Baron_Von_Awesome

Well...almost complete.  The last wall I'm going to finish sometime in the spring...
 

 

 

 
The flooring is Race Deck and was stupid easy to install...even with the cuts I had to make it only took about 3 hours.  If you're on the fence about it, just take the plunge...it's great stuff!  Also spring for a rubber mallet - it makes installation much faster and easier.  I used a simple Ryobi compound miter saw to make the tile cuts no sweat.
 
The garage door is insulated with Matador Grage Door Insualation - it's basically a styrofoam material that's also easy to install, but VERY messy to cut as little bits of styrofoam go all over and cling to everything...when I was done installing, I had to MetroVac the floor and myself.   While it doesn't insulate as well as the Corning fiberglass kit, I think it looks a lot better and the difference between the two can probably be made up with a small space heater in the winter time.
 
I'm planning on picking up one more T8 light fixture sometime in the near future, but as it stands I'm happy with the light output and don't forsee having any real dark spots with a car in there.
 
The door opener is a Sommer Direct Drive opener - it's completely silent and with insulation, the door doesn't rattle at all when going up or down.  Really neat to watch a 16 foot wide garage door go up and down in almost complete silence! 
 
Thanks for looking

A blind reccomendation of rubbing vinegar on a car is probably not a good idea.  While it can work in cases of removing some dried mineral deposits that water can leave behind, it should not be used just for the simple reason that anything that does not have a neutral pH (or damn close to it) has no business being on or near paint...and that's doubly true for classic vehicles.  Just like the "tar removal" thread recently, this is another case of using a home remedy when there are dedicated & safer products readily available...visit the "Shop Online" link at the top of this page to take care of your car...not Aisle 9 at the supermarket.
 
Chris' suggestion above of Revive would be the safest first stop - if that doesn't work, we know there is more to it than the usual calcium hydroxide mineral spots (which is what vinegar removes) and we are instead looking at etching of the finish; which would require the area to be compounded.
 
Also don't forget that using vinegar strips wax, so any protection would need to be re-applied to that area.  Rubbing acrylics with vinegar will also leave the finish very prone to scratching and marring.  It will also leave dull patches on the finish if left to sit for too long. 
 
What happened to the "Detail Advisors" from the old Adam's forums?  Might be time to bring that back...

The OP isn't providing much information either.  Nor answering many of our questions to boot....
 
A simple cell phone pic, accompanied by: "Here's what I've done so far....so what do I do next?"  Would've already had this issue RESOLVED, 9 posts ago.  There's a TON of talented guys in this thread, that are EASILY able to help.  But we need to get less "dancing around" from the OP, so we can help resolve this.  Plain & simple.
 
@racecar67 - Please just follow up with my suggested info, and we'd be glad to help get ya figured out.  Done deal.

Great work man!

Plenty of inexpensive specialty products out there that will safely remove tar...no need for home remedies.  Save the food for your belly!

Welcome Steve! Gonna have to go more aggressive it looks like.  Do you have/use Adam's products?  Are you familiar with the product line? As a rule of thumb, you want to use waterless wash on classics and not much more so that situations like this can be avoided.  To get rid of your water spots, try a clay bar first.  If that doesn't work, try a finishing polish/pad combo and work your way up to more aggressive combo's if needed.

I suggest giving more information 
 
What were you washing it with? Do you own a machine polisher? What is your detailing experience like - does it extend beyond just maintenance washing? What products & methods have you tried so far to get rid of the spots?  Original paint on the Chevelle?  And also, where are you located?  Pictures will also be helpful.

Sorry to hear there are a few people who aren't pleased with Undercarriage Spray. As a guy who drives pretty much nothing but trucks and SUV's I love the stuff... even more ever since I got this latest truck and went UP with it instead of DOWN like usual. 
 
Of course for anyone who is less than satisfied I encourage you to take advantage of the satisfaction guarantee... what good is the backing of the product we provide if you don't take advantage of it when you're not pleased? 

Plenty of inexpensive specialty products out there that will safely remove tar...no need for home remedies.  Save the food for your belly!

