slapshot87

Geebee's body shop is now in business! LOL my wifes car had some pretty bad scratches that we didn't notice when we got the car. To satisfy my Auto Detailing case of OCD, I wen to work. OK, so a small pat on the back from me to me....LOL All the scratches came out thank goodness.
 
Adams Yellow Micro Fiber Pad
Adams Yellow Correcting Pad
Mix 50/50 Adam's Heavy Correcting Polish

I would recommend only using Microfiber Revitalizer & Brightener without any other detergents.  MFR&B is a strong detergent designed specifically for removing waxes, polymers, polishes, and oils commonly associated with detailing.  Regular laundry detergent is not strong enough to remove many of the detailing products from towels, especially the sealants.  Delicate or baby detergents are even weaker than regular detergent, so they are not going to clean out all the detailing products.  While the towels may "look" clean after using regular or delicate detergent, this incomplete cleaning can lead to build-up deep in the fibers of the towel, making them less effective and eventually ruining them.
 
While some might use other detergents to save a little money, if you buy the MFR&B in the gallon, with a sale discount, the amount of product used for one load is less than a buck, not much compared to the cost of these premium towels.
 
While I do not use any vinegar, some people use it for the rinse cycle.  To do this, it would be placed in the fabric softener dispenser.  Putting vinegar directly into the wash load with the detergent would be counter-productive, as the vinegar would work against the detergent.
 
It is also a good idea to run a cleaning cycle on your machine before running your detailing towels, to remove any laundry soap build-up in the machine.  Before washing my Microfiber towels, I run a clean-cycle on the washer with some distilled white vinegar to break down the build-up of detergents and fabric softeners inside the machine, as this build-up is bad for the detailing towels and can also be full of contaminates (like glitter). Since MFR&B is a stronger detergent than regular laundry soap, it will break down the build-up in the washer and mix it into your load of Microfiber towels, unless you clean the washer first. The dryer can also have contaminants from other loads, such as rags, rugs or shoes. A thorough vacuuming of the dryer along with a wipe-down is good practice to prevent the clean Microfiber towels from being contaminated with stuff that can cause damage when used on your paint.  If this seems extreme, take a closer look at what gets collected in the lint screen of the dryer.

I think their own windshield wiper fluid is a GREAT idea - I'll bet almost everyone on here would buy it. 

I seal all of my windows on the outside and the water rolls off.  I've had the same bottle for 2 years now and do 2 cars with it.  And it won't harm your rubber or plastic.  

Yup! All windows all the way around. And also Yes to the side mirror glass.

Thanks for the info, guys - I'm especially glad to hear that I don't have to be overly cautious about the trim.  And based upon your suggestion, Nathan, I picked up some of the Glass Boost as well.  I had already placed an order earlier today for other products (Perfect Glass Cleaning Collection, Perfect Vision Glass Cleaner & Sealant Combo, Total Interior Detailing Kit) and Bianca was nice enough to combine both orders so that I didn't have to pay shipping on the Glass Boost.  (Thank you, Bianca!)
 
Anyway, I'm looking forward to receiving my orders so that I can try everything out.  Thanks again!

For some reason I feel like L&I cleaner never gets the praise it deserves. These before and after pictures I took last week while cleaning up a new to me 1999 Suburban with 221k miles on it. Pretty sure the interior hadn't been touched in years.

The door I scrubbed using the cockpit brush, L&I cleaner, Utility towels, C&U cleaner, and treated with Leather Conditioner.
 

The seat was thoroughly vacuumed, scrubbed using the cockpit brush, L&I cleaner, and Utility towels. Not pictured is after treating that old seat to some Leather Conditioner.

Yes I seal the mirrors, The windshield need it more often, but I keep all my glass sealed.

This might be a silly question, but did you seal your side mirrors as well? For some reason I have an incredibly hard time with water almost sticking to my side mirrors whenever I drive in the rain, and it almost renders them useless as I can barely see anything out of them. Water doesn't seem to want to slide off of them at all whatsoever, also ending in almost constantly having water spots on my side mirror.

Doing just windshields I get up to 30 applications out of one bottle. I only seal the windshield, but if you have kids. Consider doing the interior of the backseat. You always could seal the side windows, but a product called glass boost would be a much better candidate for that.
 
I've never had any problems with getting any on the trim.

