mc2hill

PESTO KIELBASA
 
This recipe is fairly easy and it allows me to use some detailed cooking methods.
 
I used a Turkey Polska Kielbasa, but will vary it by using any prepared dinner sausage.

 
Two boxes Long Grain & Wild Rice.

 
Pesto sauce and Parmesan Cheese.

 
One Zucchini Squash and two small Yellow Squash.

 
This is where the detailed part comes in.  Cut the vegetables in even thicknesses, about 1/4-inch, so that they will cook evenly.  If some are much thinner, they will get overdone and mushy.  Do the same with the sausage, but you can go a little thinner, like 3/16-inch, so there are more pieces.

 
Cook the rice according to package instructions (this brand takes 25 minutes).
 
Over medium-high heat, with some olive oil, cook the sausage.  Since it is already fully-cooked in the package, it just needs to be heated and browned a bit.

 
Then put it in a serving dish (one with a lid), and add a few scoops of Pesto Sauce.

 
Stir well to distribute the pesto.

 
On medium-high heat, brown the veggies in one even layer.  Just brown them on the surface but don't cook them all the way through, or they will be mushy.  You want them to still have some crispness when eaten, nobody likes mushy squash.

 
I use two forks to turn them, as it is easier that trying to use a spatula.

 
With a medium-sized pan, I end up with three batches of veggies, since I cook them in one layer.  This may not be efficient, but the rice cooks slow so there is enough time.

 
After each batch of veggies is done, I add it to the serving dish.

 
Cover the dish to keep them warm.

 
Once they are all cooked...

 
Give it gentle toss, so the veggies don't get mangled.

 
Serve on a plate, garnish with Parmesan Cheese.

 
You can also serve it over the rice in a bowl.

 

M105 is widely used and was one of the best cutting polishes at one time.  Other polishes have improved (including Adam's PCP) and are easier to work with, dust less, and often do not need a 2nd step.  The correcting polish will finish down well enough that the finishing polish is not needed.   

Hi All,
 
We have pulled the trigger and made a limited run on premium die cut window stickers. We are shipping free internationally if 2 or more stickers are purchased.
 
Have your ride looking clean and displaying Adam's in spring! They can be purchased right here www.adamspolishes.net.au (made in Australia)
 

 

Spent a couple hours at the middle school parking lot teaching the wife how to back a trailer.  Trailer isn't short, but it isn't long either.  She says I make it look too easy.  I think she struggles with forcing herself to think backwards when turning the wheel and waits too long to adjust.  She is getting it though.  Was suppose to teach my kid how to parallel park, but he had to go to work and our schedules just didn't work out.  
 
Come home and bbq'd pork chops.  Been reading a shop manual to do a timing belt, water pump and transmission service on her Charger.  Ordered parts last night.  Probably won't get to that for a month or two, but nice to have the parts if I decide to tear into it.  Wonders of the internet.  At least when the boxes start showing up she knows they are for her car.

^^I am with Roger.  I use LPS for the whole car and QS for wheels & front-end bug protection.  LPS is easier to apply to a large area. 

In my experience LPS lasts about 6 months on an ungaraged daily driver here in New England. I've found QS lasts longer and is able to withstand high temperatures (I believe 300 F was the max?). I use LPS on my paint because of the ease with which you can apply it. I use QS strictly for sealing my wheels, exhaust, under-hood paint, etc because a. they are smaller areas where the aerosol nature is beneficial, b. are subject to intense heat, and c. I only want to bother sealing twice a year. I used QS on my paint the winter before LPS came out and while it worked great (better than LPS in my opinion, in terms of forming a rock hard barrier against the elements) it was very tedious to do an entire car with QS.
 
Either way, sealant should go on bare paint, before wax.

BLUE vs. RED
A Head-to-Head Foam-off
 
Three ounces in each foam cannon bottle.
 

 
 
Shaken, not stirred.
 

 
 
BLUE on the left, RED on the right.
 

 
 
After one minute.
 

 
 
After two minutes.
 

 
 
After three minutes.
 

 
 
After four minutes.
 

 
 
In both trials, the truck had just been washed and rinsed, so that the first shampoo did not have more dirt to cling to in the first trial.  After the first trial, the truck was rinsed and then the red shampoo was used.
 
The photos were taken with a timer remote at one minute intervals.  During the second trial, there was a little more sun so the foam looks whiter, but there was no real difference in appearance.  In both trials, the passenger side was foamed using cold DI water on a 45 degree day.  The photos of the second trial were then flipped and added to the photos for the first trial.
 
As shown, the new blue shampoo does not seem to foam or cling any better than the original red shampoo. BUT HERE'S THE DIFFERENCE, the new blue shampoo is more slippery, it feels like the old red shampoo with Rinseless mixed in.  I have been foaming with a mix of 3oz of shampoo and 1oz of Rinseless for the last year, but the rinseless would decrease the overall foam and hang-time.
 
With the new blue shampoo, there is still good foam with the added benefit of more lubrication.
 
As for performance in the bucket, I did not see much of a difference in original foaminess, but the new blue did last a little longer and it was easier to build more foam by stirring the brushes or pad.  I actually ended up with more foam in the wash pad bucket after really working the pad on the grit guard then when it was first filled.
 
In these wheel cleaning buckets, the blue is on the right and the red on the left.
 
First filled with hot water from the sink faucet.
 

 
 
Twelve minutes later I start on the wheels.
 

 
 
Fifteen minutes of washing wheels, tires and wells.
 

 
 
The new blue wildberry scent is nice, and it is definitely stronger than the original red cherry.
 
In summary, the new blue has more lubricity but the foam cannon results are the same.  In the bucket, the foaminess is improved.  Overall a nice improvement, but not a huge difference.  But that's what happens when you improve on a product that is already a good performer.
 