Depends on how deep your level of obsession is...
Jeweling is simply an "over the top" final step to maximize your shine potential that is mostly just done on show car paint jobs by highly skilled rotary detailers.  It will require a ultra soft foam jeweling pad, a ultra fine finishing polish and a rotary to do it correctly.  No need for the weekend warrior to worry about this step IMO. 

Well...almost complete.  The last wall I'm going to finish sometime in the spring...
 

 

 

 
The flooring is Race Deck and was stupid easy to install...even with the cuts I had to make it only took about 3 hours.  If you're on the fence about it, just take the plunge...it's great stuff!  Also spring for a rubber mallet - it makes installation much faster and easier.  I used a simple Ryobi compound miter saw to make the tile cuts no sweat.
 
The garage door is insulated with Matador Grage Door Insualation - it's basically a styrofoam material that's also easy to install, but VERY messy to cut as little bits of styrofoam go all over and cling to everything...when I was done installing, I had to MetroVac the floor and myself.   While it doesn't insulate as well as the Corning fiberglass kit, I think it looks a lot better and the difference between the two can probably be made up with a small space heater in the winter time.
 
I'm planning on picking up one more T8 light fixture sometime in the near future, but as it stands I'm happy with the light output and don't forsee having any real dark spots with a car in there.
 
The door opener is a Sommer Direct Drive opener - it's completely silent and with insulation, the door doesn't rattle at all when going up or down.  Really neat to watch a 16 foot wide garage door go up and down in almost complete silence! 
 
Thanks for looking

Well...almost complete.  The last wall I'm going to finish sometime in the spring...
 

 

 

 
The flooring is Race Deck and was stupid easy to install...even with the cuts I had to make it only took about 3 hours.  If you're on the fence about it, just take the plunge...it's great stuff!  Also spring for a rubber mallet - it makes installation much faster and easier.  I used a simple Ryobi compound miter saw to make the tile cuts no sweat.
 
The garage door is insulated with Matador Grage Door Insualation - it's basically a styrofoam material that's also easy to install, but VERY messy to cut as little bits of styrofoam go all over and cling to everything...when I was done installing, I had to MetroVac the floor and myself.   While it doesn't insulate as well as the Corning fiberglass kit, I think it looks a lot better and the difference between the two can probably be made up with a small space heater in the winter time.
 
I'm planning on picking up one more T8 light fixture sometime in the near future, but as it stands I'm happy with the light output and don't forsee having any real dark spots with a car in there.
 
The door opener is a Sommer Direct Drive opener - it's completely silent and with insulation, the door doesn't rattle at all when going up or down.  Really neat to watch a 16 foot wide garage door go up and down in almost complete silence! 
 
Thanks for looking

Well...almost complete.  The last wall I'm going to finish sometime in the spring...
 

 

 

 
The flooring is Race Deck and was stupid easy to install...even with the cuts I had to make it only took about 3 hours.  If you're on the fence about it, just take the plunge...it's great stuff!  Also spring for a rubber mallet - it makes installation much faster and easier.  I used a simple Ryobi compound miter saw to make the tile cuts no sweat.
 
The garage door is insulated with Matador Grage Door Insualation - it's basically a styrofoam material that's also easy to install, but VERY messy to cut as little bits of styrofoam go all over and cling to everything...when I was done installing, I had to MetroVac the floor and myself.   While it doesn't insulate as well as the Corning fiberglass kit, I think it looks a lot better and the difference between the two can probably be made up with a small space heater in the winter time.
 
I'm planning on picking up one more T8 light fixture sometime in the near future, but as it stands I'm happy with the light output and don't forsee having any real dark spots with a car in there.
 
The door opener is a Sommer Direct Drive opener - it's completely silent and with insulation, the door doesn't rattle at all when going up or down.  Really neat to watch a 16 foot wide garage door go up and down in almost complete silence! 
 
Thanks for looking

Well...almost complete.  The last wall I'm going to finish sometime in the spring...
 

 

 

 
The flooring is Race Deck and was stupid easy to install...even with the cuts I had to make it only took about 3 hours.  If you're on the fence about it, just take the plunge...it's great stuff!  Also spring for a rubber mallet - it makes installation much faster and easier.  I used a simple Ryobi compound miter saw to make the tile cuts no sweat.
 
