Ricky Bobby

Might have to try these. I have one of the old Adam's glass towels, and I'm not a fan. It just sticks to the glass and is really hard to actually wipe with. I used a regular MF towel instead last time, and it just streaked and looked horrible 

The other side of the towel is a low tight nap which is great for the final buff on glass - these are great for the people like me who did not like the prior generation glass towels as they would get damp too quick and get grabby on glass, especially inside windshields

The other side of the towel is a low tight nap which is great for the final buff on glass - these are great for the people like me who did not like the prior generation glass towels as they would get damp too quick and get grabby on glass, especially inside windshields

I've used simple green in my foam cannon to do my siding and after running a tank or two of water after it works just fine.
 
Probably cleans it out nicely of any soap residue I figure!
 
Just don't use bleach in it but you probably knew that.

That picture I'm 99% sure it is a vehicle that is taken through the drive thru car wash often - I see that type of oxidation all the time its just from poor maintenance, similar to the fading and stains seen on BMW piano black trim as well.
 
Paint Correcting Polish will clean it up, same as the Piano Black trim.

After every wash. No water is pure and paint never stays clean.
 
The minute you rinse your car there is dust on it again. The minute you wipe it off more dust. All of that adds up and gets collected into the towel. Not to mention whatever is in your water. Water spots come from impurity in the water and that all gets gunked up into the towel too.
 
Also if you use a drying agent like diluted Rinseless, Waterless Wash or Detail Spray that all gets into the towel as well. I know when I use Rinseless to help dry I don't see it on the towel but if the towel dries before I wash it, it has blue spots on it.
 
Every wash. Microfiber holds everything (because its designed to).

You just rinse them out with a hose - maybe some APC if they are reallly gunked - no machine washing needed

The most underrated aspect of detailing. Nice work!

I go over them every wash just because if I have the wheel bucket out it doesnt take me much more to clean up the tires

I use a T-S brush on my tires every time I scrub. I like the white bristles to see when your brush is clean and the low profile is better for scrubbing than the long bristles on the blue Adam's brush.
 
Even with white foam, APC did not rinse my brush clean.
 
Tire and Rubber Cleaner is much improved and will rinse my brush 95% clean.
 
A large improvement and it being paint and trim safe has me wondering why APC is still in the lineup. IMO it's a bit redundant. Even on well maintained tires it doesn't rinse as clean (your tire brush) and does not hold a candle to the cleaning power of something like MFR diluted 3:1 to clean polishing pads, wax and sealant applicators, etc.
 
Great job on the new formula - there is another APC on the market I use and out of the bottle at $35/gallon it gets the tires clean on the first try and the brush clean when rinsed out. And it is completely safe on interior at full strength but preferred to be diluted 3:1 (you almost never need full strength cleaners on interiors). It is also completely safe and non caustic - as this new TRC formula claims to be.
 
The new TRC has come very close and is a large improvement in my opinion of the now "obsolete" APC
 
My 50cents...

The price is the only thing that will keep me from using T&RC as an APC replacement. I too use MFR on pads and applicators, have for a while. Its funny you mention your brush because I was commenting to myself last night that I don't remember my tire brush being this blue since I bought it. I'm starting to investigate other tire brushes because with the lower profile tires on my Camry, the big blue brush is a bit much. I wish they'd come out with one for smaller tires. Same for w fender brush for close fit fenders. 
 
I'll be curious to test T&RC diluted 1:1 as a maintenance tire cleaner to stretch it out, but I tend to agree that T&RC is now redundant to APC, however, the price point for an APC is very high.

I use a T-S brush on my tires every time I scrub. I like the white bristles to see when your brush is clean and the low profile is better for scrubbing than the long bristles on the blue Adam's brush.
 
Even with white foam, APC did not rinse my brush clean.
 
Tire and Rubber Cleaner is much improved and will rinse my brush 95% clean.
 
A large improvement and it being paint and trim safe has me wondering why APC is still in the lineup. IMO it's a bit redundant. Even on well maintained tires it doesn't rinse as clean (your tire brush) and does not hold a candle to the cleaning power of something like MFR diluted 3:1 to clean polishing pads, wax and sealant applicators, etc.
 
Great job on the new formula - there is another APC on the market I use and out of the bottle at $35/gallon it gets the tires clean on the first try and the brush clean when rinsed out. And it is completely safe on interior at full strength but preferred to be diluted 3:1 (you almost never need full strength cleaners on interiors). It is also completely safe and non caustic - as this new TRC formula claims to be.
 
The new TRC has come very close and is a large improvement in my opinion of the now "obsolete" APC
 
My 50cents...

If its nasty you want to vac first. No reason to blow sand and dirty everywhere.  But for my weekly cleanings I open the door and blow from center of car out the doors. Does a great job and my vehicles have never been cleaner including under the seats.
 
You can vacuum a car with the best vac and then follow up with a blower and you will be amazed the amount of dirt that comes out.  I have always used compressed air to do this but having the Master Blaster now makes it easier to do.

Get the 5 hp 4 gallon Ridgid vac from Home Depot and the orange pro hose. $110 and does all you need and moew

1. Leather and Interior Cleaner is what you want if your interior has any soiling and needs true cleaning. It can then be followed up with Leather Conditioner for protection. Interior Detailer is best for maintenance cleaning, when there are smudges or light dirt that just to be "tidied up". 
 
2. Deep Wheel Cleaner's name was changed to just Wheel Cleaner. The formula has been improved as well. Wheel Cleaner is an awesome product but is not necessary each time you clean your wheels. If you use a sealant on the wheels, simple car shampoo will clean them with ease.
 
3. H20 Guard and Gloss (spray sealant) realistically lasts around 2 months. Some can get slightly longer or slightly less due to a number of conditions. 

Get the 5 hp 4 gallon Ridgid vac from Home Depot and the orange pro hose. $110 and does all you need and moew

The most underrated aspect of detailing. Nice work!

APC or Deep Wheel Cleaner will do the trick, I spray it on the inside of my exhaust tips all the time to clean it out - just make sure the exhaust is cool

I would do a rinseless wash. 

I agree. I have a 2015 camaro and my vinyl stripes were a royal pain the behind. VRT works to keep them looking good for a short while but lot of trouble. so at a big car show last year I peeled them off and havent looked back. I think looks much better without the flat black stripes.

I would probably use the single softs for Rinseless than the doubles. I can do a car or maybe 2 with a gallon of water (I use tap in the wash bucket) and I do GDWM so having huge towels like double soft would hinder from doing more than one car as they soak up so much.
 
They might get a slight blue tinge to them but will come out super clean in the wash. And yes Rinseless should have water softening properties in the bucket if you are adding to traditional wash.
 
I only use distilled for a pre soak dilution of Rinseless

I use 1 oz. per 2 gallons of water, and get plenty of suds.

I would recommend Rinseless after driving in the rain.  You can get a lot of stuff that kicks off the road.

You know how I protect vinyl stripes?  By removing them LOL

Technically your pro detailer is correct.  Coatings don't really need to be topped with a wax or sealant. 
 
Could you top?  Sure you can.  Doing so will alter it's hydrophobic properties with that of the topper.
 
Coatings were made for the exact reason you depicted.  Easier to wash and clean.  It's a good thing that nothing sticks to it.  That is just letting you know that it is doing what it is supposed to do. 
 
Another thing to think about is how quick would a wax or sealant shed off the coating now that you have seen it's properties. 
 
If it were me I would just wash it and just use detail spray as a drying aid.