Emir, I believe your thinking was correct based on the what the detailer was offering.  Without them doing a test spot on your car, they would have used a finishing polish in their '1 step', and the '2 step' would have been a correcting polish, followed by a finishing polish.
 
With the advances in polish and pads,  as Jason said, with SOME paint colors you can work the correcting polish down to a level that adding a finishing step is not required.  On my son's champagne color Civic, I could not correct it with foam pads, but was able to get the MF pad + correcting polish to finish down without the finishing step.  We also did the same thing a few weeks ago with a dark grey BMW.

To make the foam gun even easier to use I pre-mixed my foam gun solution in a gallon container.  It is mixed at 6 oz. Adam's Car Wash Shampoo to 32 oz. of water.  Just pour the solution in the foam gun  and you are ready to go.  If you want a heavier mixture, just add a little more Shampoo.
 

Rest of my racks came in today and got them all labeled up.

Hey Ryan, you may want to contact Phil at Detailer's Domain (an Adam's dealer) or check out his website and forum.  He sells several coatings and may be able to answer questsons and help you with an installer in your area. 

Before washing, lower the windows a little and clean off that top strip of dirt.  Then go ahead and wash (windows back up of course) and then after you dry, you can clean the rest of the glass.

M105 is widely used and was one of the best cutting polishes at one time.  Other polishes have improved (including Adam's PCP) and are easier to work with, dust less, and often do not need a 2nd step.  The correcting polish will finish down well enough that the finishing polish is not needed.   

For me the garage queen is all about enjoyment - and since I enjoy applying Americana and how Americana looks I tend to stick with Americana. I will use spray sealant on the leading edges on the garage queen when driving at times when bugs are heavier.

Here is my setup.  A bucket with one flat side loaded with spray bottles and tools:
 
loaded:

 
unloaded

 
:
 

So that is totally a go!
 
Said he would be happy to build a demo unit for you to test, different size if wanted also, smaller, thinner, whatever. 
 
Should we give you a call or email to get details?
 
Thanks dude!

I thought it was normal to detail shoes too... Clean transportation no matter what it is

Don't you mean Adamized?

I prefer total interior detailer as an all-in-one interior product. I especially prefer it on the dash and door panels as it's quick and effective. If the interior is extremely dirty, which I don't think any of us really allow that to happen, then it's worth busting out the leather and interior cleaner, especially for seats. As far as the nav screen goes, do NOT use total interior detailer or leather and interior cleaner, use glass cleaner!
 
So, here's the short run down:
 
Dusty: total interior detailer
Slightly dirty (small dirt smudges): total interior detailer
Moderately dirty: total interior or leather and interior cleaner
Completely soiled/stained: leather and interior cleaner
 
It really depends on the condition.
 
Also, you can dilute leather and interior cleaner for lighter cleaning, however you'd still have to follow up with a conditioner afterwards. With total interior it cleans and protects (although not as protective as leather and interior conditioner)

Have an itinerary picked out.  Going  to take 5-6 days to do it.  One way in, One way out.  No trail.  Kept getting told knowing how to navigate is a must.  A lot of walking in water.  And easy to get lost.  According to office where permits are obtained.  Should be lots of fun.  Was also told to try and not drink water out of the main river due to nastiness unless absolutely necessary.  Was told to find pools in the rocks and drink from those.  Loop is roughly 35 miles without exploring side canyons.  From the pictures that I have shown my wife that I have found on the internet, she thinks the scenery is more picturesque than that of the previous trips. 
 
Going to do Fools Canyon and Coyote Gulch.  First two pictures are of Fools Canyon that I found on the internet.  The last two are of Coyote Gulch that I also found on the internet.
 
 
 
 

We had done great weather this past weekend here in Wichita. I had the wagon out and snapped a few pictures.

Phil those wheels look sweet!
 
Last weekend DaytonaJae and I did a decon (paint overspray removal) on my friends M Sport in that gray color.   

Adam and I with Dave.....

First I suggest sitting down and spending some time on the Adam's Polishes Youtube channel. Lots of knowledge that can be gained there for a beginner.
 
https://www.youtube.com/user/Adamspolishes/videos
 
Generally most brushes will scratch the paint. I suggest wash pads and the two bucket method with grit guards. The man himself goes over proper wash methods in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pgi-xD7NY-o
 
For drying you might want to look into some microfiber towels for drying. Mist the car with detail spray (acts as a drying agent) and the dry it. Sheet rinsing also helps as well before you dry. See this video:

 
Might want to start claying a bit more often unless the car is a garage queen.
 
 
Remove any old wax/polish residue first. Otherwise you are working backwards.
 
Then I would start with using VRT on all of the trim after claying. It will save you from taping too much.
 
Tape off the vinyl pinstripe, otherwise the polish will take it off.
 
Tape off emblems. VRT on trim will help prevent polish from sticking to it, but still take caution to not get too much in there.
 
You may find the Paint Correcting Polish finishes out well enough that you don't need to go to the Finishing Polish. Check your work and make a judgement call.
 
Give Adam's Liquid Paint Sealant a try. It doesn't stain trim anywhere nearly as bad as NXT and is easier to remove. And you can apply it quickly by machine with a red or grey pad.
 
Wheels and tires should be closer to the top. I handle tire dressing the same time I dress all of the trim. And generally like to have the wheels sealed/completed before I touch the paint. I highly recommend Quick Sealant for wheels and door jambs. Great product for those areas and holds up extremely well. I also have a separate applicator just for wheels
 
Pads... This is a bit of a loaded question. You can probably get away with 2 sets of pads for a whole car, but you will be cleaning them often. I have 4 sets of each pad type for my cyclo and wouldn't mind another set or two.
 
 

Very cool Chris.  That is some fantastic scenery!