The garage door is insulated with Matador Grage Door Insualation - it's basically a styrofoam material that's also easy to install, but VERY messy to cut as little bits of styrofoam go all over and cling to everything...when I was done installing, I had to MetroVac the floor and myself.   While it doesn't insulate as well as the Corning fiberglass kit, I think it looks a lot better and the difference between the two can probably be made up with a small space heater in the winter time.
 
I'm planning on picking up one more T8 light fixture sometime in the near future, but as it stands I'm happy with the light output and don't forsee having any real dark spots with a car in there.
 
The door opener is a Sommer Direct Drive opener - it's completely silent and with insulation, the door doesn't rattle at all when going up or down.  Really neat to watch a 16 foot wide garage door go up and down in almost complete silence! 
 
Thanks for looking

Well...almost complete.  The last wall I'm going to finish sometime in the spring...
 

 

 

 
The flooring is Race Deck and was stupid easy to install...even with the cuts I had to make it only took about 3 hours.  If you're on the fence about it, just take the plunge...it's great stuff!  Also spring for a rubber mallet - it makes installation much faster and easier.  I used a simple Ryobi compound miter saw to make the tile cuts no sweat.
 
The garage door is insulated with Matador Grage Door Insualation - it's basically a styrofoam material that's also easy to install, but VERY messy to cut as little bits of styrofoam go all over and cling to everything...when I was done installing, I had to MetroVac the floor and myself.   While it doesn't insulate as well as the Corning fiberglass kit, I think it looks a lot better and the difference between the two can probably be made up with a small space heater in the winter time.
 
I'm planning on picking up one more T8 light fixture sometime in the near future, but as it stands I'm happy with the light output and don't forsee having any real dark spots with a car in there.
 
The door opener is a Sommer Direct Drive opener - it's completely silent and with insulation, the door doesn't rattle at all when going up or down.  Really neat to watch a 16 foot wide garage door go up and down in almost complete silence! 
 
Thanks for looking

Is the air tight jar not enough?

And nothing is worse than that same black 3 hours later

Don't be nervous!  Claying is one of the easier parts of detailing...tedious no doubt...but easy.  You'll be fine 

IMHO, Unless you detail for a living, charging what you make at your other job doesn't sound fair to me.  Not trying to sound mean, so please don't take it that way.  Yeah, there is a lot of different product involved when detailing a car properly, but 90 bucks in product seems high to me especially for a Ford Focus (sorry if I got the make and model wrong).  I don't even think I use that much when I do my full size pickup.   Unless your paying a lot more for your stuff than I'am.  
 
Back to my first statement.  You may be slower, for example than someone who details every day all day long.  And to a customer that may be paying you an hourly rate they may think your milking them for all that is possible.  Not saying this is the case, but just something to think about, from the customers perspective.  And then if you tell them that is going to take only 4 hours and it takes much longer than that it could manifest into a mess and cause discontent between you and the customer.  Especially when your starting out, word of mouth is going to be your best advertisement.  Especially if it is something you want to pursue on the side.  
 
Just an example. I'am finishing a basement for someone.  Am I fast?  No.  But I'am picky and do things right, and don't cut corners.  I flat out told him that I didn't want to do it, if he didn't want it done right, and was looking to cut corners.  He saw mine, and seeing my work is the reason he approached me later on to do his.  He asked me to come up with an hourly rate, which I did, which is less than half of what I make at my day job.  The hourly rate that I come up with isn't making me a ton of money.  It isn't about that for me.  The experience and enjoyment is what is more important to me than the hourly rate.  And we both feel like where getting a good deal and developing a friendship out of it.  He even commented to me that he can tell I enjoy that kind of work.  I also laid out on the table that I'am not licensed and insured, but I do feel confident enough in my skills and knowledge to where I'am not going to put myself in a bad situation.  Now if I did this all the time on the side, licensing and insuring would be a priority and for that, along with more experience I could command a higher wage.    
 
But the most important thing as I mentioned in my other post is do a good job, and don't cut corners.  Even if it cost's you time.  Learn from it and adjust for the next situation.  And if it isn't something you don't enjoy doing and are just looking to make a buck from it, you probably shouldn't be doing it.  And stick to doing your own rides.