I seal all my glass, but feel free to only do the windshield. It isn't a big deal if you get any on the trim, it won't stain. Also, you will get dozens of applications from that bottle, even doing all the windows.

Their own line of windshield washer fluid.

From the video youTube series on my other post

Nobody is saying anything about this.  I guess we are all just shine freaks....
 

Neither are women.  But I still like them! 

We are happy to finally introduce our Ceramic Wheel Coating. It makes cleaning your wheels a breeze. The water and brake dust comes flying right off. Check out the video for an in-depth look at how to apply it and make sure to pay attention to the before and after. Adam's wheels came out amazing. We know everyone will love this product.
 
Adam's Ceramic Wheel Coating Kit
 
Enjoy,
 

We got a new Golden Retriever a week ago, we live near a small creek and a lake, plus it has been raining on and off for the past few days. Golden retrievers don't mind, in fact like, getting wet. However the great white drying towel does a decent job of drying the little (50 lbs) guy off. May have to get a couple more as drying turns int tug of war

Sorry to read this but thanks for taking the time to warn the rest of us about your experience.  I know that I'm pretty new to detailing and, as such, I definitely appreciate any & all info - both positive (things that worked well) and negative (things that didn't).  

First, this sounds annoying as heck and I hope you find a good solution... but it did remind me of this, and I had a small chuckle at your expense.  For which I am sorry.
 
A clip from Tommy Boy.. Bees! Bees Everywhere!
 

I've mentioned in other threads that one of my pet peeves is having dirty glass. I want my glass completely invisible, so while my process may be a bit on the obsessive side, it keeps the glass clean 100% of the time.
 
Starting from a very dirty glass (especially with hard water spots/streaks) I first will use Adam's aerosol glass cleaner and one of their green glass towels with the microfiber side down on the glass. The aerosol is stronger than the regular spray and cuts a lot of the stubborn dirt and grime (with help from the green glass towel). Next, I'll come back with the detail spray (or regular glass cleaner) and clay bar the glass. This gets any "bonded" crap off the glass (tar, sap, extremely stubborn hard water spots, etc.) It also preps the glass for Adam's glass sealant (which I can't recommend enough! It's amazing). Once clay barred, I'll wipe off any excess spray, and proceed to apply the sealant then glass boost. I like to use fresh towels for each step. This ensures I don't get any streaks. Also, the blue glass towel is perfect for removing stubborn streaks left from any product.
 
For the interior of the windshield (and any other interior glass you feel like treating) I highly recommend the Brilliant Glaze trick. First I clean the inside of the glass with the regular glass cleaner (the aerosol tends to splatter too much and I usually don't need the extra strength on the interior glass) I then apply the Brilliant Glaze to the inside of the glass, let it haze, and then remove it. This ensures no haze builds up on the interior of the glass.
 
Boom! You have invisible glass. Upkeep is minimal at this point. A quick wipe-down with the regular glass cleaner and green towel removes most everything if maintained regularly (which for me is when ever there's dirt on the glass) and a freshening of the glass boost when ever the hydrophobic properties of the glass sealant seems to be wearing off.

If it's not a brand new roll, then possibly.  I took a partially used roll out of my kitchen and it fit very snugly (you can see that there's still room to fit MF towels or applicators on top).  The diameter of roll in the picture is approximately 4 inches.
 
 

Welcome!

Welcome!

UPDATED: nice desert photo shoot on sheet 2.
 
Traded my Jeep in for a 2016 Camaro SS with the 2ss package one week ago. Dealer was want to buy our $700 sealant, I showed him a picture of my detailing cart and he said yeah you don't want that hahahaha. Paint is called mosaic black and has gold flakes in it.

So this past Saturday did my first detail on her.
Started by cleaning wheels and tires using wheel cleaner and rubber and tire cleaner. Then foam gunned the car, followed by a 2 bucket washed, then dried.

Did clay bar test with plastic bag to see how it was. I figured it would need to be clayed, but was surprised how bad it really was. Guess it makes sense sitting out in lot and transport. So clayed whole car.

Then applied paint sealant to whole car including glass, wheels. Then followed up with patriot.











Reflection shots

Here's my first atempt at a YouTube video with some some iMovie editing. I am trying to get some use out of the camera equipment I have had lying around. I'd like to get good at it