falcaineer

Maybe you got 12 and they had to shortchange the next guy.

Don't recall it being offered before, but yes, I'd compare it to a Mystery Box/Bucket only it's a case.

Prevailing theory is start with least aggressive first and work your way up. So, FP on white foam pad first. If that doesn't work, try the 1-Step on an orange foam pad, and move up to a microfiber pad if you still aren't happy.

Welcome, Ron! Great to have you here!!

, Mike!

Hope it works out for you. ?

Must've been a big one!

Don't hold the metal-tipped spray nozzle (why so sharp, Adam's...WHHHYYYYY???!!!) from the premium Foam Gun too close when spraying out the wheel wells. Otherwise, you might create a scratch that won't come out despite trying every pad and polish you have in your arsenal...and wanting to utter a few words not suitable for all audiences. ?? ?

Nice work, Shane. Agreed on that CC interior; the two-tone is awesome.

Otherwise known as "VRT milk," this is a good option to try.

+2 on Revive. Then +1 on BG to make the trim pop (if only for a short while).

They are not the same, diluted or not. The common saying is diluting RW 16:1 produces a Waterless Wash-like solution. Yes, getting the gallon of Rinseless will go a lot further at a more economical price point. One thing you'll miss, though, is the WW smell...certainly one of my favorites from Adam's. But you can always mix in straight WW to the cleaning session on occasion just to enjoy the smell!

, Kevin!

Thanks for the reviews, Todd. I was considering a couple of those so nice to read about them. For the brush, you can always add felt or something similar, and then use any leftovers to make the seat's bottle holders a better fit. But good feedback...maybe consider posting some I the Product reviews forum.

Yes, you can. Can't vouch for its performance but I'm sure others can/will chime in. You can also do a quick search on here for feedback.

No harm in trying TRC, maybe not even diluted. And agreed, the BG is a good tip from @ZMAN024. The solvents will settle at the top while in storage, so you can carefully use just that portion if the need arises.

If nothing else on there, try APC. It'll break down what is on there and then you can reapply the HGG using either wer or dry method.

You may not have rinsed it all off and locked in the shampoo suds under the HGG, or used too much HGG in those areas. Have you tried a clean, dry MF by itself? Ok, maybe a little elbow grease, too. If the above doesn't work, do you have anything else on the car besides HGG, like PS, wax, etc? If not, Eco APC and a towel will strip it off, then you can just reapply. But if there's anything else besides coating, I'll take it off, too, so you will need to reapply it all. As for process, when I use HGG, I apply and remove it one panel at a time. If the car starts to dry, just rewet the surface. Since you like to use it indoors, you can use a spray bottle.

Make sure he takes it. He may not know it's his.

Nice work, John. I'm learning the same thing.

It has a light citrus scent. Way better than the original blue, and way, way better than the older pink Deep Wheel Cleaner. That stuff really smells bad.

Strip washed, clayed, polished, sealed and (Buttery) waxed a customer's car. 2015 Infiniti Q70S, Malibu Black. He said it hasn't looked this good since the day he bought it new, and better than when he had it done by a local pro detailer just last fall. Music to my ears! Now his wife wants her Explorer done, inside and out. ? Before After

Jinx!

I only have a small bottle of the Prep. Plus, a bottle of IPA is $2.50, the prep several times the cost. I wasn't aware of lubricants in the Prep, but by using a quality MF towel, that lessens most of my fears. To each his or her own, I guess.