What to charge depends on a few things - like your local market and what prices it can support and also your skill & experience levels, which is often overlooked when it comes to pricing.  It might sting to hear it, but if you're new to detailing and in a middle/mid-high income area, your work isn't worth that much...despite how much effort you put in or whether you use OTC, Adam's, or $10/ounce car wash solution - that's just the name of the game.  PLUS, these are people you know, so they're already looking for cheap whether they show it or not.  Don't use any experience you may gain as a factor in your pricing unless you're starting a business soon - even then it should only be about 5% max.  Fill in these blanks with your own situation, Jordan(or anybody else that's looking to detail for $$$), and let us know what you come up with:
 
Average Area income?
What are other detailers in the area charging for similar work?
How much detailing experience do you actually have?(washing moms car when you were 9 does not count)
What are you offering?  As in, what does your detailing menu look like so you don't end up wandering out of scope of the job and underselling yourself?

Some APC and a brush - do NOT dress the mats with anything.  If they come out gray-ish after they're dry, you didn't get them clean enough...
 

It's horribly oxidized plastic - SCRUB SCRUB SCRUB!  A pad conditioning brush is fantastic to use along with APC for scrubbing oxidized trim - the bristles are the perfect stiffness and rounded at the tips so as not to gouge the trim pieces.
 
BEFORE:

 
SCRUB SCRUB SCRUB with pad conditioning brush:

 
AFTER:

This car had been largely neglected for just under a decade - the interior and paint were in need of some serious love.  It was decided in advance that since the car is not garaged, a ceramic coating would be the right way to go to keep the paint healthy and the car looking good long term.
 
FEATURED ADAM's PRODUCTS
Adam's Car Wash Shampoo
Adam's Blaster Sidekick
Adam's Trim & Lug Nut Brush


Kicked everything off with headlight restorations:


After Wetsanding:


After polishing out sanding marks.  Finished product:




Then moved on to some pretty nasty wheels.  10 years of baked on German brake dust ended up being quite a workout...




Wheel cleaner at work:


Cleaning up the grime:


A second pass of wheel cleaner was needed to get everything:




Exhaust tip cleaned up:




Engine bay cleaned up:




On to the interior!  I started by removing plastic leftover from a lazy dealer prep:




Door sills cleaned and polished:




Rest of interior:






Spider eggs over easy:


Beehive in fuel filler area:


Last of the pre-wash tasks - cleaning up the trim and tight spots:


















Onto the wash:


Mummified frog rinsed from undercarriage:


Post wash eval - not pretty:










50/50 after one pass:


Continuing correction work around the car:












Final Rinse to remove dust and polishing oils:


Some final shots:












Thanks for looking!

This car had been largely neglected for just under a decade - the interior and paint were in need of some serious love.  It was decided in advance that since the car is not garaged, a ceramic coating would be the right way to go to keep the paint healthy and the car looking good long term.
 
FEATURED ADAM's PRODUCTS
Adam's Car Wash Shampoo
Adam's Blaster Sidekick
Adam's Trim & Lug Nut Brush


Kicked everything off with headlight restorations:


After Wetsanding:


After polishing out sanding marks.  Finished product:




Then moved on to some pretty nasty wheels.  10 years of baked on German brake dust ended up being quite a workout...




Wheel cleaner at work:


Cleaning up the grime:


A second pass of wheel cleaner was needed to get everything:




Exhaust tip cleaned up:




Engine bay cleaned up:




On to the interior!  I started by removing plastic leftover from a lazy dealer prep:




Door sills cleaned and polished:




Rest of interior:






Spider eggs over easy:


Beehive in fuel filler area:


Last of the pre-wash tasks - cleaning up the trim and tight spots:


















Onto the wash:


Mummified frog rinsed from undercarriage:


Post wash eval - not pretty:










50/50 after one pass:


Continuing correction work around the car:












Final Rinse to remove dust and polishing oils:


Some final shots:












Thanks for looking!

It's a non-Adam's product designed specifically for extracting oxidation from trim, but some diluted Adam's APC and elbow grease would give a similar result.