car again, when rinsed well, I just knock off a little of the water that is on the vertical surface of the vehicle. DO NOT PERFORM A POOLING RINSE! The HGG needs water to be activated in order to work.
 
After rinsing (In the shade), apply 1 panel at a time, about 1 spray for 3 square feet. Shake the bottle well. After I've sprayed the panel (pull trigger fast and flip your wrist at the same time to mist across panel being worked), I then go to my wet towel bucket, which has two towels in it, both are plush microfiber (Double Soft).
 
Wring out one of the towels and spread the HGG which has now activated with the water. The plush microfiber will spread the HGG and absorb most all of the water left on the panel, you'll know it's done correctly when it "disappears" into the paint, put the "used" towel back in the water bucket underneath the "fresh" one. Then dry any remaining water with dry plush microfiber. Continue process over entire vehicle. Swapping the towels out also eliminates staining on them from HGG. Also keeps towels from getting clogged with product. Give the bottle a couple shakes each time you spray a new panel.
 
If you have any streaks after you've finished the vehicle, simple take one of the wet towels and lightly spread the un-activated HGG, dry with dry towel. 
 
If your working in a hot ambient temperature, and water is drying on the car too fast, use a spray bottle with water, to mist the panel first so the HGG can activate.
 
Streaks come from not enough water on the panel, as well as using too much HGG.
 
The results from HGG and the minimal amount of time required to apply are simply amazing. I haven't had a single customer who disliked the way the paint looked after I was finished.
 
Want to really get it done fast? Have a friend, spouse, or significant other use the dry towel while you spread with the wet.

Great input here!  This is a tricky product and we should have clearer instructions.  Direct sun makes it work poorly.  Sometimes, on darker finishes, it can look streaky if it dries too fast.
 
Also, the product separates, so here is the crazy process I use for making sure the solids are removed from the straw, so the sprayer works correctly:
 
Remove the sprayer from the bottle, and spray the product in the straw back into the bottle. Screw on the shipping cap.   Shake the H20 like crazy.    Remove cap, install sprayer. After washing the vehicle, which is ideally COOL to the touch, and not in direct sunlight, spray two panels with the H20.   Don't just kind of spray it, give the sprayer a fast, hard tug so the product comes out of the bottle in a fine mist.  If you barely pull the trigger, the product won't atomize well, and will spit out.
 
Immediately hit those two panels with a damp Double Soft or Gray Edgeless towel.  Follow with a clean premium microfiber towel, polishing to perfection.
 
Under the following circumstances, the H20 is tricky to use:
 
Hot temps, direct sunlight. On a finish that hasn't been clayed and polished in a while. When the H20 was used in the past 3-4 weeks.  
I've been using the H20 every third or fourth wash.  On my white Jeep, I rarely even wash it now.  Since using the H20, a pressure washer is just about all I need.  Nothing sticks to it.
 
That said, I totally see how some users have issues with this product, as what I've just spelled out isn't spelled out well enough in the video, or on the label.
 
Remember, our 110% unconditional satisfaction guarantee is there for things like this, and we are learning from you!   Thank you for your raw and excellent reviews, please keep them coming.

Guys why all the arguments? I really don't want to shut down this thread. This is Adam's Forum.
Adam's Detail Spray is great for use as a clay lube, period. The minute amount of gloss enhancers in the Detail Spray isn't really leaving much of anything behind, it won't cause any adverse effects to polish or LSP.
If your doing a lot of vehicles, buy in the 5 gallon tote; $189.00, that's $29.7/ounce or $4.75/16oz bottle if you're refilling current Detail Spray bottles.
$4.75 for a 16 ounce refilled bottle, expensive? Really?
 
Have a good weekend!
Later...

If your detailing many cars professinally like myself, and I clay all of them, are YOU really paying for the product,or in reality, your charging the customer for it. I have tried all the methods listed above, and am sticking with detail spray. I buy it in 5 gallon jugs from Adams and have never had an issue. The clay bar last longer since it doesnt get broken down by the effects of soap or other "dillutions" of various products. If your being penny wise and pound foolish about the small difference in price about detail products from Adams, your in the wrong business. I'm sure Megs, Turtle guy, etc make a product for claying too, but I aint using it !!!

If your detailing many cars professinally like myself, and I clay all of them, are YOU really paying for the product,or in reality, your charging the customer for it. I have tried all the methods listed above, and am sticking with detail spray. I buy it in 5 gallon jugs from Adams and have never had an issue. The clay bar last longer since it doesnt get broken down by the effects of soap or other "dillutions" of various products. If your being penny wise and pound foolish about the small difference in price about detail products from Adams, your in the wrong business. I'm sure Megs, Turtle guy, etc make a product for claying too, but I aint using it !!!

If your detailing many cars professinally like myself, and I clay all of them, are YOU really paying for the product,or in reality, your charging the customer for it. I have tried all the methods listed above, and am sticking with detail spray. I buy it in 5 gallon jugs from Adams and have never had an issue. The clay bar last longer since it doesnt get broken down by the effects of soap or other "dillutions" of various products. If your being penny wise and pound foolish about the small difference in price about detail products from Adams, your in the wrong business. I'm sure Megs, Turtle guy, etc make a product for claying too, but I aint using it !!!

If your detailing many cars professinally like myself, and I clay all of them, are YOU really paying for the product,or in reality, your charging the customer for it. I have tried all the methods listed above, and am sticking with detail spray. I buy it in 5 gallon jugs from Adams and have never had an issue. The clay bar last longer since it doesnt get broken down by the effects of soap or other "dillutions" of various products. If your being penny wise and pound foolish about the small difference in price about detail products from Adams, your in the wrong business. I'm sure Megs, Turtle guy, etc make a product for claying too, but I aint using it !!!

I have 3 machines. 2 PC's one with a 4 inch backing plate the other with a 7 inch so I do not have to keep switching plates all the time, and my favorite, a Flex 3401. I do a lot of paint correcting for customers so it makes it easier for me not to switch pads all the time, but if thats not what your doing, I l'd buy a Flex. Using the variable speed is great, very comfortable to use, very minimal vibration from the Flex and WOW does it correct paint. Lots of backing plates and pads available as well. I do like my 2 PC's theyt just do not work as fast or as efficient as the Flex. Never used a Cyclo, or a Rupes so cant tell you how those work but I hear good things. I just thought I would stick with a proven machine that is recommended by many professional detailers.As with most people, you start with a PC and end up buying a Flex , quicker and faster.There is a PC listed under "Garage Sale Forum" for $50 yesterday,(a great buy) I would buy that if I didnt have 2 already. You can never have enough tools !!!!

Agreed, but I do not have any issue using SVRT on my white letter tires, maybe because of the white pigment in the SVRT. I will have to agree with Kickerz71, using Tireshine does discolor the white lettering if not wiped off. I have now switched to SVRT on my truck and all oter vehicles get Tireshine. Both great products !!